here’s my 2003 palmer red JDM evo 8.

just blew the motor and she’s getting a 2.2 stroker package

Installed an aftermarket BOV on my 2012 Evo X, and now the car idles rough, shakes, and sometimes stalls when the AC is on. The stock BOV works perfectly with no issues. The aftermarket BOV is much louder (vent-to-atmosphere).
Anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix it?

Hello! Looking to buy a tactrix cable for my 05 Evo VIII. Or if anyone is in the Chicagoland area where I can borrow one. Please and thank you.

Hey reddit , thinking of selling my clean title 2015 evo X gsr, has just under 65k miles and is bone stock. Has the audio package as well. Inside is clean just some wear and tear on driver seat , will be getting seats steam cleaned soon. Has some curb rash on wheels and a small dent on trunk unfortunately from my tool box. Just curious on what its worth any info will help thanks.

Still has some swirls but not bad for 20 year car!

Hey guys, i was just wondering how much I can sell my 2015 Final Edition with 59k miles clean title

Here are the mods

ETS intake

GFB bov

Maperformance intercooler piping

MAPERFORMANCE oil catch can

MAP Exhaust manifold

Wide mouth downpipe

Megan racing coils

Black rpf 1s

Continential dsw06 all seasons 265/35/18 (5k miles)

Clutch+flywheel (3k miles)

Aluminum clutch master cylinder

Sheepy Intercooler 3.5inch

Wk short shifter

Aem boost and afr gauges

Hey r/mitsubishievolution! Not sure if these are allowed but I’m in the market for an 8/9/X after my baby got rear ended. Looking for a clean car around 60 - 100k miles with preferably low mods. If anyone has a 6 spd CT9A that earns bonus points!

I’m moving to East Anglia, England from Virginia soon and I’m on the fence about taking the Evo.
It’s not a daily at all and is more of a “track”/weekend car.

All of my boys that are out there already are trying to convince me to bring it but there isn’t a speck of rust on this car and I want to keep it that way lol.

It’s open dump/no cats and flex fuel tuned.
Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. (Are emission laws strict? Roads really bad? Locals hate modified vehicles?)

Thanks in advance

I meant to take it at exactly 100k but forgot, just thought I would share

Hi

Can some please show me or post a pic of the rear jacking point on the Evo 4 - 6 please ?

Is it the rear tow bracket or close to the rear diff ?

A actual pic will really help please ?

Thnx

Yeah i know, stupid. But if i money shifted and hit 8200/300 ish rpm for half a second and immediately pushed in the clutch, no new noises idles perfectly pulls just as hard. What are the chances im fine for this one off time? 4b11t.

I got a Mitsubishi evolution 8 with a MR574777 X6T03173 Ballast.
This Xenon website shows other part numbers that are compatible.

Mitsubishi Electric part number:
MR574777
X6T03173

Other part numbers:
Acura/Honda: 33119-S2A-J01
Acura/Honda: 33144-S0K-A01
Acura/Honda: DLB351D12-4

This photo is a comparison of the 33119-S2A-J01 ballast on ebay and my MR574777 ballast. I know they differ but does anyone know if it would still work?

I'm looking to sell my Evo VI if anyone is in the market

Engine rebuilt in 2020 (receipts available):
-Manley rods & pistons
-ARP head & main studs
-ACL bearings
-New timing belt, oil pump, water pump

Upgrades:
-Garrett GTX3071R Gen 2 turbo
-GFB 44mm wastegate
-FIC 1000cc injectors
-AEM fuel rail
-STM intercooler piping
-COP ignition conversion
-3” turbo-back exhaust (with cat/resonator)
-HKS SSQV (recirculated)
Tuned by Reza at Dynotune Racing (Toronto) – dyno sheet and video available.
Suspension / Brakes
-Ceika coilovers
-Brembo brakes
-Polyurethane bushings
-18” OZ Rally wheels
Interior / Misc
-JVC head unit (currently disconnected due to parasitic draw)
-Kicker subwoofer
-AEM gauges (boost, oil pressure, AFR)
-Momo shift knob
Interior is complete and in good condition overall. Front seats show typical wear for age.

