When every knife in my house couldn’t cut butter, I knew that made no stupid sense. I went whetstone to diamond plate to diamond lapping film. After two months of daily practice and watching many videos, my kitchen knives are “dangerously sharp.” It was muscle memory and feel like everything else.

Applied an edge to a Konosuke GH with a factory edge. Photos are ordered as follows:

After, before, a vertical shot of the blade taken at #600, knife before sharpening, setup displaying #600 stone.

Since I recently threw away my #1000 stone, I substituted it with a #600 and applied a nagura slurry to reduce the abrasion. After that was done, I deburred and stropped, then proceeded onto the #3000/6000. In between those stones and at the very end I performed a light stropping.

As the title mentions, I'm pretty happy with the result! It was my first time using the Chosera Pro series and they seem to be very efficient and versatile stones. I can't wait to try the #1000!

Progression:

Naniwa Chosera Pro #600 + Synthetic Nagura + Deburring Pad/Leather Stropping

Nano Hone #3000/6000 + Synthetic Nagura + Leather Stropping

Title says it all. Having an issue with uneven factory bevels between sides and that tip...

How would you clamp it?

Ive attempted numerous times to get these tools sharp, and i have watched so many videos. Attempting my hardest to maintain angles, and so many others tips of advice, i just cant seem to do it.

I have in this photo: - 3 nicholas files, bastard, smooth, slimtaper - 180-600 Gransfurs Bruks sharpening puck - Mountain Equipment Coop hatchet - Gransfurs Bruks small wildlife hatchet - Shapton 2000 whetstone And 2 gerber strongarms.

Is there anything that might be common issues not addressed? Or any tips/strategies you guy's have? Im kinda lost, and am unsure of what im doing wrong.

I'm wondering if flattening a 6"/1" Washita stone is going to wreck my coarse diamond plate. The Arkansas stone is slightly conveyed on the side I want flat, other is covered in glue but looks flat. I've battled that adhesive before. It wouldn't really scrape or lap off with SiC powders and glass in my experience. The diamond plate is a SSATC(DMD) 150 grit. BTW, I wouldn't suggest buying these double sided plates from SSATC, which are coming from DMD. I own three, all doub.e sided, and every plate is conveyed slightly on one side. Ok for sharpening but not for lapping. The finer sides always have pretty significant grit contamination also, making it useless for refining you're edge. The diamonds do seem to stay in place though. Anyways, thanks in advance for any help or advice.

I'm wondering what you all think about this situation. I'm trying to sharpen a plane iron and don't have much experience doing so.

I have a good process in place for getting the bevel -- I have a honing guide and all that. But the bottom needs to be as dead-flat as possible. You can use the so-called "ruler trick" to back-bevel it slightly to get around a not-flat back, but I'd like to just flatten the back so I don't have to worry about all that.

It seems to have a hump in the middle. So my strategy has been to put a piece of PSA sandpaper on a granite flat reference stone to get rid of material fast. I also have a diamond stone (sort of like an Atoma but cheaper/worse). But it's taking absolutely forever. I've been at it for maybe a couple hours total.

I'll move to water stones, but only after I get a basic level of flatness.

Any thoughts on how to handle this? I'm thinking about maybe focusing only on the first inch or so near the edge -- at least then it's less material to take off.

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this. I have a few kitchen knives that I use pretty often and am looking for a simpler to use electric knife sharpener to keep them going.

I know that stones would probably be a better option, but it is something I do not want or care to do. I was looking at the Work Sharp E5 because it has guides and a few different belts you can get that look like it can maintain a knife for normal cooking.

Is this a good option or are there other options I should consider? I know they also make their Ken Onion one, but liked the E5 for the guides.

Thank you for the advice.

In my never-ending pursuit of perfect edges I've gone from zero edge grind high grit mirror 12 DPS obsession, "zero edge grind" convex terminating at 15 DPS, low grit flat and convex, to 45 degree tiny 3-7 light stroke high grit microbevels, to where I am now. Which is asymmetric microbevels. The grind is not original to me at all, and stems from japanese style edges as used on katanas and by rockstead who finish their edges with one side flat ground and the other convex.

