So I stupidly let may parents use my car and they decided to close my cupholder for some reason. Anyone with the insert know how to fix this without having the take the whole middle console apart? It wont open all the way, but it does close

As yall can see one of my taillights isn’t working fully, and I’ve been told it’s the whole taillight that needs to be replaced since it’s going out , but I’ve been thinking about getting aftermarket’s or keeping OEM, can yall show me some of yalls and what they’re called

So I stupidly let may parents use my car and they decided to close my cupholder for some reason. Anyone with the insert know how to fix this without having the take the whole middle console apart? It wont open all the way, but it does close

I fixed the gallery gaskets, replaced the timing chain, valve cover gaskets, thermostat, water pump, and after all that it’s still cutting out on acceleration. It was just running perfectly fine until I put gas (91) in and then the engine light came on and it started sputtering like it would if a MAF sensor went out. Has anyone else had this issue? Or would it be a wiring issue? It’s the 2nd time that has happened after I put gas in, I fill it up and it cuts out like sputters on acceleration. Please someone help if they can.

2013 Infiniti G37 Sedan – Intermittent Electrical Issue. Gauges, Cooling Fan, and Wiring Harness? Need Help Diagnosing
I’ve been chasing an electrical issue on my 2013 Infiniti G37 sedan and I’m hoping someone has seen this before.
The biggest clue is that if I move a certain wiring harness/wire around, everything suddenly starts working again. If I let it move back, the problem comes right back.
Symptoms:
Gauge cluster will randomly stop working.
Cooling fan won’t come on when the issue is happening.
As soon as I move the wire into the right position, the gauges immediately come back to life and the cooling fan turns on.
I’ve literally driven while holding the wire in a certain position just to keep everything working.
The problem is 100% repeatable depending on the position of the wire.
I’ve attached pictures of the exact wire/harness I’m talking about.
At this point I’m trying to figure out if this is:
A broken wire inside the insulation.
A loose or damaged connector.
A bad ground.
A common G37 wiring harness issue.
Or something else entirely.
I don’t have a lot of experience with automotive electrical diagnostics, so if anyone recognizes this harness or has dealt with the same issue on a G37 or 370Z, I’d really appreciate any advice.
What would be the proper way to diagnose this? Is there a common failure point I should inspect first, or should I start by checking continuity on each wire in the harness?
Thanks in advance for any help

(THIS IS THE BACK BEING THE PASSENGER SIDE)

I just want to save some time and stress of removing the crank bolt, best tools to do it? Any budget, can do a fuel impact wrench, whatever, I hear about a heavy 19 mm socket and stuff, can someone that already suffered that can guide me !! Im using the EPS tuning kit for the gasket and hardware

I’m finding that normal shops can’t do alignments and I once tried a Gyraline tool but I wasn’t too confident in its results and how it was changing numbers constantly. Does anybody have a good DIY alignment solution?

Just yesterday and today, 2 more lights came on my dash. The traction light, like when it’s slipping (but it’s solid illuminated) and a flashing airbag light. When I do a pull, the BRAKE light comes on too but then goes off when I stop accelerating. I’m in florida, and it’s been raining a lot. Could this be my BCM? i had issues with it last year. I haven’t had a chance to run the codes yet. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!!

2012 g37 journey

I inherited a beautiful 2009 Infiniti G37 hard top convertible, 2 door, with only about 70,000 miles on it. The previous owner told me that the hard top didn’t work but when I tried it, it worked flawlessly (after I removed the crap in the trunk preventing the flippers from popping out properly). I’ve had it up and down a couple of times since then.

I had to replace the battery last week, and then took it into the dealership for some repairs (alignment, rear brake replacement, oil change) and before parking at home I took the top down to make it easier to back into the garage. It got stuck on the way down (I wasn’t completely level when I hit the button) but once in the garage I was able to get it to complete the down cycle.

I am getting no response on trying to close it. No movement from the hydraulics, no acknowledgment on the dash that I have requested to close the top. I’ve turned it off and on, driven it for a bit, tried again. Nothing.

Any suggestions?

Some idiot tried to break in my car. The lock and handle still works but the window will get jammed going down time to time. Don’t want to keep spending too much money on this car so anyone got some cheap ideas to fix or hide it?

Currently running 255/40/19 in rear and 245/40/19 up front but I keep having the issue where my awd light keeps popping up after a couple miles of driving it was fine for about a week….I’m wondering if I have to run a squared setup on awd to fix my issue…..I’m currently have the sport 19s off a coupe if that matters

So i have a coupe with 4was system, so my options are very very limited. keeping stock cats, I think im going to go with the z1 resonated single exit with resonated y pipe. Is this setup way too loud? way to raspy? or way to drony? all people talk about is un resonated isr single exits