This is what I ride, it's a Keeway Matrix 50cc that I kitted to 70cc. The exhaust is not stock obviously. Top speed is about 77km/h. And yes, I need new tires, those are coming soon.

I already rode my Honda Zoomer 50cc across the Spanish Pyrenees (on-road/gravel).

I did the off-road route called the TeT in the Netherlands, Belgium, and parts of Germany and Sweden.

I did camping trips to Sweden, Belgium, Spain, and Germany.

Anyone have any tips or seen a idiot Drive up the 3000-meter off-road route?

I understand the hp curve. With only 4.2 hp at sea level, I will have 2.9 hp at the top. I will possibly have to push it part of the way.

I just keep wondering if I should, but while writing this, I kind of made up my mind, and I am going to do it

Thinking about swapping paint schemes as the current paint is faded beyond belief and peeling.

Im thinking something to match the tool box on the back so a burgundy and black paint scheme?

Its the small things im going for currently

Nut is starting to go round, don't wanna stress it out anymore. Worth soaking in oil?

I’ve had a GY6 50cc for some time now and the last time it came out the shop they barely got it to work. Shortly after it wouldn’t turn over at all and I decided to work on it myself.

All I done so far:

1. Put in a brand new rear clutch assembly
   
2. Put in a brand new CDI
   
3. Did spark plug test (Plug is good)
   
4. Changed fuel filter pod
   
5. Tinkered with the Valves as best as I could to make it the proper spacing

It cranks a lot better now , it just won’t turn over. If I hold the crank, it builds up, but never comes alive.

I don’t know what to do now and I don’t want to keep being it to the shop just for them to be like “We don’t know what’s wrong , we did the best we could.” And then have the bike run for only one week and die on me again.

If anyone else knows what could be the issue , I would love to hear it 🤧

I have been thinking about it but don’t know if it’s a good idea so I wanna know you guys opinion

I've got a 150cc gy6 that has a pod filter on it but I can't seem to get it to go past 40mph. If I'd have known at the time if doing it, I wouldn't have put a pod on it, but I threw the old airbox (that was kinda broken anyway) away months ago and it is long gone.

I've up jetted it to #130 main and #30 idle. I've tried going both up and down a notch on the main carb pin, and adjusted the air/mixture screw as needed. It only ever seems to run rich or lean and I can't find the goldilocks zone, and I can really only get 40mph out of it. Fuel delivery isn't an issue, I've made a custom gravity feed tank and make sure the lines aren't kinked. I've also put on a new drive belt and 12g rollers.

Am I better off trying to find a new carb that's built for a pod filter, a new airbox, or is there just something else I'm missing.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to decide between two scooters and I'd really appreciate advice from people who have owned or ridden both.

Option 1: SYM Cruisym 300, model year 2023, with 18,000 km. It has had the major service completed at 15,000 km by an authorized SYM dealer.

Option 2: Yamaha XMAX 300, model year 2018, with 25,000 km. I'm not sure whether the major service at around 20,000 km has been done yet.

The price difference between them is only €200. + (400-600€) if major service hasnt been done.

Which one would you choose and why?

Hi all,

I am looking at a couple used scooters from Linhai or SunL.

A LH300t (275cc) or a SunL St.croix 250.

Now I know I can close my eyes, and throw a rock and find gy6 parts.

The Linhai (if I believe a search) might be compatible with a Yamaha majesty, and the sunL might be compatible with CFMoto.

Any opinion on whether these two brands are a bad idea?

Bought a TGB Key West that barely ran for cheap. Cleaning the carb got it running like a champ again, but now I have my next issue! I'm always the first in my group up to 35mph but all my friends mopeds get up to 45 no problem while mine struggles for ever mph past 35. What's a good early mod? I'm thinking adjusting the rollers. This winter id be willing to take it apart and do the big bore kit on it if it looks within my skill set! Anybody own one these? I'm not finding much dialogue about them online. Thank you!

