Hello,

Is this motor a BLDC or a PMSM ? I can’t figure this out.

Grator company link

Hi. Would anyone know a diagram for this motor 120 volt connections. Thanks

Im a 3D student and for our assignment we need to make the Yamaha ra31a.
I am trying to find info about the Yamaha ra31a such like diagrams, length, width and other details
But can’t find much online
Does anyone have any info that could help me making this motor?

I have a 2hp Doerr lr22132 Electric motor and need some help to wire it back. I cant seem to find any diagrams that have exactly what I need. The wires are labeled p1 t1 t4 t5 and t8

Hello,

I am using a Marathon B206 motor to run my belt sander.

This motor has a centrifugal switch on it. I had to take this motor apart once to figure out why i was getting a hum and I had to help it jump start.

Questions:

1. I am looking to slow down the RPM of this motor. However, I am not sure if the single phase VFD will work or some sort of dimmer? Or slowing the RPM down is not recommended for this motor?

I got the motor for free from work,

I have another motor that is similar to that but it can run 110/220 @ 50hz. We have other motors (Baldor 3/4 hp with starter capacitor) at work but the motor shaft is too llarge for the pulley. I would have to find someone or attempt to bore a larger hole on the pulley.

1. I need to wire a reverse switch. Im assuming I need a DPDT switch?

Hello,
I recently picked up a DeLonghi espresso machine (la specialista) that had grinder motor issues. The previous owners did not do any maintenance and did not clean the machine at all so there was coffee grind everywhere, which is what I am assuming caused the issue. I thoroughly cleaned the grinder burr as well as the shoot where the actual grounded beans go through. This helped a little bit as now the grinder motor spins freely with no beans inside of it however, it does seem weak. When I put actual beans in there it gets jammed up immediately and nothing comes out. I went ahead and disassembled the machine and took out the grinder motor assembly. My questions are:

- Is there a way for me to refurbish the motor without having to buy a new one?
- If I do have to replace it, how can I identify the motor so that I can replace it without having to replace the entire grinder assembly?
- Which wires can I give power to manually start the motor, and at what voltage should I do it?

Any help would be appreciated 🙂

I've got a 15kw motor that I'm trying to bench test after a bearing replacement and balance. The largest VFD I have available is a cheap 7.5kw unit. All I need to do is get the motor up to speed, there is no load on it. But I can't seem to get past the overcurrent alarms when trying to spin the motor up. The motor does move slightly but instantly stops with the alarm. I've got the motor parameters set in the VFD and the acceleration ramps turned way down, the torque boost turned up. I've tried a lot of parameters but nothing seems to be able to get me past the overcurrent alarm. Is there some secret to getting the VFD to not alarm out on an oversized motor?

I got a free dune racer extreme, and slowly started getting issues starting from upgrading to a 18V ryobi battery. Upgrade history looks like this:

12V ->18V: Worked fine for a little bit until some larger kids got in and burned out stock motors

Upgraded to Traxxas 775 10T motors -> worked fine again for a while, but 6 months or so in I broke a tooth in the final gear in one of the gear boxes

Fixed the final gear + Installed a PWM soft start-> the top speed was really slow, like almost half normal speed. I am thinking my motors must pull more than the 30A continuous the PWM is rated for and current was being reduced.

I removed the PWM, speed went back to normal, but then stripped the "drive gear" or "inner rim" that is attached to the wheel. Currently trying and failing to find a replacement.

**Question**: What's the best way to keep my 775T motors with top speed and still have a fast start? Need a higher amp PWM? ESC (not sure what that is really)? Something else?

Any ideas on a stronger inner rim? I saw some people mention 3d printed versions, but I don't have a 3d printer and don't know anyone with one. If someone has good experience with a 3d printed version and could send me one, would be happy to pay.

I’m working on a go cart project that uses salvaged hoverboard motors. They are 3 phase motors with Hall effect sensors, I bought a cheap controller off Amazon to test them out but it has some qc issues and shorted out. I would like to get some controllers from a good source as to not have it happen again but I can’t find any online. The battery pack I’m using is 36v and the motor controllers need to hook into an arduino for my control scheme.

Hi I got a sensorless bldc and it is really choppy on startup till it goes closed loop. I think you can add an encoder and that fixes it but I’m not sure if I’m doing it right so I just wanted to check 😀. I’m using a vesc mini 6.7 pro and a 4250bldc. If I got an as5047p absolute encoder would that work. Like the one as shown. How would I go about wiring it to the vesc? Thank you 🙏

I am designing a small board that drives several small gear motors(these) and some other things.

Right now, I am using the TI-DRV8213. It works ok for one or two motors, but it is PWM and I will need 6 motors. The ESP32 just does not have enough pins for that.

So, I need to find a motor driver with: I2c daisy chain (or something similar), current limiting, and small size. Does anyone know of a good option?

Looking on the Texas Instruments website, I found the DRV8830. It is right for my use, but I can't find anything on using it with an ESP32. Does anyone have experience using it?

Thank you.

I found this in my friends old computer. It's an old motor with three cables, I tried giving it power but it didn't spin or resist me spinning it by hand, what kind of signal am I supposed to give the yellow cable for it to spin?

I’m looking for haptic LRAs (linear resonant actuators) around 10mm diameter for shipping to the uk, however the only place I can find which sells them is DigiKey, which has ~£20 shipping to the UK, which for a £10-£30 order is not ideal. Any idea where I might get some more locally?

