First time buyer - what do you suggest? And what did you pay?

Also, debating btwn a crv 2026 but dealer quoted me $36k

I’m seeing way more 2026 RAV4s on the road than the new CX-5. So far I’ve counted five, including one I went to see at the dealership. Mazda better not screw up their new hybrid system and scale it fast, otherwise they’re in big trouble

Hello all! I just got a 2024 cx-90 hybrid. I used to have a cx-3 but needed an upgrade for my wife and i’s newly arrived baby girl! I knew I wanted to keep the Mazda because these are by far the best car I’ve ever driven. I’ve never had car play before and the sales lady said it was only connected CarPlay not wireless, which was news to me because I didn’t know that was a thing. I was wondering if there was a way I could get wireless CarPlay. Any and all suggestions are welcome! Thank you all in advance!

first time mom here and trying to figure out the best infant car seat for the Mazda cx3 2019. I know it has a smaller back seat and the passenger will be a bit squeezed. We are both on the shorter side, so I don’t see it being to much of an issue.

I would love to upgrade the Mazda but it’s currently not in the budget.

So any help and recommendations are appreciated!

I just purchased a 2026 CX-50 Turbo and am loving it! However, that shiny center console area near the shifter is already getting rather dirty. Wondering if anyone has any recommendations for wipes to keep in the car or maybe a microfiber cloth would help to wipe every now and again? Or what does everyone do to keep it not looking too dirty?

The light on the top and it looks something like this…

https://www.reddit.com/r/mazda/comments/px7dnh/2021_cx9_anybody_k_ow_how_to_turn_this_light_off/

I believe the older CX5 had it as well. I didn’t see it in the newer CX5, CX30, or the CX50.

Any reason why?

I LOVE IT!

Hi everyone. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 that I purchased in December. I recently took it to my dealership because my AC unit is not blowing cold air. They told me the condenser needs to be replaced and put the estimated cost at around $2500 (about half is for the parts and half is for labor).

Are they charging me too much, or would this be a normal amount to replace this part? I'm not a car person, so I want to make sure I'm getting the best care and deal for that amount of money I'd be spending.

Thank you all!

Hi everyone,

Vehicle Info:

• Model: 2020 mazda mazda3 premium awd
• Wheels/Tires: Factory 18" OEM Alloy Wheels with stock low-profile tires

I recently had my sedan (factory alloy wheels with relatively low-profile tires) towed using a front Wheel Lift and rear Dollies.

When I picked up the vehicle, all four rims had new scuffs and gouges along the outer lips/spokes. (The release form was signed acknowledging the damage upon pickup).

However, when I reached out to the towing company, the general manager claimed:

Her argument is basically that because the equipment is designed to contact the tires, it's physically impossible for them to scratch or damage alloy wheels.

I wanted to ask mechanics, tow truck operators, or anyone with experience: Is this true in real-world conditions?

Specifically:

1. Wheel Lift (Front): How do the metal L-arms/scoops, metal ratchet buckles, or chain hooks interact with low-profile tires/wheels during installation, transport, or removal? Can metal contact the rim if the operator is rushed or in a tight spot?
2. Dollies (Rear): How are dollies installed and removed? Does using the metal pry bar/lever to lift the wheels onto the dolly frame carry any risk of scraping the rim face or lip?
3. Have any of you seen wheel/rim damage caused by wheel-lift or dolly setups before?

I'm trying to understand if her explanation is just a "textbook ideal scenario" versus how these rigs actually operate in the field.

Thanks in advance for your insights!

Completely unintentional, even the trip meter. I just parked at work after lunch at happened to look down!

Buying a lottery ticket on the way home!

2016 Mazda 6, owned from new!

This is my girlfriend’s 2020 cx-5, the noise appeared while she was idling on her break. The noise went away after about 5 minutes and didn’t come back. It has 118k on it and isn’t due for an oil change or anything for about 3000 miles. She just bought it from a dealership as well.

I'm torn between two used Mazda CX-5s and would appreciate some opinions.

Option 1:

- 2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring

- 93,000 miles

- About $13,600

Option 2:

- 2018 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring

- 118,000 miles

- About $13,899

Both have clean histories and are from AutoNation. I'll also get a pre-purchase inspection before buying.

Financially, the 2016 seems like the smarter choice because it has about 25,000 fewer miles for only $500 less. However, I really prefer the 2018 because it's the newer generation. I love the redesigned exterior, the interior feels much more premium, and I think it will age better.

I originally thought I'd keep my next car for only about 2 years, but if I get the 2018, I could see myself keeping it for 4–5 years because I don't think I'd feel the urge to upgrade.

For those who have owned or driven both generations:

- Is the 2018 Grand Touring worth giving up 25,000 miles?

- Is there a noticeable difference in long-term reliability?

