2 3/8” notched out. Code appears to be 1 7/16” max. Do I use a stud shoe and call it good? Build out the wall in front of pipe (not ideal because vanity will then interfere with door trim)? Reinforce by tying heavily into right stud (which is nailed to right wall in 8 places)? Something else I’m not thinking of?

I want to install a drywall ceiling in a room with an existing wood plank ceiling as shown in the picture and I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it. The planks are nailed to the ceiling members (2x6 I believe). The ceiling members are about 20 inches apart. The planks are not flat and don't seem to be a uniform thickness. Regardless of how I secure the panels to the ceiling, I want to use 1/2 thick panels and run the long sides of the panels parallel to the planks.

So here are the options I'm thinking about

1. Install the drywall panels directly on the ceiling, making sure to use long enough screws that they secure directly to the structural members. If the edges of the drywall panels, where they meet, are not in full contact with the ceiling, I can slip a shim underneath to ensure they are even with each other. This would require less materials, but I'm afraid that 20" OC might not be close enough for the weight of 1/2" drywall, and that since I have a undulating plank ceiling now, I would end up with an undulating drywall ceiling when I'm done.
2. Install furring strips at 16" OC perpendicular to the planks in general and parallel to the planks where the edges of the panels meet. (I realize I might still have to install shims in addition to the furring strips where the panels meet.) Since they wouldn't line up with the structural member of the ceiling, I would screw the planks more securely to the structural members and probably use long enough drywal screws to secure to the planks as well as the furring strips. I think this would produce the better result, but requires more materials and effort.
3. Take down the planks and install the drywall directly to the structural members. This would probably produce the best end result, but there's still the issue of those members being 20 inches apart. Plus, there is insulation directly above the planks, so I would have to remove it and then put it back and opening up my living space to the attic would make a huge mess. Plus, I'd like to keep the extra insulation of having the planks there.

So, I guess I'm wondering if I'm missing something? Does anyone see a clear upside or downside on these that I haven't picked up on, or have a better way of doing it entirely.

Thanks in advance!

Removed carpet. I'm gonna and and refinish the stairs to match the railings and the rest of the house. What should I do with the risers?

(Dog for size)

I assume the wood is pine. I could cover and strain, or fill and repair the pine that has 60 years of toe kick indentation.

Thoughts?

Howdy folks! First time poster. I have recently come into a farmhouse that was my great grandparents. There is a lot to do so I am sure y’all will get a lot more content. My question for y’all is if anyone has experience with this plaster and if you have any helpful advice, tips, or warnings. The entire ceiling and walls are like this. This is the kitchen where it fell, but the other ceilings are fine. I have my current home so I am debating just tearing it all down throughout the lower floor. Do it once do it right type of thing. Any wisdom or advice?

Edit: I’ll be replacing it with drywall. No plaster fixing, forgot to clarify

Hey guys-
My shower appears to be leaking into the ceiling directly below me. I’m trying to determine wether ir not I can take this in by myself, or if I should get a handyman to take care of it. Any advice of guidance would be appreciated. Thanks!

The entire basement of the house is built in concrete. It is covered with masonry render that creates shading/patterns in the concrete, with fairly deep grooves.

I want to make the walls smooth / without pattern, and I’m wondering how this can be done in the best possible way.

My partner does not want to install battens and then use drywall, but instead prefers either applying more masonry render or plastering.

We had carpet and it was gross. These look like they could be refinished. A few steps squeak and have screws into them. One tread is cracked. They look like they’re built into the wall so I’m unsure of how to replace them.

I’ve been researching but unsure about the stair skirt. Can I install that first when I remove it and then the tread?

I have 5 brick pillars. They are 30 y/o+. Most of them are leaning toward the street.

We're going to take them down.

Worth renting a small excavator?

Otherwise pry bar + big hammer? What about the concrete in the middle.

I don't mind manual labor, I just don't want to kill my back more than I have to.

Hey there, just bought a "new" old house. As you can guess I have many projects to tackle and a lot of it is fixing bad work done by a previous owner.

The next project is the stair to the 3rd floor, to my eye it looks pretty raw and my wife wants me to finish it.

The stairs themselves are actual wood, with rounded nosing, but the bottom step has a flat part on the side where it's exposed.

My thoughts on how I should finish this are to sand and clean, maybe round the bottom stair corner or add something to it, add a skirt? Or something? To either side, and then laquer everything.

Does that sound about right? Just wanting to make sure I'm not missing something obvious, or if there are other options I could pursue. Any recommended YouTube videos you know of I could watch? There's almost too much information out there when you dig.

Thanks so much for your expertise!

I have a problem with my shower enclosure. Water is leaking from the corner where the shower tray meets the tiled wall. It gets onto the bathroom floor outside the shower and also underneath the shower tray.

I called a technician, and he recommended applying silicone sealant inside the shower along:
- the joints between the frame and the tiles,
- the joints within the frame itself,
- the joints between the shower tray and the frame.

However, this advice concerns me because the shower enclosure was originally sealed with silicone only on the outside and has never been sealed from the inside.

