I needed to try some new fabric: Cotton, normally used for car accessories. Quite heavy and I waxed it for further stability. The liner is fabric normally used for outdoor shades.

The labels and the skull are leftover prints on vinyl, that I used for a different project.

The gribs are kind of paracord; knotted for flexibility and adjustment and spliced at the attachment points.

The first bag, I built was slightly to long for my taste. The smaller one is still not the perfect size, but really close.

I've made a couple zipper pouches and 2 different tote bags before attempting the Chonky Sling. I still need to bind the seams but for a first try I'm happy with the results. I used some cheap materials off Amazon, I plan to make it a couple more times before buying nicer fabric.

simple pouch for my bike repair kit. made from transparent tpu film

Hi, I bought this backpack for next to nothing, but I’m wondering what the best way to fix the shoulder strap is. I was thinking about stitching it with heavy-duty thread and then patching over it with Cordura. It doesn't have to look beautiful; it just needs to work. I don't plan on using this backpack often, nor will I be loading it heavily.

Im looking to sew a new undersuit for caving in the next few months, and an oversuit in the future.

For the undersuit I need stretchy warm fleece fabric that dries off fast, the commercial undersuits are usually made of Polartec Powerfleece or similar. The oversuit would require cordura of various denier.

Where are you able to buy these? Ive contacted Polartec but not heard back and I doubt they would sell me their scraps anyway.

Ive looked at Ripstop by the roll for cordura but im fairly sure UK shipping is more expensive than its worth.

Thanks!

Hi! I come as a complete beginner, am still getting accustomed to using a machine, and yesterday I made my first toiletry bag for practice.

I think it’s not too bad, obviously there is much room for improvement and I’d like to get some opinions and advice on how to improve my technique. Thanks in advance.

just tested out v1 of my stripping basket!

striping baskets keep the line out of the swell, seaweed, and rocks while coastal flyfishing.

RBC600 throughout, stuffed with 10mm EVA foam along the sides and bottom, zip ties as the spikes.

for version two I'm going to make the back panel that sits against my body taller, so the basket sits lower. i ended up having to run the belt around my butt, rather than my waist to get it low enough to strip the line naturally. i think i will also end up using some polystyrene in the back and sides to help keep the basket from flopping over when I rest my rod on it.

A while back I posted my first MYOG pack when I first completed it. Since then the shock cord etc has arrived and I've made a new hipbelt (replacing the old one on the back panel I reused) that's based on my SMD Fusion hip belt which is hands down the best belt I've ever used! Corflute backing with 'crab claw' finger cutouts that let it wrap around the iliac crest, plus some foam and spacer mesh on top.

Also upgraded the frame from the original flat aluminium bars to some old tent poles in a U shape - half the weight and lets the load lifters really put pressure on them.

It's had some testing carrying climbing gear around earlier in the season but now the snow has fallen and we're off for 10 days backcountry in a fortnight!

I made a second summer quilt with cinch-able toe box and drawstring for around the neck area. I tested it out last weekend down to 56F degrees. I sleep cold, so a bit of a chill in the middle of the night, but I was wearing a fleece, so was not bad.

I used this tutorial: https://youtu.be/be4ciUndiBg?si=E3GKvjSgxLUNahC2

Made with 3.6oz Apex (for summer nights down to 50 degrees) and Membrane 10 taffeta nylon.

The taffeta was so light weight, it was a bit difficult to work with at times, but it worked out just fine.

Total weight: 456 grams (16.08 oz)(1.0 lb)

I just picked up some Dacron fabric for free! It’s amazing! Does it loose the crunch after time? It’s yellowed in some spots will that scrub off. How should I go about cleaning it? I have ideas for a rucksack/messenger bag and some tote bags!
I might make a tote for the guy who gave it to me.

Built a quick and dirty lined sack for a friend last night, he wanted a bag to carry small metal parts around. Inside is some surplus Ripstop I had laying around, outside is ballistic nylon! Eventually plan on patterning this and adding some more features.

Hello everyone! First time posting. My skill level is quite low still. I made a nice little belt and a bag(beginner level stuff). I use a Vintage Juki machine(stitch length unadjusted/not calibrated). With this info in mind I want to ask what kind of fabrics I can use to make a waterproof jacket. A hardshell to be exact. For reference and Arc’teryx Beta / Beta SL or Haglofs L.I.M Critus GTX. Obviously these are made of Goretex, but I want to know if any non over priced plastic bag alternatives exist. M living in Japan.
Thank you for your help in advance :)

I am considering buying this machine off FB market place for ~$1,300. Currently, my TuffSew is broken after my last rope bag project. Link to a video of that build his here: youtube.com/watch?v=Kl_kEjNb6dg&feature=youtu.be

I need something that is easier to repair and will hold up better to the abuse of making bags with thick material like 18oz PVC and flat webbing. My thought is to buy this machine and use it for all straight stitches, then use my tuffsew for zigzags. If you have this machine or have thoughts on this purchase decision, please let me know.

1. Consew 206 RB triple feed large capacity bobbin like the one above which is also on FB marketplace in my area for $1,000
   
2. Juki 563 for bigger bobbin
   
3. Pfaff 545 H4 because the fook comes up higher.

This shows the feed rock shaft on the sail right and his argument is that with this design it is difficult to get the machine's timing fixed when it breaks vs machines that are A compound walking foot sewing machine (also known as a triple-feed or unison feed machine) which features an inner presser foot, needle, and feed dogs that all move together to pull fabric through the machine. The sail light machine: the needle does not walk fordward its fixed in place.

hi! :)

I completely redesigned my patterns taking things I liked form my previous work and changing a lot of things I didn’t like as much.

this 25l pack is 238g. i belive its my lightest pack.

its made with ultragrid and ultra stretch for the side and bottom pocket.

The front is a light net from extremetextil.

The straps are made with 3d hex mesh from adventurexpert and i now use a super stretchy Lycra that I prefer for the straps pockets.

The black fabric at the top of the pack is paraglider fabric.

I replaced the top webbing by a strong rope and adjustable hook. The same I use for the sternum straps. it saves quite a bit of weight.

let me know if you like it :)

Wondering if it’s just a me thing, but does anyone have to see excess threads in by hand often?

Especially when routinely sewing the same/similar items for gifts or a shop?

I've wanted to try to make one of these classic teardrop packs with two compartments for a while, mainly because I wanted to see if I could wrap my head around building a pack with stacked zipper compartments. I've learned two things from this build. 1) this design might not be worth the effort. Two compartments doesn't feel terribly practical. 2) binding can be an absolute pain in the butt even with a binding attachment.

This design is based on an old campways pack I have.

I found this subreddit when researching how to make a backpack for my SO for our ten year anniversary so I wanted to share what the knowledge here enabled me to achieve. I used elements that made up each of the traditional/modern gifts for each year of a relationship (cotton, copper, wood, paper etc). The front pocket is removable and attached with MOLLE. I plan to make more pockets to attach in future.

I used the Sedron Backpack pattern from Country Cow Designs on Etsy but used waterproof canvas and faux leather, I also added padding to both the front and back for more structure.

It took many weeks and at times was quite stress inducing but I learned so much and am really proud of the final result. SO absolutely loves it as well.

Like the title says I'm looking for a friction belt buckle like the Patagonia friction belt, Mountain Equipment Co-op made a belt like that years ago and I bought 3, they are now lost or worn out and I don't like any of the other types of belts, I did not think it would be this hard to buy a few 1 inch buckles. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers.