Hello! After a looong process i have my subwoofer built, installed, banging and booming. The subwoofer is Alpine R2W12-D4 wired @2ohms and paired with MDS torque t5 amplifier. Enclosure volume is at 43 litres or 1,5 ft³ with tuning frequency of 34hz.

The enclosure is made from 30mm or 1 inch 3/16 MDF. All parts were CNC machined, and the enclosure finished with matt white paint and matt lacquer on top. The amplifier board is attached with rubber insulators/absorbers that are screwed to the enclosure with M4 thread inserts.

Really satisfied how it turned out and how well it plays!

On this system at high volumes it would clip in multiple songs and when playing knife talk by drake full tilt the amp goes into protect.

I see online people said do the big three but how much would it help in my case?

Its a Dual 4ohm wired down to 2ohms. skar evl 12 amp tuned with multimeter to 50v

This is my first setup and would appreciate any recommendations.
With stuff like agm batteries and a new alternator my budget is tight so im trying to stray away from those right now.

edit: thanks for all the help

after dropping the crossover to about 80hz and backing off the gain a little it stopped clipping

seller asking $150 for both

Hello! I’m looking to upgrade the sound system in my 2018 Ford Fiesta ST (MK8), but I find that there is already some rattle in the door cards at high volumes with the standard sound system. Is there anything I can do to minimise this rattle? I’d love to have a more premium sound, but this will unfortunately be overshadowed if everything is rattling!

Current set up
1 Headunit: JVC KW-M590BT
2. Subwoofer: Rockford fosgate P500-12P
3. Amplifier: Hertz CP4.800
4. Speakers X4: Hertz MPX165.3 6.5 COAX.
1996 Toyota Tacoma
Let me start by saying I’m very very far from a a CarAV expert.
I started this build a few months ago and I’m just about done. I’m going to buy more sound deadening to fill in the door gaps, buy foam rings for the speakers and also seal around the speaker mounting brackets. I tuned the amp with my multimeter and believe I properly tuned/programmed the head unit.

My questions are

1. Will sealing holes in door improve miss and overall SQ?
2. How does the settings/programming on headunit and amp look to you experts?
3. What other improvements could I possibly make?

EDIT: That picture of subs Xover setting is old I lowered it slightly.

Hello, mild car AV enthusiast here!

I have a 2010 Honda Fit, great little car. The previous owner put in an aftermarket radio which is dual branded. I know these radios aren't the best, I looked it up its pretty low power. Overall, the radio is good, carplay but its not powerful enough for my speakers it seems.

I put Rockford Fosgate R165 X3 not too long ago. The speakers sound good, but at high volume they sound not good. Would it make sense to put in a 4 channel amp? I've never used one before but have installed subwoofers before so I understand the concept. Would this be a good or dumb idea? lol

Like I said I have a s10 but don’t really know what audio options are good and worth it. I’ve seen good stuff on crutch field but my s10 ain’t a show car it’s just a daily and I don’t need to break my pockets with top of the line stuff I’m just looking for Bluetooth really but wouldn’t mind having a screen with a back up cam or sum. I think I have a din and a half radio currently but I just can’t find any that look reliable. My prices range is 100-200 preferably but I’ll spend a lil more if it’s got a lot of options.

Curious if anybody has gone with this audio package and if they are happy with it.

I just picked up a new Wrangler and I’m planning the customary sub install.

For the last 10+ years I’ve always run a single 12” sub in my vehicles (currently an Alpine Type R in one and a Kicker CVX in another), so that’s the sound I’m used to.

To preserve cargo space in the Jeep, I’m considering dual 10” Alpine Type R’s in a pair of side-firing sealed enclosures that meet Alpine’s recommended airspace.

I’ve never owned 10s before, so I’m curious what to expect. Will the low-end extension and “fullness” of a single 12 be significantly less with dual 10s?

I plan on installing a beefy amp, so they will be pushed to max RMS.

Anyone make a similar switch? Any regrets?

Both in the spare tire well, civic si. Living in northeastern us. Amp is a jensen xda91rb powering 2 12 inch Sony xplods.

