I was working on my 2010 ford ranger with the 4.0 engine and i noticed that this line came out but im not sure where it goes. Hoping one of yall know

Im guessing they're are my rear shock absorbers ? Both sides the Styrofoam type material looks like this at the top. Pretty sure they were replaced 2020. Car is a vw polo 2011 6R. Whenever its cold outside my car has a bad sqeak noise when going over speedbumps could these be the reason ? The noise doesnt happen when its warm out.

Does anyone know why this could be happening? It’s coolant, that much is obvious by smell alone. I just replaced the coolant temperature sensor in hopes that would fix it. I’m not savvy and a beginner, any help would be appreciated. I dont see any cracked hoses or anything of the sort. Im at a loss.

Started doing the rear brakes and thought everything was going great until I can’t get the caliper back over the new brakes. Any ideas I’ve been at it for a couple hours and watched and looked all over the internet for what to do. The photo shows how compressed the piston is but it’s as far back as it will let me go. Had to miss work today because of how long it’s taking to simply put a caliper back on.

Temperamental ignition. Going to start the truck and doesn’t even attempt to turn the engine, can hear the fuel pump for a couple seconds after each attempt. Will randomly turn on after a few attempts or letting sit for awhile. I know these trucks often have issues with the fuel pump injector and ICMs. Runs great when it does.

I have a manual Mazda mx5 from 2000

A few days ago I posted in this Reddit about a noise in my engine bay after a rebuild, I was told to check the leads and have since replaced them with kv85s and changed the old plugs to iridium ones. I also found a part of my belt that had frayed, my friend cut the frayed bit off and the noise remains. However at one point I put in about 200ml or 2 quarts of 5w40, unplugged the leads reseated them and the engine was good for about 10 seconds before the noise came back. On a separate occasion same thing and when I revved it then the engine started popping, it turned off and back on but the popping came back. Next day I turned it on and original noise.

When I first posted the engine and exhaust manifold were really hot but now are better. I tested the old leads and the resistance seemed okay for them but replaced anyway just in case. The old leads came out easily and the new ones have much more strength.

my past rear shock absorber strut broke and i’m trying to fit a new one but the old screws are stuck down and are rounded so my 12mm screw doesn’t unscrew it what can i do

I’ve always been into cars, but I’ve never really turned wrenches until now. One night at like 4 AM I was scrolling Copart, threw a $1,000 bid on a 2014 Chrysler 300 3.6L RWD, and somehow… won it.
It’s been a blast learning how to fix it, but there have definitely been some “what did I get myself into?” moments.
Right now I’m stuck on the horn wiring. The front end was hit pretty hard, and I think the horn wiring may have been ripped out with the bumper.
From what I understand, the horn circuit comes from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then branches out to the two horns behind the front bumper. The problem is I can’t find the horn connectors anywhere, so I’m trying to figure out if they’re hidden somewhere in the front harness or if the whole horn branch is gone.
If the harness was ripped out, what’s the proper way to repair it? Should I replace just the horn pigtails, replace the front harness, or run new wiring from the factory horn circuit?
If anyone has pictures of where the horn wiring runs on a 2014 Chrysler 300 or has dealt with this after front-end damage, I’d really appreciate the help.

Curious on input before I take it to a shop. I have a 2013 Nissan Rogue and recently had some clunking sounds. I got up under the car last night and noticed the front part of the sub frame was hanging down about 2 inches. I was able to manually push it up and down with my hand and through some research determined it to most likely be bad bushings on the front end of the cradle. I did some more research and it looks like I would have to drop the cradle out completely, heat up and bang out the old ones, and then press fit the new ones. I do not have the equipment to be able to do all this in my driveway, so would need to take it to a shop. I called one this morning and he basically told me that it wouldnt be worth doing because he would want to change out a lot more suspension parts while he was doing it and it would be like a $2k bill, when the car is only worth abotu $3k.

My mums cars oil is disappearing. I can’t see any leaks on the floor and there’s no blue smoke coming out the exhaust. I could fill it up and then 3 weeks later it’s all gone. Just a bit stumped

1.2L petrol engine

I don’t have the correct sized face plate for my windback tool, so I have tried screwing it back with a pair of pliers, it’s hard to turn and doesn’t seem to retract at all, any help?

2010 Mazda3

What is this noise?

Swapped plugs and and coils and still saying cylinder 7. Now this is the 3rd time I've diagnosed the same engine with the same issue. I've researched about it and it could only be an injector going bad or valve lifters? And is it easy to fix?