I have been trying this on some high carbide steels, attempting to maximize the benefits of high carbide wear resistance while keeping good edge stability. The thought process for this originated with the revelation that D2 carbides are so large that you need to physically keep the apex reinforced with 20+ DPS so that there's enough steel matrix attached to it. It's also kinda how axe grinds are done where you use a file to get to about 17 DPS but then microbevel to about 30 DPS to support the edge to survive the massive impacts it sees. I've done this on M390 and D2: grind one side flat at 12-15 DPS, then the other side also at the same angle, then microbevel one side (I'm right handed so the convex goes on the right side of the blade from the perspective of using it) to about 45 degrees. To the naked eye you can't tell it's got an asymmetric microbevel because it's a very small microbevel.

So far it's been pretty nice on high carbide! Good slicing feel/ease. My edge stability test is to cut up the top/bottom of an aluminum can where it's thicker for 5 cuts and still be able to shave arm/facial hair afterwards, which this edge has been passing with flying colors so far. Seems to retain decent slicing aggression due to thin grind, especially on the flat ground side. Additional benefits of this grind are stupid quick touch ups, very easy deburring, and really easy feather sticks when carving wood!

I can't be the first to try this out but I never hear of any one talking about it. Any one tried this before?

TLDR: sharpen to 12-15 DPS then microbevel one side to 45 degrees on high grit. So far slicey and durable.

I currently have a worksharp adjust. I just got a universal stone holder for it & I have a clamp stabilizing support for it as well. My plan was to buy a nice set of Hapstone stones for it, but I see the tsprof pioneer is on sale for $250 right now.

I’ve never really had issues with my worksharp, it does the job well and I’m sure would do even better with bigger better stones. Will I be better off keeping the system I have and going with a wider variety of better stones, or upgrading to the tsprof and only using the included stones for now?

Today I dropped my saber clippers and none of the teeth or blade broke, and now it will barely cut at all, i have already took it apart and put it together but still same outcome. What should I do?

Getting too lazy to use whetstones and looking for the next best thing to getting the knives as close as possible to a whetstone.

Was looking at the horl and finishing with stropping on a 6000 stone with the final strop on a leather with green compound.

One thing I don't like is the 20 and 15 degree angles and also the price. Is there anything as fast but more customisable for angles out there?

I have a collection of folding knives, mostly Spyderco, and from time to time I need to sharpen/touch up the edge.

What I find really hard is maintaining the angle when going from belly to the tip of the knife.

Are vertical sharpeners (like Spyderco Sharpmaker, Worksharp Angle Set) more forgiving to an inexperienced user?

I am a poor college student with cheap knives who would really appreciate the ability to cut a tomato. Complete beginner, so something with less of a learning curve would be much appreciated.

Under $25 USD if possible (sorry if that’s nonexistent, I have no idea what I’m doing)

Thank you in advance!

This is how this device was born. Essentially, it's two 3D-printed parts: a lens tube and a housing.

The tube is simply a tube. On one end, there's an RMS thread for attaching lenses.

On the other, there's just a hole for the eyepiece. Currently, the model archive contains two types of tubes: one for 23mm and one for 30mm in diameter.

The tube is inserted into the housing and secured with a screw.

housing also has an additional hole for a flashlight.

In the "travel position," the tube is inserted inside the tripod.

Now, on to the actual operation. There are two main positions. The first is working suspended with the blade resting against the ground.

The knife is clamped in the sharpener. We rest the sharpener against the vertical section of the tripod and focus by moving the tube.

By adjusting the tilt of the device, we control the illumination of the area.

The second method is working on a flat surface. This way, you can evaluate abrasives and engage in any similar activities related to high-magnification observations.

Here are some example photos. All of them were simply taken with a phone through an eyepiece, handheld, without any mount.

3d models

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2361707-optical-sharpening-inspector-microscope

"Made" this knife a little while ago.

I didn't have a good knife for de-boning a whole chicken or turkey, or a good knife for cutting any raw meat, so decided to make one from one of my steak knives.

Removed the teeth with a standard bench grinder, and formed a bevel and sharpened it on a Norton India IB8 and finished on a leather strop with green compound.

It's turned out a lovely knife to use. I'm not sure how good the steel is, but it gets very very sharp

I tried to sharpen my Benchmade Crooked River knife in the past, but I didn't really know what I was doing - I didn't hurt it, in fact, I never really got a good burr. Hand sharpening with good Japanese stones, but I realized I really wasn't skilled enough yet with holding an angle. etc.

I have a new TSprof Kadet Pro on the way, and after I sharpen all the kitchen knives I want to sharpen my Crooked River. I don't know what angle it is at currently; I think I was targeting 15 degrees in the past because that sounded "sharp."

Other than chastising me for my ignorance in the past, what tips would you give me when I go to sharpen this knife? Angle to shoot for, etc. Thanks

Hi all, relatively new to sharpening.

