I’ve just bought the DWE7492 table saw today. When setting up noticed that the fence is not 90 degrees to the table. I checked with my square and it tilts inwards toward the blade at the top of the fence. From what I’ve read there’s no way to adjust the fence angle, without voiding warranty.

Would this gap give any issues? Should I make a claim for a new fence? Or should I shim a piece of MDF to the fence and get it to 90 that way?

I want to buy this tufferman unit to stack vivariums and aquariums.

My problem is it uses chipboard which is awful for protection against high humidity levels, moisture and water spillages, all of which there will be having aquariums and vivariums.

My question is what wood (thats affordable) can i use to either replace this wood and prep OR what can i do to ensure the chipboard is protected against water damage?

Please help!

Im moving on the 30th of august i need to get this sorted asap 😭

Hello,

Struggling on the easiest/best option given I already have some pre-manufactured holes.

I think these are my two best options - but are there any advantages or disadvantages to each approach?

I have a Router with a plunge base, I also have a Dremel. I kind of like the peanut idea because of new skills learned. Would it be too complex for a first project?

During research many videos mentioned to not use screws, and instead put threaded inserts into the desk. Why is there a difference? Surely both are in a fixed place in the wood?

I would also be grateful if someone could confirm the 1.5cm provisioned for expansion is a sensible amount. I think the actual change in worst case scenario is 1.3cm, so adding 10% to that.

It is a replacement board and it needs to lock into place. Basically turn a 19 inch long groove into a rabbet.

I know this TECHNICALLY isn’t woodworking but you guys know your hand tools and I can’t afford a table saw…or a pro to do this repair.

Please help me.

You know how old pine thats been left in the shop turns an orange color? I made a wooden cigarette with pine as the filter and i need it to turn that orange, much appreciated

Hi guys, I have this piece of particle board from a chest of drawers I'm assembling and I wanted to know whether or not I could use pva glue to put newspaper over it. If so, what would be the best way to do that? Paint roller? I wanted to do this because I really hate the plastic texture they put on these and I think some people plaster wallpaper on these.

hey everyone! I posted this on the r/aquariums subreddit but thought I might get some better information here!

I’ve purchased this vintage hutch that is solid plywood with veneer. it seems to have decent construction and is stable in all directions. I plan to be very diligent in keeping water from sitting on any of the wood surface.

I want it to hold a 20gal aquarium with decor, substrate and some smaller rocks, which I believe could be upwards of 250lbs(?) when it’s filled with water. is there a way I can add additional support to make this safe and hold this aquarium long-term?

any advice will be helpful!

Hi folks,

We acquired a beautiful (veneer) teak table for free. The surface finish has crackled apart along the grain. We bout teak oil and have done two light applications so far. Can anyone diagnose what’s going on here? Do we need to use steel wool and refinish? Or even sand?

We feel like we can achieve a much smoother surface, but need expert help.

Thanks in advance!

I often make wooden toys for children in my family ... Ranging from little carved animals for younger kids to toy swords and weapons for older kids. I want to start adding color, as everything I make now is raw wood (just oil and wax).

There's an old type of paint called "milk paint" which is supposed to be mostly safe for kids, and it's supposed to work very well on wood.

However, I don't really know what colors to get ... For example a company called milkpaint.com sells dozens of different colors at $7 per 2 ounce sampler, and I definitely don't want to spend hundreds for one of each. I'd like to get a small set of maybe 10 colors that'll cover my basic needs and then mix the other colors. Yes, milk paint is supposed to mix very well.

So how do I choose? I learned in school that there's 3 primary colors that everything else mixes from but that doesn't seem practical since I'm no mixing specialist. Should I get the colors of the rainbow?

No, I know nothing of color theory.

It's flush on the edges but in the middle theres a 1mm gap. Didn't change table saw settings at all. Both cuts done right after one another.

Thanks for your help!

SOLVED: Turns out the MDF board itself has a little bent to it. Thanks for all your help, as a beginner this is really appreciated!

Picked up this nice little table and I would like help or a helpful video tutorial on how to fix this patch

Was gifted this small chest for my child. Internet tells me it’s maple.

I want to “finish” it in some sort of way as the wood is still rough in some areas. Ideally, I’d make it a darker wood color or paint it a fun color.

I’ve been seeing stuff that hard maple is difficult to stain but everyone has a different opinion or recommendation on how to handle it. Gel stain, dye, paint, paint type, etc.

Any tried and true thoughts or recommendations?