All right, I recently installed a Kenwood DMX8709S in my 2007 Hummer H3 Base with the Monsoon system. I am using the CRUX SOOGM-15 interface and a Pixel 9a running Android 16.

The main issue is that Android Auto keeps disconnecting and reconnecting. Sometimes it seems to work fine, and other times it becomes extremely finicky. I checked the firmware on the Kenwood, and as far as I can tell, everything is fully up to date.

I just got off the phone with Crutchfield. I have a limited amount of time to return this radio and use the replacement, but installing it was a massive pain. Before I pull the dash apart and do the entire installation again, I want to make extra sure the radio is actually defective.

What should I test to figure out whether this is the Kenwood, my phone, the Android Auto software, the USB connection, wireless interference, or something in the installation? Has anyone had this problem specifically with the DMX8709S?

I also do not have factory steering-wheel controls. I really need some kind of tactile volume control because using the touchscreen while driving is terrible. Has anyone used an Axxess RFASWC or another physical remote with this Kenwood? I would be fine with buttons or a small knob mounted to the steering wheel or dash. I mainly need volume up, volume down, and preferably pause or skip.

Basically, I am trying to figure out whether I actually need to replace this radio before my return window closes, and what physical control options will work with it.

People rave about their 4” mid speaker, but has anyone installed their full 3-way set with DSP? The price to buy their 3-way set is much more economical than assembling a 3-way system with the 4”. Has anyone used these? I legitimately can’t find a review on them, but it may just be that they’re more popular in Europe.

This is a car I am working on (unrelated to the stereo.)

I just thought you all would appreciate the install. My personal favourite part is the fuse AFTER running through the door jam lol

Hi there I bought this sub recently and was curious on if this sound is ok.

Not sure if this is the right group but I'm installing an aftermarket screen with backup camera. Connecting the wires for the speakers and realized the instructions have a solid purple wire + and purple/black wire -, but their is a 2nd solid purple wire that isn't shown on the diagram.

I'm assuming this is extra for a double speaker setup? Should i tie it in with the other solid purple connection? Or just cap it off? Thanks!

I have a Stereo Integrity SQL12v2(1000 wats RMS running at 1ohm) in a 1 cu ft sealed box(this is the maximum spec size for sealed). I was powering it with a Sundown SFB 1000d, which is a full range amplifier, and it sounded really good(gain settings done with a multimeter to get 1000 watts using a 0db 40hz test tone), but I thought I might be leaving some performance on the table, so I upgraded to a Sundown SAEv4 1500d. I figured having a little head room was a good idea and that it should sound a little better not being full range and all.

Well, I got the new amp, set everything up(again with a multimeter), set my LPF(about 100hz) and subsonic filter(at 30hz) the same as the previous amp, and when I went to listen to a song that I know very well, the harder bass essentially cut out. I went and looked at the sub and it was flexing like crazy but the sound was cutting out(over excursion, unloading?). No Clipping or flapping sounds or anything though. Never seen anything like it.

My first thought was, more powerful, more efficient amp, I must be sending it too much power(even though people online say they send these subs much more power than rated). So I backed the gain down to 900 watts. Now it doesn't do the weird distortion anymore but it is noticeably quiet compared to when I was running the other amp.

I checked my ground, checked for voltage drop, everything I can think of but nothing seems out of place. I tried it again at 1000 watts with the subsonic filter off since I read online that sealed boxes typically don't need them and it did the same thing. For fear of damaging my sub I dialed it back down and haven't been pushing it since then. My only other thought is that I am currently running it in a crappy prefab enclosure and maybe the higher performance is causing the box to leak air and causing some kind of unloading. Could this be?

Anyone have any insight into what's happening? I am in the process of getting a custom built box, but I can't imagine that's the problem since all the parameters are exactly the same except a different amp.

Hi I'm wondering if there's a really good site where you can design your own subwoofer boxes, both port and 6th order bandpass boxes. I've heard of subbox pro, but come on... preferably not chat gpt please. if you're wondering what I'm playing with for bass. MM audio team 12"d2, 5krms, 2x2ohm, 30mm +/- xmax, fs 44,8, qms 3,437, qes 0,414, qts 0,37, vas 9.165, spl 85.

