Looking for any list of UV protective fabrics and materials, ideally what fibres naturally offer uv protection at different levels, and any specialized materials made for UV protection (or anything that can add additional protection)

Ongoing health issues, recent sun sensitivity with Sunscreen. Options for clothing with UV protection is limited in styles, and would need alterations anyways, so I’d like to see what would be possible for making my own clothes with additional protection)

I made the bathrust top and it has a big gap on my back, do you know how I can fix it? I would like to redo as little as possible. Thank you!

Edit: I still haven'd done the bottom that's why it looks irregular.

Hi I am sewing an from simplicity pattern 8230. I have stitched on the facing for the arm hole. I have pressed i T out and understood it. Now I’m going to press it in and top stitch it but there’s these two pieces of the facing each about a half inch long hanging at the bottom of the arm hole. I was instructed to leave and half inch on each side, but is not clear at all what I’m supposed to do with that bit of facing that’s left

I got rid of most of my sewing supplies when I moved cross country, including my machine. I thrifted a good sturdy Kenmore and I've been really itching to make something lately, though. Since I work at a German restaurant and have found most mass-produced dirndls to be made of fabric I wouldn't want to wear to work, I decided to put my machine back to work in the last couple of days!

Pattern: Folkwear 123 Austrian Dirndl (XL graded to 2XL, bodice only)
Fabric: Canvas&Co Summer Plaid

I have a lot of work to do for the next iteration of this bodice, for example some minor fit issues that I'd want to deal with. I also really struggled with the facing and need to work a little harder on that next time.

Still need to do the skirt, apron, and blouse, but I'm pretty happy with having taken care of the most difficult bit of sewing for this outfit.

Anyways, I'd be happy for any tips or constructive criticism!

Hi all-

Through FBMP and the thrift gods smiling on me I have somehow come in into possession of three smocking/pleating machines. One is the Sally Stanley. The second is the Reed smock gathering machine. The third is the little Amanda mocking pleater.

I need to create some space in my sewing room and need everyone’s guidance.

Which one should I keep? Which ones should I sell and what is a reasonable price?

I’ve never used these, but I’m looking forward to it and could use educated minds opinions.

Thank you so much!

So I'm working my way through different beginner projects with zippers and can really only find a large selection of standard zippers in my local fabric stores. One of them does sell zippers by the yard, but only in 2-3 limited colours, and with only a handful of different zipper pulls. Where can I find different zipper sizes (teeth, not length), or pulls to change it up? Can I change out the pull on this zipper, or does it need to be with a similar pull? Located in Canada, so the usual US stores won't work for me

Haii, does anyone have any free pattern, or tips on how to make this kind of top? ive been searching for a very long time now and every pattern i find is too expensive for me

I’m going to attempt to make the skirt tights. And I wonder if anyone has had any experience with it. I was thinking of coping the size of tights and use that as a pattern. But I wonder of about the thread to use and fabric. Basically, everything. The tension on the machine and so on.

I sewed this dress pattern (last pic). I adjusted it 6cm in the front and 8cm in the back, so it could meet underneath the arms without a gap. But i get this bulging excess of fabric underneath the arms. It makes a gap, and the dress doesn't sit on the skin under the arms. Both front and back, but worse in the front.

How do I best adjust it so there is no gap? I made a quick and not pretty fix before the pictures, but.... yeah. That's not it. I raised the edges in the back about 4-5cm. And clipped up a fold 4,5cm on the side of the bust to make it lay flat on the body.

I should probably raise the mid line, that might help. But where do I take out the excess? Should I make the edge line upwards, instead of being straight. Should I incorporate it in the bust line, so the area folded is bigger? I'm not used to a top with this shape, so I'm struggling with finding the correct area in my alterations book.

I did do a test of the top before I started, but it fit very differently with the straps on.

I recently needed to make a gift for two different friends so I decided to make them the same crossbody bag but with different fabrics, hardware, etc. and I'm so glad I made two at once! I might never make a single item at a time again. 😅 The initial set up was a little slower (more time ironing and cutting) but the process of sewing felt so much faster. When I was done, it really felt like a huge accomplishment to have both bags finished, but I think it was less effort overall. From now on, I'm making all of my accessory items in multiples! ✨ I'm hoping it'll have the added side effect of building up my "ready to gift items" collection. If you have a tip similar to "make two things at once" I'd love to know. 🧵

Construction and other details:

I watched a tutorial for this bag because I like it when instructions are spelled out for me, but overall I think it would have been an easy enough pattern to follow. I basically followed the pattern as written, but made two small changes. First, I wanted the ability to put the bag over the left or right shoulder, so I added a D-ring to both sides of the bottom of the bag. Second, the pattern calls for the strap to be sewn into the top, but I like removable straps so that I can make different straps people can switch out, so I didn't sew it into the bag.