(This is for an individual project so not looking for bulk solutions (>10pcs min))

wondering whether to scrap or sell it

I orginally posted this question in r/CeilingFans but was recommended to try here as well, so here goes:

As some may know the KTE 3089T pull chain switch is terrible to identify since there are no less then five (5!) different versions that are all just marked "3089T" by KTE, leading to much false advice and confusion online as people don't understand the circuitry inside is differant or what circuit the unit they have actually has.

I also face the added problem of having to find a replacement for the KTE 3089T with circuit G - which seems the hardest of all to find.

So if there is anyone who knows of a replacement switch that has the same sequence and will work in fans that originally had the KTE 3089T circuit G they would do me and anyone else looking for such a replacement a great service by sharing that information.

There is almost no information at all online on specifically the KTE 3089T circuit G and much of what is on the KTE 3089T in general is incomplete or misleading so information is sorely needed.

When reading papers on modern traction motors or aerospace machines, I keep noticing that the limiting factor is rarely Maxwell's equations anymore.

Instead it's coolant routing, heat extraction, insulation life, rotor temperature, and thermal gradients.

Another few percent of electromagnetic performance is often meaningless if the heat can't leave the machine. It almost feels like motor design has quietly shifted from optimizing magnetic circuits to optimizing thermal impedance, with the electromagnetic design simply following along.

It's high speed lab homogenizer. Shampoo went up thru the homogenizer blade and into the motor lightly. When I turn the arm manually, i feel a bit of resistance. Now this could be from friction on that spot or that would be from me inducing an electromagnetic current in the coils from turning it. Now, if it was the rust or friction, i would proceed to do the following. First, i can't do anything with that rust, if i remove it, it will come back. Second, I'm expecting even with my light cleaning, there probably is some shampoo left in that arm hole. So I would use isopropyl alchool 99% to try to strip as much as possible without touching the plastic propeller. After doing that, could i just start running it ? Do I need to put grease or oil ? If there was any before, it would have been absorbed by the shampoo. The homogonezier turns from 8000 to 20000 rpm, so does that not even matter?

I'm making prototype and I'm not sure what motor to use for the conveyor.

The conveyor is about 0.5 m long, 1 m wide, and sits at around a 45° angle. It'll only be lifting plastic wrappers and empty plastic bottles from the water, so nothing heavy.

The prototype isn't meant to scoop up a pile of trash at once. It'll only pick up one item at a time (or maybe two small pieces if they happen to be close together), so the load should stay pretty light.

I'm planning to use a 12V worm gear motor, but I'm confused because a lot of the ones I see online don't list the power. They only show the voltage, RPM, and something like "100 kg torque".

I was originally thinking of getting a 50W motor, but now I'm seeing motors that are only 20–35W, so I'm not sure if that's already enough or if I should get something bigger.

Would a 20–35W worm gear motor be enough for this kind of conveyor? Or should I be looking more at the torque than the wattage? If torque is more important, around what value should I aim for?

If anyone has built a small conveyor before, I'd appreciate any advice or things I should watch out for.

Where would someone sell a 125 hp subsea motor.? Any idea on value ?
Typically used for submarines and dredges but could be used for something else too

Not sure if this is the right place to post but I have a 12v motor that works fine when hooked up directly to the battery it works seemingly fine bit if I run it through a solenoid it runs real slow and gets hot. But if I hook that same solenoid to another motor it works fine. I'm not sure what's up with it.

Floor fan has stopped working, I've checked the basics such as fuse, and lubricating parts. But I'm a novice so I need pointers on where to go next. 🤗

My next step was to try to replace this part, can any one point me in the direction of where to find a replacement?

Basically what the question says.In DC motors depending on the mechanical load(moment of inertia) the angular frequency of the rotation of the robotic arm slows down while for synchronous ac motors this doesnt happen.However I was wondering if there are any drawbacks if using AC motors(excluding the more expensive control circuitry)?

If any of you are looking for a motor to use I recommend the Apisqueen U2. For pool ROV's it worked fine for me and isn't bad for the price. I also modeled it today based off of their spec sheets so here you go. [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7383622\](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7383622)
The lack of a cad file was my big gripe with them, but after i modeled it I really dont mind them at all.

basically i have 2 bts 7960 , esp32 , a fly sky ct6b remote and R6B receiver. the problem is when i increase the throttle , the motor starts stuttering/twitching and the other motor also sometimes starts twitching on its it own. for the record , im using the usb cable to power the esp32 and pwm pins on the bts module , while the external power for motors are provided via a 12v 5a adapter. I've tried running several tests , including replacing the 12v motors to BO motors , those small ones ran just fine , no twitching but these big ones twitch. I even tried running a simple 5s spin forward , then spin backward , same result no twiching , only when i test it using my flysky transmitter system it starts twitching. I've added ceramic capacitor across motor terminals and even placed a electrolytic capacitor across the bts module's ext supply. the esp32 ground and ext power ground are NOT connected. Need help...

here are the wirings:

ESP32 → Receiver

GPIO32  → Receiver CH1
GPIO34  → Receiver CH2

5V       → Receiver VCC
GND      → Receiver GND

ESP32 → Right BTS7960

GPIO27  → RPWM
GPIO19  → LPWM

5V       → R_EN
5V       → L_EN

GND      → GND

ESP32 → Left BTS7960

GPIO25  → RPWM
GPIO26  → LPWM

5V       → R_EN
5V       → L_EN

GND      → GND