so I got some of these ax3000 and I'm now having issues remote streaming over WiFi any advice? got this WiFi speed results i got 1 GB plan for fiber for reference WiFi I understand you lose some so lmk

I organise a live stream for my local sports team and in a attempt to improve longevity of the ethernet cable used to transfer video/audio from our camera (a 2k PTZ CCTV camera with PoE) to a streaming PC, I need to make a length (30-40m) of ethernet cable retractable on a cable reel. I'm going to do something a little homebrew (to save funds).

What are your thoughts on the following options?

Plan A: Use a slip ring within the cable reel - has anyone had any experience/success using one of these for ethernet or is it only good for transferring power?

8 Wires Slip Ring

https://amzn.eu/d/01nxrFzE

Plan B:

Panel mount RJ-45 adapter. I just have to hope that the assembler disconnects before reeling it in.

Plan C:

Are there any ethernet specific slip rings on the market that are affordable?

I like to game a lot,but i have a problem,whenever im downloading a big game i have to wait 12 hours for it to download since my internet speed is 10mbps.

My room is at the bottom of a stairwell,the rest of the house is quite large and the router is very far away from my room.I use an internet extender but my download speed is still bad,i would really aprecciate help finding the cheapest solution to make my internet faster.

If you know anything please help.

Due to take delivery on a new Tesla soon.

Any thoughts on security & network noise when connected to Wifi?

Which for the usual VLANs do we think it belongs to:
Main/Home, IoT or Guest?

Edit: I have IoT blocked to Main, Main allowed to IoT (and return traffic)

No idea if any need for direct comms on the network, or it’s all just via Tesla’s servers.

I found them among some old stuff I'm sorting. They were in a box full of ethernet and telephone cables, some old ADSL splitters, a big bag of terminations and a cable tester, so I assume they're somehow related to networking. They are all identically shaped but have different numbers printed on them. The numbers aren't a continuous set and have some duplicates. They're the only thing in the box I am drawing a complete blank on. Siri thinks they're guitar picks.

Hi. I am trying to get a Wi-Fi signal to my apartment garage that is underneath my apartment on the ground level (smaller garage; under 25 units). The garage has no power outlets/power I can use. I do have a Wi-Fi signal in my apartment which is about 3-4 stories above ground. I have tried different devices including a TP-Link CPE210 to try to get the signal to reach inside the garage. However, unfortunately, it will only reach right outside the garage backdoor but it won't reach inside the garage. I am not able to run an ethernet cable to the garage.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice or insight from anyone who has run into this with AT&T Fiber or has experience with AT&T's ONTs/OLTs.

The Setup:

• ISP: AT&T Fiber (1Gbps / 1Gbps)
• Gateway: BGW320 replaced with (two) BGW620
• Devices Tested: Custom PC (Ethernet), iPhone (Wi-Fi 6)

The Problem: Downloads are completely fine and sustaining ~980–1,050 Mbps with a flat 30–35 ms ping.

However, whenever upload load is introduced (testing via Cloudflare Speed Test, Twitch ingest, or large file pushes), latency immediately collapses.

• Wired Ethernet: Upload latency spikes to 900 ms – 1,700 ms, and upload throughput dips/fluctuates between 130 Mbps and 500 Mbps.
• Wi-Fi: Upload latency spikes to 1,900+ ms.

What Has Been Done So Far:

1. Tech came out and verified optical light levels at the drop and confirmed clean.
2. Replaced the AT&T Gateway 3 times.
3. Tested with multiple Cat6 Ethernet cables and directly connected to the BGW gateway ports.

Because this happens across multiple devices, wired and Wi-Fi, and across 3 different physical gateways, it feels like the upload queue in the BGW's IP Passthrough NAT stack is choking, or there's an OLT port profile/queue scheduler issue at the central office/PFP.

My Questions:

1. Has anyone successfully gotten Tier 2 / NOC to re-provision or move their port at the PFP for this specific upload queue behavior?
2. Is this simply an inherent flaw in how the BGW handles IP Passthrough buffers, and is a full True Bypass (EAP Proxy / WAS-110 SFP bypass) the only real solution?
3. Any specific phrasing I should use with AT&T support to get this escalated past standard gateway reboots?

Appreciate any guidance!

Since this sub gets questions about this a LOT, just dropping this here, if this violates rules you can delete it.

Wifi is broadcasted in radio frequencies, the ones that move slower go through objects better, these frequencies are the most common.

