I’m looking to buy my first truck off my neighbor, It only has 45k miles and runs good, it looks a little rough but nothing a good wash and wax can’t fix. My neighbor says it’s a rare truck and that’s why he wants $18,000 or trade for my 2003 Porsche 911. Do you think I should pull the trigger?

I have been fixing up an old 91 ranger I bought a few months ago and decided to do something a little custom. The old handles were broke and the foam was rotten. So I cut some new ones out with oak I had, they are finished with Rubio monocoat. Very happy with how they came out!

Look at the center woodgrain vs. What I clear coated and cleaned

(Specially only 1-3rd gen no hate)

I really want a reliable clean ranger that I know I can get 10+ years, even 4-6 out of. I have a beautiful shitbox+rustbucket right now that tries her best and gets the job done but i probably only have a year left with her if unless she decides she needs another 2000$ repair.

Just curious of how you allll you found your rangers, how much time you’ve had em and how much longer you’ll get out of them. I’m sure we all know the ranger market is out of control but the area i live in is especially bad for em. Just wanna hear real experiences and knowledge from everyone; was it hand me down, marketplace, restoration, dealer, etc. And how’s it running today vs when u purchased.

Every Cab + Bed Design That Exists and I Wish Existed. I'm really eyeing that 6ft Crew Cab I wish those were real! Also, this was made in Photoshop just for fun. The color-matched ones are AI because I couldn't figure out how to change the colors in Photoshop myself. I didn't want to just generate them I wanted to make them. Anyway, let me know what y'all think!

Well guys, its been good. Got into an accident on the way to work this morning. Lady failed to yield in a parking lot and gunned it into my passenger side.

Im not at fault but I'm not sure what insurance will do because I only have liability. She also filed a police report because she insists I was at fault, which I know I'm not.

Gonna try and get in a new (to me) ranger if insurance wants to total this out. My door is caved and so is the side of the cab. Luckily this was just a beater daily so no real loss.

I recently got a new 3D printer and have started learning CAD so I can make some replacement things. My current project is a new center console with a bit more storage and better cupholders, then next I plan on making a better flush mount bracket for my aftermarket radio. With that being said, is there anything y'all have wanted or wished there was a file for? I'm looking for more things to work on that I can either use in my ranger or just use as 3d modeling practice that maybe someone else can make use of

Edit: I appreciate all of your ideas/requests, I will do my best to get things together but it will take me some time because I am still newer to modeling things and I don't have immediate access to all things Ranger(ie the console around a shift nob, or gen 1/2 Rangers). But if anyone is able or willing to send me pictures and measurements of gen 1 or 2 items, shifter console and stuff, or anything niche, it'd be a huge help. But most importantly, thank you all for your responses and interest!

Blast it with upside down air duster and it slides right in. Dry ice who?

Fully rebuilt and tested engine, just replaced it. Hunted down a couple vacuum issues and some crossed lines and it was running great. Now, whenever I'm at neighborhood/parking lot speeds and I take my foot off the gas entirely to coast, the RPMs will randomly dip down into the upper 300's, and/or die entirely. No shake, no symptoms, just quiet. When it dips into the 400's, I'll feel my steering tighten up and I'll often see my voltage meter drop. It only ever does this at coasting idle. It wasn't doing this when I first replaced the engine. I've put approx 50 miles on it since.

Two things of note:

Today I replaced the IAC valve with the correct part # from the ford dealership that I had to order from a dealership in another state. Exact OEM match. I thought maybe the IAC valve was randomly shutting itself.

I don't think it's related, but my 1 year old water pump with less than 5k miles is now leaking from the weep hole. I'm very annoyed.

Is it normal for tensioner pulley to bounce like this? Ford Ranger 2014 PX1. Is that the ticking noise in the background?

Hey everyone this is a repost from yesterday since I couldn’t find a way to put the video in here. Unfortunately I’ve run into an issue where I hear a squeaky noise while the ac is running - specifically when I’m idle at a stoplight in drive.

Now it’s running a solid check engine light, only problem is the previous owner seemed to have killed the OED port so I can’t really read the code it’s throwing.

I have my mechanic coming to take a peek at it for me tomorrow morning. Check engine light only came on in the past 24 hours.

Bought it for $900 on fb marketplace. Had a cracked frame lots of rust and it also didn’t come with a bed. This is about a months worth of progress. Had the truck for 5 months now but I decided I wanted to completely fix the whole truck.

Repainted my 1989 fors ranger dash! rattle canned the original black part and taped off the woodgrain. then clear coated all of it

TLDR: What rear dif is this?
2005 4.0 automatic 2WD

I bought this a ~7 years ago from a father/son duo who wanted it as a project truck, but didn't have time. The previous owner did a ton of work and I suspected the rear end was not stock. It came with an open dif, but did not exhibit open dif behavior. I finally had enough time to time to hunt down an ABS light issue and it lead me to the rear end where I confirmed non-stock dif with [probably] 4.56:1 (and missing tone ring). What dif exactly? I have no idea. I've done A LOT of comparing to online photos and have yet to find a match, so if you think you recognize it, please let me know! I already sealed it up, because this was supposed to be a "quick" peak for the ABS light (lol, it's never quick), but I have a bunch of photos and other documentation. Thanks in advance! 🛻

All the stamps/etches including those on the ring & pinion:

51008
"T" written in what appears to be permanent marker
51010 3TAA 52649 (the 9 may be "g, hand etched)
22609 (the 9 may be a "g, hand etched)
15 (hand etched)
C2 FD88-456 C10 (The first C may be a "G")

https://reddit.com/link/1v3ofoz/video/67ram1ygoteh1/player

Tengo una Ford Ranger 3.2 diesel automática, modelo 2023 XLT con 75,000 km recorridos.

Actualmente tengo una suspensión Old Man Emu Nitrocharger, quería cambiar a unas llantas más grandes, unas 285/70r17 pero aún no estoy seguro, ¿creen que tendré problemas con la dirección o de algún otro tipo?

The grey is just a proto and the final is out of clear PC filament

Buenos dias tuve algo raro en un viaje de 300 kilometros. En algunos pasajes cuando iba a mas de 140km/h constante. Se me subia la temperatura de la transmision. Luego cuando volvia a 120/130 km por hora se estabilizaba. A alguien le paso?

So today while driving to work (442miles) my ac was blowing cold like normal then as I picked up speed it would blow warm. When I pulled over it would blow cold again. I googled it and it said that the ac clutch is slipping. It said I could remove a shim from the clutch. I pulled over at a store and removed I found one washer that was in the clutch. I took it out and there was also a loose metal ring. I took it out too. So it started rubbing so I put everything back. Now it’s still rubbing and when I push my clutch my truck dies. I can see the bearings when I take the clutch off the pulley. And they are not all there. That loose ring was I’m assuming part of the bearing. Can I just change this pulley and clutch? And does it come as assembly? Thanks.

Edit: my truck was not dying before I messed with the clutch. I post videos in the comments.