One router in the living room corner for years, bedroom and kitchen both stuck with weak-signal buffering. Blamed the ISP forever. Set up a 3-node mesh this weekend and every room hits full bars now. Also merged three separate SSIDs into one — roaming between rooms is finally seamless. Wish I'd done this two years ago instead of just living with it.

I would like to power my AP's which are POE through a POE switch. Can I do this through a MOCA network or should use individual injectors at the AP site? Thank you for any feedback.

Hi.

I’ve been using Powerline Adapter for internet upstairs, it’s not amazing but it has done the job. They have given up life and suddenly stopped working.

I thought this might be a good opportunity to change things up. I’m looking to run an Ethernet cable instead. I have a planned route for which I can run the cable. However, I’m looking at having it come outside the house out of an existing hole used for other cabling for a portion of the route.

I assumed I will need an outdoor rated Ethernet cable? I have seen people say they used regular and it has worked okay but I’ve also seen outdoor rated be recommended.

Also, are there any recommended brands to look for? I’ve seen a few on this sub but when I’ve researched them, they don’t seem easily obtainable in the UK.

Any advice is super appreciated, I have been browsing this sub for a bit and trying to read up and educate myself as best I can.

I'm trying to splice together a null modem cable.

I confirmed that Pin 3 on one side was connected to Pin 2 on the other side. I soldered Pin 3 to Pin 2, I soldered Pin 2 to Pin 3, then I spliced and soldered Pin 5 to 5 (ground). I confirmed that Pin 2 on one side was connected to Pin 3 on the other side in continuity mode on my multimeter, I did the same for Pin 3 to 2 and Pin 5 to 5.

I tested the resistance between both sides of the cable on each pin and it registered about 3 ohms. I tried to put a jumper between Pin 2 and 3 and I ran a loopback test and the cable does not work.

This was the loopback test.

stty -F /dev/ttyS5 9600 raw -echo; (cat -v /dev/ttyS5 &); sleep 2; printf 'AAAA\r' > /dev/ttyS5; sleep 3; pkill cat

This timed out with no echo.

I shorted pins 2 and 3 on the DB9 connector of the PCIE card while running the echo test and I got an echo. So I know the serial port is ok and the cable seems to be electrically fine but it will not pass a loopback test.

I would really appreciate any help.

The PCIE card I'm using has an ASIX AX99100 chip.

We are moving into a new build 1680 sq. ft apartment (plus some patio space) that is two stories and I am trying to figure out the best wire runs and AP setup. This was not a custom build and the builder did not run CAT6 cables to the rooms unfortunately, but as part of closing they seem fairly amenable to getting someone in to do the cable runs as long as we can tell them where to go.

For AP

I used design.ui.com/ to mock things out, and my take away is that we need to have an access point on the second floor. In the attached images I have only included a UDR7 which we already own but adding something like an AC Lite anywhere upstairs seems to give good coverage everywhere. Any advice on anything I'm missing here or confirmation this looks good would be much appreciated.

For Wired

For wired connections the most important is getting a wire run upstairs to get an AP on the top floor as indicated above. Ideally we would have one in each of the downstairs bedrooms as well since either might be a home office at one point and then potentially one in the living room to wire a TV? I was thinking something like the following, which may need to be adjusted depending on feasibility of doing cable runs. Any feedback on these wired locations would be much appreciated, since this is the part that seems most uncertainty in terms of choosing best locations for uncertainty future use.

The same LAN Wire I used for my ps4 now doesnt work for my ps5. My ps5 recognises it, but it doesnt form the connection. I already swapped it with another wire but it doesnt work.

Hello all, I am looking for home firewall (hardware one), I need 10Gbps througput as I am now on 1.2Gbps internet soon to 2.5 and possibly higher later. I also dont want to pay monthly/yearly fee.
Wifi is not required. My routers will take care of that.

I found Firewalla Gold Pro, when the price is rather ok, the shipping and VAT + Customs is killing it (adding more than 35% of product price). Also the trustpilot reviews are horrible, mainly for product support...

Whats your solution, or any other advice?

Hi everyone,

I recently moved into the late 80s home and plan to set up a MoCA network to take advantage of the extensive coax wiring throughout the house. Before I get started, I have a few questions I'd like to get answered. Here's my setup:

• Problem: I have a twostory home with a basement. The main coax splitter is located in the basement (see picture), with coax outlets in the basement and on both the first and second floors. Currently, my Xfinity gateway is in the basement because I have a gaming PC (PC1) that I want connected via Ethernet rather than Wi-Fi. While this solves the latency issue for gaming, the Wi-Fi coverage throughout the rest of the house is poor. Additionally, I'll soon be setting up a work computer (PC2) that must also be connected via Ethernet (for security reasons), and it will be located in my first-floor office.
• Plan: I plan to move the Xfinity gateway to the coax outlet in the first-floor office so I can directly connect PC2 via Ethernet and improve Wi-Fi coverage for the rest of the home. Then, I plan to use MoCA over the basement coax outlet so I can connect PC1 via Ethernet as well.

