Took this beautiful picture with my Minolta Maxxum 7000i. I'm in love with this car!

At 340,000 km / 211,000 miles my '12 CT200h just threw P300, P301 and P302 cylinder 1 and 2 misfires last week. I replaced the spark plugs and the shaking became less frequent and violent but still happens. Coolant levels have not gone down and I don't see any issue with motor oil level. I don't think there is white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

I asked a shop my friend went to for servicing his Toyota but I'm wary about the $100 CAD / hour diagnostic fee with no cap/ceiling. I've come across YT channels and there must be at most 10 things that can be replaced or checked out (ignition coil, fuel injector, compression test, etc.) but not having a ceiling on diagnostic makes me just want to find a shop that can source or install a 4th gen Prius and get me another four or five years lol.

Someone helpful on this subreddit shared his source of JDM engines, 3rd and 4th gen, but I don't think they do swaps of 4th gen into CT200hs. I will confirm with them in the next few days as they also advertise installation of engines for an additional fee.

But wouldn't it make more sense to have the shop source it (rather than me) so they can inspect the actual unit or at least get some guarantee for a few months?

I don't mind driving 200 km from the Toronto city center to a mechanic who can do that. I called Awan Shop in Scarborough but was told they don't do 4th gen engines but only 3rd gen engines. If I am boing to pay $3-5,000, I was thinking just getting the 4th gen Prius engine and making some modifications might make the most sense.

Appreciate any shops / engine suppliers in Ontario, Canada that can install a 4th gen Prius engine into my '12 CT200h. Thanks!

I get the step on how to do this, will this also reset my Trip A odometer to zero? I do not want that. Trip A gets reset when I change the tires (seasonal) and Trip B gets reset when I fill up with gas. Yeah I'm weird like that.

I recently bought a Prius and found these in the center console. Couldnt find anything in the manuel. I googled srac pp 20% and sensor switches and battery packs came up. Anybody have any idea? Is this even Prius related?

Hi all, I need a new front license bracket and wasnt sure if I need to buy a prius specific one, since the license attaches to the bracket and the bracket attaches to the bumper, or if there is a cheaper universal option? Thanks!

I bought a new prius in 2023. car's been great ever since. replaced the windshield after a rock kicked up and cracked it while driving on the highway, and replaced the tires. at 59k now. no real problems.

but the audio that comes out of the car when driving at 25mph or lower is just .... odd. I realize that it is an audio noise generated out of (what i'm guessing) is an undercarriage-mounted speaker. but where is it? and is it hackable? in other words, can i replace the audio file that is used with one of my own liking? like ducks quacking.wav or Favorite_goat_scream.mp3?

just my enjoyment of all things technology and mild case of A.D.D. preventing me from doing more worth-while endeavours like finishing the laundry or replaceing my kitchen cabinetry.

how do i hack in and replace my slow-speed-audio-alert to cats purring or yacht rock favorites? Thanks.

P.S. i was forced to choose Mechanical Help flair because "dumb software question" didn't exist.

Hey everyone! I've got a 2008 Prius that just had an engine swap done, and I found a few connectors that seem to have been left disconnected. Rather than guess, I'm hoping some of you with a working Gen 2 (2004-2009) Prius could pop your hood for 2 minutes and check where these actually connect on a normal, undisturbed car. Photos of mine are attached.

1. Tan/beige 4-pin connector — found dangling near the driver's side headlight, right where the inverter cover (the "HYBRID SYNERGY DRIVE" box) meets the fuse/relay box. If yours is connected, can you see/feel what it plugs into in that corner?

2. Gray connector #1 — comes off the brake fluid reservoir cap (the one with the yellow DOT 3 marking). On mine this one is dangling loose.

3. Gray connector #2 — found near the coolant reservoir tank right next to the brake fluid reservoir. I tried clicking it into connector #1 above since they seem to physically fit together, but I'm not confident that's actually correct or if they're supposed to go to two separate spots.

If you could check whether your #1 and #2 are connected to each other or to something else entirely (and what that something else looks like), that would help a ton. Even just a phone photo of your engine bay in that same area would be super helpful for comparison.

Car's up on ramps mid-repair so I can't drive it to compare against another Prius in person, so appreciate any help from the community!

