Hello! So I recently bought the Msi Vector with Ryzen 9 and RTX5080 configuration for about $2,500. I thought it was a good deal considering that I want a laptop and the configuration seems adequate for my first gaming laptop. In short I really like this laptop and I don't mind at all what heavy it is or how loud it can get (I don't consider it to be too loud and also it is a powerful laptop after all so it needs to cool down right?) The issue comes with that it isn't working properly for me. Mine just crashed 4 times now in a 3 weeks span while simply surfing the web or moving files... Drivers are up to date and everything seems ok but it keeps rebooting itself for no aparent reason. The question is:

Should I return it and bought a Raider Series with the same specs? Or should I just keep this one and send it to MSI so they can repair it?

Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning to replace the thermal paste and do a general internal cleaning of my MSI GF65 Thin EU. Before I start, I would like to hear some recommendations from people with more experience, since this will be my first time doing something like this.

I have been researching which thermal paste to buy, but I am still a bit confused. I have seen many people recommend Arctic MX-4 and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. However, I recently found a post saying that Kryonaut may not be the best choice for laptops.

I have also read about using thermal putty on the other components. Some people say it can be better than replacing the original material with thermal pads.

I would appreciate any recommendations about which products I should buy. I live in Germany, so products available through Amazon Germany or other EU stores would be ideal.

I also have a question about the cleaning process. I have seen some people remove the old thermal paste with just a cloth, while others use isopropyl alcohol. Which method is safer and more effective?

Thanks a lot for your help!

i wanna know if there is more performance i can gain
msi cyborg 15
i5-12450h
rtx 4050
16gb ram
AtlasOS

I get really tired after days searching for solutions but finding nothing. First of all i live in Iran. MSI has a production line here so my laptop actually assembled here.

I have this laptop (i7 13620H & RTX 4060) for nearly a year. So I decided to bring it to warranty for a cleaning and thermal repaste. I got it back and suspected high CPU temps, send it back to warranty again for a second repaste, give it back and still same issue. Checked the temps with HWInfo and i see 50 60% thermal throttling and in some games 90%. I ran a couple of benchmarks and scores and temps for GPU is very fine:

3DMark time spy: overall 10300 cpu 10000 gpu 10300

Cinebench R23 multi core: 13100 average is 14500 or higher

Cinebench 2026: 3100 average is 4040

I can't repaste it for a third time by myself because I'm no expert and if I open my laptop myself the warranty is no longer available. In Iran electronics are very expensive so... i can't do this risk.

Any helps would be appreciated.

I have a MSI GF65 Thin. Whenever I adjust the screen it seems like the plastic around the power button shifts too.

[Solved]

Turns out the screws were loose/missing cause the frame the bend when I closed the screen.

I got this beast for 97 INR

Msi katana 15hx

i5 14450hx

16gb ram

512 gb ssd

Rtx 5050 8gb vram (115w tgp)

Help since this is my first ever laptop What the thing i should do after purchasing new laptop .....

I don't know why but the screen look little yellowish is this some msi centre setting that I need to change or is this permanent??????

i recenty got a MSI Gv62 8RD gaming laptop but it didnt come with the dragonb center and whne i download the app it doesnt work there are loggin errors

also anything i should know about the laptop in general

this time its stuck like this. earlier, i had a problem where whenever i logged on, it went straight to click bios, i hit my laptop and it got it working again (ik prolly not the wisest choice 😭). assuming all of this is related? 5-6 year old ge75 raider.

I have an MSI GE72 7RD gaming laptop that was working perfectly before I opened it. The only issue was that the CPU fan had started making a scratching/grinding noise.

I opened the laptop, but I made the mistake of not disconnecting the battery first. I unplugged thMSI GE72 7RD won't turn on after replacing CPU fan, no charging light

e CPU fan cable, carefully removed the heatsink, and then reassembled everything. I did not remove the CPU.

After putting everything back together, the laptop is now completely dead.

Symptoms:

• No charging LED when the charger is plugged in.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No fan spin.
• No display.
• No response at all when pressing the power button.

I took really good care of this laptop, and it was running perfectly before this. I'm worried I may have shorted something by leaving the battery connected while working on it, but I'm hoping it's something simpler like a loose connector or an EC reset.

Has anyone experienced this on an MSI laptop? Is there anything I should check before taking it to a repair shop, or does this sound like a motherboard or power circuit issue?

Any help would be appreciated.

my laptop is not old fully optimized 200fps + in any fps game , PushinP fully maxx out 60fps , fortnite 240fps, fivem on high with mods 110

My computer just started making this noise out of nowhere. This has never ever happened before. What is this?

Hello!

So, for the first time, I bought a PC with my own money, and I wanted to go big with a Vector 17 HX. However, it's refurbished. I contacted the company that sold it already, but I'm a bit stubborn, and I want to know what's wrong with it.

