Wondering if anyone had any advice for me. Can I just sand this down, add filler and apply touch up paint? Or would I be better off not risking a DIY?

rolled fenders. dont wanna get into specifics about why its like this.. but realistically is this more worth replacing than fixing or is it not terribly terrible. would get a professional to fix it obviously.. not me

Caliber bought the mso I work for, what should I expect, do I jump ship?

This is the rear center console trim panel and there is rattling on the lower part of the black trim (right under the outlets) and I want to remove that. It’s very annoying. What are the ways to fixing this? (Not to sure if this is the right group to post it in, if not lmk!)

1991 gmc k1500

got into a car accident where i completely lost my side view mirror glass. there are dents and paint scuffs on the vehicle. the side view mirror's actual mirror is gone, but the mechanism that moves it to adjust the view is still working. what is the best option to get this fixed and does anyone have any recommendations on how to go about this? The make is a 2025 kia seltos. Thank you all, I appreciate it

2005 4 runner 178k miles

I work for AirPro Diagnostics which is a company that calibrates cars. Key Collision has an agreement to keep me in the body shop all day. Key pays a plate rate fee for any services provided but airpro pays me buy the hour ( 40 hours a week ) do I need to worry about caliber getting rid of the sublet service and just hiring their own calibration tech. At this point I dont see a person having enough work to calibrate cars all day long if they hired their own tech to specifically do that all day.

Should I get it touched up by a paint shop? I was considering trying to color wrap stickers… it’s a bare metal spot and I’m not sure what to do 🫩

So I was an idiot and let bird poop sit on the roof of my car for a couple of days in a heatwave. Cleaned it up and it has left multiple areas of paint damage behind. Surface feels rough to the touch. I used some Autoglym Paint Restorer and a microfibre cloth to try and buff it by hand but has had no effect.

I’ve tried contacting an auto body shop for quotes on getting this fixed but I keep being ghosted. Is there any hope of fixing this myself? I don’t own a machine buffer but would be willing to invest if there’s a decent chance of success!

Thanks in advance

I have been painting for awhile, but the majority of my work is for car dealerships. I recently had a customer bring in his car, and he stated it had been ceramic coated. Usually, I use watered down purple clean, then water based wax and grease remover, followed by solvent based wax and grease remover, and that handles all my fish eye issues. What products and process should I use to prep these two panels? I don't want any fish eyes lol....

It’s coming to the end of my car rebuild and I’ve got lazy with the prep for spraying. This was my first ever time spraying with a spray gun, I should’ve prepped it better, I know. The engine bay came out great for a first attempt but the bonnet and bumpers didn’t. Ended up with tiger stripe on the bonnet and bumpers weren’t sanded down enough I don’t think?

So the first question is, will the colour match be slightly off because I didn’t sand the primer down enough which has then caused the clear coat to not look as shiny? I think that’s right, as it’s quite bobbly which then takes the smoothness out of it?

Second question is, if I wanted to redo the bonnet and rear bumper. Can I sand the clear and metallic base coat back to primer and go again? Or what would you guys do?
I hope all do that makes sense. Thanks for any replies😎.

I make small carbon fiber car parts and want to start producing and selling more of them.

I recently learned how dangerous 2K clear coat can be, especially because of the isocyanates, and that my regular respirator may not be enough.

ChatGPT told me a proper supplied-air setup could cost around $6,000–$10,000 CAD, which is way too much for me right now. What should I realistically invest in first? A cheaper supplied-air system, booth rental, paying a body shop, or something else?

Thanks.

Our Nanny had a low-speed front driver-side impact in my 2023 Hyundai Palisade SEL. I’m planning to replace most of the damaged parts myself and then bring it to a body shop for the hood repair and any final alignment.
I already purchased:
Driver-side headlight, aftermarket replacement for OEM 92101-S8610
Driver-side vertical DRL assembly, OEM 92207-S8600
Painted driver-side bumper cover section
Driver-side bumper molding, OEM 86595-S8CB0 / 86595-S8CB0-TRC
Driver-side bumper mounting bracket, OEM 86551-S8CA0
Based on the attached pictures, does the hood look repairable by straightening the front driver-side corner, or is replacement more likely? The metal is bent upward near the headlight, but I don’t see any tearing or but sort of a sharp crease.

Thanks in advance and if you can let me know any parts I might have missed for a very low speed accident

I want to restore the following car and was just wondering from an expert standpoint. I will bring the car to a bodyshop.

Are there any tips you can give me what should i watch for what should i ask

Would you rather fabricate the small part and patch is or use the full original panel and replace the whole thing?

The following issues are on a VW T5 back tires

I know the tires are bad i bought the car as a project

Hi everyone,

I recently had my sedan (factory alloy wheels with relatively low-profile tires) towed using a front Wheel Lift and rear Dollies.

When I picked up the vehicle, all four rims had new scuffs and gouges along the outer lips/spokes. (The release form was signed acknowledging the damage upon pickup).

However, when I reached out to the towing company, the general manager claimed:

Her argument is basically that because the equipment is designed to contact the tires, it's physically impossible for them to scratch or damage alloy wheels.

I wanted to ask mechanics, tow truck operators, or anyone with experience: Is this true in real-world conditions?

Specifically:

1. Wheel Lift (Front): How do the metal L-arms/scoops, metal ratchet buckles, or chain hooks interact with low-profile tires/wheels during installation, transport, or removal? Can metal contact the rim if the operator is rushed or in a tight spot?
2. Dollies (Rear): How are dollies installed and removed? Does using the metal pry bar/lever to lift the wheels onto the dolly frame carry any risk of scraping the rim face or lip?
3. Have any of you seen wheel/rim damage caused by wheel-lift or dolly setups before?

I'm trying to understand if her explanation is just a "textbook ideal scenario" versus how these rigs actually operate in the field.

Thanks in advance for your insights!

Hello, I am a generator technician and my vehicle is a 2025 Savanna Cargo Van. I am removing the passenger seat and am looking for a dongle or bypass for the SRS. I don't trust AI to point me in the right direction. If anyone knows where to purchase one or how to handle this I would greatly appreciate it.

Reason: I am taking out the front passenger seat (I will never have passengers, and building a custom storage/swivel desk area for my packout supplies and speciality tools so that I have room in the cargo area for my larger generator supplies like batteries, load banks, oil containers, and large components.

I noticed a small bump on the hood of my new Tacoma and was wondering if this could cause issues like paint lifting down the road or I can just ignore it.

It's a hard bump on the hood, I have no idea what it is but can confirm it came from the factory like this.

Edit: To be clear I don't care about how the bump looks. My only concern is if it can lead to paint issues in the future. I specifically just want to know whether I can do something simple today to save me a lot of work in the future.

Hi everyone,

Recently bought a Honda Civic EK hatch and noticed a few spots that I'm unsure about. I've attached some photos.
I can see a couple of paint chips on the rear wheel arch and what looks like a small amount of surface rust around the door jamb seam.

One thing I'm particularly unsure about is the area near the top of the hatch opening/trunk jamb (in the second and third photos). It has a brownish line on both sides of the car, so I'm wondering if that's actually rust or if it's just seam sealer, factory adhesive, or something that's meant to look like that.

Does that area look normal for an EK, or is it the start of rust?

Also, based on these photos:
-Would you consider this just minor surface rust?

-Is it something that should be repaired sooner rather than later?

-Roughly what would a professional repair cost if its required?

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Just unboxed my folded CAPA bumper, and thought I finished unfolding it when I noticed this dent on the bottom. Think it'll come out with heat, or should I get a new one?