For the past few years, we’ve had a number of requests to offer samples of some of the bullets we normally sell in bulk. Since we carry quite a few unique products and sell larger quantities to keep prices down, we know not everyone wants to commit to 1000 bullets before trying them.

We started with 21 different rifle bullet samples in 25-count packs. They’re easy to add to an existing order or order on their own if you just want to try a few. Tomorrow, we’re also planning to add some caliber-specific sampler packs with shipping included, such as a 22 cal sampler.

We’re open to suggestions. A lot of the products we’ve acquired or had developed for us started with customer feedback and requests, so let us know what you’d like to see in a future sample pack, and thanks for your support if you shop with us. See the first 21 samplers here

This is once fired Lapua 6.5 brass. Tumbled, annealed, resized using Hornady one shot case lube( first time using, as I typically use imperial die wax) . I did not tumble after resizing, so I’m leaning towards it being dried lube, but outside of that I’m at a loss. After being loaded they were stood upright in a plastic tray. The residue is dried on, can’t be scratched off with fingernail, but does come off with either polish or 0000 steel wool. Currently re creating everything that I did to try to reproduce it, but figured I’d post it here in the mean time.

So I just got my rcbs 6.5 duo set. I removed the decapping pin because I'm decapping and using a mandrel for ID in separate steps. I set up the FL die to just touch the shell holder as I'm going to use cortinas method for getting .002 shoulder bump. I have once fired Hornady brass that I'm going to practice with. The brass has been decapped and cleaned. Anyways. I gave my first case a coating of imperial sizing die, ran it up the die and it got to a point where I was using a lot of force and stopped because it didn't want to go any further. The picture is as far as I felt comfortable with. So what am I doing wrong here?? Thanks!

Right now I only load 223. Using 69 & 77 gr Sierra Matchking for target practice with a bolt-action.

Not in any competitions, just range fun.

I usually load 50 rounds at a time. As part of my brass prep, I’ve always used a primer pocket cleaning bit.

Is this actually doing anything purposeful other than making it look shiny?

I have recently purchased a .455 webley revolver that was converted to .45 acp . I am concerned about the pressure differential so I am waiting to hand load some low pressure 45. I am having trouble finding a good place to start and was hoping for some of y’all’s recommendations

This might be a blast from the past for some of you, but there was a .223 based wildcat being developed on ARFCOM about a decade and a half ago billed the "Patriot Combat Cartridge." Took a trip down memory lane a few days ago and found the old thread showing the progression of the concept starting in 2010, the latest post being in 2019.

Anyone else remember this cartridge, have firsthand experience with it, or do any recent-ish load development? I was flat broke back when it was new but for some reason it popped back into my head again last week and I'm honestly curious to know if there's been anything new or if that's when the story stops.

Thanks in advance!

After reading all the comments on the first post I decided to get a bottle of Flitz and and some bore mops. Chucked them up in a drill squirted probably too much Flitz on them and polished the dies up. Two minutes later of both body and neck polishing this is what I got. GREAT SUCCESS! Thanks fellow redditors!

I used a .27 cal and .38 cal mop for a 223 rem die btw.

Do these red markings have any significance? Scooped up some brass and wasn’t sure. Sorry. Newb here. Thanks.

Got everything moved over and added a second shop light. Next addition will be a progressive press, I need to get the 3d printer back in commission and get a BF556 built!

What a difference powder can make. Both targets using the same primers, bullets, brass. Both at the same MV; 1150fps +/- 20fps. Targets were both shot at the same session. There sure is a stark contrast between the two.

These are soft lead bullets, and this is somewhat higher than optimal velocity for them. I'll have to back off a bit and re-shoot. Will be interesting to see if there's a dramatic change in the titegroup results in particular.

223 20in fn barrel psa. All loaded to mag length lc brass cci 400 primer. Shot from lead sled with 30lbs of wieghts 100 yards small gusts of wind nothing more than 10mph shot in between gusts gun cooled after every shot. Shot with 10 round c products mag. Had much better luck with the swift scirocco 2 my first test with cfe223 26gr I had a 8in group i forgot to chamfer the case which shaved the bullet. Still 2-3in groups (my gun hates tac for some reason) but much better with other powders.

First to last

62gr trophy bonded bear claw

Cfe 223 26gr

Tac 25gr

Benchmark 24gr

H335 24gr

64gr trophy bonded bear claws

Cfe223 26gr

Tac 25gr

Benchmark 24gr

H335 24gr

62gr swift scirocco 2

Tac 25gr

24gr benchmark

H335 24gr.