The laptop itself looks perfectly fine in the outside, however, when using it plugged, it works fine if I don't use it for gaming (ironically). However, the moment I try to play a game (testing with black ops 6, high/ultra settings), the PC alternates between charging and not charging. And, of course, the laptop begins to blink a lot because it's changing the GPU all the time between integrated and the 5070 ti. I don't understand why. Changed the plug's socket cord, changed MSI Center's settings for battery, and still, nothing. EC reset doesn't seem to do the trick, either. It lasts maybe a bit more than usual, but that's it, no more than 10 minutes.

I have three suspects: Battery, laptop's charging port, and the charger, the biggest suspect being the charging port, although, again, I don't really know.

Has anyone else experienced this? I swear I cannot for the life of me figure out what's wrong or what's going on. I've put around 10 hours into troubleshooting in total, but nothing.

Edit 1: I'm using Windows 11 home. I restored the installation, but that did absolutely nothing. Read the drivers could mess up with it, but I don't think that's it.

I had to reinstall windows fresh to get rid of a virus I stupidly got. After an installation using the Windows Media Installer on a USB stick, the computer is constantly booting back into MSI Click Bios.

I have tried to change UEFI to Legacy on boot, to turn both fast boot and quiet boot off, set the prefered boot option to either my ssd where the windows install was made or the usb stick that held the installer and to do an EC reset to see if there was anything leftover messing with the boot.

The only two things I saw people recommend and couldn't try were to disable secure boot (option stays greyed out no matter what, setting an admin password doesn't change anything) and to use the boot override (no options under it)

The SSD shows Windows Boot Manager and the USB shows UEFI on it when choosing which one to boot from.

I am on a MSI Katana 17 B12VGK with factory hardware except for the network card which I replaced.

Any ideas? I'm very lost and rapidly running out of options.

Background information: Riot Vanguard has been killing my PC and I need to enable Secure Boot on my MSI laptop, I have tried following multiple forums and guides but nothing works.

Yes UEFI is enabled, and yes I'm in windows 11. I will send as many pictures as possible to try and showcase what is wrong and if anyone can help I'd greatly appreciate it.

The secure boot option is greyed out. If I turn on secure boot support then it comes up with the violation error and forces me to turn it off. I tried resetting all the factory keys, and I still cant activate secure boot.

Someone pleeaaasse help!

got a msi raider 16 max hx for $2304

specs:
1 tb ssd
32 gb ram
nvidia rtx 5070 ti
intel (r) core (tm) ultra 9 290 hx plus

on sale from 3k at micro center, think i got a pretty good deal

Hey, I just bought my first gaming laptop two weeks ago. It's a very good machine, but I noticed there is an audible creaking when you move the hinge after a long time; it's stuck in that position. If I leave the hinge open for 3 hrs and try to close it, it produces tiny plastic creaks. After the tiny creak, the next hinge movement produces no creak anymore. The real-life audio is not as bad as the one in the video. My initial assumption is that it's the plastic chassis flexing? Would love to hear your thoughts and opinion on this. Thank you.

https://reddit.com/link/1v2fsoa/video/lm0obiirjkeh1/player

This is with PTM7950 applied to the CPU and K5 Pro on the GPU.

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with an MSI Katana GF66 12UC (MS-1584) or experience with MSI firmware can help me.

I recently updated my laptop to BIOS E1584IMS.113. According to the BIOS .113 release notes, this update includes an EC firmware version update. However, after the update my BIOS reports:

• BIOS: E1584IMS.113
• EC: 1584EMS1.112

So it looks like the BIOS updated correctly, but the EC version remained on .112.

Since updating I've been experiencing some very strange power management issues:

-The laptop sometimes won't power on after a normal shutdown.

-It often needs an EC reset (using the pinhole button) before it will boot again.

-The charging LED sometimes doesn't work.

-At one point Windows reported "plugged in, charging" but the battery percentage wouldn't increase while the laptop was running. Oddly enough, it would charge normally during a deeper sleep/hibernate state.

-After performing an EC reset, the charging LED came back and the battery started charging normally again until i shutdown

The laptop itself is completely stable once it's running (I've gamed for hours without crashes), so the problem seems to be related only to the EC/power management.

I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone with the same model who can check their BIOS/EC versions or has experienced something similar.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I recently installed Linux Mint 22.3, and overall everything is working well. However, I’m having a couple of issues:
The SteelSeries keyboard RGB/backlight is completely off.
Some of the function keys work, while others don’t.
I came across FrostCenter (https://github.com/gsriram24/FrostCenter), which looks great since it provides features like battery charge limiting and fan profiles similar to MSI Center.
My main question is: Is there any way to get full keyboard support, including RGB lighting, on Linux? If it’s not possible on Linux Mint, is there another Linux distribution that supports MSI laptops (especially the keyboard RGB and function keys) better out of the box?
I’d appreciate any suggestions or experiences from other MSI laptop users. Thanks!

