Sorry I’m bad at electrical but I am trying to learn

Turning a mini bus into a mobile home :)

Having trouble with the rear turn signals, neither have power (second pic). I tested fuses are good, every other wire in the harness has power just not the turn signals
Where do I start, do I just splice into the front turn signals?

I have a Volvo xc70 that I installed a hitch and wiring on some time ago. It was a wiring kit from e-trailer that has a control box where one live wire runs up to the positive batter terminal, and two connectors plug into each of the tail light connectors in the car. The wiring has been finicky from the start. The only way everything worked was when I would leave the back hatch unlatched. If the back hatch was completely shut, only the running lights would work. Since then, now only the running lights function no matter what.

I’ve tested the ground with a multimeter, which seems to be good. (Checked and confirmed continuity between the ground pin on the 4 pin connector and the ground screw that attaches the white wire from the control box to the unibody. Is that the correct way to test that?)

Using a multimeter on the 4 pin connector, there is 12 volts going to each of the three other pins all the time, no matter if blinkers, brakes, hazards, or headlights are on or off.

I’m fairly certain the issue is on the car side of things and not the trailer because the trailer works fine on other vehicles, and I have one of those 4 pin circuit testers, and the multimeter, which confirms what I stated above.

What am I missing here? The kit seems pretty plug and play, but surely I’m just missing something.

Thanks for the help!

2011 Kia Sorrento having what seems like electrical issues hoping somebody can give me some sort of direction or advice. Battery test good on my second alternator in less than a year. It’s left me stranded three times out of the three times it would only start up and drive fine for a little while again after sitting for 30 minutes. Battery tested good alternator tested good on a multimeter had it towed to Meineke today they said everything looks good couldn’t really find any issues. They said they seem to think my brand new alternator from O’Reillys may not be any good that I need to go with OEM alternator. I’ve never heard this before. Can anyone give me any sort of direction advice because it’s at the shop right now and I know they are gonna charge me another thousand dollars for an alternator and labor

2010 pathfinder with 4.0 v6 melting coils fixed intermittent crank issue

My mother has this car, but it is the one with the 6" screen without android auto support. I am trying to figure out the most budget-conscious way to add GPS with a larger screen...maybe a stand alone screen instead of a head unit replacement.

Where are the auxiliary power outlets located? I read somewhere that they are always hot, correct?

Does this vehicle have usb ports and if so, where are they located? Also, are they always hot?

I appreciate the help.

I’m wanting to convert my rig (2018 vw Tiguan) from OEM headlights to light pods and bar lights. Ideally I’m hoping to put pods or small bars in the headlight housing locations (I understand it will need some custom fab and or brackets) and have a bull bar that the larger light bars will be mounted to. Does anyone have an idea how I might be able to do this while retaining full use of factory hi/lo switch as well as good light seres within Baja or Rigid?

Thank you all in advance

I have the alarm wire and Guage wire on a single Temp sensor. I cannot find a clear answer if I need the dual sensor (49734A 1 - Sender Assembly) or the single (97258A 1 - Sender Assembly) sensor?

4.3LX SN# 0D388765

Hi, I have a 2003 Toyota ist, right-hand drive. I’m having an unusual problem with the left-side headlight. Whenever I install a new bulb, it burns out almost instantly. The right-side headlight works normally and does not have the same issue.
The left headlight connector appears to have voltage even when the ignition and lights are switched off. When the bulb burns out, the inside of the glass turns white. I have already tried replacing the bulb, but the same thing happens again.

I took the car to a mechanic, and he advised me to replace the steering-column combination switch/headlight and turn-signal stalk. However, I’m not completely convinced that the switch is the cause because the problem only affects the left headlight. I would expect a faulty headlight switch to affect both headlights or cause the lights not to turn on, rather than instantly burning out only one bulb.

The car is a Toyota ist 2003 RHD, 1.3L. Any advice on what could cause this?

I’m trying to get a 1999 Suzuki TL1000S engine running in a buggy. The engine and harness are stock TL1000S as far as I know.
Here’s what I’ve confirmed:
Battery is good (currently on a booster/charger around 15.5V).
Engine has fresh 10W-40 JASO MA motorcycle oil.
Starter motor is good. If I apply battery power directly to the starter, it cranks the engine strongly with good compression.
Main fuse is good.
Ignition switch works.
Kill switch works.
ECU powers up.
Fuel pump is wired correctly now and primes for a couple of seconds when the key is turned on.
Tip-over sensor is plugged in and upright.
The problem is:
The starter relay never clicks. The starter does absolutely nothing when I press the start button.
I tested the 4-wire connector going to the starter relay with the connector plugged in:
Red: ~15.5V all the time.
Red/White: ~15.5V all the time.
Yellow/Green: ~2.8V normally, jumps to ~15.5V when the starter button is pressed.
Yellow/Black: ~2.8V normally, also jumps to ~15.5V when the starter button is pressed.
I also removed power from the relay and measured the relay coil itself. The copper terminals measured about 4 Ω, so the relay coil doesn’t appear to be open.
The side stand switch is still present. Measuring directly across the switch gives:
OL when released.
About 0.5 MΩ when pressed (which doesn’t seem right).
I temporarily jumpered the side stand switch connector on the harness, but it made no difference.
So at this point:
ECU powers up.
Fuel pump primes.
Starter button is clearly sending a signal.
Starter motor works.
Starter relay never clicks.
What am I missing? Is there another interlock (neutral switch, clutch switch, side stand relay/diode, etc.) that could prevent the starter relay from energizing even though the ECU and fuel pump are working?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’ve been chasing this for a while.