I used the bandsaw and some files. I made two rifles, one for me and the other for my little brother. I tried to model them off of an m1 grand, the top rifle isn't finished as you can see but I am currently working on it, anyways it was a neat little project and I have fun making it

(I used dowels on the top rifle since I couldn't shape the barrel properly, i may shorten the top rifle to be more accurate as well)

I saw this cool cutting board for sale in a bakery and I’m struggling figuring out how this was made for some reason. Would love if anyone understands how it’s made or if anyone can find a video of something similar. I’ve made one end grain cutting board before but nothing with patterns so I somewhat understand the process. Thank you for the help!

Just need to plane off the overhang on the two edges, then add a black border and french cleat for hanging, then it’s ready for display!

Took around 2 months as i had other projects to do too, but i‘m really happy with the endresult :) and i wanted a cutting board that can last a long time. I oiled it in mineraloil and waxed with beeswax

Posted here last week asking for some input, and I’m happy to say I’ve finished this little project I started. I never thought I’d love woodworking this much. Onto the next project!

I made a coffee table of the same design last year and finally finished the end tables to match. Used cherry as the top; my coffee table was pine on the top and that was a big mistake. The next project may be replacing the top on it. Still happy to get these into the living room after they fully cure.

I just got this block plane and for the price I'm honestly shocked how good it is out of the box without any tuning

I'm woodworking on a budget and iv tried several low budget planes and they wouldn't cut but I'd definitely recommend this to anyone starting

I'd love to hear thoughts and recommendations

This was the first real finish woodworking project I have completed. It started as a 2’x2’ nightstand and after I got all my material I realized how massive that would be. So I decided to glue up the table top as roughly 2’x18” and cut it in half and make a lower shelf. It was sanded and stained then sealed.

I definitely have some things I’d change like the wood grain on the table top and the shelf going the wrong direction(because of how I changed the size). Also the edges are a little too sharp for my preference.

Now I know what I’d do differently next time. Onto our next project, a bassinet.

Hi. My beginning wood project after building little basement woodshop. Used jigsaw to cut rough profiles and then laminated two 28mm plywood sheets together with all clamps I have at the same time. Hand planed rounding shapes and then sanded with orbital sander and by hand. Used hand plane also for leg bevels. Leg mortises are made with mitre saw and I put also dowels through the legs. Finished with lacquer.

I'm finishing my woodshop next and maybe going to publish some pics of it also later. Have a nice week all.

Howdy howdy, im back and i ended up changing out the table material from cheap pine to sanded birch plywood. I tried to install paper backed red oak veneer that I absolutely botched.... but it is a learning experience and I learned that I hate laying veneer over rounded tables like this. But here we are. I dont plan on filling the kerf cuts as im already so many hours deep and have decided to live with them haha. I also recorded the process of cutting the kerfs and then steaming with a hand steamer if anyone wants to see that i can gladly post it if theres enough interest. But im very pleased with how it ended up stained both the table and base with watco light cherry danish oil and love how the meranti pops with the stain aswell as the birch ply grain

This was a very fulfilling project and I am proud of how it turned out. Made this for my girlfriend and saved hundreds of dollars by building it myself. Made completely out of walnut. The top is a live edge slab that I cut down to size and is just a little over 1" thick. The base is made out of 3/4" thick boards. Dimensions are roughly 79.25"L x 8"W x 25.5"H.

Here are some project notes:

-The live edge board had lots of insect holes that I filled with epoxy dyed black.

-For making the shelf portion I made stopped dado joints using a 3D printed jig template and trim router.

-The stretcher and aprons were connected to the legs with 5/16" dowels. I used the Milescraft Joint Master for accurate joints.

-For connecting the base to the table top, I used figure 8 fasteners to allow for wood movement.

-For the table top accessories, I have one recessed rectangular outlet and one round outlet, plus two holes drilled out for grommets to feed cables through.

-Several zip tie bases installed on underside of top four routing of cables

-Sanded up to 150 grit and broke any sharp edges with 180 grit.

-For finish I used one coat of Rubio Monocoat + one coat on Rubio Sheen Plus, each of which I like dry for 24 hours. Once dry I used a piece of a paper bag to smooth everything down one last time.

This was my first time ever using Rubio and I love how easy it is to apply. I was just disappointed with how dull/dry it looked on walnut, almost like there was no finish at all, so I decided to use sheen plus and it definitely brought it to life 😊.

Key Materials Used:

- 1.25" thick x 12" wide live edge slab for table top

- 3/4" thick boards of various sizes for table base

- Clear epoxy with black dye to fill any holes/voids in the boards

- 120 + 150 grit 3M xtract sanding discs

- 5/16" dowels + Titebond Original Glue

- Figure 8 fasteners

- 3D printed jigs for stopped dados

- Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C

- Rubio Sheen Plus

Table top accessories:

- (2) 1.5" dia. Rubber grommets

- (1) rectangular recessed outlet

- (1) round recessed outlet