I just started my BYO with about 15 trees in the suburbs but come to realize it seems everyone has pest issues; rodents stealing fruit. No matter what kind of traps, nets, etc? Am I missing something. Is the only option a full enclosure?

Feeling frustrated for my future self who will lose harvests.

It's quite early for figs in SE PA so I was taken back when I saw this fig starting to droop a few days ago. This is from an unknown tree that's been potted and over-wintered in an unheated garage for many years. While this could be a breba, I think it may be a fig that remained on the tree from last season that started to grow again when the weather warmed. Is that eveb possible?

Can anyone help me identify the problem, and hopefully the solution, to what's ailing my asian pear combo? First two photos are of the top of leaves; the third shows the underside. The tree is continuing to grow new leaves, but they still seem to get infected. All the four different varieties on of pear are affected. I'm in the Puget Sound area of the Pacific NW (USA).

Some research suggests Pear Trellis Rust (Gymnosporangium sabinae) but the underside doesn't have anything growing out of it. So maybe Fabraea leaf spot? Does that look right? And if so, how would you recommend treating it?

This is the tree's first year in the ground. I removed the fruit to support root growth so the only impact so far has been the leaves. Thanks for any advice!

Moved into a house last August with an apple tree, get all kinds of excited about starting a large garden and planting more fruit trees. Have multiple trees now and I have been watching the apples grow all season for them to simply vanish over night. No apples on the ground, none rotting on the limbs. Now I worry about someone jumping my fence and stealing my corn, watermelon, strawberries, tomatoes and everything else.

These buttheads couldnt even leave me with a couple to enjoy?!

I have a Cortland tree planted 6 years ago, and a macoun planted 2 years ago. I know i made a mistake getting them both because they aren't great pollinators, but im not sure if thats the problem here. This spring we pruned them, gave them compost, and they both had a ton of blossoms that turned to fruit, but in June probably 80% of the fruits dropped off. Whats left looks healthy, but is there anything I should do to gain higher fruit retention?

We have a solid heat wave coming for the second time this summer where we’re going to be pushing 100 degrees in very dry humidity. I just planted my apples a couple days ago and I’m told that you should provide some sun protection for freshly planted trees especially. That said, I’m not sure the best way to set up a sun shade or anything like that. I considered trying to set up a PVC frame to build a canopy but I’m not sure how reasonable that is.

What contraptions/methods have you used to shade your trees? Is it actually necessary or just an extra precaution?

We planned this granny smith apples tree a year ago in spring. When it can our of dormancy this year it started leaves at the bottom but appears to be dead at the top.

What can I do to help this?

I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. How do I get rid of it?

Saskatoon SK Canada.

I have very sandy soil (9a Texas) which requires frequent watering as it just doesn’t hold water. I ran 4 1/2” mainlines and then drip rings around each tree then covered with mulch to preserve as much water as possible and to reduce risk to lines when mowing. I have seeded clover and I cover under the tree (not root flare) with compost each spring as I know more organic material will help with water retention (as well as general health).

I have great pressure from my well, BUT the well water is really high in iron. I use filters on each mainline and clean them regularly (not a lot of debris), but my drip line is clogging (I can see rusty accumulation, plus likely sand playing a role). Unfortunate I can’t tell there is an issue til a tree starts to look crispy, because the drip is buried.

What can I change over to from drip rings off my 1/2” mainlines that would be less clog-prone? Risers with spray jets? Thanks

We’ve had this peach tree for 3 years now. It came with 4-5 main leaders off the trunk that I’ve maintained and kept the center open but I was under the impression that it would grow taller and it hasn’t. It’s more of a peach bush than a tree lol. Should I pick the most upright stem and treat that as the trunk and remove the others and start over or is there a better way to make this better?

It’s not in a spot where it needs to be a tree so I don’t mind the bush but obviously a tree would be better for looks. My neighbor suggested opening up the middle more and treating the branches each as a “new tree”. Any help is appreciated.

https://imgur.com/a/LrFjd2f

I have less than a 1/3 acre in central AL, zone 8b. My front yard is mostly grass (sunny) and my backyard is where I garden, some sunny spots but fruit trees would need to go in areas that are more dappled sun. I thought we wouldn't be here long enough to bother with fruit trees but since we are what are some recommendations for fruit trees that would be compact but give me enough fruit to eat fresh or preserve? I thought maybe mulberries? I have some blueberry bushes in pots I might try in the backyard. I'd rather fruit that I can grow organically without pesticides and preferrable something that will fruit relatively quickly. I anticipate living here for another 5 years.

I have space for 2-3 more trees in my orchard (currently have apples, pears, peaches and plums). I’m struggling between getting a self fertile variety like Stella so I don’t have to worry if one tree doesn’t make it, or getting something like bing and rainier varieties which ripen about a month apart and have different flavor profiles.
I haven’t had any of these cherries so can’t pick based on personal preference.
Which would/did you pick and why?

Plants were doing great, came back from two week vacation and a few of the plants look like this. They were watered by sprinkler the whole time.

As the title suggests I'm researching transplating a honeycrisp tree from a local nursery. They have potted trees, approx. 5 ft tall, not sure how old that would make them off what the roof stock is.

I have 2 mature crabapples within about 50-75 ft for pollination.

Just looking for any specific dos and donts when it comes to the transplant process and setting myself up for success so I'm not in here next year posting 'what's wrong with my apple tree?'

Can I do it yet this year or should I wait until spring?

Zone 5b

You will see that I have many apples that are turning black on the bottom blossom end. Something is getting in there eating and they working it’s way out the tip or side. I cut one open and noticed a small black insect in there moving but not sure if that was the initial culprit. Thoughts?

What type of plum is this please? I think I bought as Victoria plum from supermarket. It has upright growth, smallish fruits, changing colours now, but are quite hard and sour. This is its third year. Tree has grown quite a bit around 12 feet.
Somehow I get the feeling that it is not Victoria plum, any experts here?:)

I also have a ton of ants on the lemon tree.

It has generally been a poor year for fruit in the Washington DC area but it has been a great year for me for my pink blueberries. I purchased these maybe 8 years ago from Stark Bros. They grow in among my Misty and Sunshine Blue blue blueberries. They have been a reliable and prolific producer.

If you asked me how the taste compares to a regular blueberry... it's a tough question because blueberries are blue and these are not blue. They are perhaps slightly sweeter and slightly less tart than blue blueberries. That means they are perhaps slightly less flavorful than regular blueberries. But still very tasty. I have never done a blind taste comparison between pink and blue blueberries because I am not that analytical.

I am trying to see how many times I can write the word "blue" in a Reddit post.

Pic 1 is tree in question, pic 2 is its brother.

Hello! I planted two apple trees (Gold Rush and a Honeycrisp) from bare root, in the same yard in upstate NY, same way this last spring. The only difference is variety and that the Gold Rush (pic 1) is at the bottom of a slope in the yard, and Honeycrisp (2) is at the top.

The Gold Rush isn’t struggling, really, but it is less happy. The leaves curl and have an overall papery feeling, and it’s mostly stopped producing new leaves. :\ Meanwhile, Honey Crisp is reaching for the sky and would be stellar, save a minor Japanese beetle murder attempt.

Should I be concerned? Just a variety difference? I’ve never tree-d before so while I’m sure there is a water discrepancy because of the slope, Gold Rush should be getting more water than it needs, not drying out. Please advise :))))