2 shots 64gr soft points cfe223

62gr federal fusion cfe 223 26gr (pulled 2 shots birds kept flying in scope)

I know 4-5 shot groups aren't definitive of accuracy but i was limited on lc brass.

I have a friend who claims you should foul your barrel with about 5-10 rounds when testing ammo types. I already do this for rimfire, as the lubrication differences between manufacturers it makes sense. Does the same hold true for centerfire? Can bullet metallurgy and/or powder differences really change accuracy or POI?

I fully intend to test this at the range next time by alternating ammo types for 20-30 rounds each into a unique aiming point per load type, then repeat each ammo type in a new group after 10 fouling rounds.

Has anyone tested this themselves or is it more superstition?

I've got this giant canister of powder that I'm trying to find a good use for (SR4756). According to IMR's data and other sources, it's suitable for 38 spl, 357, and 44 magnum (among others). Experimentally, it seems to be similar to Blue Dot, or other medium-slow pistol powders. The powder itself is in good condition, no visible or 'smellable' deterioration, and I haven't had any squibs or pressure signs.

But when I make up some loads, the SD's are enormous. I mean like 80fps+; extreme spreads nearly 300fps. This is getting into scary territory; I can only imagine that pressures are correlating to the velocities, which would mean that the occasional round is producing very high pressure.

I know my process is good. With other powders (and the exact same bullets, brass, primers, process, etc), I'm getting much MUCH more consistent ammo. I've tried it with a bunch of different primers, a few different bullets, and different pressure levels, and with different guns. But it's always really erratic. It does seem to behave better - more accurate, and cleaner - at larger charges. But the velocities are still all over the place.

My current thinking is that - being designed for shotguns - it likes a much higher case fill, which I can't safely approach in a 38, 357 or 44. Maybe in a 9mm?

Thoughs?

New reloader here, thank you for all the information I’ve gotten from scrolling through here the past few weeks. I do have a few questions that I hope someone can assist with.

Resizing? I’ve read more times than I can count that often times you do not need to resize if you’re under max length spec. I’ve also read many times that you can go multiple reloads without trimming as well. I’ve missed anything stating that you may absolutely have to even with once fired brass. This is what I’m getting.

RCBS summit press
RCBS resizing die
Hornady once fired 6.5 Creed brass from ELDM factory ammo.

First number is before resizing, second is after

5 cases

1.918-1.926
1.915-1.921
1.918-1.924
1.918-1.925
1.913-1.921

I’ve done approximately 15 more with similar numbers across multiple adjustments of my die. I’ve gone from the lightest possible cam over through the maximum possible pull of the handle.

TLDR: Is it realistic to have to trim even once fired brass? How much brass should I be going through to get a proper adjustment of my die?

Appreciate any feedback.

For example, book says max 56gr varget for 225gr jacketed and I’m reading everywhere people doing 61+ and getting 180fps+ what the book says. Did I buy an old book or something? Are there inconsistencies between manuals? Book is Modern Reloading, second edition 2023

I started loaded rifle cartridges not too long ago and started with 223 like most.

After a few successful batches of 55 grain mag dumpers and upgrading my setup to a Forster Co-Ax + FL bushing die + micrometer seating die I decided I wanted to give 77 grain a try to shoot further out in distance.

Aside from 77gr SMK for precision I bought 1000 rounds of Mead Industries 77gr HPBT warm up bullets to use as practice rounds without doing more research.

After receiving them I realized that they are significantly longer than my normal SMK with BC - G1.475, BC - G7 .243, Bullet length - 1.07

This means that with the same COAL of 2.260 as my SMK load I would be seating my bullets 0.085 deeper into the case and would have the Ogive sitting under the case mouth.

I tried to simulate the load using Precise Load but due to bullet diameter input error in the bullet database of this bullet I cannot get the simulator to run at all.

Anyone has any experience they care to share about these bullets?

Thanks

This may be a stupid question, but according to my reloading manuals, CFE Pistol isn't listed for loading 180 gr XTP bullets. It is, however, listed for 180 gr jacketed bullets.
Since the XTP is also a 180 gr jacketed bullet, can I safely use the same load data, or is there something specific about the XTP that requires different data?