Questions:

1. My understanding is that I only need one MoCA filter, installed on the incoming ISP coax line before the first splitter. Is that correct?
2. Do I need to connect the MoCA adapter directly to the Xfinity gateway, or can I use a coax splitter to feed both the gateway and the MoCA adapter in the basement PC1? I've seen mixed answers online, and this is my biggest point of confusion (see plan made by CHATGPT)
3. Does every splitter in the house need to be MoCa ready or just the first one?
4. Bonus: Is there a way to use a coax outlet on the opposite side of the house to connect another MoCA adapter and plug in a mesh Wi-Fi node to improve wireless coverage even further? If so, would this have any impact on the wired network performance? What setup would you recommend?

Thanks!

Looking at updating network currently have 2 gig isp just upgrade this month. Looking at simple and quick. Currently have Deco x75 1gig. Would barebones opnsense to 2.5gb switch with deco in AP mode(don't need wifi at 2gig yet). Or going omada router/firewall to omada 2.5 gb control swith to omada AP. Would like to go vlan but deco doesn't support that, not a need but would like it. Future goal some 10gig local networking but want to wait until I upgrade my home server.

Any advice or recommendations; opnsense with deco vs omada setup, or opnsense with omada.

Opnsense just need 2 or 4 port nic and 4 port switch. Omada will need to purchase everything. The third option opnsense then omada switch and AP.

Thanks

I'm looking for advices regarding using a router with a SIM card plan that has specific terms of use :

I would like to use a SIM with an unlimited 5G plan to replace my WiFi network. However, the terms of use say that the plan only allows "mobile use" and the network can be limited if they notice a behavior that can disturb the network. It doesn't explicitly bans router use

So I'm thinking of two options :

• the first one would be using a portable router, which is by definition a mobile device. However I am not sure about how the how it would get interpreted by the internet provider

-The second one would be to use a throwaway phone that is always on and shares the network to a router. This is much safer guidelines-wise, but I'm not sure how reliable and feasible this is

So I'd be happy to know what you think is the best option and if you have any other suggestions. Thanks for reading

I've been battling some wonky issues in my wired LAN after upgrading to 2.5gbps. I used TP-Link TL-SG105S-M2 as my two main switches and cat 6 everywhere.

After much troubleshooting and swapping of cables and devices, I finally figured out that an old Brother printer and HDHomeRun are only 10/100 devices. When I disconnect those, everything is hunky dory.

What can I do here? I thought these switches should be able to handle devices of different connection speeds.

I receive my internet from a ethernet connection from my ONT (Verizon) I plan to use the existing wiring in my home as a ethernet network. Do I need a moca filter? My coaxial connection is behind the router?

For context, I live in a relatively small home (985 square feet), but each room is separated (no open floor concepts). Because of that, there can be some WiFi interference. I just recently switched to fiber internet for my house, and since switching, the wifi coverage to the rest of the home has declined. My prior internet had a wifi extender (provided by my ISP) plugged into the living room which worked quite well. Now I need to find an alternative.

For further context, Im a huge gamer. My current setup is in my small home office on one side of the house. The internet there now is incredible since switching to fiber, for both gaming and streaming/content creation. However, I have multiple smart TVs, Alexas, laptops, etc. that need good connection as well, and the range has definitely declined since switching to fiber.

I guess my biggest question is; What should I use to extend the WiFi connection? Mesh or WAP? For what price range given the smaller nature of my house and really needing only one rather than a whole system?

My network box is in my living room, with an ethernet cable running through the ceiling to my office router. I also have a TV running a Shield Pro in the living room that I currently use with a wireless connection, but we have issues with buffering and stuttering and I want to wire it.

Can I run the ethernet cable from the box in the living room or would I need to connect it to the router in the office for it to be on the same network?

Heyo, using a standard cable tester for my CAT6 wires, but the master skips NR.7 while the remote shows NR.7 as always on.

Does anyone have any possible answers?

Since this sub gets questions about this a LOT, just dropping this here, if this violates rules you can delete it.

Wifi is broadcasted in radio frequencies, the ones that move slower go through objects better, these frequencies are the most common.

