I have a 50W 70s all tube Traynor YSR-1 (Custom Special). There is no output rating on the back but everywhere I look everyone says 4 ohms.

I want to run it in a 16ohms cab, for 1 gig. Rewiring the cab is not an option.

I know you should always match a cab with the same or higher impedance than the amp, although some sources say that 4ohms out into 16ohms cab is a bad idea.

What are your thoughts on this?

Edit: Looked at the schematic, says 8ohms output..
See comments

Just got a Traynor YBA1 and YT15 half stack yesterday. I bought it because it pulls double duty for bass and guitar and overdrives super nicely. Really happy with the amp and speaker but I have some questions about my specific configuration.

-Why do people despise the stock Marslands in the YT15 cab?

-If one were to play the YBA1 through “ideal” 15” speakers for bass and guitar, what would they be?

-does anyone have suggestions for guitar speakers that I should try running these through, like Greenbacks? I have a 2x12 greenback cab and a V30 4x12.

Thank you

Anybody else rocking one of these? Built this back in May from Ceriatone’s kit option. First tube amp I’ve ever wired up after having done plenty of pedals and other amp repairs/mods. I probably spent 10x the amount of time it should take making sure every connection was sound and my lead dressing was correct. Fired up flawlessly on its first power up and is literally the quietest amp I’ve ever owned in terms of hum and general noise.

Happy Toobin’!

I'm thinking of buying the Stage Right 5 / 15 tube amplifier and dropping a Eminence Wizard 12 " inside. Has anyone tried this ? My only concern is ..will I lose some of the Mid- warmth compared to the stock Celestion 70 /80 speaker ? the 70/80 is an economy speaker...according to the web.

Hey folks. I'm going to be selling my 1960s Lafayette amp and was wondering what may be a fair price. When I bought it, it needed a lot of work. I installed a 3 prong cord, cleaned out all of the pots, did a complete recap. Works fantastic and sounds killer. Here are pictures I took immediately after purchase of it and here is the only exact same model I have been able to find a listing for which has a full description of it. Given it seems to have been sold for $550, I didn't know if the $400 price I had in mind is a fair price. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!

Love this amp but Always tone chasing.
Anyone currently using one and what have your done?

I’ve currently updated to:

Fender Bassman Pro 300 Tube Configuration
Preamp Tubes
V1 – Genalex Gold Lion ECC83 / 12AX7
Chosen for its exceptional clarity, tight bass, smooth highs, and low noise. Since V1 has the greatest influence on the amp’s overall tone, it provides a clean, articulate foundation.
V2 – JJ 5751
Chosen for its balanced response, smooth compression, and excellent low-end definition. It stays clean under normal playing and adds natural, touch-sensitive breakup only when played aggressively.
V3 – Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+
Chosen for its strong output, low noise, and balanced character. It drives the following stage well without adding excessive gain or unwanted harshness, preserving punch and clarity.
V4 – Mullard 12AT7 / ECC81
Chosen because V4 is the phase inverter, a position designed for a 12AT7. The Mullard provides excellent balance, reliability, and headroom while ensuring the power section is driven smoothly and accurately.
Power Tubes
JJ KT88 (replacing the stock 6L6GCs)
Chosen for their increased headroom, tighter low-end response, greater clean output, and improved dynamic range. They deliver a fuller, more authoritative bass response while maintaining clarity and remaining clean at higher volumes

Single channel, 40W blackface circuit. Added a LAR/MAR PPIMV and Effects Loop.

Customer is looking around for a custom faceplate. In the meantime, I painted it and put a few stickers 😀

Took the amp to a repair guy, said nothing major was wrong, the bias was set to high and to much voltage output which caused the connection to overheat, just needed a cleaning and it works fine now. Thank you everyone. Also check the guy out if you’re around orange county or ie, or in socal. Supper chill guy and knows what he’s doing.