I couldn't think of anywhere else to post this. Scored these two jackets today along with two pairs of riding pants and now have one outfit for summer and one for winter. Picked up a nice helmet with a visor and built in shades.

My brand new belt for my 2002 Honda Reflex just came in the mail, and I got a new spanner wrench because I'm not screwing around this time.

I take my MSF course this weekend for my license, and riding the scooter has always made me cut drastically back on weed use since I like to ride it clear minded. Also ended a toxic eight year relationship since getting my scooter.

Life is good. Long live scooters.

One of my next door neighbours reversed into my Xmax, causing a bit of damage (cracked and scraped loads of panels and snapped a brake lever) which was parked on the street In front of my house, he picked the bike up then drove off (I've got it all on camera) I've reported it online, the police are terrible they've not asked for the camera footage yet, do I have to (or should I) contact my insurer, I only have 3rd party, fire and theft, I'm 2 months away from 2 years no claims and have quite high premiums and excess

I have a Yadea T5 Lithium with the following specs:
72V 30Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO₄) battery
1500W rated motor (2700W peak)
Factory top speed is limited to 50 km/h
I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to remove or increase the factory speed limiter.
Thanks

Burgman 400 - I am leaning toward the purchase of the 2nd generation (2007 - 2016) over the 3rd generation for the following reasons:

* larger underseat storage
* lower seat
* less expensive
* more protection from elements due to larger windshield and wider floorboards

However I have not ridden either so I would like to hear from people who have ridden both. My riding style is “old man who sticks to the speed limit”. I am 5’9” with a 30” inseam.

Will this wear new rollers badly? Its not that sharp could i just sand a bit and add a little grease maybe

Just picked these up on Saturday. Got one running yesterday, only for it to decide not to start today. Really at a loss at the moment so im hoping its the autochoke. Red is an 85 and Gray ir an 87 or vice versa. Im currently trying to hunt down a petcock and a 2 autochokes. Unless anyone has some info on how to bypass this?

WHAT IVE DONE SO FAR TO GRAY:

Fresh Oil

New Battery

New Spark Plug

Cleaned the Carb (twice 😅)

Replaced the Fuel Line

Crashed caused i got excited when it started and didn't fill the tires. So tires are also filled

These are my first scooters. So any tricks the community has found would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you all

Id be happy to share more info and photos and some stuff I learned along the way as well!

I'm in the market for another scooter. I used to have a Honda metropolitan and I miss it a ton.

Problem is, Honda has a big stop-sale on a lot of their small bikes and nobody has anything in stock. I would kill to buy a new metro or ruckus but that seems impossible.

Vespas are cool, but they cost a ton and aren't as easy to self maintain (specifically the GTS 310).

The zuma reminds me a lot of my Honda metro. Silent, easy oil changes, huge storage, liquid cooled.

Wondering how reliable they are. Are there any good aftermarket parts available? This will be my daily driver and will need to take a beating

London is one of the best cities in Europe to ride a scooter or moped, and one of the most confusing. You can slip through gridlock that swallows cars whole, park for a pound a day, and skip a Congestion Charge that now costs drivers £18. But the rules change at every borough boundary, the cameras are everywhere, and a bus lane that is legal on one street becomes a £160 penalty on the next. Knowing where you may and may not ride is the difference between a fast, cheap commute and a stack of fines.

I ride a small machine through a city every day, and I build Urban Rider, a navigation app for two wheels, so treat me as a useful but interested source. This is a straight guide to riding a 50cc moped, a 125cc commuter or a bigger bike across London in 2026: where you can go, what the zones cost, where to leave the bike, and how to navigate without being routed onto a road you should not be on.

Where you can and cannot ride

Bus lanes: usually yes, but check the sign

This is the single biggest advantage of two wheels in London, and the easiest place to get caught out. Motorcycles and scooters are permitted in almost all bus lanes on Transport for London red routes, the major arterial roads marked with double red lines and managed centrally by TfL. Riding the bus lane down the A40, the A13 or through junctions on the inner ring is both legal and far faster than sitting in the general traffic queue.

