Polymaker ASA on a flashforge Adventure 5 pro (an enclosed printer)

I used a z-offset (I think that's the name) of 0.25, 95 C build plate but other than that generic setting in Orca.

I am not sure the specific printer settings that are relevant to this problem, so I don't know what else to write. (I'm new to printing)

For context I am new to printing and want to paint scale figures so I downloaded the stl files for the character with supports (pre made and hollowed) but the obiects are falling off into the resin vat.

I haven't touched my setting that much except for trying to fix a previous issue of the base lifting, I am using;

Gktwo on UniFormation slicer

Elegoo ABS like 3.0 pro

So far the right one, in the slicer, is printing fine and the left one nas a disc fall off that I've iust found in the vat + I can see upor editing this that some of my supports are not connectedto eachother/ snapped?. Also when the plate lifts up it makes a weird noise. I'm not sure how to describe it besides a deep subtle clunky noise sometimes.

I'm not sure on what steps to take but I set the z axis to be slower lifting as I had an issue iust before with the base coming off the printing plate- this seemed to work for the base but not for the current issue.

Help would be greatly appreciated thank you !

Hi everyone, I hope you can help me figure out what’s going wrong. At the moment, around 75% of my prints fail and end up looking like this, while the rest print perfectly fine. The other models on the build plate remain stuck to the FEP.

I’m honestly getting really frustrated. I’ve included pictures of my printer settings as well. I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

The FEP is about two weeks old and has barely been used, and I have just re-levelled the build plate.

Edit: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra Elegoo ABS-like 3.0 Pro Resin Chitubox 1.3.0

I'm deep into my multiboard project using the 8x8 stl file found here and have run into a brick wall. The first 27 boards printed without issue, but then I changed filament and all hell broke loose.

My setup:

• Prusa Core One+ w/ satin sheet
• Filament for first 27 boards - Bambu Charcoal Matte PLA
• Filament in use now - Sunlu High Speed Matte PLA
• Filament dry to below 15% RH using this dryer.
• Slicer: PrusaSlicer

I don't appear to be having first layer adhesion issues as the first layers stick fine. Sometimes the print runs normally for a dozen layers, sometimes it goes spaghetti after the first layer.

When I first ran into issues with the Sunlu filament, it clogged my .4mm high flow brass nozzle, so I switched to a hardened .4mm non-high flow nozzle. Issues continued. I've gone through an entire roll of filament playing with settings.

What I've done:

• Printed with 2 and 3 perimeter shells (MB recommends 3)
• Nozzle temp - I've tried prints every 5 degrees from 210 to 235.
• Bed temp - 60C
• Fans - I've run fans at the default full speed and down to 50% speed.
• Layer height - attempted at 0.2 and 0.15
• Cleaned the plate.
• Said kind words to the machine.
• Dried the filament again at 50C for 8 hours.
• Opened and rotated the idler to clear out dust.
• Cold pull after every failed print.
• Printed a smaller multiboard (1/4 the size).
• Glared at the machine while it was running.
• Increased and decreased the retraction length, but mostly used default 0.7mm.
• Printed at 170mm/s and 120 mm/s.
• Run the onboard axis recalibration tools.
• Verified belt tension.

I'm at my whits end. Any advice?

I designed an AirTag case for use on large rubber bands, we use these bands on boxes as they’re packed and the AirTag is used incase one is mistakenly dropped in a box and packed.
The prints are near perfect, except on every one I have to clean up these strings left in the female side of the threads. Structurally the threads are perfect and once I clean them up the cap goes on great. If I only had to print a few I wouldn’t care, but I’m going to end up printing over 40 of these.
I’m printing on a Bamboo H2D, using Bamboo brand PETG basic with the default print settings in Bamboo Studios for PETG.

