Had to cut this one open today.

Nothing was wrong with it. Everything checked out.

Still feels a little strange cutting up a finished part that was ready to go ..

Just one of those things you have to do sometimes.

Please guess this is what machine, now have 8 cnc machine but the job suddenly drop down how u all find a new customer I at Malaysia 💔

Problem solved!

Any ideas how to recover it safely? I would rather not have it dropped from that position.

The machine is stuck in the tool change loop.

Does anyone happen to have the OEMCY1/2/3 and Blum touch off and calibration files? DMG doesn’t have the files due to the age of machine. Company that owned it before but the wrong backup.

Do you all only use the provided Renishaw macros?

My shop is new to probing and we want to use it for a robotic arm soon. We want to probe angles on a 5x mill table to square up the part and stuff like that. I don't think it would be that hard for me to make some custom macros that do some trig to set C offsets. Also we want to make some custom inspection macros for parts as well.

What have you all done?

What is the industry standard in this regard?

Follow-up to my earlier post about the parametric wall designer. A few people

asked how the AI part actually works day to day, so here's the workflow with

screenshots.

**Step 1 — describe it.** Click AI Design, type *"waves at the bottom forming a

bench you can sit on"*. It sets the dimensions, wood colour, relief layers, slat

spacing — and shows you exactly which parameters it touched, as chips (2400 ×

2000 mm, 120 mm depth, oak swatch, wave pattern). Nothing hidden.

**Step 2 — talk to it.** There's a robot button at the bottom right. You say

*"make the relief much deeper"* and it changes ONE thing: depth went 120 → 200

mm. The pattern, spacing, colour, everything else stays identical — see the

side-view before/after. One click undoes it.

As far as I know this is the first parametric wall generator with

conversational editing — happy to be corrected if someone knows another.

The part that matters for this sub: **the LLM never writes G-code.** It only

outputs bounded parameters (a wall can't be 40 m wide, a slat can't be narrower

than your bit). The deterministic engine — radius compensation, tabs, nesting —

generates the actual toolpaths, same as before. And it refuses figurative

requests honestly: ask for a skull and it tells you to use a grayscale

heightmap instead of faking it.

Free to design in the browser; the AI gives one free generation, then it's in

the paid plan ($4.90/mo) — saying it up front. Dev here, ask me anything.

https://btporganizer.tech

Hi everyone,
I am looking for advice from the CNC and injection molding experts here on how to achieve an internal knurling pattern inside a mold cavity.

• Mold Material: Aluminum
• Cavity Dimensions: 5mm deep and 90mm long (Actual piece is 10mm x 90mm)

I have attached a few reference images. Here are my specific questions:

Q1: Is there a standard, reliable industry technique to put a knurling pattern inside a semi-cylindrical cavity like the one shown in the first picture? (e.g., EDM, laser texturing, etc.)

Q2: If not, would I be able to mill this knurling pattern directly into the cavity using a custom single-lip tool/form cutter on a 5-axis machine? My primary concern is managing the tool path and clean finish along the parting line edges (shown in the second picture).

Q3: If CNC milling the solid block is impossible, can I split the block into a multi-piece mold inserts? The third picture shows a 4-piece split cavity bolted together to form a 2-cavity block (with the injection gate located at the center hole). This creates 4 parting lines per cavity. Beyond flash and alignment, what major issues or point of failures will this cause during injection molding?

So the desktop 5 axis CNC space went from crickets to a crowd real fast. Maybe four companies are running crowdfunding campaigns right now, all chasing the same niche. Been watching this for a while, figured I'd share my thought process.

Full disclosure, I actually backed the xhorse wm100 early on. Back then there weren't as many options. But months turned into more months, every update was some version of soon, and eventually my confidence just wore down. When more players showed up, I went back to the drawing board.

Some YouTuber's video popped up covering a desktop 5 axis CNC company, infimaker apparently. I hadn't heard of them before that. The guy actually visited the facility in person and showed the real machine running, which got me curious enough to look into the company myself. I ended up digging around, and a few things stood out to me.

The structure is what got me first. The spindle is mounted straight down instead of off to the side like a lot of these machines do. Apparently, that keeps gravity and the cutting force working together instead of pulling against each other. Less chatter, I guess. The base is one single cast piece too, not bolted plates. It feels like it'd hold up better under load. I didn't dig too deep into the engineering specifics, just went off what made sense to me.