2.4 GHz travels the farthest, has the most penetration but is only between 100-300 Mbps (bits NOT Bytes)

5GHz faster with less congestion but is prone to interference and struggles to go through walls an doors has faster speeds, often up to 1 Gbps but only works well in the same room as the router

6Ghz barely penetrates walls, and is only really useful when you are in the same room with NO obstructions

Things to consider

Repeaters - These will broadcast an additional SSID (Wifi name) once these are set up, I like to mark it as _EXT. you will want to place it closer to the router and have it connect at 5Ghz then broadcast at 2.4. This are mostly setup via an ethernet cable, and once they are configured you just have to plug it into a wall outlet and it connects.

Better antennas - This helps with penetration, buy a better model and use it as an Access Point, most of the time you can just connect this directly to your router.

Heat Maps - These are what is used to map out wifi coverage in a given area you can download various options for this to test out your wifi

Multiple access points - You can buy 2 or more access points and place them on opposite sides of your house for full coverage, some devices allow you to join them together to create a mesh. You can use an old router in "AP" mode which most of the time means disabling DHCP, assigning a static IP on the same subnet and giving it the same network name and password.

Feel Free to add in the comments

Hello,

I have a TP-Link EAP110-Outdoor (EU) V3.0 with firmware 5.0.1.

I am looking for the official firmware file: EAP110-Outdoor(EU)_V3_5.1.3 Build 20250709 (or 5.0.7 Build 20230410).

The support website only shows the Release Notes, but there is no firmware download file.

Could you please send me the official BIN firmware file or a direct download link?

Thank you very much.

I found them among some old stuff I'm sorting. They were in a box full of ethernet and telephone cables, some old ADSL splitters, a big bag of terminations and a cable tester, so I assume they're somehow related to networking. They are all identically shaped but have different numbers printed on them. The numbers aren't a continuous set and have some duplicates. They're the only thing in the box I am drawing a complete blank on. Siri thinks they're guitar picks.

I currently have cat 6 non rated outdoor cable ran in conduit currently from the main house to the detached garage. It’s been sitting there for about 3yrs just terminated to the inside of each building.

I’m now looking to get things running and I want to just do it right with fiber. I’m trying to figure out what kind of fiber optic I need? And what type of converters I’ll need? It’s about a 100 ft run from building to building.

I just ordered a TP-Link EAP613 Wireless Access Point as well as a network switch model # tp link TLSG108Pe. The home house has a g3000 router from Verizon I’ll be connecting the fiber optic too.

My plan out in the garage is to run the fiber to the switch I ordered - and then do home runs using indoor rated cat 6 cables to my desktop computer , my tv as well as the access point.

Am I on the right track so far? Any help is appreciated or if people think the fiber is over kill for right now would I benefit keeping what I have currently ran in cat 6 and add Ethernet surge protectors that get grounded?

Due to take delivery on a new Tesla soon.

Any thoughts on security & network noise when connected to Wifi?

Which for the usual VLANs do we think it belongs to:
Main/Home, IoT or Guest?

Edit: I have IoT blocked to Main, Main allowed to IoT (and return traffic)

No idea if any need for direct comms on the network, or it’s all just via Tesla’s servers.

Hi,

I have been given a work laptop which has zcc client installed as my company uses Zscaler to secure the traffic. However, when I try to use internet from my work laptop its extremely slow and sometimes things die out without any connection. ZCC says both my ZIA and ZPA services are connected. But when I use my personal laptop to access the web, it works like a charm.

Both machines connect to the same SSID and part of the same vlan, following the same firewall rules on my Mikrotik hAP be3 media. Does anyone know what could be the issue here when traffic is through zcc connector??

I have raised a zscaler support ticket but i highly doubt it will give any fruits 😃

So this area under the staircase (what I would call the Harry Potter nook) is roughly 3 feet by 3 feet, and the height to the concrete base of the staircase above it is about 4 and half feet. Planning to put my networking equipment here - ISP modem, router, and switch at the very least. Eventually may add compute and/or storage. Also planning for ceiling-mounted APs to handle wifi. Cat6 from everywhere in the house should terminate here.

Changing plans because my previous location (laundry/dryer room) has higher humidity/flooding concerns, based on other advise I've gotten on this sub.

Questions:-
1. Would heat/humidity be an issue? I'm in a hot and humid climate (about 80% humidity year round and 30 degrees Celsius daytime temperatures) - but this location is right in the center of the house and not really exposed to the outdoors in any way (for good or bad).
2. Is the size (9 square feet of floor space with four and a half feet of height) at all a concern? Seems bigger than most of what I've seen here, and I don't plan to put anything else in this space.