(Don’t mind the license plate lol)

Basically, I had been told to clean the EGR valve, and had done so about 10K miles ago, but I neglected to notice that I should clean the manifold as well. I’m coming up on 125K, so I’m replacing my spark plugs this weekend, and wondering if I should do the intake manifold as well - how long would this take me/is it necessary since I cleaned the EGR? EGR was sooty but not too bad. No codes or anything so far as well.

This is for a 2013 Gen 3 Prius.

I have a 2013 Prius without a backup camera and in looking to buy one. Wanted to see if there’s one you all recommend. I was thinking of the one posted here.

Is there a significant difference in hard wiring vs this one that plugs on to the cigarette charger?

Old pic from 6 years ago when I got her BUT yesterday I officially put 100k miles on her. I bought her in 2020 with 65k and she hit 165k. Such a bittersweet time I love my old girl 🩷

Title pretty much says it all! I just bought an 08 Prius (base model) so it doesn’t have the JBL sound system. I would like to install a touch screen double din radio in it. Wondering if anybody has experience doing so? Any recommended products I should go for? Any plug and play products so I don’t have wire everything to the steer wheel buttons? Let me know! Thanks

My trusty steed... 2012 V III 350k km

Hi all, hoping to get some eyes on this from people who know the Gen 2 hybrid system better than me.

Background: Just had an engine swap done by a local mechanic. After the swap, I scanned the car and got:

- P0A40 — Drive motor "A" position sensor, circuit range/performance

- P0A41 — Drive motor "A" position sensor, circuit low

What happened when I tried to start it: the engine ran for a few seconds, I was able to shift into D briefly, then the engine stopped and I had to go back to P. This has happened couple of times when I tried to start the car.

While looking around the engine bay afterward, I found the connector (tan/beige 4-pin, sits right behind the driver's side headlight) completely unplugged — photos attached. I'm guessing some connectors just didn't get fully reseated after the engine swap.

From what I've read, P0A40/P0A41 point to the motor resolver circuit, and the resolver connector is supposed to be tucked behind the driver's side wheel well, reachable from underneath. I haven't touched it myself since it sounds like it needs the splash pan off to access.

I also found two more connectors near the coolant/brake fluid reservoirs that I'm not 100% sure belong together or not — photos attached as well. They physically click together but I don't want to assume that means they're supposed to.

Questions:

1. Does this sound consistent with a resolver connector that's not fully seated, or could this be something more serious (actual sensor damage)?

2. Anyone dealt with this exact code pair after transaxle/engine work? What ended up being the fix?

3. Can anyone confirm from the photos whether the two loose connectors near the reservoirs are supposed to mate with each other, or are they unrelated circuits?

I have kept the 12V battery in the trunk connected to an external charger currently to top it off, and will try to start the car again. Car is up on ramps right now so I can get more photos/angles if that helps. Appreciate any insight — trying to get informed before I go back to the mechanic so I understand what's being fixed.

Does anyone know what is the difference between this new black color "inked" and previous one "black midnight metallic"?

im not sure what this intermittent buzzing/ticking noise is. im not sure if it keeps buzzing when turned on because its kind of hard to hear. any help?

Picked up a 2013 C a couple days ago and confirmed it has a bad head gasket. This is apparently an anomaly, because there's basically no one else that has had a HG fail on a C, but alas, I have coolant visibly leaking into cylinder 2 checking via borescope. I've tackled a gen 3 head gasket job before and it was not out of my comfort zone, however I had quite a lot of guides, forum posts and tech sheets to fall back on with every single torque spec I could need.

That does not seem to be the case for the C model with the 1NZ-FXE. I know these engines are used in the gen 2, and there are a couple of guides for a HG job with them, but there's quite a lot of difference between the two engines, such as the timing cover, ERG system and other components, so I suspect torque specs are going to vary across their differences.

I've dug around the internet quite a bit, but I'm constantly getting thrown gen 3 information. Is there anyone here who has done this job on a C and has any reference material they could share? The hand-holding video guides for the 3rd gen were nice, but I don't necessarily need that again. Would mainly like to at least have torque specs/tightening sequence for the cylinder head/timing cover and any other important, gasket mating component. I would love to get this little nugget back on the road, and any info would be appreciated. Thank you muchly.

