So, I bought both an ultra matte varnish and a satin varnish, and I've been testing them out.

I used the ultra matte varnish on the blue ring, and it has a bit of that chalky, grainy finish. The blue and pink ring has the satin varnish, and I actually like it a lot. However, on the open hand (please ignore the glitter, it was an experiment that failed miserably. If you have any tips for glitter, I'd love to hear them!), the satin varnish ended up being much shinier and noticeably changed the color. The hand on the left hasn't been varnished.

So my question is: if I switch to a regular matte varnish instead of an ultra matte one, is it likely to be less chalky, or is that just an inherent characteristic of matte varnishes?

Edit: I use Vallejo Satin and AK ultramatte. Both Apply with brush no thinning.

I doubt there's some good files of the dragons' models anywhere, at least I didn't find any. But I would very happily pay a few bucks to somebody who could make me usable, paintable little figures of dragons from this game. Having them sit on my shelf would help the pain of losing that game many years ago at least a little bit, some sort of catharsis to me.

But sadly, I have literally 0 idea what to do and 0 skill in 3D modelling. I do have access to some printers so at least there's that. But I need to get those files.

Thanks everyone <3

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Hi everyone, I hope you can help me figure out what’s going wrong. At the moment, around 75% of my prints fail and end up looking like this, while the rest print perfectly fine. The other models on the build plate remain stuck to the FEP.

I’m honestly getting really frustrated. I’ve included pictures of my printer settings as well. I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

The FEP is about two weeks old and has barely been used, and I have just re-levelled the build plate.

Printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra

Resin: Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 Pro

Slicer: Chitubox 1.3.0.

Been playing Black Flag Resynced, so had to print this brilliant homage to the main character from VS3D.

The detail on this one is spot on, and it went together beautifully from start to finish.
Printed on my ELEGOO resin machines.

Anyone else been playing it?

I'm being offered 2 Elegoo Saturn 1s for $50 each or a Elegoo mars pro for $100. Which one should i pick up?

Grey resin doesn't hide anything. That's the point.

Before any paint goes on, the print tells you whether the sculpt holds up. Every surface decision — the fabric folds, the gear straps, the face detail — has to work in monochrome, under direct light, with no color to guide the eye. This is the moment where the work either stands or doesn't.

We printed the Rust Captain in two scales: 32mm for the tabletop, 75mm to push the detail ceiling and verify how far the sculpt can go. The difference between scales is not just size — it's a completely different set of priorities. At 32mm you're designing for silhouette and readability across a table. At 75mm you're designing for the painter who will spend hours on a single face. Both versions came from the same ZBrush file, but they required different passes to get right.

Let's see if you like how they look at the different scales.
It is printed on the anicubyc photon S !!!

Here is my version of the Ogre bust from BS-Sculpt.

Another great bust sculpt from Bulat, really love painting his creations. I tried to do a lot more blending on this guy and concentrated a lot on the face, which I was pleased with the result, great fun and onto the next bust...

I’ve been trying to figure out what the actual best practice is for working with resin miniatures because I’ve seen so much conflicting advice online. For context, I mostly build resin miniatures from my local hobby store, along with some resin recasts I’ve bought online. Before doing any cleanup, I wash the parts in warm water with a little dish soap and gently scrub them with a toothbrush.

My concern is the cleanup stage. I have to cut off casting blocks, trim flash, and do a bit of sanding. Most of the sanding only lasts a few seconds here and there, but I’ll admit that sometimes I forget to put on a mask before making a few cuts or sanding something briefly.

This is where I’m confused because I’ve read completely different recommendations. Some people say a KN95 or N95 is perfectly adequate, while others insist you need a proper half-face respirator with P100 filters. Some say a few seconds of sanding isn’t worth worrying about, while others treat any amount of dry sanding as a serious hazard. I’ve also seen people recommend wet sanding everything, vacuuming the workspace immediately afterward with a HEPA vacuum, wiping down surfaces, and making sure no pets are ever in the room while you’re working.