- Which one would you buy in my situation and why?

Thanks!

Might be a vent but something to watch out for!! I leased a Mazda CX-5 through Mazda Financial Services in 2020. Three years later, I decided to buy out the lease and finance the vehicle. I financed the lease buy out through my local bank. Another 3 years pass as I joyfully drive my CX-5 until, one day, a tree falls on my car. The car is deemed a total loss.

As I go to file my insurance paperwork, I discover something...peculiar. The title had never been transferred from Mazda Financial Services to my local bank. That's strange, I thought, but should be easily resolved. After about a month of back and forth between myself, my bank, and Mazda Financial Services, I learned that when I leased the vehicle back in 2020, Mazda Financial Services never procured the title from the dealership. The dealership of course also does not have said title because their records state that they sent it to...Mazda Financial Services.

Since 2020, no one has had my vehicle title. "Do I get all my car payments back since no one owned my car?" I jokingly ask. No one laughs.

This is where my journey truly begins. For the past 2 months, I have been trying to get Mazda Financial Services to request a duplicate title so the title can be transferred to its rightful owner: me. My insurance cannot pay out my total loss claim unless I have a perfected title that correctly states I own the vehicle. But Mazda Financial Services, despite being LISTED ON THE TITLE AS THE OWNER OF THE VEHICLE, claims they cannot file a request for a duplicate title because...they never had the title and they were no longer the owner of the vehicle as of 2023.

After calling twice a week for the past 2 months, speaking to the DMV, and speaking to my insurance, I finally got someone at Mazda to submit the request for a duplicate title to the DMV. They, however, chose to submit the request through mail. A mail request takes 8-10 weeks to receive a title. A request online takes...2 days to receive a title.

Again I call. I am paying for a totaled car, the insurance on the totaled car, a rental car, and the lump sum payout from a car I had mostly paid off. I ask them to submit the request for a duplicate title through the DMV online portal. "Mazda just doesn't do that." I ask why. "They just don't." I ask to speak to someone who can do that for me. "There's no one that can do that for you. You can't get a company to change how they do things just for one person."

What wonderful customer service. I asked to speak to a supervisor. None are available (spoiler alert - none are ever available.) I'm told a supervisor will call me back though. I have done this at least 6 times now. No supervisor has ever called me back.

I asked to speak to their title department. Their title department "does not have phones." I asked if they had email addresses. They do not. I asked if they have computers or internet access or if they are locked in a small, windowless, faraday cage. No one knows. The title department is an enigma.

I asked how to file a complaint. There is another number I have to call. I call it, sit on hold for 2 hours, and am supplied with a mailing address for Mazda Corporate. The same mailing address that is on their site. Why tell me to call?!

The title issue is annoying and a bureaucratic nightmare but likely rare and irrelevant to anyone thinking of using Mazda Financial Services. The customer service, however, is! A company that does not have supervisors, no way to escalate questions or concerns, and departments that do not apparently have phones or computers is not a company anyone should willingly pay money to. So watch out! Beware! Do not purchase!

I bought a new CX50 a couple months ago and now have about 3k on it. Here and there, the car has trouble detecting the FOB when trying to start it which I can remedy by touching the Fob to the button. In the last few days, the car won't open when I get to it after work. I need to take the Fob out of my pocket and unlock it with the buttons. Bad signals perhaps? Or is it possible a new Fob can have a bad battery?

Looking to join the Mazda family, and I have checked out two 2021 Mazda3 Premium Plus.

One is Machine Gray Metallic black interior 45k miles at $21,500
The other is white on white 13k miles at $24,300

What do you think of these prices? Anything in particular I should look out for?

I got into an accident today. Want to know how much it will cost to fix ? And what should I say to the auto shop ?
In Seattle in USA

Mazda6 Touring, 4D Sedan, SKYACTIV®-G 2.5L I4 DOHC 16V, 6-Speed Automatic, FWD

82k Miles

Did my research, and I’m super happy with my choice.

Asking for any things to look out for or be wary of just in case I missed anything!

I heard that they don’t do well in the ice/snow, and that rust is an issue to look out for, but these are two things I wasn’t able to get much information on.

After nearly a decade of not owning a car, then going through iterations of a new RAV4 hybrid with garbage ride quality, then VW Alltrack with optimum design but horrific repair costs, to a Chevy Trax with zero thoughtful design, the Mazda3 ended up being the most ideal vehicle. I think it is one of the most underrated driving experiences in its class, especially TPP hatch. This sub was super helpful as well as WCSIB for laying down some user experience. Hoping to hold onto it forever. Thanks again. Zoom zoom

First new car in 16 years and am excited!

Did i negotiate a good deal?

I honestly don't even know where to begin.

