Wanted to ask, my house has cabinet LED lighting that has in the wall low voltage wiring with an LED driver(s) which is then on wall switch. At this time, I believe there is no Lifx LED product that ties into the existing lv wires. I see NeonFlex Outdoor set would work what I am describing but of course all those lengths are over kill and unsuitable for cabinet lighting situations.

Anything in the works from Lifx to create a solution/product for folks like me who need to use their existing wiring for LED cabinet lights? I know there are other solutions out there, just be nice to stay in the same ecosystem as my other lights.

Just tried out two different Color Smart A19 E26 bulbs with my lamp and couldn't get them to turn on. They would flicker for a second and then nothing. I'm assuming my lamp isn't compatible. Is there another model that might work? I'd really like to use color changing bulbs in this lamp.

So I’m assuming the switch is just finished for Australia? Was about to order for a whole house and support bot says no future info on return of switch in Aus.

A shame, probably best smart switch out there.

Hey all,

I have 4 different lamps in my room on LIFX bulbs. I do not have a 120V 60Hz switch to change out to control them, but I would like a physical switch. They are all plugged into different sockets across the room. What are my options to turn them on and off from a switch? One switch is preferable.

Thanks!

Edit: wording

Currently I have 45 colour bulbs and led strips and have mostly finished the inside of the house. But now I’m looking to do some outside lighting. I see in the US they have LIFX permanent outdoor lighting ones that go under the gutters. I feel these would be perfect instead of crappy solar Christmas lights that need replacing every 2 years.
Is the only option to buy them from the US and get at transformer for power 240v to 110v.
Next question
Will Australia see LIFX switches again
I have 2 but would love to get some more.

Is the 13 inch Lifx ceiling light available on Amazon au basically a shrunk down version of the 15in ceiling light? The listing says it has the same lumen output but the cri is rated at 90 as opposed to 80 on the 15 inch model. Does it have better white LEDs?

Hello everyone!

I'm the not-so-proud owner of 2 sets of LIFX tiles from back before everyone realized they were a bit of a nightmare.

Since support has been long dropped I've been working on a custom build using the boards and cables to hopefully fix some of the qualms that I've had with these for so long.

One board has failed over the last 8, a Green Dot tile that controls the other 4, and it is not able to be fixed.

So I'm hoping that someone in this community has a spare tile that has the green dot (or is able to control a set of 4 other tiles) that they no longer use or want. More than happy to take a full set as well if that is preferred, I could use a few more cables as well. Will pay for shipping and for the tiles themselves if needed, thank you all!

Hi all, I'm wondering if the Supercolour 1600 could sufficiently light up an entire bedroom brightly when used with whiter colours?

For context, my room is ~4m x 2.5m and I'm currently using a standard 1540lm 4000k bulb which hangs ~70cm down from the ~2.5m ceiling. I'm content with my current bulbs brightness, but would like something a bit whiter and with LED functionality.

I assume it will be bright enough since it's 1600lm, but I guess my main concern is the distribution of the light given it's not a standard bulb shape like my current one and is rather flat.

If used at max strength does the light tend to be much stronger directly below the bulb and fall off dramatically further away from the centre?

On their advertisements I couldn't find any pictures of it being used as a sole ceiling light so thought I'd see if anyone else is.

Thanks!

I am trying to pair a 4 button switch so it shows paired in the matter section, but the button does not do anything. Is this normal?

A19 is not turning off completely, it leaves a very faint red tinge. I already did a factory reset.

Does the flush kit affect the light brightness in anyway, is it just for style?

What is best if its not for style?

I've got around 20 LIFX devices and have always managed to bring them back from whatever problem they've developed.

This Z Strip suddenly went offline. It can still be discovered, but won't claim. I've factory reset it more times than I can count, checked my network, and even had one attempt where it claimed successfully... only to go offline again about 5 seconds later. Its about 2 years old.

I don't usually lose to tech, but I think this one has beaten me.

Before I replace it, has anyone actually recovered a Z Strip that behaves like this, or am I looking at a failed controller?

I saw the the 2 button switch is on clearance, are they being discontinued? I was starting to switch over to them with my house. Does anyone know?