The ATC is another thing that stood out. They're claiming five tool stations plus one for the probe, all switching automatically. I used to only see this on bigger machines from what I know. Most machines in this class still make you probe manually even with automated tool changes. If it actually works as advertised, that's a real time saver for a one person shop that can't babysit the machine all day. I'll believe it when I see it running consistently, though.

But the software is what got me most. I watched their infistudio demo, and it genuinely looked easier to use than I expected. I don't know exactly how it's doing the math behind the scenes, but it seemed like it actually looks at your part first, stock size, model shape, and what angles you'd need to hit, then works out a path from there instead of just throwing generic toolpaths at it. For anything complex, you'd still want to eyeball the orientation before running it, but everything's adjustable before you hit run, so you're always the one making the final call. You're also not locked to their software either. It'll take G code from fusion if that's what you're already using. My CAM skills are nothing to write home about, so that head start is a big deal.

That said, I'm not wearing rose colored glasses here. It's a brand new company. Long term support, parts availability, firmware updates, all of that is still an open question. I'll be watching how things go once units actually start landing in people's hands.

Anyone else looking at this space or already backed something? Would love to hear how other people are weighing their options.

Hey everyone, hope all of your days are going great!

Things to get ahead of: I’ve cut mother of pearl with this machine successfully before. I did it dry with an open door in the garage, dust boot, and then mopped when it was done. I also left the room while it was cutting. I’m never in the garage without a good (I believe p100) mask. I’d like to do something that lets me work while it’s cutting

I’m wondering if anyone with a Onefinity has made a water tray set up for cutting somewhat dangerous things and what you’ve learned in the process. Dos and don’t type stuff.

My plan is this so far: I made a good acrylic tray that’s EXTRA wide to provide more room for splashing. It also has 2 inch tall walls for the same purpose (I know that’s not perfect. I’ll be cutting mother of pearl in the center of the tray (very small surface area). The entire spoil baked will be lined with parchment paper, the same thing I do when cutting brass with cutting fluid, and it works mostly. Honestly cutting ebony can leave far more oil on the spoil board.

I edited my tool path and ran a test to keep the tool away from the walls, but also am considering letting it end simply by moving 1-2mm above the piece and stopping. Why the stop there? I think I might have a benefit for using a temp self made dust boot but without vacuuming, basically acting as another splash guard. I will also be oiling the rails a bit excessively before this process to let them act as some level of protectant. Should be close
To 20 hours total cutting time spread across 2 days

My big worries are splashes on the machine rails or bearings. I’m fully capable of taking parts of the machine apart and cleaning them up. Probably not a bad idea maybe once or twice a year to extend its lifespan anyway.

If anybody could share a print file (stl) for er40 collets with different sized shanks, I.e. 7/16” etc, it would be greatly appreciated

Hey everyone, hope all of your days are going great!

Things to get ahead of: I’ve cut mother of pearl with this machine successfully before. I did it dry with an open door in the garage, dust boot, and then mopped when it was done. I also left the room while it was cutting. I’m never in the garage without a good (I believe p100) mask. I’d like to do something that lets me work while it’s cutting

I’m wondering if anyone with a Onefinity has made a water tray set up for cutting somewhat dangerous things and what you’ve learned in the process. Dos and don’t type stuff.

My plan is this so far: I made a good acrylic tray that’s EXTRA wide to provide more room for splashing. It also has 2 inch tall walls for the same purpose (I know that’s not perfect. I’ll be cutting mother of pearl in the center of the tray (very small surface area). The entire spoil baked will be lined with parchment paper, the same thing I do when cutting brass with cutting fluid, and it works mostly. Honestly cutting ebony can leave far more oil on the spoil board.

I edited my tool path and ran a test to keep the tool away from the walls, but also am considering letting it end simply by moving 1-2mm above the piece and stopping. Why the stop there? I think I might have a benefit for using a temp self made dust boot but without vacuuming, basically acting as another splash guard. I will also be oiling the rails a bit excessively before this process to let them act as some level of protectant. Should be close
To 20 hours total cutting time spread across 2 days

My big worries are splashes on the machine rails or bearings. I’m fully capable of taking parts of the machine apart and cleaning them up. Probably not a bad idea maybe once or twice a year to extend its lifespan anyway.

