Im stumped at this point, I just recently got a dryer, got it all hooked up broke out the new filament ran it thru the dryer and when i went to print it started to freak out. I swapping out the nozzel figuring maybe it was a clog but its still giving issues. I can purge just fine, feeds smoothly but the moment i try to start a print feeding freaks out and fails. its a ender3 v2, using PLA bed temp was set to 80 for the first layer dropping to 60 after that, nozzel starts at 220 first layer drops to 215 after that which has wroked well for me in the past. usually print at 75% speed. Using creality print

My Ender 3 V3 has started to underextrude on models that it has previously printed perfectly. It happens with whichever model I try, and with any PLA spool I load.

The extruder is getting fouled with filament dust. (Photo of dust on gears was after only a few hours of printing. There was lots more there the first time I opened it up.)

The filament grinding suggests an obstruction downstream (through the nozzle) or too much resistance upstream, causing the extruder to grind away as it tries to move the filament faster than it will go. After cleaning up the gears with a dry toothbrush, the gears look ok to me (see before/after photos) and they seem to turn freely.

I’m starting with dry filament (8-20 hours in the drier). Manually pushing filament through the heated nozzle gives me a straight thread with no curling, implying that it isn’t a nozzle clog, but I’ve switched out to a new unicorn nozzle anyway, just to rule out nozzle issues.

As for upstream resistance, I have confirmed that my filament spools are not tangled. I’ve removed the filament runout sensor that does add some resistance, but that has made no difference. The PTFE tube between the filament spool and the extruder shows no signs of internal wear. That’s pretty much the whole filament path, from spool to nozzle.

It is possible, I suppose, that the extruder isn’t gripping the filament tightly enough, allowing the gears to slip on the filament. I don’t know how to test for that, though, or an adjustment I could make to tighten the grip.

Heat creep could cause a partial clog so I’ve investigated the hotend cooling system. The fan mounted on the side of the hotend radiator does come on when the nozzle is heated. The onboard menu on the printer screen appears to call this the auxiliary cooling fan, which was defaulting to 50% (see 4th photo). I can’t adjust that during a print so i changed it in the Orca Slicer filament menu to 100% and re-sliced. Still getting the underextrusion.

I’m not getting any temperature error messages, and the onscreen graph shows steady nozzle temps. I’ve tried boosting my nozzle temperature from 210 to 220. Still underextruding.

I’ve tried printing it at half speed and still get the underextrusion.

What else can I check? I’d sure like to get this printer back in the game. Be

I had some bad experiences with my first print of ASA so I was super cautious with this one.

Did I go overboard with the brims and the supports here?

Polymaker ASA on a flashforge Adventure 5 pro (an enclosed printer)

I am not sure the specific printer settings that are relevant to this problem, so I don't know what else to write. (I'm new to printing)

The same gap exists in this print no matter the orientation on the print bed. I reloaded the STL and now the gap is in the middle. It's like the initial line won't complete all the way. I did a full calibration, cleaned bed, flow calibration. What am I missing? Thanks.

Bambu Lab A1 0.4mm nozzel

Hi! I’m using the Bambulab A1 mini with PLA

While its printing, i noticed that the surface got a bit rough, there’s even a bit of string poking out, can some one help me identify what’s the problem and what’s causing it?

After seeing this i have lower my printing speed to 50% ( already set it to 500 in the slicer)

My nozzle temp is at 210

Dried my filament before printing and i also cleaned the print bed

Im using the 0.08mm setting in bambulab, but i set it to be at 0.09

Polymaker ASA on a flashforge Adventure 5 pro (an enclosed printer)

I used a z-offset (I think that's the name) of 0.25, 95 C build plate but other than that generic setting in Orca.

I am not sure the specific printer settings that are relevant to this problem, so I don't know what else to write. (I'm new to printing)

Getting this y shifting

Ender 3 v2

Klipper

Orca

.4

Pla 200

Bed 60

What ive done

Tighten the belt

Replace the motor

Slowed print speed down

Sounds

A harsh vibration sound from the motor

I could replace the belts as Ive had the printer in 2019

On an ender 3 pro. I’ve tightened the X/Y belts to the best of my ability where they both make a low/medium tone noise when plucked, and cleaned/greased the z screw a few weeks ago. I am running the wall passes at 20mm/s with outer walls printing first. I can’t figure out how to get this smoother and not have the irregular marks as it transitions from layer to layer.

