A few months back I built this mudroom built in. The homeowner finally had it painted, it was sprayed, and the painters did a decent job. I was expecting the wall color to be different from the actual piece. Curious what everyone's opinions are on this...

Would like to remove it as I am adding a door to this wall eventually. Figured it was just a brace of some kind to keep the wall square during construction, but am curious since they went to the effort to notch all the studs.

This is a 6 foot table I designed and built for our 3 season porch. Really happy with it except one lingering question... will it sag? I intentionally left the center leg off for the look, but I'm curious if over time that could have been a mistake. Made from 4/4 poplar and pre-finished ply.

Update to my last post. Its not ai and or temporary. They are for real and proud.

I aligned the rails with the floor boards as I read to do but the post angles are throwing everything off because of the shape of this balcony.

I'm renovating my 1972 house bathroom and just finished leveling the floor joists. Because I sistered and leveled the joists, the existing wall bottom plates are now slightly lower than the top of the joists, so they won't provide support to the edge of the new subfloor. I'm trying to build this floor as solidly as possible before tiling.

I'll be installing 5/8" T&G plywood, Schluter Ditra Heat, and 24"x24" tile.

Along the left wall, the distance from the edge of the leveled joists to the bottom plate varies between about 5/8" and 1". Since the bottom plate is lower than the joists, the plywood edge won't have full support there.

Would you add a ripped strip of blocking or nailer flush with the top of the joists along that wall, or is this small unsupported edge acceptable?

Also, should I add more blocking anywhere around the perimeter, or does the framing look sufficient as it is?

Thanks!

cedar shake shingles/siding
my plan is to wire brush off old paint and repaint, and smack in some of the loose nails

any tips or anything i should know before diving in?

Securing a concrete tie in HVAC chase inside concrete monolith wall.

Client has a bunch of doors on a 10 year house, all sticking out a half inch at the bottom when closed. Flush at the top. Hinges look even and installed well. Could it be warping? Solid wood doors. Maybe poor framing? Not sure how to remedy. Rehang completely?

Hello!

I am installing a bunch of cedar clapboard on my house. I will need to store it for a few months, while I get a bunch of other prep together (things like licensing, permitting, planning).

Are there any recommendations or advice on how to store it? I will likely not finish this project before winter (I'm in the northeastern us, so subfreezing winters) and will need to store at least some of it until next spring. Can I store raw cedar outside for months? My plan is to put it on cinder blocks with stickers between the boards and then a tarp over it. Is that sensible?

This is a 2x6 wall first floor, framers did split jacks/floating trimmers for all window openings I’m in central California. Will this pass code or have them replace with a full stud up to header?

I had to re install this door due to someone else’s doing it wrong. In the process of cutting the caulk my ladder slipped in mud and down into a hole which caused me to scratch the door pretty badly. I’ve tried a couple things to fix it but I can’t get it gone. It is a heavy plastic. Anyone have any ideas? I’ve tried plastic polish for golf carts and stuff, as well as a boat repair kit.

Decided on 1x4 inch trim throughout the house. Finish the majority of the room and did this window last, realizing then that it overhangs the window stool. My first thought was to cut everything back and continue the trim straight down to the floor, but I’m going to have issues with the pipe work on the baseboard heating. Any suggestions?

I’ve got a 16’ long piece of live edge at roughly 30” wide throughout. Stored indoors for a few months and now the edges have curled up so that the piece rocks on the wood supports it’s been sitting on.

I was going to take the wood supports out and lay it flat on the ground with weights on top in an attempt to make it flat again - but I’m wondering if this is just a lost cause and we should just go right to the planer ?

It’s 2.5” thick so I think we can afford to lose some height if we went the planer route .. I’ve never ever done a piece like this before so any and all tips would be greatly appreciated.

Going to be used as kitchen countertops (hopefully if all turns out well).

I'm looking for some structural advice.

We have an old farmhouse with a timber floor system. The living room is spanned by 6×8 inch (15×20 cm) wooden joists over a 16.4 ft (5 m) span, spaced 39 inches (100 cm) on center.

Above it is a lightweight attic conversion with drywall partition walls, two small bedrooms, and a bathroom. One of the bedrooms is directly above the living room.

Does this sound like a reasonable structure, or would you recommend having a structural engineer inspect it and possibly reinforce the joists? There are no obvious signs of failure, but I'd like to know whether this framing is typically considered adequate for this kind of load.

Thanks!

Jack rafters are nailed directly to the old shingles/sheathing. There is some kind of ledger board but it doesn't seem to be doing much. My YouTube education says there should be sleepers that the rafters rest on. This roof has been like this for 25 years so I guess it must be good enough. Anyone seen something like this before?

I have a new construction home, and the primary bedroom floor has had a ticking noise in the same spot since move-in. The builder’s warranty tech pulled the carpet back and said the plywood subfloor is moving where it meets a floor truss/joist. He said fixing it would require opening the subfloor to secure it. Does that diagnosis make sense, and is that the normal way this type of issue is repaired? Also he said warranty doesn’t cover that repair. Any advice?

Do you guys remove the pre-installed door stop in order to sneak a few screws in there or do you just Brad nail the heck out of them? Thanks

I’m a concrete former and am wondering how I may improve my forms

We sometimes use a pump so we add ports to them.

Most of what I’ve learned is self taught.

I’ve more been taught how to design my forms for certain repairs

Columns
Joists
Slabs

Any advice or critic is welcome

Looking for a little guidance here, we picked these French doors off FBMP and I love them. However, we got them home and lined them up next to each other and the freaking door knobs are uneven in height. This will actually make my eye twitch if I have to look at this every day.

Has anyone ever fixed this issue? Will only a pound of bondo and sanding fix this?

Thank you!

Hello,

I’m working on a project very modern style and the architect specified poplar baseboards with a flush reveal to sit under the drywall. It calls for us to use the Fry Reglet Z reveal.

I want to continue the 1/2” Reglet throughout the house including the casing for every door.

I am under the impression that I would need to hang all my doors install the 5/8” casing on top of the jamb that’s flush with the framed opening install casing and then install the Z reveal prior to drywall and flooring.

I would also need to install the Z reveal throughout the home to allow the drywallers to then run their drywall (5/8”) to the Reglet tape and mud to the bead then install my floors and scribe base as needed to keep a 1/2” Reglet spacing.

Am I looking at this correctly or am I missing something in the process?

I have a butcher block countertop that I'd like to refinish. I believe it's made of beech wood. Over the years, the finish has faded, and there are a couple of cracks around the sink, which I assume are from moisture exposure.

What's the best way to make it look new again? Should I lightly sand the entire surface and then apply mineral oil?

Also, what's the best way to repair the cracks? I've read that epoxy is a good option, but I'd want to use something that's food-safe once it's fully cured. Is epoxy the best approach, or is there a better method for repairing cracks in a butcher block countertop?

Just finished the apprenticeship, took about 3 1/2 years. Wrote my exam last week and got it on the first try. So glad I passed the first time, off to burn my notes and get all you can eat sushi to celebrate.

Feels like my career is truly kicking off now.

I've been trying to get my toe in the door, but nobody wants someone without carpentry experience. How can I make myself look shinier on my resume, so that someone is more willing to give me a chance?

So far I have CSTS certification, but that's about it.

TIA