Has anyone used a paint kit on their Prius steering wheel? I have a 2006 Gen 2 that only has 140k and is in great condition. Have gone through two covers.

Hey everyone,

​Looking for some insight or second opinions from anyone who has dealt with high-voltage battery issues following a fuel-out situation.

​Background & Vehicle Info:

​Vehicle: 2004 Toyota Prius (Gen 2)

​Pre-Incident: About two weeks ago, I ran a Dr. Prius capacity test and the pack tested at ~80% overall health.

​The Incident: A few days ago, I accidentally ran completely out of gas. The hybrid system tried to keep moving and repeatedly cranked the engine using pure battery power, deep-draining the HV battery down near zero.

​Current Symptoms:

​Battery gauge on the MFD rapidly plunges straight down to 1 red bar under normal acceleration or climbing hills.

​Gas engine revs loud and high to compensate.

​The gauge rapidly charges back up to green under regenerative braking.

​Dr. Prius Log Findings:

​Delta V Under Charge (-22A): Block 7 spikes to 18.30V while Block 12 sits at 17.90V (a 0.40V gap—causing Dr. Prius to turn yellow).

​Delta V Under Discharge (+23A): Block 6 drops down to 15.45V while Block 7 stays up at 15.76V (a 0.31V gap).

​Internal Resistance: Block 10 has elevated IR at 27 mΩ (consistently 1 mΩ higher than the rest of the pack at 26 mΩ).

​Weakest Blocks: Blocks 1, 2, 6, 7, and 14 sag the lowest whenever current is drawn.

​Questions for the Community:

​Is it safe to assume the deep-discharge event caused cell reversal / permanent chemical breakdown in those specific weak blocks?

​Given that the rest of the pack was sitting around 80% health prior to this, is swapping ~5 or 6 individual module blades (and parallel balancing) a solid fix, or will I just end up playing whack-a-mole?

​Has anyone else had their pack suddenly start collapsing right after running out of gas?

​Appreciate any advice or feedback from folks who have done single-module replacements!

It was wonderful. Had the car on Ready all night and it was nice and cool while it was still 70 degrees outside. Started at 44mpg and lost 5 after the night was over.

I do wish the flattened seats were more flat, but not too big of a deal. I laid on a cot from Amazon.

I also bought these perfectly fitting window shades also from Amazon for $39 bucks. They shipped from China and they work great

Overall I’m down to camp in this thing again!

My Prius of 11 years has broken to the point that I can't afford to fix her. She has given my family lots of great memories and been driven just shy of 200k miles. My daughter had named her Daisy when we first got her because she was a bright yellow Prius C. We sold Girl Scout cookies out of the back and hauled kids everywhere.

My 2014 is about to hit 100k miles. I'm not the original owner and I'm not sure on the maintenance history, but I'm thinking to do the following items either at around 100k or 120k miles:

- EGR and intake manifold cleaning

- Spark plug replacement

- Brake fluid change (and brake inspection)

- Inverter coolant fluid change

- Engine coolant fluid change

- Oil change

Here's the quote I got from a local mechanic:

EGR system clean $1200

spark plugs $375

brake fluid $250

both coolant $375

oil change $100

With this information, I'm thinking to do brake fluid, both coolant, and oil change. EGR cleaning is really expensive, probably due to my location + how time consuming the job is, so I'm debating if it's even worth it at this point or just wait until head gasket/engine replacement down the line. What do more experienced owners think about this plan?

As for spark plugs, I'm thinking to do it myself. I've not done too much mechanical work besides replacing lightbulbs and replacing speakers, but I do have a lot of experience with electronics. Not to say the skills r 100% transferable but I do think I can DIY some simple stuff. I did some research and saw 2 approaches:

1. Remove the cowl piece and wipers, kinda complicated

2. Get a special hand tool that can reach the spark plugs without taking anything out, but I won't be able to torque it to spec since it's a hand tool

Is it reasonable to do 2, especially with torquing by vibes? This is the video I saw: https://youtu.be/qOM0Wc4DgwQ?is=Bg1v3XuWOmZiBKug