I have a 2021 Chevrolet ACTIV trailblazer. Bought it new. About a month ago my check engine light comes on. Car is driving normally. I stop by an auto zone and they pull my codes for me. There are a lot, maybe a dozen. I make an appointment at the Chevy dealership closest to me for the next day.

That evening I needed to move my car out of the driveway for garbage pickup, noticed the check engine light is off. Okay, weird, still taking it into the dealership. Next morning get into my car, check engine light comes on and also low power mode warning comes on. I turn the car off, crank it again and the check engine light goes off and no low power mode warning. Okay, dealership is two miles away. I drive it there. It drives normally.

Fast forward four days later, they can find nothing wrong but they tell me I need a new battery. I thought that was weird, my battery was like only a year and a half old. (I had to replace battery and alternator at around 60,000 miles). So, I leave dealership with new battery and a new set of back brake pads I had been talked into, and the check engine light off. $1200.

Next day check engine light is back on. I immediately drive it back to dealership. They keep it for seven days trying to find the problem. Come back finally and tell me they suspect rodent damage in the wiring harness and it will be a four hour $800 diagnostic fee just to try to find the problem, with no guarantee they will. I decline not only because of the $800 fee, but at this point I have decided this dealership is shady af and I’m taking my car somewhere else.

Do some research and find an independent garage with amazing reviews about people with electrical problems and I take it there. The owner of the shop comes out, and I give him the printout of my codes the dealership had pulled. He decides none of these codes relate to one another and he thinks I have water damage from my sunroof drain being clogged, and it’s damaged modules somewhere under my floor in the car, probably under the drivers seat. So I let him do his thing, and he takes the interior carpet and seats out of my car to see if there is water damage.

Fast forward two weeks later, he says he has found light water damage but cannot find the source of the leak. His last message said that they are putting the interior of the car back together and I can pick it back up, apologizing that they couldn’t find what was wrong with it.

So, I will be going to pick up my car, probably with the check engine light still on and me still nervous as hell to drive it more than a few miles at a time back and forth to work. Rideshare has been killing my wallet since this has happened and I’ve put out what is serious money for me now and the car still has some sort of issue. It has about 88,000 miles and of course I just paid my car off this year. Besides the alternator issue that happened a while ago, the car has run great.

Im a single gal and money is tight. I’d really like to not have another car payment. I’m looking for advice of any kind from anyone that may have an idea of what I should do or where I should go. I don’t want to take it back to the original dealership if possible because per online reviews, they’ve got some shady practices in their sales and service dept also.

I’ve uploaded a pic of the codes in case anyone can decipher what may be going on. I really appreciate anyone’s guidance or help that may have experience with this. Thanks Reddit!

So this is an issue I’ve been having for a hair over a year now. I can confidently say I’ve never run into such a confusing, makes absolutely no sense set of symptoms in my life. It’s a long one so buckle up.

The issue is my 2013 Cadillac SRX FWD has poor braking. However it’s only on the first pedal press. If you press once it brakes, but a bit slow and weak and takes a little to stop in a quick stop situation.

However, if you press the pedal once, let up, and immediately press it again it brakes wonderfully. So when I first noticed this my initial thought was ok, bleed the lines. I bled them, didn’t see much air at all, but the braking was substantially improved so I thought I was good. Well fast forward 2-3 days and the poor braking returned. So I bled them again, this time paid extremely close attention, absolutely no air in the lines at all. I even used my scan tool to bleed the ABS module. Well braking performance improved and I thought ok maybe air was in the ABS module. Well again 2/3 days later performance is awful again.

At this point I inspect pads, rotors, brake lines, brake booster vacuum, everything. It all looks good and feels great. The master cylinder had a bit of age showing so I figured ok this must just be a failing unit. I replaced it. Braking performance improved and then 2-3 days later, same story bad braking. I tried a second new master cylinder and same thing. Improved for a couple days and got bad again.

With that I decided ok, let me just remove every caliper, lube all the pins, see if there’s anything there. All looked good, lubed the pins and reinstalled. Welp same damn thing. Braking improved, then returned to poor performance.

At this point I say I’ll deal with it another day. Time goes on, braking stays shitty. GF hit a curb and cracked a pad on the front driver side so I replaced the pad and you guessed it, braking improved for a couple days and then went to shit again. So now I’m like screw it let me just do weird random tests and see what happens. So I ran a test over the course of 3 weeks where I went to each wheel, I randomly removed a single caliper pin and reinstalled. Nothing else just simply removed, and put right back in. It doesn’t matter what pin, or what wheel. Simply removing one pin and reinstalling improved braking performance for about 2 days and it got bad again. Made literally 0 sense at all. I tried it on all 4 wheels and same damn thing.