I got a dashcam and used a splitter to divert power from my 12-pin plug (behind the mirror). There should be no power loss, and the LDA system still acts like it's on/working, but it doesn't alert me when i'm close to the lins, or sound off when i swerve.

Where is the sensor for the LDA? is it in the back of the mirror? in the housing ? I wonder if one of the wires is blocking the camera or something

I have had past issues with the electrical side of my truck. Took it in and had the electrical cables replaced. Now after less than a year, its doing the same thing. Press the brake, the lights dim and sometimes the "Service Stabilitrac" message pops up. Other times, everything is fine and the. I go to turn and the wheel jerks with the same message that pops up. "Service Stabilitrac" the truck has completely shut off on my while merging into traffic on the interstate. Trying to find solutions without having to take it back in and pay out the wazoo to get it looked at. Thanks in advance for any solutions.

So this issue started/and got fixed a year plus ago. I would drive my car, then all my dials on my dash

would go to zero like it died, shifter indicator was off so it wouldn't let me turn off my car because it "wasnt in park", I could move it to park but it wouldn't indicate. Lastly it would show check engine like and "Service ESC" message. I had a scanner from amazon which listed error code P0700, something about TCM. Then as fast as it came it disappeared. I took it to the dealer and the light was gone, they said they couldn't do anything as they saw no issue. This happened 2 more times until they finally were able to scan it while the engine light was on, and when it was all serviced I asked what was the issue. They said they just had to put electrical tape on some wires under the shifter area. So that worked well for a year. A month+ ago on an average day I turned on my car and I saw the check engine light, I scanned it and it had code P0641, it said faulty ECM, something about shorting or open circuit. Then that went away. Next week I was driving, gauges dropped to 0, engine light came on, service esc came on, and even traction control turned off. I pulled over, turned off my car, turned it on, and drove back home, engine light still on but it drove fine, error code P0700 again. Then it went away same day. Finally, 2 days ago I was doing 60 on the highway, and my car jolts, I think I hear it downshift, I couldn't really tell exactly what happened since I had music on, but once again gauges dropped for a sec and I pulled over, turned it off and turned it back on. It was fine for a mile, and then I noticed that even going 40mph my car was revving harder that I usually hear it. I make it home, and turn it off. Next morning I go to work, engine light still on, I have been going 35, till I hit a 40mph zone, as soon as I go to accelerate, my revs go to 4k, and after a few seconds I smell something burning, so I immediately go back down to 30, hazards on, make it to work, make it through my day, then decide to take it to the dealership. I have a video I will attatch of how the ride there was, a whole bunch of the same thing but happening back to back. I know it must be an electrical issue but could my transmission also have gotten damaged from what I explained?

Hey everyone, ran into a weird electrical issue on my Honda while installing a VIOFO dashcam with an HK3 hardwire kit.

I tapped into Slot 1 (20A - Door Locks/Windows) for constant power and Slot 19 (20A) for ACC using dual-slot fuse taps.

The dashcam and parking mode work fine, but now my driver’s side power window completely stopped responding.

Symptoms:
• Driver’s window won't roll up or down at all.
• Every other window works fine (passenger window and rear windows can be controlled normally from their switches and from the driver's master switch panel).
• The window briefly rolled down once right after installation, then stopped.

What I’ve tried so far:
1. Tried the standard window reset/recalibrate procedure (holding switch up/down for 5+ seconds) — no response.
2. Checked the master window lock switch — it's unlocked.
3. Pulled the Slot 1 fuse tap for 3+ minutes to reset the door module — no change.
4. Verified the wiring harness under the dash near the fuse box is firmly connected.

Is there a separate inline fuse or ECU relay specific to just the driver's window switch that might have tripped, or does the door ECU need a full battery disconnect reset? Any advice on what to test next would be greatly appreciated!

My Honda civic alarm at night also sometimes afternoon almost time of 2pm or 2am most days.when I try to close alarm with push key it’s not working only manual key working at that time.also display is on when alarm appear . Key system error message. My Honda civic 2018 American gov spec. Anyone please help

Anyone know where the deletion patch goes into an Isuzu Dm-Max 2020+? I don’t want to connect it into the wrong one

A photo would be appreciated

Thank you

Can someone help me spot the reverse light switch in my Skoda Fabia MK3 2017 by telling me exactly where the gearbox (and the switch) stands, looking at the engine from above? Umfortunately, I am unable to spot it.