2.4 GHz travels the farthest, has the most penetration but is only between 100-300 Mbps (bits NOT Bytes)

5GHz faster with less congestion but is prone to interference and struggles to go through walls an doors has faster speeds, often up to 1 Gbps but only works well in the same room as the router

6Ghz barely penetrates walls, and is only really useful when you are in the same room with NO obstructions

Things to consider

Repeaters - These will broadcast an additional SSID (Wifi name) once these are set up, I like to mark it as _EXT. you will want to place it closer to the router and have it connect at 5Ghz then broadcast at 2.4. This are mostly setup via an ethernet cable, and once they are configured you just have to plug it into a wall outlet and it connects.

Better antennas - This helps with penetration, buy a better model and use it as an Access Point, most of the time you can just connect this directly to your router.

Heat Maps - These are what is used to map out wifi coverage in a given area you can download various options for this to test out your wifi

Multiple access points - You can buy 2 or more access points and place them on opposite sides of your house for full coverage, some devices allow you to join them together to create a mesh. You can use an old router in "AP" mode which most of the time means disabling DHCP, assigning a static IP on the same subnet and giving it the same network name and password.

Feel Free to add in the comments

'm looking for stability and range. The house combo of reinforced concrete and hollow clay bricks around 400 m² across 3 floors. My ASUS RT-AX88U died after 3 years, but the connection was quite good. Any recommendations without mesh system.

Hey all! So a bit of a situation I’d love some thoughts on. I work remotely often from home, and am on 1gb up and down with Ziply Fiber in the Seattle area and it’s great. We’ve looked at houses and got offered a lease in the Lake Steven’s area, however it happens to be one neighborhood without fiber. I’ve chosen where to live specifically based on fiber being there or not, but the house is nice enough that I’ve looked at what existing options are:

It’s Xfinity, which I dislike, but there is a Comcast Business option over the same hybrid coaxial setup, which it looks like would help us with congestion issues if any come up. And the offered plan they had for us was 2Gb download and 300mb upload since it’s their “next gen” setup.

I’m so used to fiber at this point that I’m nervous about latency spikes during congestion, and it seems like the reps can’t give me any answer on how bad latency spikes will be on that network until I get an account setup.

There is another house we’re in talks with and they have ziply fiber with 10gb upload and download, but it’s not a guarantee we’ll get that place and we basically need to sign the lease of this non fiber place by Thursday or pull out and wait for an option that may not happen.

Does the business Comcast option fill our needs in a way that I shouldn’t worry about it not being fiber?

Hello!

So im looking to host a Minecraft modded server, a zomboid server and eventually a plex host and other cloud services. I currently have a space pc for this reason already, on windows 11 (which is not fun but im lazy and dont want to switch yet)

The problem is, I use COX and now they switched their port forwarding to their mobile app, and my pc does not register on it as connected, even though it is wired in.

I got a zomboid server to work but I have no idea what worked, I setup a game.gg to get it started and that dident work, but all of a sudden the normal routing worked.

Just need a guide in the right direction, or a good place to learn more about this stuff while not scrolling through pages of reddit.

Do I need to purchase a new router? Or is there something on my backend of the PC server that needs to be fixed?

Thanks in advance!

First, I hope this is the right place to post about router and mesh-networking experiences.

About two weeks ago, the Wi-Fi portion of my old TP-Link AX11000 apparently burned out. The wireless radios would turn on, work for about 30 seconds, and then shut off again. Since I needed a replacement quickly, I did some searching and saw a lot of people recommending ASUS routers.

I went to Best Buy and bought the best ASUS model they had in stock, the GS-BE18000.

For context, my house is about 2,100 square feet. The main router is in a fairly open room with plenty of airflow and no cabinet or furniture blocking it. The kitchen and living room are farther away and separated from the router by a wall. It is not an enormous house or an especially complicated layout, although the kitchen and living room are near the edge of the router’s coverage area.

The initial ASUS setup was easy, and I liked the interface. I also bought an ASUS RP-BE58 BE3600 range extender to use as an AiMesh node in the kitchen. According to the ASUS setup screen, the node was within range of the main router, although it was close to the edge of what ASUS considered a “good” signal.

At first, everything seemed seamless, and I was happy with the purchase.

After about a week of actual use, though, the mesh system became extremely frustrating. Our phones would latch onto either the main router or the mesh node and refuse to switch properly as we moved around the house. Sometimes a phone would remain connected to the more distant device even when standing much closer to the other one. I never had this problem with my previous TP-Link setup.