Just wondered is it possible to get a SAK hair popping sharp?

I can get mine very sharp (it cut me just from accidently barely touching my skin), it shaves the hair on my legs (easier than my arm hair), but it's not what I'd class as "hair popping sharp".

Am I doing anything wrong, or is that as good as I'll get a Swiss Army Knife?

I'm using a Norton India IB8 and a leather strop with green compound, stuck to a nice piece of flat hardwood.

In my limited experience with a few things I have sharpened, I find I can get carbon steel (in things like chisels and plane blades) sharper than stainless.

Any advice? Thanks

Cheap Rapala, unknown steel 6-1/8th inch blade length.

Thinking of 15 maybe 16dps but not too sure if thats too low. First time sharpening a fillet knife and i know my VG10 Endura 4 at 18dps took major chips on mackerel as a bait knife.

Im assuming the rapala has a harder steel but i have no idea for sure.

What do yall do for filet knives? TIA.

I recently bought my first knife in White 2 and have been using it heavily for about two weeks. Intentionally looking for meals that require a lot of knife work. As you do.

Brand new it would glide through a paper towels, shave hair, do all the party trucks. It no longer does, which I expected eventually but it seems a little premature.

The actual cutting hasn't really changed. I'm guessing that's partly because the knife is so thin behind the edge. So I'm not sure If I'm ready to put it on the stone. I'll probably wait till it starts crushing herbs and such.

So I guess my question is: Is this typical of White 2?

Are you touching it up on a finishing stone as soon as it loses that "hair-shaving" edge? Strop it until performance starts to drop? Or wait until you notice it truly struggling before going back to the stones?

I'm mostly curious what everyone's maintenance routine looks like for carbon.

This is my whetstone. There are many like it. But this one is mine.

I was given this stone by a guy who was closing his sharpening business. We were chatting about sharpening chisels. He gave me this stone to use on them. He said always soak it, and he said it partially dried so there was mildew on the back (pic 2). And lastly he gave me that little whisp of a leveling stone.

I use it to sharpen all my knives its a great stone. But I think I should get a new leveling stone. The one I was given is clay I believe. He didn't have any details on the the stone

Are there any points I should be aware of if I try and find a new leveling stone?

edit: word

I’ve come across this type of device, available for around $50 via AliExpress, I’m attaching photos to this post I don’t think links to AliExpress are allowed on this subreddit, although maybe I am wrong.

I sharpen free hand using a cheap 320 diamond plate, follow by a Naniwa 1000. I keep the angle by holding the knife in a certain position on my thumb. I only own a Wüsthof chefs knife, and a few petty knives of different brands, the steel that I am sharpening is not the best quality. Hopefully this will change soon, I am looking to get a proper Japanese knife, either of Aogomi or HAP40 steel.

Using the current stones, knives, and free hand technique, I’m able to get my knives sharp enough to easily slice through paper, although I have yet to get that hair whittling edge.

Has anybody used one before? Would anybody recommend one? My idea would be to combine one with a cheap electronic angle finder, but then I ask myself is it even needed of my current freehand sharpening is working as is.

After several trials, I came up with the following proportions. Mix 80g of magnesium oxide and 100g of aluminum oxide f320(about 400 grit) in a container until smooth. Dissolve 40g of magnesium chloride in 40g of water, then add it to the remaining ingredients and mix. The consistency is quite thick. I intentionally did this to prevent the aluminum oxide from settling while the mixture was setting.

I used a degassing chamber to remove air bubbles, but due to the mixture's thickness, I couldn't remove all the bubbles.

You either need to thin it out or vibrate it. Alternatively, you can make a very thick mixture and press it into molds.

Our sharpening stones can be removed from the formwork after 24 hours of mixing, then the stones are flatten on glass. Lapping is accomplished with its own suspension, without pre-soaking the stone.

In my opinion, aluminum oxide works better than silicon carbide. Because the abrasive grains roll around in the water suspension during sharpening, they don't split into pieces like silicon carbide, but rather roll around, gradually decreasing in size. Thus, aluminum oxide, while cutting the metal, minimally "traumatizes" the bevel, creating a shallow sharpening line. The edge is polished very well, while the micro-saw remains roughly consistent with the grit.

here's aluminum oxide

The stone works quickly, but gets clogged quite easily.

It's also very easy to clean. During sharpening, you can spray it with water from a spray bottle, and after sharpening, if desired, simply swirl it on a glass surface with its own suspension.