The comments were actually hilarious, I appreciate yall. I took the boat out of the water and had two mechanics check it out who don’t think it’s too low. Is it possible that it just appeared low because of the engine stalls causing water to collect under motor and because of the low speed the water was bubbling?

I definitely have a misfire so they’re gonna replace fuel filter and fuel line.

I took a picture and it appears cavitation plate is in the correct spot, should I still lift it a few inches?

The original video is the one where I got flamed (but won’t let me post it again) second picture is where the engine is out and appears to be at right height.

OK, not really a thing that I did, but I did have a panic attack about it today. I sold a boat with a 2 stroke and bought a boat with a 4 stroke. Between swapping fuel tanks, anchors, etc. I had a panic attack that I poured premixed gas into my 4 stroke gas tank.

So what would actually happen? A smoky 4 stroke and new plugs?

Been running lead acid forever and finally decided to switch.

honestly i was mostly doing it because i got tired of dragging those heavy batteries around lol.

litime battery showed up packed really well. install only took a few mins and everything worked right away.

took the boat out this weekend and it ran my trolling motor all day no problem. voltage stayed pretty solid the whole time too. wasnt really expecting much difference but i could definitely tell.

biggest thing for me is honestly just the weight. getting it in and out of the trailer is sooo much easier now

only had it for a little while so cant really speak on long term reliability yet but so far im happy with it.

anybody else switch from lead acid recently? hows it holding up after a year or two?

Hi everyone i have Riva Dolceriva scale model. How much does it worth?

Great community around these boats.

So where I live there is this around 14 foot sailing boat that has been abandoned for about 10 years on a slipway on a beach, I was at that beach today and I snooped around it a bit and it seems pretty sound no huge holes or dents in fairness it looks like it only needs a clean and a new rudder and sail. I am thinking of asking a local fisherman who lives next to the beach to find out who it belongs to to ask him how much for it. I have been watching this boat since I moved here and It has made me pretty sad seeing it slowly get worse and worse and I want to grasp it before it becomes unrepairable and I just feel like the old girl needs a bit of love. I am thoroughly considering asking someone about it and potentially buying it. Should I buy this vessel or should I leave this one be?.

Rebuilt the fuel pump on my 89 Yamaha 8hp, got a little too excited to get it back together. Lucky I found a used OEM carburetor on eBay for a good price. How much torque would you recommend for a carburetor?

Like the title says I can’t raise the trim on the boat. When I go to raise it, the motor runs but it doesn’t come up. I drained and replaced the hydraulic fluid, but I didn’t see any improvement, I’m at a loss as to what it could be. Any suggestions and solutions are welcome.

Good afternoon Guys, I purchased a boat thinking it was fine…. Lol and it has a 2011 Optimax 150 that won't go into reverse but neutral and forward are fine. I adjusted the original shift cable until there was no more adjustment and it still wasn't enough to push it into reverse. I changed the shift cable thinking that the other ones would adjust more but no luck it was the same thing. it needs to be pushed back about an extra inch. I don't know if I need to adjust the shift rod or what. If so can I do it without removing the lower unit?

Installing a fusion 210 this week and needing recommendations. The boss audio was a temporary fix as the previous owner removed the cassette player.
Does anyone know if the fusion will fit in the single din slot or can anyone recommend a block off plate that would bring the unit flush with the dash??

I've been looking for buying my first boat in the US Market, I'm from Colombia and I've been looking on boattrader and boats.com options since in this country they're pretty expensive (AR240 2017 600+ hrs costs about $80,000), so I've been doing some research with customs, FTAs between US and Colombia and I came to notice that it's way cheaper (on paper, since it also depends on freight) to buy one in the US and import it to Colombia (in comparison to the same AR240 2017, it ends up ~40,000 including freight, VAT, duties, etc.). Some options I've looked for are

• 242 Limited S 2016 (jet boat, with all its pros and cons)
• SLX 240-250 from 2010 to 2014 (sterndrive)

Those options are around 50k including trailer and less than 350hrs and in good conditions, also including duties and freight.

The reason I've been looking on those it's mainly because of the water conditions where I want to use it and the main use. I live close to Bahía de Cispatá, which is a bay here in Cordoba that has lot of mangrove (you can take a look at some pics on the internet, it's a beautiful place), and it connects with some rivers and the caribbean sea. Close to Cispatá we have Isla Fuerte, Tintipan, Mucura, Isla Palma, and some other islands where shallow water and many people doing watersports or just taking a swim, snorkeling, etc. So, having a Sterndrive or jetboat is a nice safety feature because many people have had mortal issues with OB props in the past in those islands (drunk people most of the time); also, I will be using it most of the time at the bay enjoying sunsets, doing wakeboard, or a small trip to one of those islands once in a while (~35 miles offshore to any of those islands mentioned before). I have a wife and a 3YO kid that I want to take with us once in a while to enjoy a swin in clear waters, and maybe enjoy with some friends a nice sunset. I like bowriders since they can navigate pretty nice in the mangrove, rivers and sea. Also, I don't plan to leave my boat at the marina or close to salt water because I have plenty of options to store it and rinse it with freshwater once we take it out of water, as well as SUV with enough towing capacity to transport it.