I was having bad pillowing issues a while ago and so i took everyone's advice and recalibrated with filament fresh out of the drier and the result was acceptable (that's the small print in the last photo). However, there was still some rough spots so i decided to try my next print with the ironing flow a bit and suddenly i got this crazy stringing. It seems extreme for the adjustment u made (bumped ironing flow to 20% from 10%)

I'm just trying to get a clean, professional looking top surface. I'm using Orca slicer, here's all the print settings used that aren't defaults:
Top surface line width .3mm
Ironing flow 20%
Top shell layers 8
Top shell thickness 1.6mm
Bottom shell layers 6
Bottom shell thickness 1mm
Bottom surface pattern concentric
Sparse infill density 30%

Filament is Bambu PLA Basic gray calibrated with orca. Here's the settings I've changed on that:
Nozzle temp: 210-220
Flow ratio: 1
Pressure advance: .025
Max volumetric speed: 100mm3/s

I'm at my wit's end and i feel like running through the calibrations blindly again will just be wasting plastic

I'm using SUNLU PLA+ with standard settings on an A1 mini. Most prints are quite good but broad flat surfaces tend to get this uneven finish.

im new to the hobby and have been having issues with printing silk pla in my first few prints. ive read that printing a calibration test such as this temp + speed tower can help me determine the ideal print settings. But even during this calibration print i get this same issue where the part doesnt adhere to the previous layer properly / gets knocked off by the nozzle? i did notice my nozzle hitting the print (very rare, only saw a handful of times where it got caught).

Would appreciate some help in identifying if this is a printer calibration issue / slicer settings etc, and how to fix it.

*The rules ask me to post printer settings but since this print has varying temps and speeds, my apologies, im not sure what i should be showing specifically. Hence i have included the makerworld link of the print im running below. i downloaded the 3mf file under [download STL/CAD] files as stated in the instructions to get the custom Gcodes for the print.

https://makerworld.com/models/666596?appSharePlatform=copy

(Preference this by saying, I can see in this case it was support towers that failed and stringing occurred. But it happened on other prints as well.)

Why does ASA break up so much into these little noodle pellets? Is it a normal thing with ASA and it’s naturally stringy/grippy?

ASA PRINTING AT (240°c low end- 280°c high end) I think it settles at 280°c ish

Bed temp 100°c

Done on the Bambu X2D so it is a heated enclosed chamber.

Printer : elegoo Neptune 4 max

Slicer : elegoo slicer

Material : sunlu petg

Settings : all standard

Layer : 0.24

Walls : 4

Top layers : 6

Infill : 7.5% gyroid

Howdy All,

I have a Bambu Lab P2S with AMS pro. I am attempting to print something with overhangs.
I bought support material from Bambu Labs for the overhanging regions. They supports seem to be separating from the build plate and causing the overhang to warp upwards. I'm getting distortion patterns on the top finished surface as a result and my mating pieces don't mate properly.

At first I thought it was humidity (it was hovering around 30%) so I cranked up the AMS and got it down to 20%. Didn't help. I cleaned the build plate. I added a few extra top layers to the support material - no help. Do I need to improve the support adhesion to the build plate?

What am I doing wrong? I've ruined 3 large prints thus far.

Thanks in advance!

Specs:

• Bambu Lab P2S with AMS Pro
• Bambu Studio Slicer
• Bambu Lab White & Black Matt PLA & Bambu Lab Support Filament (PLA)
• Standard Nozzle temp for Bambu Lab PLA (190 to 240 Deg C) and bed temperature of 40 Deg C (Cool Plate SuperTack).
• Default print speeds - Outer wall print speed 60mm/s, Inner wall 150 mm/s. 200 mm/s infill. 150 mm/s Top surface. Slow down for overhangs turned on - default speeds selected. Support 150 mm/s. Support Interface 80 mm/s

I’m scaling some power pads before I use precious tpu and noticed whenever I get to that portion and the top bit there’s that weird texture.

I’ve slowed down the outer walls and increased cooling with no avail

I’m printing with add ad5m with sunlu pla at 210 in orca flashforge

Hi! I’m using the Bambulab A1 mini with PLA

While its printing, i noticed that the surface got a bit rough, there’s even a bit of string poking out, can some one help me identify what’s the problem and what’s causing it?

