Hello! After a looong process i have my subwoofer built, installed, banging and booming. The subwoofer is Alpine R2W12-D4 wired @2ohms and paired with MDS torque t5 amplifier. Enclosure volume is at 43 litres or 1,5 ft³ with tuning frequency of 34hz.

The enclosure is made from 30mm or 1 inch 3/16 MDF. All parts were CNC machined, and the enclosure finished with matt white paint and matt lacquer on top. The amplifier board is attached with rubber insulators/absorbers that are screwed to the enclosure with M4 thread inserts.

Really satisfied how it turned out and how well it plays!

I just installed 2 active subs is there a way to control them both with one of these dials?

I.e can I buy some sort of 2-1 splitter

I just picked up a new Wrangler and I’m planning the customary sub install.

For the last 10+ years I’ve always run a single 12” sub in my vehicles (currently an Alpine Type R in one and a Kicker CVX in another), so that’s the sound I’m used to.

To preserve cargo space in the Jeep, I’m considering dual 10” Alpine Type R’s in a pair of side-firing sealed enclosures that meet Alpine’s recommended airspace.

I’ve never owned 10s before, so I’m curious what to expect. Will the low-end extension and “fullness” of a single 12 be significantly less with dual 10s?

I plan on installing a beefy amp, so they will be pushed to max RMS.

Anyone make a similar switch? Any regrets?

On this system at high volumes it would clip in multiple songs and when playing knife talk by drake full tilt the amp goes into protect.

I see online people said do the big three but how much would it help in my case?

Its a Dual 4ohm wired down to 2ohms. skar evl 12 amp tuned with multimeter to 50v

This is my first setup and would appreciate any recommendations.
With stuff like agm batteries and a new alternator my budget is tight so im trying to stray away from those right now.

bought this truck without working rear speakers, it has a giant chinese tesla screen.

Hi there I bought this sub recently and was curious on if this sound is ok.

seller asking $150 for both

Like I said I have a s10 but don’t really know what audio options are good and worth it. I’ve seen good stuff on crutch field but my s10 ain’t a show car it’s just a daily and I don’t need to break my pockets with top of the line stuff I’m just looking for Bluetooth really but wouldn’t mind having a screen with a back up cam or sum. I think I have a din and a half radio currently but I just can’t find any that look reliable. My prices range is 100-200 preferably but I’ll spend a lil more if it’s got a lot of options.

Preface: I know nothing about cars or electronics.

I just bought an old 2012 Hyundai i30 and I’m thinking about replacing the radio with a modern touch screen head unit setup.

I’ve had a long chat with Claude about it and apparently this is a single din console. I’ve seen some single din options on Amazon and eBay but I’m not sure that a floating arm and protruding screen will work with the vents and volume and tuning knobs.

Can anyone confirm if this is single din? And if so should I aim for a single din replacement or is a double din replacement also viable and relatively easy to install? Am I being crazy thinking this is a DIY job?

Any advice on models, single vs double din and DIY vs shop job appreciated! I’m in Southern Germany if it matters at all.

Hello! I’m looking to upgrade the sound system in my 2018 Ford Fiesta ST (MK8), but I find that there is already some rattle in the door cards at high volumes with the standard sound system. Is there anything I can do to minimise this rattle? I’d love to have a more premium sound, but this will unfortunately be overshadowed if everything is rattling!

Hi all,

Looking into a sub for my setup. I have the 2 KEY Kicker amps with autotune DSP: 50 x 4 @ 4 ohms for the front comps and 500 x 1 @ 1 ohm for the sub. Hoping to grab a single 15" to get the lower lows. Will run the sub on 500 RMS. No other speakers involved.

No real hard budget within reason. Not sure it matters, but running speaker level inputs from rear doors. Any recommendations for a single 15" with decent SQ that would do decently on 500 watts RMS in a smallish sealed box? I mostly listen to dance type stuff, house, trance, dnb, and then also hip hop type music. Thanks all for any insight!

I am replacing the door speakers in my 2004 Subaru Outback and I am planning to power them through an amp. My goal is to create a premium system that is fun to listen to, nothing crazy. A had a few questions:

- How much power can I push through the factory door speaker wiring? I wasn't planning to install new speaker wire (yet)

- I have seen you can set gain using a multimeter, can I do that if I'm not going to run full power from the amp?

Here is what I am planning to install:

- Headunit: Kenwoord DPX304MBT (already have installed)

- 4 Channel Amp: NVX NDA6004

- Front Speakers: JBL GTO 609c

- Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 629

I am planning to build a custom fiberglass enclosure (like the one I built 10 years ago pictured above) and switch subs, but this is what I have currently:

- Subwoofer: Rockville 10" (already have installed, will replace later)

- Mono Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D (already have installed)

I’ll try to keep it short, and add detail as it’s it’s asked for I guess. I may need to repost later…

DSP is in my trunk with the spare tire in my 2022 Mazda cx30.