I honestly don't know how long this has been going on for, I only now noticed it though. Basically, for whatever reason there's a lot of feedback even with the noise gate on max (I own a Mustang ltx50 btw, I just recently got it) and whenever I strike a chord or play anything, this weird residual buzzing occurs. It isn't noticeable unless I have to hold out a chord or there's slow palm muted chugs. I'm assuming it has something to do with gain settings, but I've tried messing with that and it isn't doing much. If you can't tell I'm not really acquainted with guitar gear, and any help is appreciated if you've dealt with the same thing! And, before you ask, I tried to get a sound recording of it but it wouldn't pick up on my phone microphone. I'm gonna edit this rq and specify that it's more like a rattling than a buzzing.

Hi there

I was setting up my new attenuator and pedal board for a combo amp. After setting up, I was trying to get it all to work but I was not getting any sound.

I kept fiddling around with the attenuator and pedalboard for around 20-30 mins. After that I had realised that the cable coming out of the amp (i.e. the speaker out) was loose. The connector was around 50% out.

Even after plugging the cable in fully, I'm not getting any sound out of the amp.

Yes, standby is set to on.

The fuse looks like this: image1 and image2. I honestly can't see anything inside so I assume it's blown. Am I right?

Thanks!

EDIT: Amp is Blackstar Artisan 30 Combo. It's the HT Fuse (T500AL 250V).

Video of Tubes

Valve amps are new to me, is this red plating?

I have a 5 year old Bugera G5 Infinum head which is my first tube amp, I noticed the sound was getting rattley & weak at high volumes so replaced the tubes inside it

I replaced them with 1 x ECC83 and 1 x 12BH7 JJ tubes

They both worked fine at first, then the 12BH7 popped overnight, I assumed there was a fault and got another replacement and has been working
The ECC83 worked for a week of steady use and seems to have also popped overnight

Both tubes have popped after I've turned the amp off after playing it for a couple hours of loud playing then returned the next day to find them busted, so it hasn't even been during the middle of playing. The amp has been switched off during this time, plugged in at the wall but powered off on the amp itself

Has anyone experienced this before? I'm not sure if its worth the money bringing it to a tech when I might just need to replace the head itself, or if i even just got two faulty tubes

My current rig is a Marshall 1987X Plexi and a Marshall Origin 20H that's been modded into JCM800 territory, running into a Marshall JCM900 2x12.

I've tried a few attenuators for times when I can't crank the amps, but they just haven't done it for me. Even though the amp is cooking, you're not getting the equivalent speaker breakup at lower volumes, so the whole thing ends up sounding a bit flat and lifeless. It just doesn't excite me.

For home use, I've got a Nano Cortex, and one thing I really like is being able to get the sound of a cranked amp and cab at sensible volumes.

That's got me looking into the Boss TAE Core, mainly for its cab simulation. My thinking is to run my amps through the TAE Core Cab Sims and into my studio monitors, so I can get the speaker breakup effect in combo with my cranked amps. I know it’ll never beat standing in front of a loud cab, but I'm hoping it'll get me much closer to that cranked amp/speaker feel when playing at lower levels.

Has anyone here gone down this route? Keen to hear peoples thoughts!

I picked this up for what I thought was a decent deal. It sounds great, even if It looks ridiculous.

Any of y'all using one of these?

My other tube amp is a Silverface Musicmaster Bass amp. Im all about old, affordable amps.

title, thanks

Loving the tones coming outta this Chute amp.

I have a peavey 6505+, the power tubes won’t get hot but the preamp tubes do, there’s no blown fuse and i’m just guessing the tubes went bad. But i also got it for 300 and have no history of it

Morning. I'd like to add a switch to add a cap in parallel with the 470pf that's on the board. I'm ok on the switching mechanics, but the voltages gave me pause. The second peaker is after a 22n coupling cap, but is before the grid of the next tube. As such, I'm not sure if I can rig up a little dpdt and wire it in, or I'll just explode.

The 470pf will always be in circuit, but any advice would be appreciated.

I was just wondering how do I correctly turn off and on my amp. I just recently got it and have seen too many videos on how to do it without damaging anything.