This is a simple little angle guide.

Just finished up this Saya for a previous Nakiri commission. African Blackwood with stainless steel pins and a Desert Ironwood + Nickel Silver pin. I hope you enjoy!

Edit: Here's a link to the original post of the knife, sorry I didn't include it here hahaha
https://www.reddit.com/r/knifemaking/s/NoADYUI4rp

BHK : 3.5" VECTOR ( Ito-Wrap Proto. )

The first Vector Prototype is underway, this one is in 3.5" W2 that will be getting a Hamon heat-treat and then a Micarta / Ito Wrap handle 🤘

10" 240 Layer Damascus fighter. Full takedown with stabilized burl and blued steel guard and pommel.  Accented with a Cobra Mosaic pin.  Sheath comes with 3 diamond sharpening stones and a fire steel.  Has anchor points to carry on your belt or a strap to carry across your shoulders.

I had fun forging the Damascus on Monday and Tuesday

Mokume/micarta handle. Stainless damascus on the blade.

Magna Cut

Lost the motivation to make anythung for a while but finally starting to get the urge to make something sharp again! This is going to be a harpoon fighter with a double edge/sharpened swedge (jusy zero ground technically but still sharp!). Blade material is damascus clad hitachi SLD with a block of black and white damascus g10 for the handle. Still unsure if i'll go steel or brass for the guard.

Specs:

• D2 steel, professionally heat treated

• 80 mm (3.15") blade / 175 mm (6.89") overall length

• Acid-etched stonewashed finish

• Rock-textured G10 handles

• Bolted mechanical handle construction

• Thin, slicey blade geometry

• Custom Kydex sheath with UltiClip for EDC carry

Feel free to PM me if you like what you see.

I was attempting to heat treat Z-Max for the first time recently and I have had 2 failed attempts in which the knife bent like an actual banana in the oven and after quench the pre heat treat ground edge looks like a piece of bacon. The 3 knives i have heat treated are not savable unfortunately.

I spoke directly with the knifemaking rep at Zapp and followed the heat treat instructions he gave me. Put knives in at 1550f and then ramp to 2175 and soak 10 mins, cryo, 3x2 hours temper at 1000 for 68-69 HRC.

I also tried heat treating the way I normally do by just putting the knife in at austenitize temp instead of doing a staged preheat and got the same bent bacon edge result.

I left a good amount of edge thickness- about 50 thou, the way i pre heat treat grind all my knives and I did a 2 hour soak at 1200 with a slow in oven cooled for stress relief the way i do with all my knives. I've never had a blade bend visiblely in the oven and I've never gotten a bacon edge before.

I have 1 un heat treated knife left. Does anyone have any suggestions?

So i have a sheath that arrived damp inside and has caused my Damascus fighter to turn brown twice. I just realized it was sorta wet inside. Whats the best way to dry out?

Can u really not store Damascus in leather?

I have ordered some waxed canvas chef kniferolls to store knives in that are supposed to not cause rust cause of dampness in sheaths.

This is the first knife i have ever had issues with. I usually use kpl blade lube or clp oil on all my knives with no issues.

I also used wicked wax cleaner and wax and scrubbed it clean and put a thin layer of fresh wax on the blade today. Its being stored wrapped up iin paper towel on a shelf in my house in a cool dry spot for the moment.

Currently i have the sheath in a ziplock gallon bag with a bunch of desiccant packets and one in sheath opening all zipped up hopefully drawing out the dampness. I dont wanna bake the leather in an oven. Not sure what else i can do?

Wanted a full flat grind chopper for this one. It ain’t perfect but it’s hopefully presentable. People don’t really talk about the obsession you get with the details of knife making and that includes the mistakes you make. Think my wife is already sick of me talking about it and I’m only 2 knives in lol. But I love the process and I have to keep reminding myself I’ll likely need a 100+ under my belt till it becomes easy

Blade steel is Baker Forge RipTide Ripple with an S grind, handle is copper infused carbon fiber, g10, copper, and stabilized maple/copper flecked epoxy

AEBL 2,36 mm, 61 HRC with jute micarta. The etching of my logo became kinda wonky so I have to fix that up.

Recent batch final edge profiling and sharpening session completed. Getting faster, more consistent and bette with each batch - practice makes perfect I guess. Got all these from no edge to shaving / paper towel cutting in about 45 mins.

52100, Procut D2 and Nitro-V. Range from D2 kiridashi to 2 x 10" procut chefs.

Still figuring my preferred stone progression, think I am going to invest in a 220 vitrified or resin diamond stone to trial here soon potentially the CGSW one or a NSK.

My progression on these:

- Final profiling - 220 diamond plate - set final edge profile with 45deg passes - flattening out any high / low spots on the edge

Sharpening - approximately 13-15 DPS

- 220 diamond plate

- 600 diamond plate

- 1200 Miyagoshi Ajisai Vitrified

- 6000 Arashiyama

- 1 micron diamond strop

Another progression I have been using of late that works well - a bit faster

- Profile 220 diamond plate

Sharpening

- 400 Cheefarcut Pro Vitrified Diamond

- 1000 Cheefarcut Pro Vitrified Diamond

- 4000 Morehei (for simple steels) or 5 micron CGSW resin diamond (for high Vanadium carbide steels like CPM4V, Magnacut, etc)

- 1 micron diamond strop

The blade was ferro etched 4 x 5 minutes and then coffe etched overnight

My first ever knife, filled with many imperfections but i made it. Its a 1084 laser bunka with a coffe patina, sharpend it on my whetstone till 12000 grit and is the sharpest knife i have. The handle is a handle i made from beech wood, nickle and ebony. I am already planning on making more. Would love some feedback on it.

I bought this forge from someone who built it himself. It works great....for about 45 minutes to an hour, and then it starts to do the sputtering thing you see in the video. This causes the temperature to go way down.The gas is basically igniting early inside the burner tube. The gas nozzle is up/down adjustable and I've been playing with that with minimal success. Any advice on how to fix it? Thanks!