Made a post a couple weeks ago asking about getting one and after thinking it over i ended up buying one. I went with a ebay kit and it seemes to fit great. I cleaned and flushed the parts before installing to make sure any weld dust didnt get sucked into my turbo. Any of the issues that popped up were because of my own add ons. The new ac condenser mounts and Intercooler mounts had to be modified because I put in a bigger radiator and had to length the radiator support. It dropped the Exhaust temperatures 150 - 200 degrees. Towing a trailer up a big hill near my house used to make the temps rise to 1100° now its down to 900°. I should have measured the air intake temps from before and after but I forgot to. The intake and outlet of the Intercooler has a big difference, the intake can't be touched because of the heat but the outlet pipe can be grabbed and its only warm. Been driving for the last few days with it and probably put about 200 miles with no issues, but thats barely anytime to see if any issues will pop up.

What would cause oil to leak from here

My truck earlier felt like it wasnt getting fuel checked bowl had fuel emptied it and changed fuel filter thought it was fixed drove like 3 miles then it died and couldn't get it to start again. Towed to my house recharged battery now it started but its surging at 2k rpm any thoughts? having trust issues on driving it. Edit i let it idle for like 30 mins no issue but upon trying to take it around the block it lost power and died

I’m looking to put a mechanical pressure gauge on my 6.9 idi. I was looking at the sandwhich adaptors for the oil filter but I’m reading now that there’s no clearance for them on the 6.9 idi. I also read that the best spot is the factory NPT port located behind the air intake, where the factory oil pressure sending unit is at. Curious as to what other people have done or where the best spot is to measure the oil pressure in an engine in general?

2002 F240 7.3 LB 4x4 The body is in excellent condition overall. There are a few very minor scratches and small dings, but nothing significant. None of the body panels have any rust, and the undercarriage has little to no surface rust. The truck currently has 175,000 miles, and everything is running well. I’ll also be posting a video of the engine. There appears to be a little bit of vapor/steam, and I’m not sure if it’s normal or if it could be blow-by. I’d appreciate your opinions after watching the video. Here’s where I could use some advice. It seems like these trucks continue to climb in value and become more desirable. I bought this one a few years ago for what I think was a great price, and I’ve considered selling it while the market is strong to hopefully make a profit. If I did sell it, my plan would be to save up and buy another one that’s closer to showroom condition with significantly lower miles. The downside is that those trucks are becoming incredibly expensive—I’ve seen clean examples selling for $40,000–$50,000. It seems crazy, but I understand that’s where the market is headed. So my question is: would you keep this truck and invest in maintaining it for the long haul, or would you sell it while values are high, take the profit, and eventually upgrade to a lower-mile example? I may be overthinking this, but I’d really appreciate any advice or feedback from those of you with experience. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

I realize that in CA, tuners are technically not legal to own, but that can be said for tons of things of this nature.

I didn’t realize this would be such a task.

Just wait for one to pop up on FB marketplace? Does anyone ship them to CA blank?

Here is a video of the truck running and the steam that comes out of the oil reservoir not sure if it’s a major issue or not. I don’t think it is. Let me know your thoughts.

A few days ago i mistakenly pumped gasoline in a 2013 Ford Fiesta diesel. I drove it for about 100km overall for a couple of days, and i noticed some power loss. I actually noticed the mistake just today, having a flashback of pumping gas when i was really tired. I went and put well over half a tank of diesel in the car, and now it runs perfectly, there's no weird sounds or any repair lights on tge dashboard. How on earth did that car not break down completely?

I want to start off and thank everyone in this sub that pitched in with previous post. Very helpful. This truck is a daily that I’m trying to bring back to life. 2 things I’ve yet to figure out.

1st passenger window only rolls down but not up. The first thing I suspected with maybe replacing the window motor or regulator. Things to note when I try to roll down from driver or passenger it does the same. I grabbed a battery connected a wire to each positive and negative and it rolls up and down. I’ve checked accordeon boot in between no tore wires or issues.

2nd suspicion that vss is going out (vehicle speed sensor. Symptoms jumping speedometer, transmission shifts hard, overdrive light is blinking, also overdrive is gone.

Any help is appreciated

I have a 2017 6.7 and all of a sudden it wouldn’t start, finally got it to start and it runs very rough then dies. From my scanner, fuel rail pressure is only showing about 6700psi which seems very low. Did a DCR swap last summer, and replaced fuel filters yesterday thinking that may have been the culprit, but didn’t fix the issue. Fuel pump fuse is good. Anyone have a clue what it could be? Thank y’all

New to the thread, buying my first diesel in a long time. Got a bit of a project. Truck randomly dies, runs fine otherwise. The engine harness is all new according to previous owner.
Pulled the following codes
P1271
P1273
P1274
P1276
P1277
Seems a bit random on the injectors. He believes it may be the wiring between the IDM and the 42 pin going to all the injectors and stuff. Thoughts? Going to try and do some troubleshooting when I get home.

My alternator is bad and I'm looking into getting an new one and a belt replacement. I've got a buddy who gets an employee discount at O'Rileys any nah or say on their refurbished? Should I up the amps from my current stock?