The catch is that the red routes are only a fraction of London's streets. The rest belong to the 33 boroughs, many of which still restrict their bus lanes to buses, taxis and pedal cycles only. A bus lane in Hackney or Lambeth may exclude you even though an almost identical one on a red route a mile away does not. The rule is simple: read the blue sign at the start of every bus lane. If it shows a motorcycle, you are allowed in; if it does not, stay out. Enforcement is by camera, and the penalty is typically £160, halved if you pay within two weeks.

Cycle lanes and Cycle Superhighways: no

It is tempting, but do not. Under Rule 140 of the Highway Code, you must not ride or park in a cycle lane marked by a solid white line during its hours of operation. London's segregated Cycleways, the blue-branded routes along the Embankment, Blackfriars and elsewhere, are strictly for pedal cycles. Riding a powered vehicle in one is an offence and, on the busy protected lanes, dangerous to cyclists. The pavement is off limits too: riding on the footway is illegal, and across Zones 1 and 2 parking on it earns an instant ticket.

Pedestrian zones and restricted streets

Central London has a growing number of timed or permanent traffic restrictions: Bank junction in the City, parts of Soho on evenings and weekends, and the low-traffic neighbourhoods (LTNs) that boroughs have rolled out across residential areas. Many LTN filters are camera-enforced and apply to motorcycles exactly as they do to cars. A scooter does not buy you a way through a bus gate or a school-street closure.

The zones: ULEZ and the Congestion Charge

London runs two separate charging schemes, and riders get a good deal on both, but they are not the same thing and it is worth being clear about which is which.

The Congestion Charge

The Congestion Charge covers central London (broadly the area inside the inner ring road, from Marylebone down to the Elephant and across to Tower Hill) and operates 07:00 to 18:00 on weekdays and 12:00 to 18:00 at weekends and on bank holidays. The daily charge for cars and vans rose to £18 from 2 January 2026. Two-wheeled motorcycles, scooters and mopeds are exempt. You do not register, you do not pay, you simply ride in. The only exception is a large motor tricycle above the size threshold, which is treated as a car. For a commuter, this exemption alone is worth thousands of pounds a year against driving.

The Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ)

The ULEZ is about pollution, not congestion, and it is far larger. Since 2023 it has covered every London borough out to the North and South Circular roads, and it operates 24 hours a day, every day except Christmas Day. Here, exemption depends on your engine, not your number of wheels. A motorcycle, scooter or moped must meet the Euro 3 emissions standard for nitrogen oxides. In practice, almost any powered two-wheeler first registered with the DVLA from July 2007 onward is compliant and pays nothing. An older, non-compliant machine pays £12.50 a day to ride anywhere inside the zone. You can check a registration on the TfL website in seconds, and there are no plans to tighten the standard before 2028. If you ride electric, the question never arises: a battery scooter is exempt from both schemes.

Parking: cheap, but the rules vary by borough

Parking is where two wheels pull decisively ahead of four. London is dotted with Solo Motorcycle Only bays, marked in white on the road surface, and they are designed for exactly your vehicle. The headline news is good: these bays remain free in around 28 of London's 33 boroughs.

Five inner boroughs now charge non-residents to use them: Westminster, Camden, Islington, Hackney and Lewisham. The fees are modest. In Westminster, the busiest of the lot, a solo motorcycle bay costs £1 for a day, £3.50 a week, £13.50 a month, £33.50 a quarter or £100 for a full year, paid through RingGo, PayByPhone or JustPark. From October 2025 the payment apps add a small transaction fee of up to 30p. Crucially, electric motorcycles park free in Westminster's bays, and the City of London publishes a map of its free motorcycle bays despite running a strict regime in other respects.

