Im at 44k 9n my 23 TRD Off road Premium with my factory tires. They have some life left to them but my wife picked up a nail, slow leak turned into a blowout with the front right tire with a 3 mile ride home. Needless to say I had to use the full size spare, I figured i could buy a new one and put the other old one as a spare. I was going to buy snow tires in the fall and put them on my stock rims and buy new tires/rims in the spring for changeover. But if i have 2 out of 4 newer tires(tread wise, I know thr spare is 3 years old but isnt dry rotted and has all its tread) if this isnt an insane idea, my question is do I need or is it reccomended to match tires, especially if both that are newer are on the front.

Title says it all. 2008 V6. I change my own oil all the time but I literally just spaced out and drained the transmission plug instead. Added the usual oil to the engine. It's been a few days but I haven't driven much, maybe 15 or 20 miles at most, and gently.

Am I fucked? Just dropped it off at the shop and they're going to refill / do an oil change. I felt some minor slipping but honestly it was driving fine, nothing really noticeable. glad I caught it bur feel like an absolute idiot. Have a road trip starting this weekend so praying the trans is okay.

Snagged this bumper for $800 ($5k new). Getting it bead blasted and recoated after I order a few replacement brackets. Seems worth saving. Crazy how much rust it has for only being 6 years old. Probably a good idea to add some POR-15 to the underside before installing. Thought I'd share!

As the title says I lifted my 2015 5th gen SR5 4Runner over the weekend, I used bilstein 5100 front and rear shocks accompanied by dobinson c59-505 rear springs. Got it aligned and not sure if these numbers are good. Still running stock UCA’s. Any suggestions for future upgrades regarding this suspension is helpful aswell.

<Posting for a friend>

Looking for recommendations to order and if possible pictures of your vehicle if you got these size rims. To see how this offset looks like when installed.

4runner limited 2018.

Want a little pushed out visible stance.

I have 265X70R17 Falkens wildpeaks tires.

Please let me know where I can order wheels from, or it's better to get from the local shop (Manitoba)?

Thanks for the help😊🙏

Looking to buy a 5th gen 4Runner. Where can I look online besides Autotrader, Cargurus, cars.com, & local Toyota dealers? Also, is light interior rare? I've only seen a few options that had higher miles than I was wanting, otherwise all the interior seems to be black. Thanks for any help or recommendations you can provide.

Not sure if I'm telling on myself for being an idiot here...or if my 5th gen (2018) 4runner is weird lol

I couldn't get my rear wiper to actually work intermittently, it would go full steam ahead if I turned the switch from "off" to "int"

In order to actually get them to work intermittently, I have to turn them all the way to "on" first, and then switch back to "int" and then it works exactly how I want lol

What’s up everyone,

I’m eyeing the 4Runner Platinum in all black as well as the Tundra Platinum. I haven’t sat inside the 4Runner, yet. Anyone that’s around my height at 6’4”, can they confirm how comfortable they are as far as the legroom and just overall space for long commutes? Thanks in advance

2008/212,000 km/v8/limited/
Any idea on the frame??
Rocker panel has some holes apparently

Mechanic noted some crusted/dried coolant residue along the bottom seam of my radiator during a routine service inspection today. Hard to say how long it’s been this way, but this is the first time it’s been noticed. I don’t have the skid plate off too often, but I’m glad to know about it. He said it wasn’t damp or appearing to be any major leak, but obviously this is something that will need to be addressed down the road.

I have not seen any signs of actual leaking coolant below the vehicle, or wet spots indicating such, and I check my fluid levels often and haven’t noticed any drop in the reservoir cold level. I had a coolant flush done last September.

TLDR; Curious if those who’ve replaced their radiators can ballpark the cost of the job. It doesn’t seem like it would be too terrible on a 5G, from what I’m seeing. I would opt for OEM part, unless there’s an advantage to going aftermarket like Denso or something. Thanks for any input!

(Ignore the caked on mud/dirt in the photo, it’s summer after all)

Hi all, I love the retro look of AR Outlaws or pro comp style wheels but I can’t find many reference photos online to see how they might match with a newer 4Runner.

Does anyone here have a more retro style wheels on a newer model that wouldnt mind sharing some photos of? Thank you!

Right after hitting 1,000 miles on my new 2026 4Runner, I took it to my local dealership yesterday for its first oil change. They couldn’t understand why I wanted it done so soon and tried to charge me $100, claiming ToyotaCare wouldn't cover it before 10,000 miles. After striking out with TWO service advisors, I spoke with the Service Manager. As an enthusiast, I’ve always done a 1,000-mile break in oil change and 5,000 mile intervals thereafter. They finally agreed to use one of my included ToyotaCare services, and later called to say the truck was ready.

I drove maybe half a block and something told me to pull over and check under the hood. Sure enough, the tech completely forgot to put the oil cap back on, and engine oil had sprayed all over the engine bay and soaked the hood insulator pad.

I immediately brought it back. They gave me a Prius loaner and promised to thoroughly detail and degrease the engine bay, replace the soaked hood pad, and top off the fluids. They delivered the truck back to my house today, but all they did was wipe down the top plastic engine cover with some greasy tire shine… the rest of the engine bay, hoses, battery, and fuse box were still covered in oil splatter. You can barely tell in some of the pictures, but there’s a thin coat of oil everywhere.

