just replacing a bunch of things on my 14 cruze 215,000km (oil cooler, oil lines, exhaust work, coolant hoses and reservoir, etc) guess it’s throwing the alternator code now too but I haven’t experienced any signs of it going. it stays between 12-15V when the car is running with the AC and headlights on which I assume is ok. how will I know if it goes? should I change it preventatively?

it’s also throwing cat and cyl 1 misfire occasionally. how high of priority are these to get fixed? I have a second car I just prefer to rip the cruze in the summer because it’s cheaper on gas.

open to any advice but I won’t be doing the work myself - I have a guy and I’m just a girl

I have a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500. A few weeks ago I started it up and got a Check Engine Light, Reduced Engine Power, Service StabiliTrak, and Traction Control message.

I scanned it with my code reader, and it said the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor was bad. I replaced the entire accelerator pedal assembly.

Since replacing it, the truck has done the exact same thing twice in the past week. I can plug my scanner in, clear the code, and everything goes back to normal. Then a few days later it'll randomly happen again.

It doesn't seem tied to rain, bumps, or any specific driving condition. It's pretty sporadic.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Could it be a bad replacement pedal, a wiring issue, the throttle body, or something else? What would you check next?

Spent years fighting rusted lug nuts with a breaker bar and a bad attitude before I finally picked up a Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" impact wrench. Wish I'd done it a decade sooner.

The flagship model is rated up to 1,200 ft-lbs fastening / 1,600 ft-lbs nut-busting torque (with the newer high-output battery — a standard pack gets you a little less, still plenty). Rusted lugs crack loose without you throwing your shoulder into it, and the 4-mode drive control means you're not launching fasteners across the shop on the low setting.

Only real catch: it's heavy, it's not cheap, and it will happily snap a bolt you meant to save if you're not paying attention to the trigger. If you already run M18 tools, get the bare tool and skip paying for a battery/charger kit you don't need.

If you turn wrenches for a living, or you're the guy friends call when their brakes are due, this is a buy-once tool. Full write-up (specs, the honest catch, who should skip it) here: https://jax7191-rgb.github.io/marcus-reviews/milwaukee-m18-impact-wrench.html

(Amazon Associate disclosure: that link goes to my review site, which has an affiliate link to the product — I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you buy through it.)

I have a leak in the power steering rack boot, does the entire power steering rack needs to be replaced?

I need serious advice. I got this vehicle from a buy here pay here, they said they didn’t have a chance to inspect AFTER I already started the paperwork. I’m already having major problems, I am trying to find out what I need to do step by step to fix this vehicle myself without having to replace the Cvt transmission, unless that would be the best option.

I am experiencing loss of power, shuddering, jerking, and not going into gear. Rpms are also jumping up and down.

As of now my husband has done a full drain and change of transmission fluid because the dealership overfilled it and the fluid was burnt with shaving or something in it.

These are the codes my vehicle is throwing :

P0171
Power Train
System

Fuel System Lean - B1
Code P0171 indicates that the Bank 1 System is too lean for a predetermined period of time.

P0171

P0174

P0300

P0841

Fuel System Lean - B1
Fuel System Lean - B2

Multiple Misfires Failure

Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit

Secondary DTCS

P0171
P0174
P0171
P0174
Fuel System Lean - B1
Fuel System Lean - B2
Fuel System Lean - B1
Fuel System Lean - B2

ABS
C1199
Brake Booster

​

2009 CRV 250,000 KM. Was getting about 8.5L / 100km on highway. Now about 10.5L/ 100km

Then check engine

Was getting P133 code and 141. Replaced o2 sensors and cat ( as it was too rusted to fix)

Used cheapest cat and o2 sensors. Fuel mileage was great again for a few days. Then P420 code - poor cat efficiency. Poor fuel.mileage. auto shop says its cheap cat

Replaced with a high-end walker cat. Fuel mileage a little better 10L / 100km on highway

I kept cheap o2 sensors and at some point in journey, I Replaced plugs with cheap Amazon plugs

mechanic watched live data. Doenstream o2 sensor heater current issue at 0.68 - acceptable range is 0.8 to 1.20

BUT NO CODES.

Can cheap o2 sendors AND /OR cheap plugs affect my fuel mileage without throwing up codes?

