A few months back I built this mudroom built in. The homeowner finally had it painted, it was sprayed, and the painters did a decent job. I was expecting the wall color to be different from the actual piece. Curious what everyone's opinions are on this...

Update to my last post. Its not ai and or temporary. They are for real and proud.

Would like to remove it as I am adding a door to this wall eventually. Figured it was just a brace of some kind to keep the wall square during construction, but am curious since they went to the effort to notch all the studs.

I aligned the rails with the floor boards as I read to do but the post angles are throwing everything off because of the shape of this balcony.

This is a 2x6 wall first floor, framers did split jacks/floating trimmers for all window openings I’m in central California. Will this pass code or have them replace with a full stud up to header?

This is a 6 foot table I designed and built for our 3 season porch. Really happy with it except one lingering question... will it sag? I intentionally left the center leg off for the look, but I'm curious if over time that could have been a mistake. Made from 4/4 poplar and pre-finished ply.

Do you guys remove the pre-installed door stop in order to sneak a few screws in there or do you just Brad nail the heck out of them? Thanks

I'm renovating my 1972 house bathroom and just finished leveling the floor joists. Because I sistered and leveled the joists, the existing wall bottom plates are now slightly lower than the top of the joists, so they won't provide support to the edge of the new subfloor. I'm trying to build this floor as solidly as possible before tiling.

I'll be installing 5/8" T&G plywood, Schluter Ditra Heat, and 24"x24" tile.

Along the left wall, the distance from the edge of the leveled joists to the bottom plate varies between about 5/8" and 1". Since the bottom plate is lower than the joists, the plywood edge won't have full support there.

Would you add a ripped strip of blocking or nailer flush with the top of the joists along that wall, or is this small unsupported edge acceptable?

Also, should I add more blocking anywhere around the perimeter, or does the framing look sufficient as it is?

Thanks!

Hi r/carpentry!

I just got my first tablesaw, I'm so happy.

I was setting it up with my experienced buddy, that tried winging it, while I was reading the manual.

He loosened 2 bolts to attach the riving knife but I pointed out that there is a lever he had to turn to attach the riving knife.

He fastened the bolts again and we attached the riving knife the correct way.

But how important were those bolts?

Do I need to make sure of something before starting a cut?

And yes I am a overthinker.

Thank you in advance for your responses.

cedar shake shingles/siding
my plan is to wire brush off old paint and repaint, and smack in some of the loose nails

any tips or anything i should know before diving in?

I had to re install this door due to someone else’s doing it wrong. In the process of cutting the caulk my ladder slipped in mud and down into a hole which caused me to scratch the door pretty badly. I’ve tried a couple things to fix it but I can’t get it gone. It is a heavy plastic. Anyone have any ideas? I’ve tried plastic polish for golf carts and stuff, as well as a boat repair kit.

I have a new construction home, and the primary bedroom floor has had a ticking noise in the same spot since move-in. The builder’s warranty tech pulled the carpet back and said the plywood subfloor is moving where it meets a floor truss/joist. He said fixing it would require opening the subfloor to secure it. Does that diagnosis make sense, and is that the normal way this type of issue is repaired? Also he said warranty doesn’t cover that repair. Any advice?

I’m a concrete former and am wondering how I may improve my forms

We sometimes use a pump so we add ports to them.

Most of what I’ve learned is self taught.

I’ve more been taught how to design my forms for certain repairs

Columns
Joists
Slabs

Any advice or critic is welcome

Hello,

I’m working on a project very modern style and the architect specified poplar baseboards with a flush reveal to sit under the drywall. It calls for us to use the Fry Reglet Z reveal.

I want to continue the 1/2” Reglet throughout the house including the casing for every door.

I am under the impression that I would need to hang all my doors install the 5/8” casing on top of the jamb that’s flush with the framed opening install casing and then install the Z reveal prior to drywall and flooring.

I would also need to install the Z reveal throughout the home to allow the drywallers to then run their drywall (5/8”) to the Reglet tape and mud to the bead then install my floors and scribe base as needed to keep a 1/2” Reglet spacing.