So what is the current consensus? What mask should I actually be wearing when cutting and sanding resin miniatures? Is a KN95 enough, or should I invest in a respirator with P100 filters? Is a few seconds of dry sanding realistically a significant exposure, or is the risk mainly from repeated long-term hobby sessions? How important are practices like wet sanding, HEPA vacuuming, and keeping pets out of the room? If you’ve been building resin kits for years, what does your own workflow look like?

I’m not looking to cut corners—I just want to separate evidence-based safety practices from hobby myths. Thanks!

Made my first Dice Tower. I added slots to put in LED tealights, so it doubles as a night lamp.

My niece is really into dinosaurs, so used scutes of Stegosaurus and skull of a T-rex. I am quite happy with how it turned out.

Hi, I'm working on a modular dungeon set for 3D printing.

I've spent the last few months trying to get the quality to a point where I'm happy with it, and I'm finally getting close to releasing it. While exporting the final files, though, I ran into a problem. I'm not sure what file size people actually consider reasonable.

I decimate the high-poly ZBrush files to around 50%, but each wall still ends up being around 200 MB. My concern is that downloading a ZIP that's 1–2 GB and then loading those files into a slicer might be annoying for people. On the other hand, every extra bit of decimation means losing more detail.

So I'm curious: at what point do you think a file is just too big? How much detail would you be willing to sacrifice to get smaller file sizes?

If anyone's interested, I'm planning to release the first pack on the major STL marketplaces around August 4. The whole first pack will be free. I also attached a few renders so the post can get some attention and you can see the level of detail.

Been trying to find commoners of varying races to use in dnd. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Sorry if this question has been asked already but I keep seeing everything and its opposite when making researches on this topic.

Basically, I'm broke and into warhammer so I wanted to get into 3d printing but resin is out of the equation because of basically every problem of resin. So that leaves FDM but, the results I've seen are very varied. Some seemed good and some looked like utter garbage.

So my real question is : would these minis be good in fdm ? - 1k Hijos del Pulvo as Thousand Sons proxy - dakkadakka space knight battle squad for Dark Angels proxy

If you have pictures of those painted or similar options I would also really appreciate it

Also a few shots of minis!

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-halo-fleet-battles-valiant-class-super-heavy-cruiser-457001

For thirty years he forged and sharpened swords for other men. They left with glory; he stayed behind with the coin and the experience. Night after night, he worked on something no one had commissioned. An old forge hood became a helmet. A heavy gauntlet was built with one purpose: to ruin someone's day. One day, the time came to find out what his work was really worth.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-nutshell-atelier-dragonic-girl-nsfw-302889

Does anyone know where I can find Geppettin files? I feel like I’ve looked everywhere and can’t seem to find any.

Not exactly my normal grimdark wheelhouse, but I’m pretty pleased with how this leggy stompy boi sculpt has worked out.

I’ve designed it for resin printers, but its broken down into smaller posable sections, so can be easily printed on most printer sizes.

I’ve also looked at an FDM version, but I’ve not been happy with the results so far.

Looking forward to hear what you guys and girls think.

I have recently picked up painting minis. I have printed up a few via SLA resin printing. I was just wondering if anybody happened to have a resource where I can find more warhammer like minis to practice with not looking for fancy ones just the basics to learn to paint.

One of the most powerfull fractions during the medieval times where the medieval city of Venice and other Italian cities. These did supply crusaders with transport and did keep the waters open from pirates. They also did trade with Northern Europe.

Comes with hull and everything else are separate pieces, so masts can be adjusted, cargo bay open etc.

Unsupported

If interested, it is available here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-medieval-venetian-trade-warship-201967

Here is my version of the Barbarian from Vox Studios.

Enjoyed painting this, even though my hands are really shaky at the moment, but, hey ho, life goes on lol. I wanted a paler skin on him and blondish hair, but I think it cam a bit too yellowy, but glad to finish him and really enjoyed it.