Pattern: Mini Traveler Crossbody Pouch by Kandou Patterns

Bag 1 details (Sailor Moon fabric)--
*Main fabric: Alchemats, Sailor Moon motif
*Other fabrics: Generic dark green canvas; Misc. very old fabrics I can't track anymore (in the pockets)
*Hardware: Sailor Moon wand zipper pull from Alchemats; Star zipper pull from My Handmade Space (I think); Rainbow zipper tape from Sew Sweetness; Generic gunmetal hardware from various places
*Other materials: Woven label from Sarah Hearts; strap webbing from Georgia Girl Stitches

Bag 2 details (horse fabric)--
*Main fabric: Cotton + Steel, Wild & Free collection, I believe
*Other fabrics: Generic green canvas; Misc. very old fabrics I can't track anymore (in the pockets)
*Hardware: Unicorn zipper pull from Sew Sweetness; Coral zipper tape from My Handmade Space; Generic gunmetal hardware from various places
*Other materials: Woven label from Sarah Hearts; strap webbing from Georgia Girl Stitches

Apologies for any typos or mistakes in information. I'm a real person typing with real hands and not enough coffee.

Hi all! I'm really hoping someone can help me! I've made a really cute onesie for a new baby in the family, but I can't get the snaps to fasten! I've watched videos with instructions, but I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, or if it's just the case that my fabric is too thick. Any suggestions would be gratefully received! The first photo shows the length of the "prong".... I'm wondering if it's just too short? 2nd photo is spike ends and male and female ends, none of which are connecting. 3rd photo is the tool I'm using. I've tried removing the yellow rubber parts, it still doesn't work. Leaving them on results in the separate parts lodging in the rubber. I've used an awl to make the initial hole. 4th photo is onsie in question.

Any guidance would be gratefully appreciated! If I need to get different snaps I'll do so, but I'd really appreciate a brand recommendation. I'm currently using hemline plastic snaps. TIA

I’m trying to redesign my baby’s oxygen cannula headband and would love some advice from people with experience sewing knits and using KAM snaps.

The current headband from Amazon is pretty thick, so it bunches above his ears and doesn’t sit as low as I’d like. I’m hoping to make a thinner, softer version that still securely holds his oxygen tubing. The photo is of the current one.

Materials:

200 GSM bamboo jersey (95% bamboo from bamboo viscose, 5% spandex) - Ordered

KAM snaps - still considering

Considering silicone-backed fold-over elastic (or another grippy material) for the tubing tabs instead of grosgrain ribbon. - still considering

My current plan is:

Sew a soft tube-style headband from the bamboo jersey.

Add two small snap tabs that wrap around the oxygen tubing (the tubing can’t be threaded through closed loops, so the tabs need to open and close).

Reinforce the snap locations since the bamboo jersey is stretchy.

My questions:

What’s the best way to reinforce KAM snap areas on bamboo jersey? Lightweight knit fusible interfacing? Woven cotton? Something else?

Would you reinforce just the snap area or the entire tab?

Is there a better material than ribbon for the tabs that would add a little grip on the tubing without being bulky or irritating?

Any suggestions for keeping the headband from stretching out over time while still staying soft enough for an infant?

If you’ve sewn baby accessories with bamboo jersey, are there any pitfalls or tips I should know before I start?

I’ve attached a photo of the current headband for reference. I’m not trying to change the function, just make it softer, thinner, and a better fit for my baby.

Hi,

I would say I am an advanced beginner sewist. I want to draft my own pattern for a half-zip (or button) pullover jacket/sweatshirt. I recently purchased this nice floral pattern fabric/sherpa material and I want to make one out of it. I did find a pattern but want to branch out and try creating a pattern of my own.

I have never drafted my own pattern before. I figured this might be easier than say a dress would be. Maybe?

Any tips or tricks? Should I get computer software (i.e., Adobe) to help with this?

Thank you!

Hi everyone, I’m making a prototype duffle bag design pattern and could use some guidance. I made my own side panel shape in adobe illustrator and got the exact measurement of 38” for the perimeter of it. I then made a rectangle body piece to go around it that measures exactly 38” from zipper edge to zipper edge. When I clip it together it seems like the body panel is slightly larger and kinda looks like the body panel is bunching up around the perimeter of the side panel shape. I doubled checked measurements and they are correct but It seems no matter which way I clip it, it still bunches slightly so do I make the body panel slightly shorter by a hair? This is a prototype so it’s just a trial with scrap fabric but I plan to add leather piping and liner as well just trying to get the base shape figured out first. Any guidance is much appreciated. Thank You!

I hand sewed a bag made of old jeans a while ago. However, I don’t like how floppy it is. I used to put a piece of cardboard on the bottom but that made the bottom too stiff and the sides too flimsy so it stuck awkwardly out from my body. Any idea how to make the bottom/walls just a little bit more sturdy so it holds its shape just a little more?