I'm grieving my poor GE75 Raider 10SGS right now. In the last few years game started to add HVCI / Memory Integrity as a requirement for many anti-cheat programs. This means I can't play any popular multiplayer game using Easy Anti-Cheat or similar Anti Cheat programs, including...

• Fortnite
• Any Riot Game
• The Outlast Trials
• Dead by Daylight
• VRChat

...The list goes on.

The problem is, from what I can tell, Memory Integrity is completely incompatible with my laptop. I've tried to fix this for the last several years ever since HVCI was added as an anti-cheat requirement to so many games but to no avail.

The main symptom I have is enabling the setting in my Windows Settings, it telling me to restart my computer and then once it restarts it disables itself again.

I have tried basically every solution under the sun to fix this issue.

• Relevant options enabled in BIOS (Intel Virtualization and VT-d)
• Tried enabling Memory Integrity in RegEdit (doesn't work!)
• No corrupted drivers from what I can tell.
• Hyper-V is installed.
• Tried another OS, Windows 10 to see if it was an OS issue. This did not work.
• Latest BIOS version installed, E17E9IMS.10D.

Nothing works. The only thing that gives me a slight hint of what's actually happening is using Microsoft's HVCI scanner tool, which gives me this output:

VbsGetIssues: 0x00000040
UEFI WX Memory Attributes Table required.

This suggests that the BIOS doesn't support HVCI somehow. Or at least, that's my interpretation of it.

Basically, I'm cooked. They haven't updated the BIOS since 2020, so I'm stuck with a Laptop that can't run a ton of my favorite games. I know Linux has to deal with this all the time, I mean, I own a steam deck. But my laptop was my place to play all of these multiplayer games. Now I just can't, without using some cloud streaming solution like Nvidia GeForce Now, but that's no replacement for actual gaming on the PC.

This laptop is very special to me, it was given to me by my college for their game development program and I paid for it out of pocket in 2020. I know it's six years old, but what makes me sad is that it can still perform graphically very well for its age and is literally being bottlenecked by a firmware issue. If they were to in theory, just give one final firmware update to the BIOS, all of this could be fixed very easily, but it's clearly too old for MSI to care.

You can also see this happening to other owners of this laptop, here is one forum post.

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threads/hvci-cannot-be-enabled.410561/

Unfortunately, the only comment was one guy linking to an unhelpful article, when the issue stems way deeper than that.

I'm also in no position to save for a new PC right now, so I feel kinda screwed. Anyone have a similar experience or solution? Feeling lost.

Edit: oops just noticed typo in the title sorry 😖

model: https://www.msi.com/Laptop/Cyborg-15-B13WX

(B13WFKG,but RAM upgraded to 32) Windows 11 25H2

(CPU temperature: avg 48.7,RAM only used 45% mostly,and plugged during use)

New laptop,only bought for 3 weeks

and it always black screen in a sudden when I was only using Chrome and Spotify

(Not playing games and working with heavy programs)

The local support (the store I bought from)

they said is due to recent updates from Windows itself

or any possibilities that will cause this issue?

I felt a slight electricity on my chassis yesterday, then the laptop went into a frozen blackscreen.

I unplugged and forced a shutdown. Now it only boots into BIOS.

Any tips or am I cooked?

Hello!

I have a small dilemma.

I really want the MSI Titan 18HX with 290HX and 5090, but in the UK the price is downright extortionate at £5500.

I have found MSI Raider 16 MAX with 5090 and 290HX for £3300 (£2200 discount over 18HX Titan).

Here are the caveats...

Pros for Raider 16 MAX:

- Lighter and smaller

- Same specs as Titan

- OLED

- A LOT cheaper

- 300W Overboost (CPU + GPU combined)

- Advanced BIOS

- 215W CPU limit

- Easy access to RAM and NVMes

- Lighter

Cons (compared to 18HX Titan)

- GPU runs at 8x PCI-E 5.0 speed rather than 16x

- Thunderbolt ports connect to iGPU rather than dGPU so playing via external monitors = performance penalty as it has to pass via iGPU to dGPU.

- More plasticky build

- It's smaller so there is less screen space when gaming

- Heatpipes but it seems to be able to cool 215W on the CPU when running Cinebench (about the same as Titan so not sure if it's a con)

- 2x NVMe slots rather than 4x on a Titan (Not a massive issue)

What do you guys think?

I plan it to be used at home to be hooked up to an external OLED monitor / projector sometimes and it will sit on a Llano v12 laptop cooler.

I will instantly be putting in 2x Biwin 4TB X570 Pro drives in (Gen 5) and have two sets of RAM: 2x64GB DDR5 5600Mhz for general use and 2x16GB Kingston Fury 6400Mhz CL38 that I plan to OC past 7000Mhz.

Titan could do the same etc, but literally unsure if it's even worth the £2200 hike.

My one is B grade for £3300, normally retails for £3850 (The Raider)

What do you guys think considering the cons?