I tried disabling the 6 GHz band, adjusting the roaming settings, and troubleshooting the AiMesh connection, but nothing really fixed it. The network was still usable for a while, but then the signal quality suddenly declined and never recovered. My living-room TV could no longer maintain a reliable connection, and the kitchen mesh node started regularly losing its connection to the main router.

I am not sure what caused the sudden decline, but my ultimate conclusion was that the GS-BE18000 had noticeably less usable range in my house than my old TP-Link AX11000.

I returned the ASUS router and mesh node to Best Buy and bought a considerably cheaper TP-Link BE12000 with external antennas. Since switching back to TP-Link, I once again have reliable Wi-Fi throughout the house.

The TP-Link mesh-node setup was definitely more annoying than AiMesh, and I dislike the security-related pop-ups and upselling that appear when accessing the router interface. ASUS had the cleaner interface and easier initial setup. However, the TP-Link system has provided much better range and has been more reliable in everyday use.

Has anyone else experienced weaker range or roaming problems with the GS-BE18000 and AiMesh? I am curious whether I received a defective router, had an unusual compatibility problem, or whether the ASUS simply performs worse in certain house layouts.

not asking for recommendations, just curious about people's reasoning. like why'd you go mesh instead of a single strong router + wired backhaul? why'd you pick the switch you have? did you actually calculate whether you needed 2.5g/10g or did you just buy for future-proofing?

also curious about the stuff that's more opinion than spec sheet, VLANs for a home network, overkill or worth it? separate IoT network, do you actually maintain it or did it become "set it up once and never touch again"? pfSense/OPNsense vs just using whatever the ISP gave you?

feel like everyone's setup says something about how paranoid/lazy/perfectionist they are about their network and I want to hear the reasoning, not just the gear list

I’ll try to keep this brief.
If this isn’t the best place for the post, I’m open to suggestions.
My dad left his desktop, it was 5 or so years ago. My kids are now old enough that I want to fire it up and let them use it.
I ran a new Ethernet cable to it. It says I have internet. It says I’m sending and receiving packets. But I can’t get on the internet and I can’t get any program that uses the internet to connect either.
It’s been a long time since I messed with a PC. I’m so out of practice. I’ve done what I know to do but nothing.
I would take any advice someone is willing to give me. But also any resources. What websites might have some good trouble shooting. Or companies I could call to get some tech support.
Thanks

One router in the living room corner for years, bedroom and kitchen both stuck with weak-signal buffering. Blamed the ISP forever. Set up a 3-node mesh this weekend and every room hits full bars now. Also merged three separate SSIDs into one — roaming between rooms is finally seamless. Wish I'd done this two years ago instead of just living with it.

I currently have cat 6 non rated outdoor cable ran in conduit currently from the main house to the detached garage. It’s been sitting there for about 3yrs just terminated to the inside of each building.

I’m now looking to get things running and I want to just do it right with fiber. I’m trying to figure out what kind of fiber optic I need? And what type of converters I’ll need? It’s about a 100 ft run from building to building.

I just ordered a TP-Link EAP613 Wireless Access Point as well as a network switch model # tp link TLSG108Pe. The home house has a g3000 router from Verizon I’ll be connecting the fiber optic too.

My plan out in the garage is to run the fiber to the switch I ordered - and then do home runs using indoor rated cat 6 cables to my desktop computer , my tv as well as the access point.

Am I on the right track so far? Any help is appreciated or if people think the fiber is over kill for right now would I benefit keeping what I have currently ran in cat 6 and add Ethernet surge protectors that get grounded?

I just upgraded my internet to a way faster line.

Connected are pictures of the Wi-Fi speed tests before and after on

1. My phone next to the router

2. My moms laptop all the way across the house from the router

3.My computer in between the two distance wise

All devices except for my computer seem have a significant increase in speed but my computer seems to always be stuck around the same. I don't understand why this is happening I even got a new Wi-Fi card in an attempt to fix it and nothing. Does anyone have any advice?

The only odd behavior I've noticed is when I do a Wi-Fi speed test it seems to spike up very hight at the start and then shoot down instantly on my computer.