Settings info below.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Slicer: Cura
Filament material & brand: ELEGOO PLA+
Nozzle temp = 200°C
Bed temp = 60°C
Print speed: walls x3 at 20mm/s, support at 70mm/s prints after walls.
Retraction settings: 4mm at 45mm/s

It does seem like the irregular patterns aren’t the same on the front and back surfaces, which I feels like rules out the z screw. Makes me think x/y belts possible, or a third option I haven’t thought of.

I have properly calibrated both E-steps and per-filament flow for this printer.

I also have all the v-wheels aligned so they hold enough to grasp the extrusion with no play but can be turned with light-to-moderate force still.

If it was Z-axis related, you’d think I would see this everywhere on the layer right? It does seem the same layer noise pattern does *not* appear on both the front and back face of the same part at the same layer? I can see a notable band pattern across a few layers on the front of this part but if I follow that layer to the back, I don’t see that same band pattern - either negative or positive. Which makes me think it likely may not be Z ? My logic tells me if Z was the issue, the same squished or stretched band appearance would appear throughout the whole layer. But I trust any advice you all have, I’m still stumped.

Anyone have any advice?

Hi, this noise is happening all the time with any setting, any clue why is it happening? I just cleaned and lubes everything the other day just to let you know. I also tightened the back rodes a bit

Been trying to fix the stringing for a while and I noticed that my best success, at least with this test, has been the nozzle at 200 with 2mm recreation at 40mm/s. That seems like a really low temp and a really high retraction, no?

Neptune 4 pro. Was dried for 8 hours.

Stats

Print - 160mm x 80mm x 6mm platter with chamfered edges along the print surface with about a 4.5mm x 150 mm area of flat contact on the plate with a 4mm radius x .2mm brim on both the platter and manual support fins with tines holding it in contact with the fins.

Printer - Prusa MK4S with a plexiglass enclosure and filtered vent fan in the back, PEI smooth sheet, cleaned with IPA and no noticable spots on it before the print.

Creality White PLA

Prusa Slicer - 60C Bed, 225C for the first layer, 210*C for subsequent, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, 4 perimeters, 15% gyroid.

Printing a flat sheet at a 45 with manually designed fin supports in the back so I can print multiple at a time when this curling issue is figured out. I am noticing that the edge is warping up even with a brim.

A previous print of this I attempted was cancelled earlier than the pictured print due to one overhang edge curling up that was impacting the nozzle, and the enclosure door was closed.

The print in the picture is the second attempt, where I left the enclosure door open, and it did not have any of the overhang curling being with it being exposed to the cooler air, but I'm now dealing with the brim coming off. No issue with adhesion of the fin supports.

Options I'm considering currently are lowering subsequent layer temps 5-10C and leaving the door closed, raising or lowering subsequent bed temps by 5C, increasing the brim size to 5mm radius, or switch over to larger mouse ears on the corners of this instead of the brim.

Any advice or further ideas would be much appreciated.

Hi guys. I’m printing on my snapmaker u1 and recently encountered this problem. Not sure how or why

For context I am new to printing and want to paint scale figures so I downloaded the stl files for the character with supports (pre made and hollowed) but the obiects are falling off into the resin vat.

I haven't touched my setting that much except for trying to fix a previous issue of the base lifting, I am using;

Gktwo on UniFormation slicer

Elegoo ABS like 3.0 pro

So far the right one, in the slicer, is printing fine and the left one nas a disc fall off that I've iust found in the vat + I can see upor editing this that some of my supports are not connectedto eachother/ snapped?. Also when the plate lifts up it makes a weird noise. I'm not sure how to describe it besides a deep subtle clunky noise sometimes.

I'm not sure on what steps to take but I set the z axis to be slower lifting as I had an issue iust before with the base coming off the printing plate- this seemed to work for the base but not for the current issue.

Help would be greatly appreciated thank you !

I was having bad pillowing issues a while ago and so i took everyone's advice and recalibrated with filament fresh out of the drier and the result was acceptable (that's the small print in the last photo). However, there was still some rough spots so i decided to try my next print with the ironing flow a bit and suddenly i got this crazy stringing. It seems extreme for the adjustment u made (bumped ironing flow to 20% from 10%)

I'm just trying to get a clean, professional looking top surface. I'm using Orca slicer, here's all the print settings used that aren't defaults:
Top surface line width .3mm
Ironing flow 20%
Top shell layers 8
Top shell thickness 1.6mm
Bottom shell layers 6
Bottom shell thickness 1mm
Bottom surface pattern concentric
Sparse infill density 30%

Filament is Bambu PLA Basic gray calibrated with orca. Here's the settings I've changed on that:
Nozzle temp: 210-220
Flow ratio: 1
Pressure advance: .025
Max volumetric speed: 100mm3/s

I'm at my wit's end and i feel like running through the calibrations blindly again will just be wasting plastic

I'm using SUNLU PLA+ with standard settings on an A1 mini. Most prints are quite good but broad flat surfaces tend to get this uneven finish.