My question is: can someone please advise whether it is correct to apply silicone sealant on the inside of the shower enclosure?
Unfortunately, I don’t have the original installation instructions for the shower enclosure.
Or would it be better to get a second opinion and call another specialist ?

Looking to turn a dead end hallway into a 96inch wide reach in closet for more efficient storage space. We also are losing the only entrance to the hallway(soon to be closet) due to another project, and this seemed to be the best solution all around.

So, the initial plan is to cut out a 102inch wide hole, frame it and put closet doors. Then install shelves for the couple dozen storage bins we have.

I’m slowly learning as I do DIY stuff around the house, but haven’t framed anything like this. Hung plenty of Sheetrock and don’t mind the long process of sanding and mudding.

I’ve watched a handful of videos and get the just of framing a closet, it just seems like in my situation, o can be a bit more efficient with access to the backside.

My questions:

Should I build the frame of the closet behind the wall first, and then cut the drywall to fit? Or cut drywall first and the hang new drywall once frame is built?

What is the best way to cut the studs so they are all perfectly the same length?

Any other tips, or suggestions greatly appreciated as well.

Finally pulled the trigger on turning a useless storage closet off the hallway into a proper laundry room. The space was just collecting junk for years, so figured why not make it functional. Got a plumber in to rough in the drain and supply lines, added a 240v outlet for the dryer, and framed out a small shelf above the units. Drywall is done and painted.

The thing nagging at me now is ventilation. I ran the dryer duct through the exterior wall, which was straightforward enough, but the closet itself is pretty tight, maybe 5x6, and I did not add any kind of vent or louvered door for air circulation. Door is solid wood. Washer and dryer are both in there running fine but it gets pretty warm and a little humid when the dryer is going.

Wondering if anyone has dealt with this. Did you cut a vent into the door or just swap it out for a louvered one? I have seen some people mention cutting a return into the wall but that feels like overkill for a space this small. Also curious if humidity buildup long term is actually a real problem here or if I am overthinking it.

Bonjour, comment faire pour allonger ce petit mur de quelques cm ? Un plaquiste m'a suggéré de coller du polystyrène, de mettre un filet et d'enduire par dessus (j'enduis les murs en béton à la chaux). Mais ça ne me parait pas du tout solide comme solution. J'ai vu en magasin de bricolage des plaques de polystyrène extrudé, ça a l'air un peu plus compact et solide que du polystyrène "classique". Mais comment coller cela sur du béton ?

Avez-vous une idée de ce que je pourrais faire ?

Je voudrais rallonger le mur car le cuisiniste à signalé que le lave vaisselle qui viendrait derrière ce mur dépasserait de quelques centimètres et ça ne sera pas très esthétique

Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

While pulling off the baseboards, I noticed mold. After taking out the drywall, there is indeed moisture slowly coming in and some wood sections rotted. It’s probably from the window? Trying to get advise if the windows can simply be repaired or if we need to get them replaced?

Totally new to this, but we’re hoping to hang a door on the inside of this frame so we don’t have to reshape anything around the angled bit. Haven’t taken off the casing yet, but looks like the width here will be around 3 4/16”, so a pre hung 4 9/16” door jamb will overhang by 1 5/16” inside the room. Would we saw off the extra jamb width? Hide it with some molding? Or am I approaching this wrong?

(Edited for bad measurement)

We are getting ready for a kitchen renovation and keeping the range in the same spot. Since the wall and cabinets around that area will already be worked on, I am thinking this is the right time to properly upgrade our ventilation. Our current hood vents outside, but it is a basic flat design and does not keep up well when we cook with high heat or do a lot of pan frying. The kitchen eventually clears, but not before the cooking smell spreads everywhere else. I do not want to just buy a powerful hood and then find out the duct is too small, the run has too many bends, or the house needs replacement air. What exactly should we be checking while everything is still in the planning stage?

Lots of people here thinking it’s wallpaper. The wall is marble mosaics

MIL chose colors and materials, told me she wanted a decadent, moody experience. I was given creative freedom to design around some photos she liked.

Finished pictures first, with some progress pics and one showing the custom transition between their existing hardwood floor and the new tile, because I feel like I spent an entire day cutting and grinding a piece of tile act as an integrated flooring transition.

Any ideas how to finish the backsplash in this area? It’s at a corner but the corners don’t touch.

Alright, you guys crushed the last recommendation, so I've got another one. The shower is also in need of love and I don't have funds to replace it. Aside from the obvious cleaning and removal of old grout, what can I use to fill the messed up grout on the floor and where the walls meet together? Thanks in advance.

I just purchased my first home and I wanted to start framing the basement with the long-term goal of finishing it. I specifically want to finish the left side of the basement first and leave the right half for unfinished storage if possible.

The basement has a french drain and sump pump (located in back right corner).

The left half has (what I assume to be) insulation covering the upper 2/3 of the wall. Is this enough insulation to frame? I understand that the frame should start within an inch or two of the french drain, but I don’t know if I should put anything up to cover the concrete.

Additionally, the entire right side seems to not have any cover over the concrete, so I understand that I’ll probably need to put up some sort of insulation here with drainage capacity.

Does anyone have any tips for getting started? I have some experience with framing, but it was limited to helping with projects from 8+ years ago.