Left sliding door stuck closed . Tried the fuel cap safety button thing , tried battery disconnect checked child lock , pried open the panel everything moved

That’s my new hobby and now 2 weeks later I’m running out of space😅😂 I might start a ball

On cold start ,the lower air flap opens/closes 3 times then beeps and settles closed .

When I turn the engine off it reopens on its own and stay in open position.

Please advise if this is normally working or a sign of a fault ..no symbols on dashboard..thanks for your time

2025 Kia Niro EX

Hello all, I'm looking for advice on my 2012 prius. I'll try to give as much info as I can. Recently I was driving and I noticed the temperature icon was on the dash. Not long after that the vehicle lost power, and the dashboard lit up and showed check the hybrid system, stop vehicle in a safe place. I drove until I got to a place that was out of the way. I put it in park, and shut it off. I turned it on, and when I tried to shift into drive it would only go onto neutral.

I opened the hood and the overflow was completely dry. The inverter coolant tank was still full of fluid. I did some googling and turned the car to the in position to watch for swirling in the inverter tank and saw none. Google said it's most likely the electric water pump has gone out. I had it towed to my dad's house since it was close.

I came back the next day and tried to start it again (thought maybe it was just too hot the day before) and the same thing. I have one of the Bluetooth obdII scanners and scanned the system. I'll attach screen shots of the trouble codes.

Is this even worth trying to fix? Is the hybrid code related to the overheating? Everything I've read seems to point that it probably is, but I'm not sure. Is there anything else I need to check, or something perhaps I'm missing?

I've found a few YouTube videos on replacing the electric water pump, and while it doesn't seem that hard, I'm not sure if will solve the not starting issue afterwards. Should I clear the codes after replacing the pump? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to give as much info as possible.

I have been having this knock sensor issue with my 2020 Kia optima for months now.. Check engine light constantly blinking, car will not exceed past 2000 RPM but drives perfectly normal when under 2000rpm. I was told there was a class action or warranty? For this kia fault but my car vin doesn’t list under the recall.. anybody deal with any similar situation or any advice?? I was told I needed to pay $500 btc test to determine if anything is wrong with engine for replacement??

Please provide any feedback if possible, I just need to know the best move to make.

Location: Boston

Took my 2023 Honda CRV (62,000 miles) in to the dealership for a check engine light. Mechanic originally said the problem was spark plugs and quoted $350

They sent the text below today, quoting 7k+

“As your technician got everything broke down to replace the spark plugs, he was inspecting the cylinders with his borescope camera before install, and he found coolant leaking and pooling in cylinder #1. What this means is the vehicle needs a new cylinder head and head gasket kit for the engine. The parts could take several days to receive, and repair would take several days. Parts & labor for the engine repair, along with diagnostics and spark plug replacement: the total would come to $6,950+tax. Please let me know your thoughts, and how you'd like to proceed. Thank You!”

There’s a lot that feels sketchy, especially wanting to know when did my coolant transfer and who put more in it? Why didn’t they check where it went when they filled it?

It feels especially odd since they found this right after I passed the 60k mile warranty, and they won’t do anything to honor the warranty

Should I trust them on this? Should I fight them to honor the warranty? Should I take it somewhere else?

Thanks for your help and advice!!

Hey everyone,

I recently had the clutch replaced on my Nissan Qashqai J10 (2.0 Petrol / 6-speed manual). Since getting it back, the clutch pedal loses pressure randomly but pumps back up to normal if I pump it quickly.

Also, the car is quite jerky in 1st and 2nd gear.
While investigating, I noticed that the clutch slave cylinder / bleed pipe housing sticking out of the gearbox moves quite a bit in tandem with the pedal strokes (see video).

I know these plastic fittings sit in a rubber grommet and have some lateral flex, but is this axial/in-and-out movement normal, or is the retaining clip/bushing missing or broken?

Could this flex be causing air to get sucked into the system and ruin the pedal pressure?
Any insights before I take it back to the shop would be greatly appreciated!

Sensor reading P1575 and AC went out. Thoughts? thank you in advance

My car got rear ended on the tail light and now i got this. Is it worth fixing

So basically I went WAY overdue on my rear brake repair, and while I was waiting for my appointment date to come by, my dash lit up saying that I had an Electric Parking Brake Fault. I tried the quick fix option of switching the car to ignition without turning it on, holding the brake and then holding the parking brake switch up for 5 seconds then down for 5 seconds and did the repeat 3 times and nothing. Was wondering if anyone else has had the same issues with the same circumstances. Also to clarify I did end up having the rear brakes replaced and the person who did the work mentioned that everything with the rear calipers were in working condition, as in the actuators were moving as they should on command but still the fault remains. Any and all help is much appreciated. 2019 VW Jetta S 1.4t

2017 Chrysler Pacifica. Engine and transmission have been replaced under an extended warranty within the last two years, so I've got that going for me. Rack and pinion system is now the issue and extended warranty is up. 130k miles and I'm being told it's about a $5k repair. It looks like the van is worth $5k trade in without the R&P issue. Do I repair it for $5k and drive it till the wheels fall off or replace it?