Am I looking at this correctly or am I missing something in the process?

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop?

Hello!

I am installing a bunch of cedar clapboard on my house. I will need to store it for a few months, while I get a bunch of other prep together (things like licensing, permitting, planning).

Are there any recommendations or advice on how to store it? I will likely not finish this project before winter (I'm in the northeastern us, so subfreezing winters) and will need to store at least some of it until next spring. Can I store raw cedar outside for months? My plan is to put it on cinder blocks with stickers between the boards and then a tarp over it. Is that sensible?

Decided on 1x4 inch trim throughout the house. Finish the majority of the room and did this window last, realizing then that it overhangs the window stool. My first thought was to cut everything back and continue the trim straight down to the floor, but I’m going to have issues with the pipe work on the baseboard heating. Any suggestions?

I’d like to attach the last stud of a load bearing wall to existing framing. Where I want to put it is circled. It’s an old house. I was wondering if it’s ok to just fasten it to the 2x4s with the old siding still attached. The siding is solid, but not all pieces end flush with the old 2x4s. If it’s fine, what size/length fasteners should I use?

Hi everyone,

I’m a first-year carpentry apprentice in Australia, and I’d really appreciate hearing from people who have been through an apprenticeship or now employ apprentices.

I have a few questions:

1. Is it common for apprentices to change companies during their 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th year?

2. Would you generally recommend staying with one company for at least two years, or ideally until completing the full four-year apprenticeship? I know it depends on the company, but I’m thinking about gaining a wider range of experience.

3. I’ve noticed that many apprentices don’t seem to stay with the same company after they qualify as carpenters. Is that actually common?

4. If so, why do people usually leave? Is it because they want more experience, better pay, a different type of work, or simply a change of environment?

5. For someone who has just started their apprenticeship, would you recommend staying with the first employer for at least two years before considering a move?

6. If I decide I want to change employers in the future, is it worth speaking with TAFE, my teachers, or my apprenticeship support organisation (such as BUSY At Work) to help find another employer? Or is it generally better to look for opportunities yourself?

7. If I leave because I want broader experience rather than because of problems with the company, is it still possible to maintain a good relationship with my previous boss? Have any of you done this successfully?

Finally, is there any advice you wish someone had given you when you first started your apprenticeship? Any mistakes to avoid or things you would do differently?
I’d really appreciate any advice or personal experiences. Thanks!

We just put in a driveway and had to take down a few trees. A weekend of mobile sawmilling, and now we have stacks of 2x4 spruce, 2x6 spruce, and lots of 1x4 cedar.

I'm building a shed, and I'd like to avoid buying any engineered wood products since we have the lumber on site.

We get a lot of snow, and the shed base is on cedar skids. Curious what folks would suggest for exterior sheathing in this scenario. It doesn't need to be airtight, just good enough for bikes and garden tools. I have enough 2x4 spruce to frame the walls. Would 1x4 diagonal sheathing be the move? Board-and-batten vertical? (I have some but not a lot of 1x6 cedar)...Thanks!

As the title suggests, how did you or other carpenters you know get into the trade?

I am UK based, trying to work out the best way to start my carpentry career, and would greatly appreciate some advice.

Client has a bunch of doors on a 10 year house, all sticking out a half inch at the bottom when closed. Flush at the top. Hinges look even and installed well. Could it be warping? Solid wood doors. Maybe poor framing? Not sure how to remedy. Rehang completely?

I'm looking for some structural advice.

We have an old farmhouse with a timber floor system. The living room is spanned by 6×8 inch (15×20 cm) wooden joists over a 16.4 ft (5 m) span, spaced 39 inches (100 cm) on center.

Above it is a lightweight attic conversion with drywall partition walls, two small bedrooms, and a bathroom. One of the bedrooms is directly above the living room.

Does this sound like a reasonable structure, or would you recommend having a structural engineer inspect it and possibly reinforce the joists? There are no obvious signs of failure, but I'd like to know whether this framing is typically considered adequate for this kind of load.

Thanks!

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil? If sanding, what grit would be recommended?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop? Going to make sure whatever you is food safe.