A few practical points that save money and tickets:

• Use the bays, not the car spaces. A pay-and-display car bay still expects a full car tariff even for a scooter; the dedicated motorcycle bays are the cheap option.
• Single yellow lines are usually free outside controlled hours. On most streets that means after about 18:30 in the evening and all day Sunday, but the times are on the nearest sign, so check before you walk away.
• Never park on the pavement in central London. Some outer boroughs tolerate it informally, but in Zones 1 and 2 assume it is an instant penalty.
• Anchor to the bay. Most central bays have ground anchors or stands. A bike chained to a fixed point is far harder to lift away.

Theft: the one thing every London rider worries about

Be honest with yourself about this. London has a serious problem with powered two-wheeler theft: more than 9,000 scooters, motorcycles and mopeds were stolen across the capital in the last year, according to Metropolitan Police figures. The trend is improving, with the Met reporting a fall of roughly 7 percent through 2025, but the risk is still real, and a popular 125cc commuter is a prime target.

Security pays off, and the Met's own advice is to layer it:

• Park where it is busy and overlooked. A bay on a main road with footfall and cameras is a far worse target than a quiet side street.
• Use a disc lock and a chain. A disc lock on the front brake stops a quick ride-away; a hardened chain through the rear wheel to a ground anchor stops it being lifted into a van.
• Fit a tracker and a marked alarm. Visible deterrents matter, and a tracker dramatically improves the odds of recovery.
• At home, get it off the street. A locked garage, a folding ground anchor or a motorcycle cover that hides the model all help.

Licences and what you can ride

If you are new to two wheels in the UK, the entry point is the Compulsory Basic Training (CBT), a one-day course you must complete before riding on the road, valid for two years. With a CBT you can ride a 50cc moped (and, from 17, a 125cc machine up to 11kW) on L-plates. A full AM licence, available from 16, covers mopeds limited to 28 mph (45 km/h). If you want the legal detail, we cover it in whether you need a licence for a moped, and the practical trade-offs between the two most common city machines in 50cc versus 125cc. One rule that often surprises newcomers: a moped cannot use a motorway, and we explain exactly why a moped is banned from the motorway in a separate guide.

The best way to navigate London on two wheels

Here is where a city like London exposes the weakness in ordinary navigation apps. Open Google Maps or Apple Maps on a moped and ask for a route across town, and you get a car's route: it does not know your 50cc machine cannot use the A40(M) flyover, it does not weight the bus lanes you are allowed to ride, and it times the journey for a car that can do speeds you cannot. The map is not wrong, exactly. It was simply never built for your vehicle.

This is the gap Urban Rider sets out to close, and since I make it, weigh that accordingly. Choose a scooter or moped profile and it keeps you off motorways, major trunk roads and many tunnels by default, because in the UK those machines are not allowed there. Switch to the motorcycle profile and the faster roads return, with the controls to fine-tune from there. Arrival times are modelled on real two-wheel speeds rather than the average car, which matters when a cross-town trip swings between a clear bus lane and a jammed junction.

On the move, the navigation view stays glanceable, showing just the next instruction, the distance and your speed, which is all you should be reading at a glance on a handlebar mount, a point I make at length in using phone navigation on two wheels. Your next turn also appears on Apple Watch, so the phone can stay clamped to the bars. The app saves your parking location, useful when you have squeezed into a bay three streets from your destination, and for electric riders it surfaces charging points along the route.

The honest caveats: Urban Rider is younger and smaller than the giants, it is available on both iOS and Android with the Android app now live on Google Play, and it will not magically know every borough's latest bus-lane sign. No app does; the sign on the post is always the final word. If you are weighing up the alternatives, I compared the main contenders in our guide to the best scooter and moped navigation apps.

A quick reference for London riders

Ridden with a little local knowledge, London rewards two wheels more than almost any other major city: cheaper than a car, faster than the Tube on the right day, and genuinely fun once you know the lanes. Learn the signs, respect the cameras, lock the bike properly, and let a navigation app that understands your vehicle handle the rest.

Could I use RTV on the side cover for this engine? I bought the wrong gasket and can’t find one for this bike.

Hand-Embroidery + Watercolor