Here is my version of the Dwarf bust from BS-Sculpt.

Great sculpt and great fun to paint, and painted entirely on stream. A little bit more subdued on this one but I think he turned out ok, especially the hair.

I still remember my 12 years old self opening a blister pack of metal LOTR Uruks with a battering ram some 20+ years ago.
I couldn’t resist trying to recreate the experience with my custom bard here, so I gave it go, working purely of my memory of the blisters, I avoided looking them up online during the design process. I’m pretty happy with the result, but what do you guys think? Worth it for physical printed minis?

Built it by 3D printing a master buck for the clear plastic part, then thermo forming it with my Mayku Formbox in clear petg, sourcing some foam sheet from a local supplier, printing the cardboard at a local print shop, then laser cutting the cardboard and the foam on my Elegoo laser cutter. First time I used all of my tools for a single project! Took about 2-3 prototypes to get right.

Bonus pic of the mini all painted at the end, Saevin the bard from my Threads of Munvirr custom IP.

From the bloodstone valley collection, printed on Heygears Reflex RS Turbo with Heygears PAF10 resin.

I really want to print some SM Devastators. I remember the purple site used to have some pieces that fit perfectly, but i see that its no longer available there.

This is specifically the backpack, the belt feed and heavy gun.

Anyone who has these, and would be willing to share? Or know of a place to get them?

just finished up cleaning these resin keycaps. normally my hand is dead after sanding down 3D print supports, but i tried using this tiny pen-sized rotary tool from the hoto snapbloq setup and its night and day.

I originally bought this modular kit when i was hunting for the best small electric screwdriver for pc building ikea desk setups. i just wanted a tiny driver that would not strip board mounts or crack acrylic cases.

The rotary attachment is incredibly light compared to my old corded dremel tool that used to shake my hand raw. the only real catch is the battery life on the rotary if you push it hard at max RPM, but for quick cleanups on keycaps at my desk its perfect.

​Decided to make a heroic scale Panzer III after an unusually successful round with one in War Thunder. After about 3 months of designing, test prints, and iteration, I've finally taken one all the way to a finished paint job!

​Design & Scaling:
I tried to keep the design as proportionate as possible while maintaining the identifying features of the Panzer III and giving it that proper grimdark Imperial Guard aesthetic. It's scaled slightly shorter than a Leman Russ, but I've been calling it the "Panzer Russ" from the beginning. (Swipe to see it next to a Rogal Dorn proxy for scale).

​Painting & Techniques:
I tried a bunch of new techniques on this project:

• ​Rust textures using Army Painter
• ​Oil streaks & weathering
• ​AK Pigments/Powders
• ​3D printed custom stencil (using a Blender boolean) for the turret numbers

​The sitting Kriegsmen on the hull were pretty fun to paint too! Still working on my brush handling and paint thinning for fine infantry details, but they look great for tank scale.

Hope you all like it!

I’ve been working on this one for a while and finally got it ready for printing. The model is split into 15 parts to make it easier to print and assemble, and I’ve already test-printed it on a Bambu Lab A1.

I also made two alternative parts — an alternative hatch and an alternative gun, so you can customize the look a bit.

One of my favorite details is the ratchet joint in the turret. It gives the turret a really satisfying click-click when you rotate it. 😄

What do you guys think? In

"Dragon Knights! Your Valkyrie has joined you! Hold to your courage, hold to your wit! For Utgar has blessed and shielded this host with divine purpose! For the one true Valkyrie, Utgar! Advance!"
- Runa.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808258/makes

Here is my version of the 2nd Ogre bust from BS-Sculpt.

Had so much fun painting this guy, really wanted to try a 2-tone skintone on him and I was really pleased with the result, great sculpt again from Bulat and will paint many more of his busts.

Probably a common request, but I am looking for 24 resin figures, 1/72 scale for a cowboy wargaming group. There are 12 files so I need each run twice. Please message me with a rough cost estimate. Thank you.

So, I bought both an ultra matte varnish and a satin varnish, and I've been testing them out.

I used the ultra matte varnish on the blue ring, and it has a bit of that chalky, grainy finish. The blue and pink ring has the satin varnish, and I actually like it a lot. However, on the open hand (please ignore the glitter, it was an experiment that failed miserably. If you have any tips for glitter, I'd love to hear them!), the satin varnish ended up being much shinier and noticeably changed the color. The hand on the left hasn't been varnished.

So my question is: if I switch to a regular matte varnish instead of an ultra matte one, is it likely to be less chalky, or is that just an inherent characteristic of matte varnishes?

Edit: I use Vallejo Satin and AK ultramatte. Both Apply with brush no thinning.

I'm being offered 2 Elegoo Saturn 1s for $50 each or a Elegoo mars pro for $100. Which one should i pick up?