I bought my 2024 Mazda CX-30 brand new from an authorized Mazda dealership. Brand new back in 2024. One owner. I've babied this car since day one. Every single service has been done at the same Mazda dealership that sold it to me.

A few days ago I got a rear seat malfunction warning, so I brought it in expecting a simple warranty repair.Instead, I got one of the biggest shocks I've ever had as a car owner.

The service department told me the Body Control Module (BCM) doesn't appear to be the original one. They even told me it might be a junkyard BCM.

I've never replaced the BCM.
I've never authorized anyone to replace it.
No independent mechanic has ever touched this car.
I have the complete service history.
Even the dealership admits they have no record of replacing the BCM before they sold me the car.

Yet somehow the conversation quickly became "Since it may not be the original BCM, Mazda may not cover it under warranty."Then I was basically told that I have no proof that I didn't replace it myself.

How on earth am I supposed to prove I didn't secretly replace one of the most important computers in my own car?

This is the same dealership that:

• Sold me the car brand new.
• Has performed virtually all of the service.
• Has no documentation showing the BCM was ever replaced.

So if I didn't replace it...and they didn't replace it...

Then where did this BCM come from?

To make things even bizarre, I've had a few incidents where someone got into my car without obvious signs of forced entry. I don't know if those things are related, and I'm not claiming they are, but looking back, it makes me wonder whether there has been an electrical issue for a while.

Tomorrow I'm opening a case with Mazda Customer Experience because I honestly feel like I'm stuck in the middle of something that makes no sense.

Has anyone here sever seen anything like this?

Can Mazda determine whether the BCM originally belonged to another VIN?

Could dealership records ever miss a BCM replacement?

Has anyone successfully gotten Mazda corporate involved in a situation like this?

Because right now I genuinely feel like I bought a brand-new car, and now I'm being asked to defend myself over a part I never touched.

Update!! Second Mazda dealer kept my CX-30 for 4 hours, gave a different explanation, and wouldn’t provide the diagnostic paperwork

Hi guys, here’s an update. First of all, thank you so much for all the helpful comments and technical suggestions on my previous post. I used many of the questions you recommended when I went to another dealership today.

Today, I went to another major authorized Mazda dealership near Nashville. I already knew it was a sister store of the first dealership, but because these are two of the main Mazda dealerships in my area, I still wanted another technician to inspect the vehicle.

At first, I did not disclose what the first dealership had told me. I only explained the warning and asked them to independently inspect the F-BCM.

I asked them to check:

• The exact F-BCM part number and serial number.
• Whether there was any VIN, configuration, calibration, or software mismatch.
• Whether the module physically appeared to have been removed or previously installed.
• Whether the F-BCM was actually causing the rear-seat warning.
• Whether they could provide the complete diagnostic report, technician notes, and photos of the module label.

I also specifically asked them not to reprogram, reset, initialize, remove, or replace the module before documenting its current condition.

The inspection took approximately four hours again. At some point, the general manager and other employees became involved, and they appeared to have several discussions or meetings about the situation.

The final explanation they gave me was: The number printed on the BCM currently installed in the vehicle is a production number. That is why it may be different from the number shown in the Mazda parts catalog. If the BCM eventually needs to be replaced, it should be covered under warranty.

This explanation seems to conflict with what the first dealership told me. The first dealership said the module did not appear original, appeared previously installed or used, and might be associated with a CX-50.

When I asked the second dealership to send me the diagnostic paperwork and technician findings, they would not give them to me at that time. They told me I needed to speak with the general manager first.

By that point, I was exhausted, and the dealership was about an hour away from my home, so I drove home.

I’m confused about why this has become so complicated. If their conclusion is simply that the number is a production number and the module is normal, why can’t they provide the diagnostic paperwork showing what they inspected and what they found?

I am not accusing either dealership of changing or erasing information. However, because the two stores are connected and gave me conflicting explanations, I am concerned about allowing the module to be reprogrammed, reset, or replaced before I receive documentation of its current condition and diagnostic data.

I will attach two videos showing what representatives from both dealerships told me.

My questions are:

1. Is it normal for the number printed on a BCM to be a production number that differs from the Mazda parts-catalog number?
2. Does the second dealership’s explanation make technical sense?
3. Why would they require me to speak with the general manager before releasing the diagnostic paperwork?
4. Should they be able to provide the diagnostic codes, repair order, technician notes, and module information?
5. Should I now seek an inspection from a Mazda dealership outside this dealer group?
6. Should I open a formal Mazda Customer Experience case before allowing anyone to reprogram or replace the module?

Thank you again for helping me understand this. I genuinely appreciate all the advice because the explanations from the two dealerships are now completely different.

https://reddit.com/link/1v35aq3/video/miemb8audweh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1v35aq3/video/sbluq8audweh1/player