As yall can see one of my taillights isn’t working fully, and I’ve been told it’s the whole taillight that needs to be replaced since it’s going out , but I’ve been thinking about getting aftermarket’s or keeping OEM, can yall show me some of yalls and what they’re called

So I stupidly let may parents use my car and they decided to close my cupholder for some reason. Anyone with the insert know how to fix this without having the take the whole middle console apart? It wont open all the way, but it does close

So I stupidly let may parents use my car and they decided to close my cupholder for some reason. Anyone with the insert know how to fix this without having the take the whole middle console apart? It wont open all the way, but it does close

I fixed the gallery gaskets, replaced the timing chain, valve cover gaskets, thermostat, water pump, and after all that it’s still cutting out on acceleration. It was just running perfectly fine until I put gas (91) in and then the engine light came on and it started sputtering like it would if a MAF sensor went out. Has anyone else had this issue? Or would it be a wiring issue? It’s the 2nd time that has happened after I put gas in, I fill it up and it cuts out like sputters on acceleration. Please someone help if they can.

So i have a coupe with 4was system, so my options are very very limited. keeping stock cats, I think im going to go with the z1 resonated single exit with resonated y pipe. Is this setup way too loud? way to raspy? or way to drony? all people talk about is un resonated isr single exits

I just want to save some time and stress of removing the crank bolt, best tools to do it? Any budget, can do a fuel impact wrench, whatever, I hear about a heavy 19 mm socket and stuff, can someone that already suffered that can guide me !! Im using the EPS tuning kit for the gasket and hardware

I’m finding that normal shops can’t do alignments and I once tried a Gyraline tool but I wasn’t too confident in its results and how it was changing numbers constantly. Does anybody have a good DIY alignment solution?

2013 Infiniti G37 Sedan – Intermittent Electrical Issue. Gauges, Cooling Fan, and Wiring Harness? Need Help Diagnosing
I’ve been chasing an electrical issue on my 2013 Infiniti G37 sedan and I’m hoping someone has seen this before.
The biggest clue is that if I move a certain wiring harness/wire around, everything suddenly starts working again. If I let it move back, the problem comes right back.
Symptoms:
Gauge cluster will randomly stop working.
Cooling fan won’t come on when the issue is happening.
As soon as I move the wire into the right position, the gauges immediately come back to life and the cooling fan turns on.
I’ve literally driven while holding the wire in a certain position just to keep everything working.
The problem is 100% repeatable depending on the position of the wire.
I’ve attached pictures of the exact wire/harness I’m talking about.
At this point I’m trying to figure out if this is:
A broken wire inside the insulation.
A loose or damaged connector.
A bad ground.
A common G37 wiring harness issue.
Or something else entirely.
I don’t have a lot of experience with automotive electrical diagnostics, so if anyone recognizes this harness or has dealt with the same issue on a G37 or 370Z, I’d really appreciate any advice.
What would be the proper way to diagnose this? Is there a common failure point I should inspect first, or should I start by checking continuity on each wire in the harness?
Thanks in advance for any help

(THIS IS THE BACK BEING THE PASSENGER SIDE)