Known flaws
-Original Reims Blue paint – some chips and wear consistent with age
-AYC system removed due to pump leak (common issue; RS diff swap option)
-Has a puff of smoke on start up which goes away in a second. Have leakdown and compression test results from 07/14 which are all good. Have spoken to 2 engine builders about it and they believe its due to the rings used when motor was built

Great option for someone looking for a fast, usable car without needing to build one from scratch.

Located in Seattle. Shipping can be arranged.

Asking 30k OBO.

Open to trades for an 8 or 9. I already have an X.

Prefer Graphite Grey. Will add cash on top for the right car

Hello all, I am currently trying to figure out why a scanner won’t communicate with the ECU. While checking the fuses under the dash, I noticed this random connector that was spliced into the factory wires? Anyone know what this could be for or what the factory wires are for? There are two blue and two white wires with one of the blue wires going to the red wire of the connector and the other three just cut off in the tape. Whoever did this was kinda lazy it looks like.

Also, if anyone knows why the OBD port won’t communicate let me know. I’ve checked all fuses and pins, it has power and the CAN pins are working. None of the pins are bent or pushed in either. I haven’t tried a power reset yet since I don’t have a scanner on hand but that was my next step.

removed my fuel filler neck guard to clean it and noticed more rust than Id like on the right leg. How bad is this? Should I budget for a rear leg replacement in the future? Also included a picture of my left leg.

Un peu de couleurs dans ce monde tout gris !

Good afternoon,

Just looking for advice.. I came across some guy through work and he was showing me his garage. He has a lot of cars with low mileage, Dodge Viper, Porsches etc.. all saran wrapped under car covers. He lifted up one of the covers and underneath was a 2002 Evo, i didnt really get to look at it and briefly talked to him about it he said it had approximately 100 miles.. how much would you pay for something like that? He told me to swing by after work and we could talk about prices.

HI, I'm missing some pieces of my car and trying to reproduce them 😅 can anyone with healthy Evo 4-6 take a photo of rear end of a sill inside rear wheel well please?

Hello everyone, today I want to bring up the topic of bleeding the ACD AYC system.
People often write to me asking for help to write a manual for bleeding the system without using special equipment. I decided to post an instruction on bleeding by hanging the car on a lift.
Important note
If when you turn on the ignition, the ACD AYC error (4wd error) lights up immediately, the bleeding procedure will not help you, do not waste your time and proceed directly to diagnosing the fault codes.

System Bleeding Instructions

Preparatory stage:

1. Install the pump, connect all pipes and hoses.
   
2. Fill the reservoir with hydraulic fluid.
   
3. Important: Do not close the reservoir cap; leave it open.
   
4. Wait 15 minutes.

Stage 1: ACD transfer case bleeding

1. Fully unscrew the bleed nipple.
   
2. Engage second gear.
   
3. Start the engine.
   
4. Begin raising the engine speed from 2000 to 5000 rpm, while simultaneously turning the steering wheel from full left lock to full right lock and back.
   
5. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir: do not let it run dry, top up in time.
   
6. Continue flushing the system until a steady stream of fluid without air bubbles comes out of the nipple (initially it may spurt out in bursts).
   
7. As soon as a steady stream appears, screw the nipple back in.

Stage 2: AYC bleeding

1. The bleeding procedure is similar, but involves two circuits (left and right bleed nipples).
   
2. Steps:
   · Turn the steering wheel to the left and unscrew the right bleed nipple.
   · Turn the steering wheel to the right and unscrew the left bleed nipple.
   
3. In each position, repeat the procedure: rev the engine in second gear, monitor the fluid level and wait until all air is expelled.