Hi!

I’m a beginner and made this little shirt for my dog who has alopecia. I wanted to get a silk jersey and they only had this color at the shop. Unfortunately, now that I see him wearing it, I absolutely hate both my design and the color lol.. It looks too similar to his naked skin.

Do you guys have any suggestions to make it cuter? Its my second piece ever so if you find some suggestions, maybe something not too difficult as I might not even be able to make it 🫣

Thank you!

I'm scheduling a time to look at a Singer 503a Rocketeer machine. The seller says it's in working condition. Table not included. I asked if they have any cams for additional stitches and they didn't think so. Since I can find these online, I'm going to check it out. I have very little experience buying machines, so I hope to approach with some borrowed wisdom!

What other questions do you recommend asking when or before seeing the machine?

Any specific things that would be a yes or no for you if considering buying this machine?

Eta: I mostly sew garments. I have a collection of slant feet from another slant foot singer model I used to use.

My mom let me take her superlock serger. I’m guessing I will need to get it serviced before I try using it, but I also need a good place to set it up. What is the minimum viable table for a serger? I assume I need something more stable than a folding table?
Thanks.

I’m hemming a French Connection mini dress into a top, and want to add long side slits. The fabric is kind of a thickkk satin poly? Irons beautifully, but can’t hold a crease to save its life.

Therefore, my first problem. I dont have a serger, the raw edge is fraying, so I have to turn it twice to create a nice finish at the bottom. I’m going to have to run it through the machine on a straight stitch because a blind hem won’t be enough to hold it down. But having it folded twice makes it kind of thick and i’m worried it will look strange. You can see how I pinned it down.

Second, how the heck can I run this through the machine without it puckering if I need this many pins to hold the darn thing down?? Again, it barely holds a crease.

Third—how would I go about sewing the side slits to reinforce them? I took out the stitches so I could separate the fabric up to where I want the slit to end, but now i’m questioning where do I go from here.

Any advice or tutorial videos would be greatly appreciated!!! I am DETERMINED!

Hello all,

I am trying to do a double stitch (hemming a t-shirt bottom) using a twin needle on my Singer Heavy Duty 4423. Using the same 100% cotton thread on the two spools and the bobbin. I did it successfully in the past, but now after 10ish months I can't anymore. I ran some tests on pieces of the t-shirt that I cut off and regulated both tension and stitches length and it was looking and running fine. Then, on the actual shirt, no more.

The fabric is moving ok, it's not that it needs a stabilizer. I'm not sure exactly what's happening, but it looks like the bottom thread accumulates in the bobbin case. At the same time the two above threads appears to intertwine before going into the two needles. In the end, the bottom stitch bunches up, the shirt is sucked in into the needle plate and all comes to a halt.

What am I doing wrong?

Hi! I currently have a Juki 8000A that I use for most of my sewing, and I absolutely love it! With some of my projects, I have found it just doesn’t have the capability to go through all the layers of fabric (ex: corset top stitching along neckline or hemming a denim dress with flat felled seams - just have a ton of skipped stitches with these).

I’ve been looking to add another machine with the capability for these tasks. I’m wondering if I should just get a heavy duty industrial machine or if it would be worth it to buy a walking foot machine? I likely will never be working on extremely thick fabrics like saddles and backpacks, but I would like a machine that is capable of handling apparel leather or suede, as well as denim.

I'm looking for a sewing pattern for a kilt. Can anyone recommend a site that you trust or has reasonable prices?

Hi folks - I've been sewing happily on my Husqvarna Emerald 118 for 5-6 years now, but as I've got better, I'm getting more frustrated with its limitations. Specifically buttonholes (very inconsistent and recently couldn't get a single decent one on a shirt), not being able to move the needle position to the right, and lack of accurate control starting/stopping. It likes to eat jersey and finer fabrics when starting off - and while I know there are techniques to minimise this, it'd be nice for things to just be smoother.

Someone shared a video of the Juki HZL F600 doing incredible buttonholes and I was pretty much sold. But it's tricky to find one to buy - I found a used one in a sewing shop in London but they are unwilling to sell it to me without going to test it in person (I'm in London but the place is 5hrs round trip for me, so not easy to get there). Does anyone have suggestions for an alternative? The price of the used one is £800 so I'd be looking in that region. I know the F300 is an option but I wanted the extra accessories included with the F600. Would love any thoughts.

Edit to add I mainly sew clothes and bags!

The pink seal on the left is sewn with a machine while the others were handsewn. I noticed that whenever I sew plushies by hand the end result appears smaller than the machine sewn ones and the seams are more wrinkly. Is this normal for handsewn projects or am I doing something wrong?

Pattern: Pocketsize seal plush by ChristmasLadyArt on Etsy

Fabric: minky