Howdy All,

I have a Bambu Lab P2S with AMS pro. I am attempting to print something with overhangs.
I bought support material from Bambu Labs for the overhanging regions. They supports seem to be separating from the build plate and causing the overhang to warp upwards. I'm getting distortion patterns on the top finished surface as a result and my mating pieces don't mate properly.

At first I thought it was humidity (it was hovering around 30%) so I cranked up the AMS and got it down to 20%. Didn't help. I cleaned the build plate. I added a few extra top layers to the support material - no help. Do I need to improve the support adhesion to the build plate?

What am I doing wrong? I've ruined 3 large prints thus far.

Thanks in advance!

Specs:

• Bambu Lab P2S with AMS Pro
• Bambu Studio Slicer
• Bambu Lab White & Black Matt PLA & Bambu Lab Support Filament (PLA)
• Standard Nozzle temp for Bambu Lab PLA (190 to 240 Deg C) and bed temperature of 40 Deg C (Cool Plate SuperTack).
• Default print speeds - Outer wall print speed 60mm/s, Inner wall 150 mm/s. 200 mm/s infill. 150 mm/s Top surface. Slow down for overhangs turned on - default speeds selected. Support 150 mm/s. Support Interface 80 mm/s

I'm deep into my multiboard project using the 8x8 stl file found here and have run into a brick wall. The first 27 boards printed without issue, but then I changed filament and all hell broke loose.

My setup:

• Prusa Core One+ w/ satin sheet
• Filament for first 27 boards - Bambu Charcoal Matte PLA
• Filament in use now - Sunlu High Speed Matte PLA
• Filament dry to below 15% RH using this dryer.
• Slicer: PrusaSlicer

I don't appear to be having first layer adhesion issues as the first layers stick fine. Sometimes the print runs normally for a dozen layers, sometimes it goes spaghetti after the first layer.

When I first ran into issues with the Sunlu filament, it clogged my .4mm high flow brass nozzle, so I switched to a hardened .4mm non-high flow nozzle. Issues continued. I've gone through an entire roll of filament playing with settings.

What I've done:

• Printed with 2 and 3 perimeter shells (MB recommends 3)
• Nozzle temp - I've tried prints every 5 degrees from 210 to 235.
• Bed temp - 60C
• Fans - I've run fans at the default full speed and down to 50% speed.
• Layer height - attempted at 0.2 and 0.15
• Cleaned the plate.
• Said kind words to the machine.
• Dried the filament again at 50C for 8 hours.
• Opened and rotated the idler to clear out dust.
• Cold pull after every failed print.
• Printed a smaller multiboard (1/4 the size).
• Glared at the machine while it was running.
• Increased and decreased the retraction length, but mostly used default 0.7mm.
• Printed at 170mm/s and 120 mm/s.
• Run the onboard axis recalibration tools.
• Verified belt tension.

I'm at my whits end. Any advice?

Hi everyone, I hope you can help me figure out what’s going wrong. At the moment, around 75% of my prints fail and end up looking like this, while the rest print perfectly fine. The other models on the build plate remain stuck to the FEP.

I’m honestly getting really frustrated. I’ve included pictures of my printer settings as well. I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

The FEP is about two weeks old and has barely been used, and I have just re-levelled the build plate.

Edit: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra Elegoo ABS-like 3.0 Pro Resin Chitubox 1.3.0

I designed an AirTag case for use on large rubber bands, we use these bands on boxes as they’re packed and the AirTag is used incase one is mistakenly dropped in a box and packed.
The prints are near perfect, except on every one I have to clean up these strings left in the female side of the threads. Structurally the threads are perfect and once I clean them up the cap goes on great. If I only had to print a few I wouldn’t care, but I’m going to end up printing over 40 of these.
I’m printing on a Bamboo H2D, using Bamboo brand PETG basic with the default print settings in Bamboo Studios for PETG.