After seeing this i have lower my printing speed to 50% ( already set it to 500 in the slicer)

My nozzle temp is at 210

Dried my filament before printing and i also cleaned the print bed

Im using the 0.08mm setting in bambulab, but i set it to be at 0.09

The same gap exists in this print no matter the orientation on the print bed. I reloaded the STL and now the gap is in the middle. It's like the initial line won't complete all the way. I did a full calibration, cleaned bed, flow calibration. What am I missing? Thanks.

On an ender 3 pro. I’ve tightened the X/Y belts to the best of my ability where they both make a low/medium tone noise when plucked, and cleaned/greased the z screw a few weeks ago. I am running the wall passes at 20mm/s with outer walls printing first. I can’t figure out how to get this smoother and not have the irregular marks as it transitions from layer to layer.

Settings info below.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Slicer: Cura
Filament material & brand: ELEGOO PLA+
Nozzle temp = 200°C
Bed temp = 60°C
Print speed: walls x3 at 20mm/s, support at 70mm/s prints after walls.
Retraction settings: 4mm at 45mm/s

It does seem like the irregular patterns aren’t the same on the front and back surfaces, which I feels like rules out the z screw. Makes me think x/y belts possible, or a third option I haven’t thought of.

I have properly calibrated both E-steps and per-filament flow for this printer.

I also have all the v-wheels aligned so they hold enough to grasp the extrusion with no play but can be turned with light-to-moderate force still.

If it was Z-axis related, you’d think I would see this everywhere on the layer right? It does seem the same layer noise pattern does *not* appear on both the front and back face of the same part at the same layer? I can see a notable band pattern across a few layers on the front of this part but if I follow that layer to the back, I don’t see that same band pattern - either negative or positive. Which makes me think it likely may not be Z ? My logic tells me if Z was the issue, the same squished or stretched band appearance would appear throughout the whole layer. But I trust any advice you all have, I’m still stumped.

Anyone have any advice?

Hey guys!
Im trying to find out what settings to change to get rid of the yellow lines where the top changes angles and the bottom part of the model.
When i printed it there was these obvious black lines where the yellow lines show in the slicer.
What setting should i change to get rid of the yellow lines?

Thanks! (Using BambuStudio)

Using stock settings for PLA settings

Been trying to fix the stringing for a while and I noticed that my best success, at least with this test, has been the nozzle at 200 with 2mm recreation at 40mm/s. That seems like a really low temp and a really high retraction, no?

Neptune 4 pro. Was dried for 8 hours.

Bambu Lab A1 0.4mm nozzel

Guys, help me out.

I have very hard time getting decent top surface. I've already changed from ABS to ASA by spectrum, It helped, but it's still not ideal. Flow rate and dynamics are already calibrated.

Bambu studio

Top surface line width :0.6mm

Top shell layers: 6

Top shell thickness: 1.5mm

Top surface speed: 120mm/s

Any ideas? 🙏🏻

Getting this y shifting

Ender 3 v2

Klipper

Orca

.4

Pla 200

Bed 60

What ive done

Tighten the belt

Replace the motor

Slowed print speed down

Sounds

A harsh vibration sound from the motor

I could replace the belts as Ive had the printer in 2019

Hello everyone,

I have been trying to calibrate / tune my prints for weeks now. I decided to stick with Creality Hyper after testing many filaments and I have started the process of calibrating _many many_ times the filament.

I have done temperature, MVS, PA, flow ratio and retraction. In the pictures you can see there is stringing (which does not happen in any of the calibration tests) and that there are many gaps on both the bottom layer (near the magnet holes) and on the top surface.

I thought it was a flow ratio issue (under extrusion), so I have re-run YOLO perfectionist 2 times but honestly I could not move away from the current settings that much.

I am at a loss at this point. Maybe it has to do with infill gaps, wall generation, anything else?

Any pointer is appreciated! Thanks!

Settings:

• Printer Model: Bambu X1C
• Slicer used: OrcaSlicer 2.4.2
• Filament material and brand: Creality Hyper PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature: 210 nozzle, 40 bed (cool textured)
• Print Speed: 29.7 MVS, speed 400mm/s, acceleration 6000mm/s^2
• Retraction settings: 0.6mm
• MVS: 29.7 mm^3/s
• Flow ratio: 0.9541
• Pressure advance: 0.017