Skip to 11:30 for the technique.

Decided to borescope my match rifle. Got some awesome Match ammo from the 1950's and figured might as well use them and reload the brass. The beginning lands and grooves seem perfect. Should I take a bronze brush and work it more?

Found some rusty primers under the bathroom sink. Filled a clear 12 ga hull over halfway with some loose powder scraped off the bench and compressed it until the plastic turned white. Topped it with some premium brass floor shavings that will hit the target like a swarm of angry hornets. Sealed the crimp with a bic lighter. Can’t wait to test it out tomorrow

You’ve heard of .410 slugs, now get ready for the .410 Chonker. It looks short, but trust me, it’s packing a lot more projectile than you think

What caused this? 410

Couldn’t find any varget or cfe223 at my local shop but the guy behind the counter said red dot works great for high velocity loads so I filled up the case up to the neck (roughly 30 grains). My dies for 5.56 haven’t came in the mail yet but a pair of channel locks got the bullet in snug and made my own little crimp with some needle nose pliers. Close enough.

This is 43r (monolithic printed ammo) beginner slugs. Just about the wimpiest ammo available. Demonstrating the reloading process without any real equipment. I usually use better tools and a press for this stuff, just a demonstration for release to show how simple printed ammo can be for beginners.

P.S.

I don't recommend hammering ammo, or using a gun as a hammer in general.

Did a batch of 12ga on the old Lee load all jr for my iver Johnson single shot and ran into some issues. About half of them have lots of crush and big bulge right above brass head. So I wrapped electrical tape around them to help chamber and smooth out the edges. I still have to jam them In there real good to get the action to close all the way but overall I’m happy with the results! I lubed them with some rcbs case lube right before chambering so they go in easier, but it’s still a tight fit. I figured once it fires, the chamber pressure will just fire form the plastic straight anyway. I charged them with that leftover Alliant bullseye/ titegroup mix from the 410 project to make sure the payload exits hard enough. Can’t wait to try these out later!

Had to hammer each one from the front with a cleaning rod and a hammer. Should I just drop some lube in the chamber and increase charge to help them extract easier?

No pressure signs here amirite? By the end of a 12rd rapid string muzzle velocity goes from 2800fps to >3000fps.

So I finally got around to doing my very first reload, and its on 7.7 arisaka. go to seat the first bullet and I end up fucking up. so the question now is whether to scrap the round and pull it or yeet it

And a shame it took 90 rounds.

I have recently become infatuated with 257 Weatherby. I'm in love.

Its been a long lasting itch of mine to build a 1911 in .460 Rowland but now with this new fangled +Peak stuff, i took a long toke off the good ol’ crackpipe and started down the rabbithole of making custom tungsten parts to add weight to the slide and barrel (normal 6" barrel + tungsten bull barrel sleeve with integrated compensator and a 6" slide with a reverse recoil spring plug made from tungsten), 28lb recoil spring, Rowland V2 recoil buffer, swuare bottom firing pin stop and a heavier mainspring (anyone know what the heaviest 1911 mainspring is?). End goal is a 1911 that might cycle 45 Super, will cycle 460 Rowland and maybe even some form of Rowland +P if its ever possible to make cases from +Peak [something]. What say ye? Send it?