I'd appreciate advice from bowrider owners and anyone in general, sorry if my english is bad. Regards, and thanks!

I recently posted for general mooring advice and have decided to go with mooring whips. Thank you all for your advice! Now I'm interested in optimal mooring line configurations for when we're at the boat/property on weekends and not around during the week. The lake is usually calm but on rare occasions sees 2+ ft chop in 30 kt winds. The boat is an 18 ft (2400 lbs) outboard, dock only 16 ft long.

With the new mooring whips, I want to keep docking simple since we'll have many different drivers with varying levels of experience. I want to use the fewest additional lines while the boat is in frequent use on weekends and fair weather. When we're away for a week or two at a time I would use more lines.

Do I need to use any lines with whips (aside from the whip lines themselves) during fair weather? We get distant wakes, no current, no tide of course.

When the boat is unattended for a week or two, what line configuration would you suggest? Bow, stern and two springs? Use the centre boat cleat? Any issues having two lines at a single cleat? I've got two ideas shown, in blue and in green. I'm not sure if the springs would work on such a sharp angle.

If they threw a couple wind turbines on there it would reduce generator use I’d wager

We see a lot of first-time boat buyers automatically lean toward new, thinking it'll mean fewer surprises, a warranty, and less maintenance, but that's not always the case. On the other hand, plenty of experienced boaters will always buy used, saying that you can get more boat for your money and let someone else take the biggest depreciation hit.

Usually it really depends on your budget, how long you plan to keep the boat, and how comfortable you are with maintenance and the used market. Looking back, what made you choose new or used for your first boat? Would you make the same decision again, or do something differently, why? Pros and cons?

Hey guys.

I bought this boat last year, and it worked fine but i got my hands on a better motor that i was going to install. I saw the transom was slightly cracked under the old engine, but now that i pulled it off along with the rubber liner the previous owner had put under it all of this came to light.

What are my options and how do i go about repairing it? I’ve tried to find guides online but come up with nothing so far.

The new engine is a long shaft so I will take it to a metal working shop to have a taller mounting plate put over the transom, will that be enough to stabilize it?

So I have a small 14' rowboat - no engine, just oars - on a large-ish lake which I use for exercise and fishing. There's no wharf or any facilities, just a grassy shore and a tree which I tie my boat to over the summer so it rests in the shallow and muddy water 4-5 foot off.

I have no idea if my approach to mooring in these conditions is "normal" but I found it works for me! Suggestions for improvement or other strategies I should try? Let me hear it!

What I came up with to ensure the boat isn't stolen, doesn't get caught by wind and is easy for me to take out and moor alone is this:
1. Get a small umbrella-style anchor with 6ft chain and a ring on the end of the chain.
2. Padlock a 15ft chain to the bow - this will be secured to a tree on the shore when I moor.
3. Attach an 80ft rope to the stern of the boat, thread it through the ring on the end of the anchor chain, and make a loop at the end of the rope.

When I'm returning from an excursion, boat full of fish or cloudberries, I keep the rope coiled (I'm lying - it's just in a heap) in the stern along with the anchor while I'm rowing in, leaving the end of the rope permanently fixed to the stern of the boat.

As I approach the shore and my mooring tree I first stash my gear in the bow so it's ready for disembarkment, then put the loop on the end of the long rope on my oarlock to keep it safe, and when I'm about 40-50 feet from the shore I throw the anchor out.
Rowing hard, I try to aim for my landing spot until the boat hits the shore and (hopefully) doesn't glide right out again.

Pulling the oars in and taking the end of the rope in my hand I scramble ashore, throw the rope on the ground and remove my stash from the boat.

Then, when I'm standing on the shore next to my regular mooring tree, I take the loose end of the 15ft chain secured to the bow and padlock it to the tree - this serves both to prevent theft and to tighten the anchor rope.

Finally I push the boat out and start pulling on the rope, which by now goes way out through the loop in the end of the anchor chain and back to the stern of the boat, pulling the boat nicely out until the chain is taut after which I tie the end of the rope to the tree. Voila!

Here she is all moored and looking like she misses me already:

It's a 1982 SeaMax II, made in Finland, with a Perkins 1.408 49hp. Length is 7.2m (about 24'). Needs a lot of interior work, but is fully functional and I could just take it out to sea if I wanted to. Waiting for a friend to come back home from his trip so I have someone experienced with me to teach me how to operate this thing. Probably overpaid, but eh, wanted a cheap boat and this was local.

The trailer is super sketchy and isn't road legal. It's only for getting the boat into the water and back up, so I'll only use it twice a year. Should be fine for that use case.

Never owned anything but an inflatable dinghy, so I'm completely new to anything like this.

Im having problems with my Johnson 60VRO.

The main problem is that it dies when I put in gear. I am able to drive it if I put it in gear and and give it full gas and then let of, I’m able do drive maybe minimum 3 knots. It works great at WOT doing 33 knots.

There is also some issues with idle but I think this is caused by a low transom.

If you know anything about these motors and/or this issue please go in and read more about the situation.

Highly appreciate all heals I can get!