Finally had a range day to test out a bunch of loads in 4 different calibers, and everything hit the velocities that the load data lists under the max load before I even fired the max loads. Once I noticed this was happening I did not shoot my max loaded rounds, even though I had no other signs of over pressure.

This happened for each of the four calibers: 45ACP, 32ACP, .30-30, and 375WIN.

One caliber? Not weird. Barrel length difference between the data and my own gun could account for that.

But all four? Now I've clearly got a process problem because for 3 of the 4 calibers I was using have the same barrel length (and even gun) as the load data was developed on in testing.

All the velocities were collected with my new Garmin X1, so I trust the velocity data I collected.

My process for measuring powder has changed dramatically; I thought my upgrades would increase the accuracy and precision of my powder charges. I have a, new to me, RCBS UPM-3 powder throw, and I was using the M1000 scale to dial in the powder thrower. As these were my test loads, I weighed each charge. When the powder throw wasn't 100% on target, I hand trickled each charge or rejected it and dropped another charge. I assumed, therefore, my powder accuracy was correct to 0.1 of a grain.

I made ladders at 1gr increments in the rifle rounds, but everything was hitting max velocity before max load- the 375WIN shot max velocities at the second load for 255gr Barnes FPs using 34gr of RL-7.

I fired 20 rounds of 160gr Hornady FTXs in a LeveRevolution factory clone at the Hodgdon 32gr LVR starting load from my Winchester 94, and got the average velocity to match...but my spread was 104fps and SD was 29.6. The speeds swung wildly from high to low, and only the average velocity matched the load data -not a single shot actually came in at 2200fps. When I fired my Barnes 150gr TSXs I was immediately at or even above max load velocities with the starting load of 32.7gr LVR by 30-80fps.

Both pistol loads were Hornady's data using HP-38. Only the 45ACP loads worked about as expected, but didn't match published velocities in my 1911A1. The 32ACP loads swung wildly by 200fps at 2.2gr out of a pair of German Police surplus Walther PPs. (Sorry James, No 'K')

At what point in my process am I screwing something up, give my SDs were all in the 10-30 range, and velocities were higher than expected? I'm guessing it's the scale, but I followed all the steps to ensure anything magnetic couldn't be interfering with it. Even if it was off, it should have at least given me much more consistency given I hand trickled a lot of the loads.

Other data points: Used the lee factory crimp die on all of the calibers. All of these guns were older and all have higher-mileage barrels. My goal for the pistols was plinking ammo that cycles reliably at standard factory loads (consistent within +\- 25fps). My goal for the 375 is max safe velocity, it's got open sights and groups well inside of a white tail's vital area at 50 yards. My goal for the .30-30 was same level of accuracy and max safe velocity- none of these guns are going to win a precision rifle competition but 3-4inch groups were the norm from 5-shot strings. The 20 shot .30-30 group was 3in left on windage, but had a vertical string of 6in.

Anyone run this stuff in .45-70? There was two bottles left on the shelf so I snagged it.

The 2026 Hodgdon manual has it listed for 385gr and 405gr cast bullets, I'm hoping to use the Berry's 350gr bullets I have.

UR tested at 15gr and 16gr:

https://youtu.be/wiI2jduBsT4?is=pMRlGel1JeqAxLww

I'm wondering of I can go even lighter on the charge?

Curious if anyone else has tried this load?

As titled. Looking for the distance from tip to bearing surface on these. I've tried calling and emailing Inceptor with no luck, as well as supplier who had them in stock. Hoping for better luck here.

Hey all, I bought a lot of assorted brass from auction. In the lot description it did say some of the brass included was "6x60". It is all headstamped "LC 62 MATCH". I'm assuming it's 6mm Lee Navy and the measurements seem to correspond to what I've seen 6mm Lee Navy described as. I cannot find anything about Lake City making either 6mm Lee Navy or .220 Swift which is the more modern case that people form into 6mm Lee Navy. I have 101 pieces of this stuff. It's all in seemingly great condition other than a bunch of pieces being filled with mud.

So can anyone confirm what this is for me? Is it possibly something else entirely?

I’m getting discoloration spots on my 338LM brass when annealing it on a Burstfire Induction annealer. I’ve used this annealer a lot on .223, .308, 30-06, .243 and I haven’t seen this before on anything other than my 338LM Lapua brand brass. I have it in the annealer until the mouth is barely dull red, I have the height adjusted right. In the pic it looks like a hole on the shoulder but it’s just a dark speck.

Has anyone seen something like this with an induction annealer before?