​

Hi everyone, I hope you can help me figure out what’s going wrong. At the moment, around 75% of my prints fail and end up looking like this, while the rest print perfectly fine. The other models on the build plate remain stuck to the FEP.

I’m honestly getting really frustrated. I’ve included pictures of my printer settings as well. I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

The FEP is about two weeks old and has barely been used, and I have just re-levelled the build plate.

Printer: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra

Resin: Elegoo ABS-Like 3.0 Pro

Slicer: Chitubox 1.3.0.

I doubt there's some good files of the dragons' models anywhere, at least I didn't find any. But I would very happily pay a few bucks to somebody who could make me usable, paintable little figures of dragons from this game. Having them sit on my shelf would help the pain of losing that game many years ago at least a little bit, some sort of catharsis to me.

But sadly, I have literally 0 idea what to do and 0 skill in 3D modelling. I do have access to some printers so at least there's that. But I need to get those files.

Thanks everyone <3

Grey resin doesn't hide anything. That's the point.

Before any paint goes on, the print tells you whether the sculpt holds up. Every surface decision — the fabric folds, the gear straps, the face detail — has to work in monochrome, under direct light, with no color to guide the eye. This is the moment where the work either stands or doesn't.

We printed the Rust Captain in two scales: 32mm for the tabletop, 75mm to push the detail ceiling and verify how far the sculpt can go. The difference between scales is not just size — it's a completely different set of priorities. At 32mm you're designing for silhouette and readability across a table. At 75mm you're designing for the painter who will spend hours on a single face. Both versions came from the same ZBrush file, but they required different passes to get right.

Let's see if you like how they look at the different scales.
It is printed on the anicubyc photon S !!!

Been playing Black Flag Resynced, so had to print this brilliant homage to the main character from VS3D.

The detail on this one is spot on, and it went together beautifully from start to finish.
Printed on my ELEGOO resin machines.

Anyone else been playing it?

Hi, I'm working on a modular dungeon set for 3D printing.

I've spent the last few months trying to get the quality to a point where I'm happy with it, and I'm finally getting close to releasing it. While exporting the final files, though, I ran into a problem. I'm not sure what file size people actually consider reasonable.

I decimate the high-poly ZBrush files to around 50%, but each wall still ends up being around 200 MB. My concern is that downloading a ZIP that's 1–2 GB and then loading those files into a slicer might be annoying for people. On the other hand, every extra bit of decimation means losing more detail.

So I'm curious: at what point do you think a file is just too big? How much detail would you be willing to sacrifice to get smaller file sizes?

If anyone's interested, I'm planning to release the first pack on the major STL marketplaces around August 4. The whole first pack will be free. I also attached a few renders so the post can get some attention and you can see the level of detail.

Been trying to find commoners of varying races to use in dnd. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-nutshell-atelier-dragonic-girl-nsfw-302889

I’ve been trying to figure out what the actual best practice is for working with resin miniatures because I’ve seen so much conflicting advice online. For context, I mostly build resin miniatures from my local hobby store, along with some resin recasts I’ve bought online. Before doing any cleanup, I wash the parts in warm water with a little dish soap and gently scrub them with a toothbrush.

My concern is the cleanup stage. I have to cut off casting blocks, trim flash, and do a bit of sanding. Most of the sanding only lasts a few seconds here and there, but I’ll admit that sometimes I forget to put on a mask before making a few cuts or sanding something briefly.

This is where I’m confused because I’ve read completely different recommendations. Some people say a KN95 or N95 is perfectly adequate, while others insist you need a proper half-face respirator with P100 filters. Some say a few seconds of sanding isn’t worth worrying about, while others treat any amount of dry sanding as a serious hazard. I’ve also seen people recommend wet sanding everything, vacuuming the workspace immediately afterward with a HEPA vacuum, wiping down surfaces, and making sure no pets are ever in the room while you’re working.

So what is the current consensus? What mask should I actually be wearing when cutting and sanding resin miniatures? Is a KN95 enough, or should I invest in a respirator with P100 filters? Is a few seconds of dry sanding realistically a significant exposure, or is the risk mainly from repeated long-term hobby sessions? How important are practices like wet sanding, HEPA vacuuming, and keeping pets out of the room? If you’ve been building resin kits for years, what does your own workflow look like?

I’m not looking to cut corners—I just want to separate evidence-based safety practices from hobby myths. Thanks!

Sorry if this question has been asked already but I keep seeing everything and its opposite when making researches on this topic.

Basically, I'm broke and into warhammer so I wanted to get into 3d printing but resin is out of the equation because of basically every problem of resin. So that leaves FDM but, the results I've seen are very varied. Some seemed good and some looked like utter garbage.

So my real question is : would these minis be good in fdm ? - 1k Hijos del Pulvo as Thousand Sons proxy - dakkadakka space knight battle squad for Dark Angels proxy

If you have pictures of those painted or similar options I would also really appreciate it