I’m on DSP #4. This was professionally installed.

The DSP is the Twk88 by JL.

I’m pretty sure the issue is extreme heat in that spare tire area.

Any ideas on how to fix cooling this space? There’s cutouts in the foam inserts around the spare tire where the DSP and crossovers live. Perhaps I just need to move them all together somehow… any help appreciated.

Will try to add photos soon.

Curious if anybody has gone with this audio package and if they are happy with it.

Not sure if this is the right group but I'm installing an aftermarket screen with backup camera. Connecting the wires for the speakers and realized the instructions have a solid purple wire + and purple/black wire -, but their is a 2nd solid purple wire that isn't shown on the diagram.

I'm assuming this is extra for a double speaker setup? Should i tie it in with the other solid purple connection? Or just cap it off? Thanks!

I have a Stereo Integrity SQL12v2(1000 wats RMS running at 1ohm) in a 1 cu ft sealed box(this is the maximum spec size for sealed). I was powering it with a Sundown SFB 1000d, which is a full range amplifier, and it sounded really good(gain settings done with a multimeter to get 1000 watts using a 0db 40hz test tone), but I thought I might be leaving some performance on the table, so I upgraded to a Sundown SAEv4 1500d. I figured having a little head room was a good idea and that it should sound a little better not being full range and all.

Well, I got the new amp, set everything up(again with a multimeter), set my LPF(about 100hz) and subsonic filter(at 30hz) the same as the previous amp, and when I went to listen to a song that I know very well, the harder bass essentially cut out. I went and looked at the sub and it was flexing like crazy but the sound was cutting out(over excursion, unloading?). No Clipping or flapping sounds or anything though. Never seen anything like it.

My first thought was, more powerful, more efficient amp, I must be sending it too much power(even though people online say they send these subs much more power than rated). So I backed the gain down to 900 watts. Now it doesn't do the weird distortion anymore but it is noticeably quiet compared to when I was running the other amp.

I checked my ground, checked for voltage drop, everything I can think of but nothing seems out of place. I tried it again at 1000 watts with the subsonic filter off since I read online that sealed boxes typically don't need them and it did the same thing. For fear of damaging my sub I dialed it back down and haven't been pushing it since then. My only other thought is that I am currently running it in a crappy prefab enclosure and maybe the higher performance is causing the box to leak air and causing some kind of unloading. Could this be?

Anyone have any insight into what's happening? I am in the process of getting a custom built box, but I can't imagine that's the problem since all the parameters are exactly the same except a different amp.

Hi I'm wondering if there's a really good site where you can design your own subwoofer boxes, both port and 6th order bandpass boxes. I've heard of subbox pro, but come on... preferably not chat gpt please. if you're wondering what I'm playing with for bass. MM audio team 12"d2, 5krms, 2x2ohm, 30mm +/- xmax, fs 44,8, qms 3,437, qes 0,414, qts 0,37, vas 9.165, spl 85.

I am looking for a wiring diagram, or just someone who has some experience with tapping into the rear door speakers for an amp/sub setup in a 2025 Impreza Sport? I figure it's probably the same on all 2024+ Imprezas and Crosstreks. Im thinking of going into the little spine between the driver's side front and back doors. I hear the cables run thru there. Can anyone break this down for me or point me to a post that does so? Because of AI, the answers I'm getting on google are never actually what I'm looking for. I see some similarities between the information, but I want to be 100% sure before I tap into a cable. I have positaps Does anyone know the rear speaker colors for positive and negative? It would help a lot.

Also, I have a multimeter, but haven't really learned how to use it yet, if nobody knows the speaker cable colors, can someone explain how to test it with a multi meter?

I have a 2017 sierra without the on star features. I can’t get OnStar installed since it’s only done in the factory. My stereo is the little 4 inch screen without Bluetooth and I’ve been looking to upgrade it but all i can find on the internet are android junk machines that I’m not sure I trust. I was told about integration modules (called like datalink or something) but it seems like something I might not me able to do without flashing capabilities. Anyone have advice on reliable alternatives?
Budget of around 1200

People rave about their 4” mid speaker, but has anyone installed their full 3-way set with DSP? The price to buy their 3-way set is much more economical than assembling a 3-way system with the 4”. Has anyone used these? I legitimately can’t find a review on them, but it may just be that they’re more popular in Europe.