I just installed 2 active subs is there a way to control them both with one of these dials?

I.e can I buy some sort of 2-1 splitter

I am looking for a wiring diagram, or just someone who has some experience with tapping into the rear door speakers for an amp/sub setup in a 2025 Impreza Sport? I figure it's probably the same on all 2024+ Imprezas and Crosstreks. Im thinking of going into the little spine between the driver's side front and back doors. I hear the cables run thru there. Can anyone break this down for me or point me to a post that does so? Because of AI, the answers I'm getting on google are never actually what I'm looking for. I see some similarities between the information, but I want to be 100% sure before I tap into a cable. I have positaps Does anyone know the rear speaker colors for positive and negative? It would help a lot.

Also, I have a multimeter, but haven't really learned how to use it yet, if nobody knows the speaker cable colors, can someone explain how to test it with a multi meter?

I have a 2017 sierra without the on star features. I can’t get OnStar installed since it’s only done in the factory. My stereo is the little 4 inch screen without Bluetooth and I’ve been looking to upgrade it but all i can find on the internet are android junk machines that I’m not sure I trust. I was told about integration modules (called like datalink or something) but it seems like something I might not me able to do without flashing capabilities. Anyone have advice on reliable alternatives?
Budget of around 1200

I am looking to make a modest upgrade to my factory stereo system. I am not looking for any more volume but I don't want to lose any either. Bass already sounds pretty decent, I listen mostly to rock, alternative and pop. I only want to spend a couple hundred bucks and not touch the factory amp or head unit. It is a 2021 wrangler.

It has the factory premium alpine system with an amplifier rated at 46 watts X 12 channels at 2 ohms (4 channels go to the single 10" sub) . I am finding mixed results if this is rms or peak but I'm pretty sure it's peak.

Front and rear have a 4 1/2” mid bass and a 3 1/2” speaker.  The front 4 1/2 is pretty challenging to remove so I plan on leaving it.

The rear speakers are just behind the drivers head in a soundbar enclousure. The rear speakers can be replaced by a 6 1/2 component set or a 6x9. But then I would be leaving two amplifier channels unused. Plus there is no going back to stock and the adapter alone is almost $100. 

Since I'm sticking with the factory amp I figure sensitivity and Ohms is pretty important. I found three options for the dash for under $100. Thoughts?

JBL Club 322F – 3.5" -- 3 ohm, sens, 89

JBL gx302 - 3.5" -- 2.3 ohm, sens, 89

Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" -- 3 ohm sens, 91

Also open to suggestions on the rear sound bar. I am considering adding sound deadening and polyfill for starters, and maybe to the factory sub enclosure as well.

2025 Camry, non JBL speakers. I replaced the dash, front, and rear door speakers with all kicker ks speakers and just installed a beat sonic 2na-2t3 amp yesterday.

At first, because I'm a newbie to car audio, I only installed the speakers and didn't know you need an amp, so the sound was rightfully worse than the factory speakers, better clarity and sound quality overall but very thin sounding bass. After looking online some more, people were saying you need an amp. After yesterday's install of the amp and sound test, it sounds almost the same, good clarity but no bass. When i turn up the equalizer for bass, its "there" but sounds terrible, nothing akin to what i was getting before with the factory speakers. I turned both gain knobs to the right to about 2-3 o clock and it doesn't seem to affect the bass.

I plugged this issue into ChatGPT and am told that it could possibly be a wiring issue, positive connector to negative terminal but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be positive to positive, negative to negative. It's even hard to miss because the positive terminals on the speaker are bigger than the negative terminal, so you just connect the bigger connector to the bigger terminal and same for the negative. I'm not fond of checking my wiring however because it was a lot of work for me the first time, took 3 hours for the install but if I have to check, I will.

What am I missing here? I followed a YouTube video and feel like I didn't miss anything. The speakers work, the amp works, I just don't know why the bass sounds so terrible compared to the factory speakers. someone please help a newbie here, I don't know what I'm doing.