Could the cheap cat have damaged my cheap sensors?

Thanks alot

I almost jumped all over this deal on 30lb cans of R134A but it seems too good to be true. These are selling at +/-$300 from major retailers. Anybody bought from Perinhub.shop before?

That’s my new hobby and now 2 weeks later I’m running out of space😅😂 I might start a ball

Left sliding door stuck closed . Tried the fuel cap safety button thing , tried battery disconnect checked child lock , pried open the panel everything moved

On cold start ,the lower air flap opens/closes 3 times then beeps and settles closed .

When I turn the engine off it reopens on its own and stay in open position.

Please advise if this is normally working or a sign of a fault ..no symbols on dashboard..thanks for your time

2025 Kia Niro EX

Hello all, I'm looking for advice on my 2012 prius. I'll try to give as much info as I can. Recently I was driving and I noticed the temperature icon was on the dash. Not long after that the vehicle lost power, and the dashboard lit up and showed check the hybrid system, stop vehicle in a safe place. I drove until I got to a place that was out of the way. I put it in park, and shut it off. I turned it on, and when I tried to shift into drive it would only go onto neutral.

I opened the hood and the overflow was completely dry. The inverter coolant tank was still full of fluid. I did some googling and turned the car to the in position to watch for swirling in the inverter tank and saw none. Google said it's most likely the electric water pump has gone out. I had it towed to my dad's house since it was close.

I came back the next day and tried to start it again (thought maybe it was just too hot the day before) and the same thing. I have one of the Bluetooth obdII scanners and scanned the system. I'll attach screen shots of the trouble codes.

Is this even worth trying to fix? Is the hybrid code related to the overheating? Everything I've read seems to point that it probably is, but I'm not sure. Is there anything else I need to check, or something perhaps I'm missing?

I've found a few YouTube videos on replacing the electric water pump, and while it doesn't seem that hard, I'm not sure if will solve the not starting issue afterwards. Should I clear the codes after replacing the pump? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to give as much info as possible.

I have been having this knock sensor issue with my 2020 Kia optima for months now.. Check engine light constantly blinking, car will not exceed past 2000 RPM but drives perfectly normal when under 2000rpm. I was told there was a class action or warranty? For this kia fault but my car vin doesn’t list under the recall.. anybody deal with any similar situation or any advice?? I was told I needed to pay $500 btc test to determine if anything is wrong with engine for replacement??

Please provide any feedback if possible, I just need to know the best move to make.

Location: Boston

Took my 2023 Honda CRV (62,000 miles) in to the dealership for a check engine light. Mechanic originally said the problem was spark plugs and quoted $350

They sent the text below today, quoting 7k+

“As your technician got everything broke down to replace the spark plugs, he was inspecting the cylinders with his borescope camera before install, and he found coolant leaking and pooling in cylinder #1. What this means is the vehicle needs a new cylinder head and head gasket kit for the engine. The parts could take several days to receive, and repair would take several days. Parts & labor for the engine repair, along with diagnostics and spark plug replacement: the total would come to $6,950+tax. Please let me know your thoughts, and how you'd like to proceed. Thank You!”

There’s a lot that feels sketchy, especially wanting to know when did my coolant transfer and who put more in it? Why didn’t they check where it went when they filled it?

It feels especially odd since they found this right after I passed the 60k mile warranty, and they won’t do anything to honor the warranty

Should I trust them on this? Should I fight them to honor the warranty? Should I take it somewhere else?

Thanks for your help and advice!!

Hey everyone,

I recently had the clutch replaced on my Nissan Qashqai J10 (2.0 Petrol / 6-speed manual). Since getting it back, the clutch pedal loses pressure randomly but pumps back up to normal if I pump it quickly.

Also, the car is quite jerky in 1st and 2nd gear.
While investigating, I noticed that the clutch slave cylinder / bleed pipe housing sticking out of the gearbox moves quite a bit in tandem with the pedal strokes (see video).

I know these plastic fittings sit in a rubber grommet and have some lateral flex, but is this axial/in-and-out movement normal, or is the retaining clip/bushing missing or broken?

Could this flex be causing air to get sucked into the system and ruin the pedal pressure?
Any insights before I take it back to the shop would be greatly appreciated!