I am looking to make a modest upgrade to my factory stereo system. I am not looking for any more volume but I don't want to lose any either. Bass already sounds pretty decent, I listen mostly to rock, alternative and pop. I only want to spend a couple hundred bucks and not touch the factory amp or head unit. It is a 2021 wrangler.

It has the factory premium alpine system with an amplifier rated at 46 watts X 12 channels at 2 ohms (4 channels go to the single 10" sub) . I am finding mixed results if this is rms or peak but I'm pretty sure it's peak.

Front and rear have a 4 1/2” mid bass and a 3 1/2” speaker.  The front 4 1/2 is pretty challenging to remove so I plan on leaving it.

The rear speakers are just behind the drivers head in a soundbar enclousure. The rear speakers can be replaced by a 6 1/2 component set or a 6x9. But then I would be leaving two amplifier channels unused. Plus there is no going back to stock and the adapter alone is almost $100. 

Since I'm sticking with the factory amp I figure sensitivity and Ohms is pretty important. I found three options for the dash for under $100. Thoughts?

JBL Club 322F – 3.5" -- 3 ohm, sens, 89

JBL gx302 - 3.5" -- 2.3 ohm, sens, 89

Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" -- 3 ohm sens, 91

Also open to suggestions on the rear sound bar. I am considering adding sound deadening and polyfill for starters, and maybe to the factory sub enclosure as well.

Ok, to make a long story short, I purchased a new (used) car (2013 Subru Impreza) about ~ 2 years ago. When I purchased the vehicle, one of the only things I noticed that was "wrong" with it was that the front passenger side speaker sounded blown/buzzy/harsh/ crappy. So one of the first things I did was go to an audio shop and have them install 4 new door speakers. This was a great improvement from the factory speakers. However intermentally, I would still hear the highs sounding harsh/distorted, especially in rock/metal songs. So, I take it into another audio shop and have them install a new headunit (an alpine) along with a Sub and amp (the sub and amp are great) thinking that maybe there was an issue with the headunit (also, I wanted to upgrade anyways).

After this, for about a month or so, everything sounded pretty great, however occasionally I would still hear the harshness/distortion from the highs coming from the same speaker location at random times. Thinking maybe I might have blown a speaker (or, that I just didnt like the sound of the speakers), I went ahead and did some research and got myself some JBLs 64SQs and installed those myself, along with new mounting brackets. This did not make the issue better and, in fact, it made it worse (likely due to my unskilled wiring) and I started getting crackling and popping, on top of the intermittent harshness in the highs.

However, when I was installing the speakers, I did notice that some of the wires on the factory wireing harness were *badly* oxidized (like, brown brown instead of copper color). Thinking that this is likely the root of the issue, I went ahead and got some good 16ga OFC wire, and took it into another shop, and had them to a complete factory wireing bypass directly from the headunit to the speakers. This was a week ago. When I received the car back, upon pick up everything sounded great, the crackling and popping were gone and I was happy and hopeful that solved the issue with the harshness I was hearing in the highs intermittently out of that speaker.

That was not to last, though, and it doesn't seem like it solved the problem completely. Yesterday, for example, everything sounds fantastic and I even showed off the system to a buddy who said it was the cleanest, tightest system he has heard in a long time (and yesterday I agreed with him) however this morning on the way to work, the highs coming out of that speaker sound harsh again (metallic and "scratchy" sounding). One thing I *did* notice *this morning* is that when I turn my windshield wipers on, I get static noises out of that speaker, and that noise stops as soon as I turn the wipers off. Another thing is that it seems to get a tiny bit better if I turn my AC off as well.

And I am not sure where to go from here. I dont want to keep tossing money at the issue for it continue to be a problem. My next thought is that I need to redo the factory ground, but I dont understand why it's only impacting one location. My other thought is perhaps its a voltage issue and I need to replace my alternator (which i intend to put a 240 amp high performance alternator in there anyways)

Has anyone else experienced a similar issue or have any suggestions on what else I could possibly do? The biggest most frustrating aspect of this is that when I have time to go take it into a shop to have them hear whats going on to try and diagnois the issue, the system sounds generally great, so I keep getting looked at like I am nuts.

Any help/suggestions/insight would be greatly appreciated.

I've just upgraded my head unit to a Sony xav9000es, and my phone is a pixel 10 pro xl.

Can I really not have android auto just running my music and car monitoring apps, whilst still using Waze on my phone in a phone holder?

From looking into it, AA stops any map apps displaying a map on the phone when Android Auto is connected to the head unit.

Are there no ways around this? Official channels or homebrew solutions

I just prefer having my map within my straight ahead vision rather than looking down and towards the centre console.

Hello

Im having the astra h twintop 2008. Atm I have jbl stage 3 speakers at the front and back. Due to the little available space tho im having trouble on finding a good amp and sub.