Hello!

I own a 2017 Ford Focus MK3.5 (ST- Line) and need your help. I damage the front lip and decided to replace it.

Taking the lip off was no issue as I just had to remove two clips and pull. Yet I did break 2 little tabs keeping it in place.

I now need to fasten the new one but can't seem to find the right angle or right way to do it...

I'm afraid of breaking more tabs and messing up.

Could any of you advice me on how to fasten it?

Online search has been hell since that type of front bumper with that specific lip seems rather rare.

2013 Focus SE, need to replace the front door actuator. One description says:

Front Driver Door Lock Actuator for Ford Focus 12-14 with Anti-Theft Package

What is the anti-theft package? How do I know if I need that? If I don't need or have that in my car, would this one not work? The price difference is minimal between with and without anti-theft.

Il admit im poor but I want a exhaust to hear the car more and for it too sound better got any recommendations on a budget

So far the only major thing I’ve done is this short ram intake (K&N) and I was looking to want to do more. I have also went through with a muffler delete and soon potentially replacing the resonator with a Cherry Bomb resonator. I want to do more both cosmetically & reliability. Any suggestions or recommendations are welcome :)

I will say however, I have the Automatic DCT with no prior servicing & not to jinx anything I have yet to experience any issues with it. At the current mileage, is it worth maybe doing a drain and fill on it or just leaving it alone?

I am wondering if I could add fog lights onto the car. I think it’d look nicer. I wouldn’t expect there to be any options for wiring though. Has anyone added fog lights onto a 2013 Ford Focus SE? Any easy kits?

I live in Texas and I think the heat may have melted the glue that was holding it. Anyone know how to fix it?

My original radiator from 2012 finally blew after 338,000 miles at 11 pm leaving the girlfriends house like it was destined to😂

I got the aluminum replacement but after removing the coolant overflow hose that connects i belive the thermostat and radiator to the overflow the line snapped

I bought 3 separate replacements from 3 separate brands and they are all junk

Extremely frustrating because they are 40-60$ a piece

Even the motorcraft one wouldn't hold a seal

I finally got so fed up I rigged something up myselfand after driving 100 miles I was very pleased not to have any leaks

Does anyone else have issues finding a suitable part and maybe I was just unlucky 🤷‍♂️

Apologies, I know zero about cars. Check engine light came on today, solid amber on a 2020 Focus 1.5 Diesel. Coincidentally was only serviced last week. I rang the dealership and they said from their end it looks like a nox sensor problem.

I have zero knowledge to be able to tell if this is a big problem or minor one, an expensive one or cheap one. Car is still driving fine. Light came on as I was driving. There is nearly 60k km on the car. Only really use it for commuting to work.

I have a 2016 1.0 Ecoboost trend, UK version. Every morning when I start my car up it makes this sound. For the rest of the day it’s gone.

Check link for audio.

Hi all.
Went to change my inner tie rods today and was greeted with a really strong odour of burnt rubber and found that a metal seal has come loose from the steering rack. Have been googling all night but can't find any info regarding this. Have also checked the service manuals available online and have had no luck.

Car is a 2012 focus 2.0 tdci mk2
electric power steering so no power steering fluid from what I've gathered.

Any advice on what to do would be very much appreciated!
Cheers

For context: I have ford focus 2019 1.5 ecoboost. Could you please examine the sound a bit please. I had o2 sensor replacement about 2-3 days ago. Engine never sounded like this before.

Engine fault and ESP lights are on does anyone know why? The mechanic can't figure it out. The car runs perfectly and drives well.

I have a 2017 Focus with an MTX75 5-speed. Running Motorcraft or Motul is not an option because of availability.

I'm wondering if anybody has experience running the different viscosities of Redline. They are all GL-4. I currently have the Redline MTLV because it matches the 70w75 viscosity in the Motorcraft DCT fluid, but it feels a bit thin. Earlier focuses with the same MTX75 transmission use Ford synthetic manual transmission fluid that they don't make anymore. Does anybody have any experience with the higher viscosities?

Please don't just suggest using Ford Xt-11-qdc or Motul dct, thats not what my question is asking

Recently bought the car and was surprised by this code. On a hot start, the car struggles to start. On a cold, it starts no problem. I was told to get a smoke machine and test some of the hoses. Was also told it could be a purge valve.

It was my birthday today and I’m trying hard to save up for a nitrous blue RS 2017, sunroof etc. I have a ways to go, and as a result, my partner has paid for a track day for me to drive the RS and have a feel for it. I’m so excited :D

Drive a lot and am almost at 300k on my 2005, looking forward to a lot more!! How much you guys at?

