"Made" this knife a little while ago.

I didn't have a good knife for de-boning a whole chicken or turkey, or a good knife for cutting any raw meat, so decided to make one from one of my steak knives.

Removed the teeth with a standard bench grinder, and formed a bevel and sharpened it on a Norton India IB8 and finished on a leather strop with green compound.

It's turned out a lovely knife to use. I'm not sure how good the steel is, but it gets very very sharp

When every knife in my house couldn’t cut butter, I knew that made no stupid sense. I went whetstone to diamond plate to diamond lapping film. After two months of daily practice and watching many videos, my kitchen knives are “dangerously sharp.” It was muscle memory and feel like everything else.

I am a poor college student with cheap knives who would really appreciate the ability to cut a tomato. Complete beginner, so something with less of a learning curve would be much appreciated.

Under $25 USD if possible (sorry if that’s nonexistent, I have no idea what I’m doing)

Thank you in advance!

Applied an edge to a Konosuke GH with a factory edge. Photos are ordered as follows:

After, before, a vertical shot of the blade taken at #600, knife before sharpening, setup displaying #600 stone.

Since I recently threw away my #1000 stone, I substituted it with a #600 and applied a nagura slurry to reduce the abrasion. After that was done, I deburred and stropped, then proceeded onto the #3000/6000. In between those stones and at the very end I performed a light stropping.

As the title mentions, I'm pretty happy with the result! It was my first time using the Chosera Pro series and they seem to be very efficient and versatile stones. I can't wait to try the #1000!

Progression:

Naniwa Chosera Pro #600 + Synthetic Nagura + Deburring Pad/Leather Stropping

Nano Hone #3000/6000 + Synthetic Nagura + Leather Stropping

I have a collection of folding knives, mostly Spyderco, and from time to time I need to sharpen/touch up the edge.

What I find really hard is maintaining the angle when going from belly to the tip of the knife.

Are vertical sharpeners (like Spyderco Sharpmaker, Worksharp Angle Set) more forgiving to an inexperienced user?

I'm wondering if flattening a 6"/1" Washita stone is going to wreck my coarse diamond plate. The Arkansas stone is slightly conveyed on the side I want flat, other is covered in glue but looks flat. I've battled that adhesive before. It wouldn't really scrape or lap off with SiC powders and glass in my experience. The diamond plate is a SSATC(DMD) 150 grit. BTW, I wouldn't suggest buying these double sided plates from SSATC, which are coming from DMD. I own three, all doub.e sided, and every plate is conveyed slightly on one side. Ok for sharpening but not for lapping. The finer sides always have pretty significant grit contamination also, making it useless for refining you're edge. The diamonds do seem to stay in place though. Anyways, thanks in advance for any help or advice.

I'm wondering what you all think about this situation. I'm trying to sharpen a plane iron and don't have much experience doing so.

I have a good process in place for getting the bevel -- I have a honing guide and all that. But the bottom needs to be as dead-flat as possible. You can use the so-called "ruler trick" to back-bevel it slightly to get around a not-flat back, but I'd like to just flatten the back so I don't have to worry about all that.

It seems to have a hump in the middle. So my strategy has been to put a piece of PSA sandpaper on a granite flat reference stone to get rid of material fast. I also have a diamond stone (sort of like an Atoma but cheaper/worse). But it's taking absolutely forever. I've been at it for maybe a couple hours total.

I'll move to water stones, but only after I get a basic level of flatness.

Any thoughts on how to handle this? I'm thinking about maybe focusing only on the first inch or so near the edge -- at least then it's less material to take off.

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this. I have a few kitchen knives that I use pretty often and am looking for a simpler to use electric knife sharpener to keep them going.

I know that stones would probably be a better option, but it is something I do not want or care to do. I was looking at the Work Sharp E5 because it has guides and a few different belts you can get that look like it can maintain a knife for normal cooking.

Is this a good option or are there other options I should consider? I know they also make their Ken Onion one, but liked the E5 for the guides.

Thank you for the advice.

Title says it all. Having an issue with uneven factory bevels between sides and that tip...

How would you clamp it?

I currently have a worksharp adjust. I just got a universal stone holder for it & I have a clamp stabilizing support for it as well. My plan was to buy a nice set of Hapstone stones for it, but I see the tsprof pioneer is on sale for $250 right now.

I’ve never really had issues with my worksharp, it does the job well and I’m sure would do even better with bigger better stones. Will I be better off keeping the system I have and going with a wider variety of better stones, or upgrading to the tsprof and only using the included stones for now?

Today I dropped my saber clippers and none of the teeth or blade broke, and now it will barely cut at all, i have already took it apart and put it together but still same outcome. What should I do?

Getting too lazy to use whetstones and looking for the next best thing to getting the knives as close as possible to a whetstone.

Was looking at the horl and finishing with stropping on a 6000 stone with the final strop on a leather with green compound.

One thing I don't like is the 20 and 15 degree angles and also the price. Is there anything as fast but more customisable for angles out there?

I tried to sharpen my Benchmade Crooked River knife in the past, but I didn't really know what I was doing - I didn't hurt it, in fact, I never really got a good burr. Hand sharpening with good Japanese stones, but I realized I really wasn't skilled enough yet with holding an angle. etc.

I have a new TSprof Kadet Pro on the way, and after I sharpen all the kitchen knives I want to sharpen my Crooked River. I don't know what angle it is at currently; I think I was targeting 15 degrees in the past because that sounded "sharp."

Other than chastising me for my ignorance in the past, what tips would you give me when I go to sharpen this knife? Angle to shoot for, etc. Thanks

In my never-ending pursuit of perfect edges I've gone from zero edge grind high grit mirror 12 DPS obsession, "zero edge grind" convex terminating at 15 DPS, low grit flat and convex, to 45 degree tiny 3-7 light stroke high grit microbevels, to where I am now. Which is asymmetric microbevels. The grind is not original to me at all, and stems from japanese style edges as used on katanas and by rockstead who finish their edges with one side flat ground and the other convex.

I have been trying this on some high carbide steels, attempting to maximize the benefits of high carbide wear resistance while keeping good edge stability. The thought process for this originated with the revelation that D2 carbides are so large that you need to physically keep the apex reinforced with 20+ DPS so that there's enough steel matrix attached to it. It's also kinda how axe grinds are done where you use a file to get to about 17 DPS but then microbevel to about 30 DPS to support the edge to survive the massive impacts it sees. I've done this on M390 and D2: grind one side flat at 12-15 DPS, then the other side also at the same angle, then microbevel one side (I'm right handed so the convex goes on the right side of the blade from the perspective of using it) to about 45 degrees. To the naked eye you can't tell it's got an asymmetric microbevel because it's a very small microbevel.

So far it's been pretty nice on high carbide! Good slicing feel/ease. My edge stability test is to cut up the top/bottom of an aluminum can where it's thicker for 5 cuts and still be able to shave arm/facial hair afterwards, which this edge has been passing with flying colors so far. Seems to retain decent slicing aggression due to thin grind, especially on the flat ground side. Additional benefits of this grind are stupid quick touch ups, very easy deburring, and really easy feather sticks when carving wood!

I can't be the first to try this out but I never hear of any one talking about it. Any one tried this before?

TLDR: sharpen to 12-15 DPS then microbevel one side to 45 degrees on high grit. So far slicey and durable.