Hi everyone,

This is my first time posting in r/CNC. Until now I've mostly been active over in r/hobbycnc, but I think this project belongs here now.

We're a small company based in the EU, and after spending the last few years building smaller CNC machines, we've started work on our first true industrial VMC. The design is around 90% complete, and if everything goes according to plan we'll finish the design this month and order parts for the first three prototypes.

The goal is simple: build a machine that can compete with entry-level VMCs like HAAS MiniMills while offering more modern hardware and higher-end components without moving into a completely different price bracket.

Another design goal is serviceability and transport. The enclosure is designed to be easily disassembled so the machine can fit through a standard industrial doorway instead of requiring major building modifications.

Current specifications (still subject to change):

• Travels: 410 × 340 × 400 mm
• 5 kW BTT30 belt driven spindle
• 12,000 RPM
• 1 / 1.5 / 2.5 kW (Z with brake) servo motors
• 30 mm high-preload linear guides
• 25 mm DFU ball screws
• 30 - 60m/min rapids (to be confirmed)
• 780 × 320 mm table with three 14 mm T-slots, grounded surface
• Approx. 1,600 kg machine weight (to be confirmed)
• Mineral cast main frame
• Heidenhain TNC7 Basic control

Some features we're planning as standard:

• Heidenhain TNC7 Basic controller
• Heidenhain linear scales on all axes
• Industrial components from suppliers such as Festo, Phoenix Contact and Rittal
• Through-spindle coolant preparation from the factory for easy future retrofit

Planned options include:

• Through-spindle coolant
• Oil-based thermal management for the spindle
• Chip conveyor
• Automation interface on the right side of the machine
• Higher-accuracy linear scales for ultra-precision applications
• and of course the standard stuff, probing, workholding, etc etc..

I'm posting here because I'd genuinely appreciate feedback from people who run CNC machines every day. Feel free to be critical—I'd rather hear about potential weaknesses now than after the prototypes are built.

What would you change?
What do you think we're overlooking?
And what features would you expect from a machine in this class?

Hello folks, I welcome you all to Project Silvern!

I have talked and included more details about the project in the video!

TImelapse: https://youtu.be/nFZq6mRlkZg?si=VzFpyvjMhtbbZ5kn

This journey pushed me to unimaginable ends... It has taught me more about designing and manufacturing skills!

Design feature of case:

-Every single panel is 10mm aluminum panel

-3x Armor distroplate with one having a D5 pump integrated

-Capable of 2x 360mm radiator at the bottom

-Custom cable combs

-Mainly fitted for ATX size Motherboard

-Universal Vertical GPU mount

-Fits full size PSU

Welcome to reach out of me for custom cnc services.

More jobs we made: https://www.instagram.com/nash.prototype/

Hypermill, 5x helical drilling. 12k RPM, 200ipm on DMG dmu 75

Okay so currently I’m an intern at this company where I have the only sort of knowledge with CADing and CAMing so they tasked me with machine this one bracket thing but after a bit of butting our heads together we and my supervisors can’t find away to CAM it on Fusion360. I am trying to machine this slope out with a 1/4” ball end mill but for some reason any program or pathing I try to do either end up sloppy or won’t even cut it at all, any suggestions on what tools I can use to get this done? Even if I need to buy a new ball mill we have the funds to do that.

I built this as a birthday gift for my wife.

She is addicted to the Flightradar24 app, and anytime she hears a loud plane or helicopter she immediately checks to see what it is. I figured it would be interesting to build something that could sit on her desk and show the aircraft around the house.

The first versions of the enclosure were 3D printed so I could work through the size, screen position and overall shape. Once the design was close, I started machining the final version from billet aluminum and 304 Stainless.

The case, electronics, graphics, software and interface were all developed from scratch. There were plenty of changes along the way, including screen crashes, memory problems, Wi-Fi issues and several versions of the enclosure.

The front plate was CNC machined and engraved, then labeled Prototype-01 since it is the first complete unit.

Video of the finished unit:
https://youtube.com/shorts/63M9hnAyUlk?si=lpvTPUuPOxt8ad-_