I recently redid the sound wiring, as the previous owner didn't do a good job. Everything was fine until a few weeks after I lost power to the head unit. I can jump off the 12v power plug, and it'll come on. At the same time, my dash started to have a delay on startup. I've had a few Focuses before, and I'm aware of the bad pin solder issue that was always more intermittent. This issue is the same every time on start; the tach, speedo, and fuel gauge will take about 30 seconds to read correctly. It also seems like my 1/4 tank mark is now almost E. I haven't tested this fully yet. I have replaced the ignition switch already. I'm going to start poking around the GEM here soon. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this.

2005 ZXW. I've looked and everyone has the opposite problem. Position 1-3 work fine but no 4. What gives? Is it still the resistor? Switch? Anyone else have this problem?

Hey! I have a question, especially for those who’ve had or worked with the 1.5 diesel DV5 (whether BlueHDi, EcoBlue, or other variants). I have a 2019 Focus, ZTDA 1.5 EcoBlue, 120hp, with the 7mm timing chain. It was replaced about 40,000km ago (when I bought the car, it had 164,000km at the time, and the previous owner had it serviced with a new 7mm chain), and for a while now it’s started rattling on cold start, about 1 minute on the clock. I didn’t know about the 7mm chain issue when I bought it, found out later.

My question is: has anyone here installed, or do you know someone who’s installed, the HEPU 21-0700 kit on these engines? I got a call from the parts shop and there are issues with the compatibility check on that specific kit (for the other components — timing belt, water pump, etc., it shows up as fitting the 1.5 EcoBlue with Ford OEM codes, checks out against the VIN, but only this kit doesn’t). I don’t want to throw money away, but at the same time I don’t understand why it wouldn’t be compatible (at least on Autodoc, it shows up as a match for ZTDA).

I checked the Peugeot/Citroën OEM codes on the HEPU kit (found on Autodoc) against a BGA kit listed by specs, and they’re the exact same codes (but the BGA one also has Ford OEM codes listed). Not sure how relevant this is, but figured I’d mention it.

Should I go “at risk” and buy it anyway, or try a different option?

Okay issue one, AC blows cold but only works on speed 4. 1 2 and 3 does not work so I am guessing Resistor....But recirculation mode only. With recirculation off, if I accelerate all speeds work. Once I sit no ac except for speed 4. I also have intermittent stalling and last code pulled was P0087 but I thought it was the TCM because that's common on my car they say. It only seems to stall if I do in town driving too much or park and run idle. I notice it more in drive thrus. I really never have a problem because i only do highway driving but here lately i have been driving in town more and it will stall shake and die and i have to sit a second then it will start hesitantly and i can drive a few more feet or half a mile sometimes and it will do it again. Then after a few of these attempts it works again. Anyone know if they are connected? Or at least how and what to look for to fix them. If it is a resistor anyone with same type of focus know where the resistor is i have heard pedal and glovebox. Also which resistor autozone had different types.

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an old Ford Focus and the shift linkage keeps popping off, leaving me completely stuck without gears.

If i push the "ball" inside the brown piece and put It in the first gear Im ready to drive again,but its only a metter again that It happens again,usually like 2 times per week.

Its not a Big deal,but im worried it'll pop out somewhere dangerous, like merging onto a highway.

My parents were told years ago that fixing this was super expensive. Has anyone else dealt with this? Is it really that hard or pricey to fix? As a person with no knowledge in mechanics I think I just have to change the brown piece, but it may be a very simplistic thought 😂

2013 with 180K miles and factory thermostat. I got the code leaving work yesterday. It was close to 100 out. I got home and read and cleared the code. Took it for a spin this morning. No code and the heat works in the cabin. Temp gauge stays in the middle as always.

Has anyone had this code come on and not again? I ordered a replacement. Figure it’s time to change it either way.

Focus 2014 SE, había un corto que fundía el fusible F34, da energía a las VVT, inyectores y otras cosas, ya se solucionó pero ahora me arroja ese código del selenoide de escape

its a 2012 ford focus titanium if that helps.

It’s been doing this whirring noise, like right over the glovebox.

I have had the car from 162,000 miles now at 180,000 and this is like second time it sounded this bad first time it was after driving highway speed for about 40 minutes using the sport mode, this time started after letting the car slow down from about 80mph to 70 without using the brakes, and after that it also sounds when the car comes to a smooth stop, not if the break was a bit hard.

The car gear doesn’t seem to affect it, smacking over the glove box shuts it up for a bit. Could it be something important I need to address right now?