When I sent photos to the Service Manager and General Manager, the Service Manager’s response was: "I can come and pick it back up. I looked it over before releasing the vehicle and I didn’t see those."

It’s been a while since I’ve had to use a dealership service department… is this kind of incompetence and deflection normal now? Do Toyota service departments usually treat customers and brand-new vehicles like this?

Picked up the ‘18 TRD pro earlier this year and the previous owner had KING’s adjustable w/ remote reservoirs, it was immediately apparent that the rear bushing were shot, and the shocks were starting to leak (120k km on the clock, not sure how long the KING’s were on the truck). So while I did contemplate rebuilding, I decided to go Dobinson’s based on some positive reviews from friends who were running them on their Tacomas.

Only about 500 km on the new setup but absolutely loving it. I’ll be heading up to the interior this weekend for some light off-roading I’m looking forward to playing with some of the adjustability.

Who else is running the MRR?

So I got rear ended a month ago, and now there is so much rattling coming from where the jack and tools are stored in the trunk. Makes me believe they were fixed in place differently than how I placed it back in.

Not sure if I’m just dumb but, can anyone confirm if the jack just sits on that platform, with nothing holding it down? Or how it gets fixed into place.

Couldn’t find any info or threads on this.

( Apologies in advance for any errors/ typos)

My “new” 2023 TRD ORP has a little less than 15k on it but I was eager to learn how to grease the driveshaft & Spider joints. I’m reasonably mechanically inclined, but if I can do this, ANYONE can. I always learn best kinesthetically ( by doing). I’ve typed up a little of my advice as a newbie for other newbies, hopefully in a way that makes sense.

PRIOR to Greasing: First, I watched a bunch of YouTube tutorials and from different angles to see where the zerks were and how to grease them. Then I decided not to buy a cheap grease gun and I’m very happy with my choice: Lock ‘n’ Lube no.153, pistol grip. $75 on Amazon. There are way cheaper and just as good grease guns, but some require a steeper learning curve than the Lock ‘n’ Lube. I figured with a tool that can rupture under 8000-10000 PSI that I didn’t want to chance it.

GREASE: Then, I bought the correct Grease- NLGI no.2 LITHIUM or LITHIUM-complex. I studied grease types, learning that NLGI no.2 by itself is not an indicator of proper grease. ( neither is color a strict indicator either) for my 5th gen 4Runner, It has to be Lithium or Lithium Complex, NLGI no.2. The manual states that this type can be used on all propeller / shaft/ spider zerks. There is a molybdenum option for this as well but never mix greases without understanding what is correct. Be sure to prime the gun before greasing and mark the gun with the grease type to avoid mixing greases.

If you’ve never done this before: I will start by saying that if this is anyone else’s first time doing this, ( unless your vehicle is lifted at least a couple inches) you might want to hike your vehicle up on some 6x2’s and chock it if you don’t have a ramp.

It’s a TIGHT fit. I am petite, 5’4” and slim, and my 4Runner has standard tires (265’s) and isn’t lifted. I barely fit under there. I did it in my driveway on a large piece of cardboard.

Safety/ prep: Additionally, I wore my shooter’s safety glasses ( mainly because they have bifocals so my 54 yr. Old eyes could see! ) , nitrile gloves, and got some thick paper towels and Fantastic household cleaner to wipe the zerks. You might need a headlamp. I did not because i did it in my driveway in the morning and could see fine.

My 20 year old son got under there with me and immediately located the zerks on the front shaft. Front is easy because you can turn the shaft freely to access the zerks. Clean them with the cloth dampened with the household cleaner- clean side of cloth each time to avoid contamination. Once I did the front, the rear was tricky because I couldn’t rotate the shaft to get to the zerk.

TIP:
Easy way To get access to the rear zerks/ line them up: mark a rear tire at 6 o’clock with some chalk. Start the car and reverse/ or forward it until the chalk mark is at 12 o’clock. This put the zerk EXACTLY where I could access the zerk & grease it!

Another thing, keep track ( unlike me this 1st time ) of where you’ve greased and don’t over grease the OUTSIDE ( visible on the shafts) zerks. The spider/ U/ hidden inside joints can be greased until you hear a crackle.

I attached a photo of the grease gun I purchased. I used VALVOLINE LITHIUM NLGI no.2 (RED) Grease in a 14oz tube.

I was inside for 15 minutes, empty lot and FJ bro parked right next to me for safety. I do the same thing when I see runners, cruisers, and FJs. Because you know they're not going to ding your doors.

Just picked up this 99 2wd 4runner with 180k miles for $4500 for my first car (im 18) and im super excited to kit this thing out and any advice/ tips would be greatly appreciated since i dont know much about cars in general 🙏

Purchased a 2017 Limited a month ago. Love the truck, so far haven’t had any issues, runs and drives great. I have however noticed that there is a loud beep coming from the dash when I start the truck. The sequence goes brake, push to start, loud beep, ignition. This happens every time I start it. Is this a normal part of the starting sequence, or is this to notify me of an issue with the vehicle? No lights on the dash, no maintenance messages displaying. It does it regardless of seatbelt on/off, windows up/down, doors opened/closed… Wondering if anyone knows what this beep means, or hopefully, can tell me that it’s a normal thing and nothing to be afraid of. Thanks!