I’ve scoured forums and hoping someone can lend some insight on my situation. 2001 F-350 7.3 Power Stroke.
Starter died a couple months ago, swapped it for a JEGS starter and it was working great. Had a brake caliper lock up and parked the truck for a few weeks until I had time to work on it. Finally swap the brake caliper, go to start the truck and get a terrible grinding noise. Pulled the inspection cover and flex plate is in decent shape all things considered. Charged the batteries, same issue. Pulled the starter and sent it in for warranty. Few weeks go by and install the new starter again. Blue loctite, cleaned connections, charged batteries. Still same issue.
The engine turns by hand with a socket and breaker at the crank pulley. I can also get the flex plate to rotate with some gloved hands.
The starter fires, mates with the flex plate but the flex plate doesn’t even attempt to turn the motor over, almost like it’s fighting it. Any ideas appreciated.

1997 7.3

Manual swapped

Stock auto trans harness still installed (needed 1 pigtail for reverse)

I jumped 2 wires to false the neutral safety switch until I could have PCM reflashed. On test drive, speedometer and odometer were dead. I replaced blown fuse 18 (brake shift interlock, speedometer, selectable RPM control, speed control), truck then activated starter with key in “on” position, not trying to crank. We pulled this fuse and the truck started up fine (and ran like this for the last 6 years).

PCM was just reflashed, IDM tested and reinstalled both, I plugged back in fuse 18, same symptoms, cranking on “on” position. Pulled fuse 18 again and she fired up normally.

A friend of mine thinks the system is back-feeding somewhere… has anyone had this issue before? Looking for a jumping-off point.

I’ve posted before about my husband being killed and me being left with his truck. You guys definitely helped in the past. I was hoping someone could help me solve this issue too.

I’m apparently losing coolant. I know a month ago to five weeks ago it was completely full. When I checked it yesterday, it was almost or was empty. I put a gallon in at that point. I drove about 5 miles and now it looks empty again.

I don’t have any coolant sprayed on the bottom of the truck. I’ve got a small amount of what looks like coolant on the inside of my hood.

I’ve not had any drips or leaks under the hood or on the ground. I have an SCT tuner that I watch constantly. The oil and coolant temperatures have never been further than 12° apart.

The head gasket was supposedly replaced 20 months ago. Heads studded, all of that.

I have no idea what to do. I’m supposed to leave in 48 hours to drive 1500 miles and 1500 miles back, pulling a camper.

Any suggestions I would love to hear them. I’m praying for an easy solutio

I just replaced the water pump in my two thousand two ford f two fifty super duty. In addition to the pump itself, i also replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, and all of the fittings on the pump, as well as the engine temperature sensor. After I got everything reinstalled and reconnected and filled the truck with coolant, the engine temperature on the dashboard always go straight to hot as soon as I turn the key. I'm hesitant to blame the sensor as it is a brand new one from napa, so i'm worried that I might have accidentally crushed a wire or something while I was working on the truck. Has anybody dealt with this issue before? What advice do you have?

As of the last month, my 94’ 7.3 idi has had rough starts where throttle is needed or it will die out. I believe this would have been due to leaky injectors. It now has become hard starts followed by idle around 100-200 rpm and intermittent puffing white smoke from the exhaust similar to a train.

Also when driving it felt as if the turbo was no longer spooling and engine may have been working harder than needed. Assuming this is air intrusion somewhere?

Mainly writing for some confirmation on the thought process I have had to repair this issue. Since I have “concluded” that it’s an air intrusion/leaking injector my thought process is to order a new return line kit and injector tune up. This seems to be the most sensible fix right?

Also, I believe that my vacuum pump may be “ticking”. Maybe I’m just hoping it’s not a rocker arm and praying it’s in a different location. Any advice on this would be appreciated from people with experience on these IDI’s.

Lastly, my front tank has been leaking as of the last week and the pressure gauge does not work when I switch the selector switch to front.

Really hoping I can get some good words of wisdom for this project. I love this truck and would like to maintain it as long as possible.

So I replaced my starter motor for my 2001 7.3 powerstroke and now I have this issue. I'm not cranking it over just have it in the start position. Anyone have an idea of whats going on?

EDIT: drove it around and found the the alternator also went bad.

I am needing to replace my water pump on a 2002 Excursion with a 7.3 powerstroke. The issue I am having is the new water pump has different threads for the upper heater hose nipple. I cannot guarantee that the old pump is OEM, I am making that assumption. Has anyone else experienced this?

P2291 injector control pressure too low engine cranking

P064A manufacturer control

U0109 pump control module

P027a manufacturer control

P025C fuel pump module control circuit low

P0090 fuel pressure regulator control circuit

P0001 fuel Volume regulator control circuit/ open

P0091 fuel pressure regulator 1 control circuit low

Errors appeared simultaneously. What could be the problem? I recently replaced the fuel pressure sensors in the rail and on the injection pump, the fuel pump, and the fuel filters. There were no more than two errors. The car was running, but it was complaining about low fuel pressure, which was artificially reducing power, but it was still drivable. As soon as all these errors came on, I turned off the engine and it hasn't even started since. I see that the wire from the fuel pressure sensor to the injection pump is damaged and needs to be insulated. But I don't think that's the problem. I checked the fuses, they're intact, the fuel is sold in a fine filter, so the pump in the tank is working. I'm wondering what to check next? Don't send it to a service center, I don't have the money, and I still need to figure out the cause first. I can change something myself.