Looking at updating network currently have 2 gig isp just upgrade this month. Looking at simple and quick. Currently have Deco x75 1gig. Would barebones opnsense to 2.5gb switch with deco in AP mode(don't need wifi at 2gig yet). Or going omada router/firewall to omada 2.5 gb control swith to omada AP. Would like to go vlan but deco doesn't support that, not a need but would like it. Future goal some 10gig local networking but want to wait until I upgrade my home server.

Any advice or recommendations; opnsense with deco vs omada setup, or opnsense with omada.

Opnsense just need 2 or 4 port nic and 4 port switch. Omada will need to purchase everything. The third option opnsense then omada switch and AP.

Thanks

I'm trying to splice together a null modem cable.

I confirmed that Pin 3 on one side was connected to Pin 2 on the other side. I soldered Pin 3 to Pin 2, I soldered Pin 2 to Pin 3, then I spliced and soldered Pin 5 to 5 (ground). I confirmed that Pin 2 on one side was connected to Pin 3 on the other side in continuity mode on my multimeter, I did the same for Pin 3 to 2 and Pin 5 to 5.

I tested the resistance between both sides of the cable on each pin and it registered about 3 ohms. I tried to put a jumper between Pin 2 and 3 and I ran a loopback test and the cable does not work.

This was the loopback test.

stty -F /dev/ttyS5 9600 raw -echo; (cat -v /dev/ttyS5 &); sleep 2; printf 'AAAA\r' > /dev/ttyS5; sleep 3; pkill cat

This timed out with no echo.

I shorted pins 2 and 3 on the DB9 connector of the PCIE card while running the echo test and I got an echo. So I know the serial port is ok and the cable seems to be electrically fine but it will not pass a loopback test.

I would really appreciate any help.

The PCIE card I'm using has an ASIX AX99100 chip.

I'm looking for advices regarding using a router with a SIM card plan that has specific terms of use :

I would like to use a SIM with an unlimited 5G plan to replace my WiFi network. However, the terms of use say that the plan only allows "mobile use" and the network can be limited if they notice a behavior that can disturb the network. It doesn't explicitly bans router use

So I'm thinking of two options :

• the first one would be using a portable router, which is by definition a mobile device. However I am not sure about how the how it would get interpreted by the internet provider

-The second one would be to use a throwaway phone that is always on and shares the network to a router. This is much safer guidelines-wise, but I'm not sure how reliable and feasible this is

So I'd be happy to know what you think is the best option and if you have any other suggestions. Thanks for reading

I've been battling some wonky issues in my wired LAN after upgrading to 2.5gbps. I used TP-Link TL-SG105S-M2 as my two main switches and cat 6 everywhere.

After much troubleshooting and swapping of cables and devices, I finally figured out that an old Brother printer and HDHomeRun are only 10/100 devices. When I disconnect those, everything is hunky dory.

What can I do here? I thought these switches should be able to handle devices of different connection speeds.

Hello everyone! We've just purchased a new home, built in 1969. We didn't really understand the difficulty of fishing ethernet cable in an older house and had an electrician in today who took a look around and shared that it would likely take two guys one full day of work just to fish cable from the bulkhead in the basement to the wall of my new home office space.

We had plans to fish ethernet into each room for various things (Apple TV, two offices, cameras, etc) and with the visit today, I am wondering if that is even remotely a possible idea.

The home is a bungalow (about 1000 square feet on the main level) and the basement is fully finished. The joists run north to south and the internet connection lives in the north east corner of the house.

The electrician thought sending the wire through the attic would be a possibility, but quoted more than $15k to run four drops. Is that an "attics suck and I don't want to to this job" quote (Canadian - in Alberta) or a reasonable quote?

And then the big question for you all - are there any unique or creative options we aren't thinking about that would allow us to have ethernet speeds/stability/ping/etc without fishing that wire through a house that doesn't really want the wire fished?

I am reasonably technical once I get to the computer/router/switch level, but give me a hammer and a cable and I am back to fully lost. Have any of you upgraded an older home and had luck with anything unique? The previous owners actually just cut a hole through the house wall and ran ethernet to the basement on the exterior of the house (no conduit or anything haha - just Cat6 rawdogging the Calgary winter) but I'm not sure that's really the... best option.

Unfortunately, looking at MoCa - there are no cable tv jacks in any of the spaces we'd like to run ethernet to, and we have fairly limited outlets in all the office/bedroom spaces for powerline adaptors. We get 1gbps down and about 200mbps upload right now and we'd like to keep those speeds (and good ping for my partner's gaming) as closely as possible.

Thank you!