So now I’m like ok this is insane I don’t wanna deal with this I’ll just deal with it as I only drive on rural roads with it mostly anyways. Well this month the purge valve failed. Went got a new one put it in isuper simple easy job. Well tell me WHYYYY replacing the PURGE VALVE made it brake once again substantially better for about 2 days and then returned to poor performance. A job where the car is sitting on the ground and you just remove a purge valve from right atop the engine bay.. no work, nothing. Improved braking. Then went back to being bad.

After that I’m now determined to try and solve this because I’m so intrigued. I thought maybe the vacuum of the purge valve somehow impacted it, but the pedal has too much distance on the first press and isn’t super hard. And the vacuum to the brake booster is nice and strong. Pedal drop test is good as well.

I also thought maybe a tiny leak somewhere air is getting in but I can’t find one for the life of me and also it doesn’t explain why simply removing a caliper pin and reinstalling it would somehow restore performance.

Nothing about this makes sense. I truly can’t explain it. So I’d love some input from some others. I also thought ABS module but again, caliper pins and purge valve sorta don’t line up with that. The only other symptom I am aware of is if I brake super hard super fast you hear a “pop” from the rear like it’s the brakes, but it could be any number of things technically. It does feel like maybe the back brakes aren’t fully engaged on the first press, but again that’s a feeling, I have little evidence of that and again why would simply removing a caliper pin and putting it right back in on a front wheel fix that temporarily? Anyways, would love your theories!!

How serious is this issue I honestly did not know about it until it was inspected but Im not sure if this can turn into or lead to a bigger problem

Hi, all.
I got a hilux about 4-5years ago and it’s been a really great ute so far.
I’m just wondering what causes this high pitch noise.
It sounds like a fan but I’m not really sure about ac system.
Can anyone identify what is wrong with this?
Thanks in advance.

I recently change the valve cover because it was leaking oil in to the spark plugs but now getting this noise. Any ideas?

Anyone know what happened? Did someone try to break into my car?

2014 Honda Accord Coupe V6 stalls at stops. Car doesn’t turn off, it’s just I have to floor it in order to accelerate. The codes that it gave me is P2185 and P0457. Had mechanic change the EVAP purge valve, still doing the same thing. Do you guys think the ECT Sensor 2 causing this?

my 2001 v6 auto camry le (114k) has been sitting intermittently for around a year (ran once or twice a month in an effort to diagnose/fix)

Never had charging issues before but recently had issues with the battery dying even while disconnected and good batteries losing voltage while running the car.(so I assume it's the alternator)

Car has massive issues with stalling/sputtering. Seems to be the fuel system OR the ECU freaking out due to low voltage (at least recently). Banks 1 and 2 are running at very different fuel trims (13.3 and 19.5) at idle.

I have already replaced the timing components, a couple idler pulleys, o2 sensors, knock sensor, fuel pump and strainer, and will be replacing the engine bay fuel filter soon. I will update/make a new post once the new fuel filter is in.

Tried to diagnose it by driving the piss out of it with a live feed of the sensors but that only seemed to make it run better?

I love the car and want to drive it but I've been fighting it for years and it seems to hate me.

Any ideas on what could be causing the stalling issues besides the fuel system? I've taken it to a shop that's said "nothings wrong with it" but obviously there is.

So, I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited. 180k miles it’s a lot I know I am just trying to get through respiratory therapy school to be able to get a new car. I was sitting at an intersection and i tried to go once the light turned green and all of a sudden the oil light, check engine light, and battery light all come on and my car literally wouldn’t move if I pressed the gas. I then put it in park and turned my car off and back on & then all those dash lights were gone & it went like normal. Does anybody know what this means?

I have a 1996 Chevy 3500 dually with a 7.4L 454. One of the injectors is leaking, so I figured I might as well replace the whole set while I’m in there.
The mileage is unknown, and the truck is completely stock.
I’d appreciate any recommendations. I’ve narrowed it down to two options, but I’d definitely like to hear your opinions and experiences.
The two sets I’m considering are:
Precision Auto Injectors Bosch 4-Hole Upgrade Fuel Injectors
Five o Motorsports Injectors (P/N: GM505454) for the GM 7.4L 454
Which would you go with, or is there another injector set you’d recommend?