I was gifted this saw from a friend and was hoping that it would speed up my projects. The saw seems to struggle with just 3/16” metal.

So far I’ve tried cutting a piece of cinder block in an attempt to grind some of the blade away and get fresh abrasion material on the edge. That didn’t make a difference.

The saw is quite old and hasn’t been run in years. The blade is the same.

Should I get a new blade?

Thanks for helping out a noob.

We are putting a 3 inch band of 3/8 around perimeter of bartop and needed a way to bend it. I don’t own a fancy bender but I do own a welder and a skid steer. Bends turned out perfect. We attached the hammered buttons every 9 inches and dropped off for powder coating. I’m hoping I get to 400 characters pretty soon before my thumbs get tired. Nope still not there. It’s really hard to expand upon what I already wrote, so I need to employ ChatGPT for this or what?

I've got a pile of 316 stainless - 4" OD 1/4" wall seamless tube, and some custom 3.5" extrusions that have 1/4" thick "fins' - that needs to be cut into ~4" lengths. I'm looking at Jet band saws and for about $2200(cheapest wet saw it seems) I can get a 3/4HP, and for $3000 I can get one that's 1 HP. I know it needs to be done at low speed because high temps will work harden it.... And honestly that's all I know about cutting stainless. Before I pull the trigger I thought I'd ask you guys. The work doesn't have to be done particularly quickly, so I wouldn't call it a Time is Money scenario, but having the wrong tool for the job can play out poorly. Any advice?

Thanks!

As much of a mess subtractive manufacturing can make, it can be oddly satisfying to clean up all the chips. Whether it’s in a big Matsuura, Mori Seiki, or Makino with a dedicated, high powered wash down hose, or a little Haas OfficeMill with a just a shop vacuum, cleaning up all the chips has always been somewhat therapeutic at the end of the day. This part has about an 85% reduction in weight from raw billet stock to completed part, so there were lots of chips to vacuum up. Anyone else find it fun to wash down their machine or vacuum up chips?

Miscommunication with the shop and they gave me coated Schedule 40 pipe even though I asked for uncoated. Unfortunately I live a decent distance away, and they won’t exchange it.

Can anyone identify what type of coating this is from the photo? Will it eventually weather and rust on its own, or is it designed to prevent that long-term?
I’m building a fence for a client who specifically wants the natural rusted/patina look that bare steel develops over time.

If this coating won’t weather off, what’s the most effective way to remove it. I have about 300 feet of pipe and would like to do it in the shortest time possible.

TL;DR what’s this coating, will it rust, how to get rid of it if not.

Hi everyone,
We have to cut down a bunch of galvanised sheets all at 2mm thick. We are currently using a festool track saw with the 46 tooth Diablo blade but are going through them at the speed of light. We can make about six cuts before the blade goes blunt. What would you recommend to get the most out of the blades? Do we get a specialised metal saw? Do we swap to a nibbler? Thanks all.
Based in Australia

I am looking to buy another cutting tool. Between a reciprocating saw and another angle grinder (cordless this time). Another angle grinder would be nice because I could use it for my welding aswell. However a reciprocating saw is better for cutting tube, and is quieter. For my purpose I'm looking to cut down "metal posts by roads" that have a name the same as a ____of birds. Also I'm looking for recommendations because I could really use a cordless angle grinder as I would have to swap between stone and cut off wheels all the time

I’m considering buying an Evolution S14MCS metal-cutting miter saw. I need to bevel the ends of 3" × 1/2" A36 mild-steel flat bars by cutting diagonally across the 1/2" thickness, creating a knife-edge profile.

I’ll eventually be cutting literally thousands of the same part, so speed, accuracy, and repeatability are important.

I’m hesitant to spend around $1,000 on the Evolution because some YouTube videos make it look like the saw’s base isn’t completely flat or rigid. Overall, it doesn’t appear to be truly industrial equipment built for continuous production.

For anyone who owns or regularly uses the S14MCS:

How accurate and repeatable are the miter cuts?

Is the base actually flat and rigid?

Would you recommend this saw?

I know an industrial cold saw, such as a Scotchman, would probably be better, but I don’t currently have the budget for one. I’d appreciate hearing about your real-world experience with the Evolution before I spend the money.

I have some information to know:

2 months ago I just finished my 4 years high school diploma on cnc machinist with more than 600 hours of internship in two different companies (8 hours a day, 5 days a week)where I worked on 2 axis lathe and 3 axis milling machine with Fanuc, Siemens and Osai control.

After finishing the school I started working as a full time cnc machinist 6 days a week at a company where we make CNC machine. The company name is "GT Trevisan" known as their machine brand name. We create the parts of these machine.

At this company I work on a (3+1) 4 axis cnc milling machine. I setup and do programming on the machine. I'm capable of reading the design doing Fanuc macro programming with G/M codes. Also I'm capable of doing programming on the machine with Siemens language.

I have dream of working in the USA as a skilled machinist. One of the reason is I always studied/ worked with the metric system now I want to have work experience with the imperial/customary system.

Is it really possible to come to the USA from Italy to work as a skilled CNC Machinist?

Is it possible to live comfortably with the salary of a cnc machinist in USA? ( I'm not luxury loving person)

Is it possible to afford houses in the USA as a cnc machinist?

What is the minimum capabilities a person need to get selected?

How's the demand of a cnc machinist in USA?

Thanks 🙏

I recently bought a metabo 6" 17-150 grinder that has a built in washer / backing flange. This is because it has a fancy auto balancing system built in. Most 6 " wheel i get have hubs built into them which is nice, but it makes the grinding wheel, flap disc, or wire wheel protrude past the guard which is throws sparks everywhere. If I flip the wire wheels backwards, they sit in the guard nicely, but I can't do the same with the grinding or flap discs. Is there something like a guard extender available? I've tried the plastic clip on piece intended for cut off wheels, but it is also too shallow. Is there a way around this or am I doomed to use hub less wheels?