I need a poop chute that goes down to the left side of my printer, with a removable bucket that kinda “floats” as my printer is right on the edge of a kallax unit. I have searched and cannot find anything.

Or a slim vertical chute that can go into a kallax square.

Please help me.

Does anyone know the reason my print has the lifted side in the picture I attached. It had happened on the two parts I just made and all I can think of is the bed not hot enough and cooling leading to it lifting but I can’t be sure does anyone know?

Maybe some of you are LitRPG fans like I am. I've created Potent Hamster Magnets inspired by the cover of Book 1 of He Who Fights With Monsters. Nothing crazy exciting or intricate. But its the second model I have created so far. If you care to print it yourself, go take a gander.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3069876-potent-hamster-magnet#profileId-3455801

I don't have a 3D printer yet, but I thought before getting one I should get familiar with 3D modelling since my main idea are some custom designs/parts.

I'm a geek and work in tech, so my first idea was "Hey, there must already be proper tools out there to create these models in a VR headset" but apparently there isn't.

Do we lack such tools for hobbyists? I don't want to use controllers or anything, I just wanted to make use of the ability to see things in 3D in the VR but still use my mouse/keyboard to edit it (I already have virtual desktop app).

As for Ipad, I have Onshape installed, does it come close to something like Fusion in terms of ease of use and features? Alternative would be to learn Fusion and use on my PC, and just remote connect to the PC from the Ipad whenever I need it.

I made jimothy

Hello!

I’m relatively new to FDM printing (3 or so days), and I have been running into issues on the side supports are placed on. Is there any recommendations on settings, or ways I can fix this via sanding or acetone?

For reference, I’m using a Bambu Lab A1 mini with the basic PLA, with a 0.2 nozzle.

Thanks for any help!

I want to print some Pikmin (and I'm sure many others) figures for my son to play with. Some of the prints in question or basically just statues of the larger creatures, not the small Pikmin with tiny pieces. What filament would you recommend for something more durable than just basic PLA?

Thanks! Example is linked below

https://makerworld.com/en/models/245182-pikmin-burrowing-snagret#profileId-261582

Been using the high speed settings in my last post for two weeks now, keeping an eye on the print quality and a finger to the pulse of my U1 to hear/feel/see any potential issues. This octopus is becoming a speed bench for me The first one I printed two weeks ago with Bambu Turquoise, Magenta, Silk Silver (slowed down to 3.6mm³/s for shine) and Galaxy Nebulae was with the Standard 0.20mm process speeds. At 100% scale 10% Gyroid infill took 1d18h40m.

Latest octopus is Ziro Chameleon Velvet Green and Silky Silver Black (still 3.6mm³/s for shine), Bambu glow in the dark Blue and Green. At 100% scale 10% Gyroid infill still 0.20mm layer height with the speed settings I shared last took 1d2h12m for a time savings of 16.5 hours!

I've since been testing rolling back some of the Jerk, Wipe while retracting, and Retraction speed settings to see if those are making some strings/blobs or not. I need to do some actual back to back comparisons. Also tried disabled ramming. I'm on Snorca 2.3.1 and firmware 1.3.0

I am using A1 with AMS and Bambu labs PLA Basic

What is the thinker without its head ?

My prize from the SunLu giveaway arrived today! 6 rolls of filament: PLA Black, PLA Grey, PLA+2.0 White, PLA META Taro Purple, TPU 90A White, and PETG White.

Thanks again to u/SunLu3D_Official for the care package!

I started having intermittent feeding issues when printing directly from my Chitu E1 dry box. After looking into it, I realized the filament was entering the PTFE fitting at roughly a 45 angle. While that points toward the spool, it also creates unnecessary friction because the filament really wants to enter the fitting more tangentially.

To solve that, I redesigned the hygrometer/PTFE connector mount. The new filament path is angled by only about 10 degree, which gives the filament a much smoother transition into the fitting while keeping everything compact.

I've been using this version without any feeding issues, so I thought I'd share it in case it's useful to others.

You can find the model here:
https://www.printables.com/model/1788630-chitu-e1-box-hygrometer-mount-optimized-ptfe-conne

Feedback and suggestions are always welcome!

Never really encountered anything like this..I have to re-calibrate all my filament since I stupidly updated orca without doing a backup and all my filament profiles got deleted...now I'm trying max flow and it only looks bad in one direction for some reason...I'm using petg at 240°c

9kg for under £50. Did some research and the filament appears to be legit in terms of quality. Anyone here already tried it out?

JoyBuy are currently trying to position themselves as Amazon UKs main competitor so the entire platform is pretty reasonable in terms of price right now.

Made to fit on my engine models, it works better than I anticipated.
I may make a larger version to put on a washing machine motor.

Hello, i am trying to make this painting into a 3d model. I tried doing it in meshy.ai but it just didnt turn up printable and looked bad. Can someone work me through modeling it?(or maybe doing if its easy...)

its supposed to be a birthday gift for a good friend in like two weeks.

First image is a stock image of the chair with its normal arms still attached.

Finally completed this project recently, I started working on this back in March and while I finished the design and even made the final parts quite some time ago, I just finally got around to putting everything together and installing it late last night

I loved the Millberget chair at Ikea, but my one issue was that it didn't have adiustable armrests, and its existing arm rests are too low (for me)

Initially I was just going to bolt on a riser to the existing arm rests to lift the pads up to the level I wanted, but my girlfriend uses the chair sometimes too and I may change my setup in the future, so went all out over engineering this instead

I designed everything in OnShape which was surprisingly good (my previous cad experience was pretty much Tinkercad and using OnShape exactly twice for something much, much more basic)

I also wanted just a tiny bit of color, hence the red accents for the lever

Printed in PETG, ended up requiring 6 plates to print evervthing, and then a lot of assembling of fina parts with little dowel connectors and a plastic bonder, held everything together while it cured with bar clamps

The arm rests also have a hooking mechanism so that they don't iust pull right off the top once they're on, but you can insert a screwdriver (or your finger) and depress it so it can slide off the rail and be swapped out/replaced easily in the future if need be.