I bought a couple of LIFX globes to use as sunrise / sunset simulators. This is what I found:
- Factory sunrise / sunset options look trash. That’s alright, I’ll program my own.
- Routines only allow 4 scenes / transitions. What? urgh, ok I’ll daisy chain multiple together to make it work.
- Routines don’t allow custom colours...

What. The. Fuck.

What is the point of advertising that your lights can produce thousands of colours and change lighting schedules and routines if you can’t even specify what colours to use beyond a basic pallet? Makes it pretty much useless for it’s advertised use cases.

I need an alternative app that will allow me to program routines with colours I chose. All recommendations welcome.

Last week I was playing F1 25 and dreaming about owning a motion platform and it dawned on me that I could probably use the UDP telemetry data to sync race events to my lights. I took a peek at the official UDP documentation and realized it was absolutely possible so I built GridGlow!

It supports LIFX, Nanoleaf, and Phillips Hue devices and currently reacts to 8 different flags/events and can even show live sector status on light strips / multizone devices in F1.

It also works for consoles as the data is the same in F1 25 from PC to console

DiRT Rally 2.0 support includes 5 different race events including crash detection. There's no in game setting for telemetry so you have to enable it and point to the right endpoint in the hardware_settings_config.xml at Documents\My Games\DiRT Rally 2.0\hardwaresettings\

It's full of settings that let you pick what light responds to what event, minimum and maximum brightness, profiles for each game or light group, and test functions in the settings for troubleshooting. There is also a UDP forwarder built in so you don't lose the ability to use any other apps you may use while racing. Forward to it or from it, its up to you.

Right now the suported titles are F1 25 through F1 21 and DiRT Rally 2.0. I plan to add a handful of games but would love recommendations as well.

Since the app is new, Windows SmartScreen will probably warn on first launch. The source is open if you want to inspect or build it then run it own your own. Just make sure to allow it when the firewall prompt shows up or else it would be able to scan for bulbs and light strips.

There are two kinda big bugs that I can't track down yet but on some of the machines I've tested the application on, the whole app flickers like crazy. It screws with the checkboxes as well. Also if you're playing on PC and are running games in windows mode, it flicker under this case every time as well so if this happens to you PLEASE send a message or open a bug report / issue in the GitHub. I'm also looking for people who have a Phillips Hue ecosystem specifically as I need to test some of the functionalities.

If you have any feedback or want to see a feature implemented please let me know!!

The website is https://gridglow.titanstowers.net and the GitHub is https://github.com/onxtane/f1-lifx-bridge

I bought a 2 button smart switch without realizing that only one switch work, and the other is for a wifi light. I'm planning on buying the 4 button smart switch because it looks like it would work since it has 4 terminals. I just wanted to make sure that this will work. I'm planning on using it for my ceiling fan, one switch for the light and the other for fan itself, and the other 2 for wifi lights in the room.

Will this work?

Is it possible to connect a 40” strip to a 80” continuous light strip?
Continuous - not seperate 40” pieces

In this order

“Controller > 40” extension strip > 80” continuous strip”

And not this order

“Controller > 80” continuous strip > 40” extension strip”

I’m so tired of this product in its app. My power went out again. My lights are not connected. I’ve done everything that the Internet and the app says to do power cycle this that the other still no connection no recognition of the lights whatsoever been trying to do this for the past three hours. I’m done with this product. Fuck this company. Absolutely stupid. I want my fucking money back.

So i bought a LIFX lightstrip (my third lightstrip i have bought so far) and everything was great until it just disappeared from my app. Didnt disappear from my homekit app and my Amazon Alexa app so i just reset it and re-paired it again. It only “deletes” itself from the app as soon you close the app or has been inactive for a while. Its like the app rejects the lightstrip and basically automatically deletes it even though my homekit app still detects it (and i am able to control it from that app) and my Amazon Alexa app.

Matter compatible controller by the way. It did not do this when i set up my second light strip.

I'm guessing it's not possible because it seems like it's one of those things that would have been built in from the beginning, but maybe through firmware would it be possible to make the uplight on the ceiling light paintable? It's currently only capable through the app of one solid colour, but if it was paintable you could cast 2 colours in 2 different directions, or have a directional accent light where 3/4 of the uplight is turned off.

I have a schedule that I don't want to use and I disabled it. It still comes on. Helps.