I bought my house in May 2025. The inspection went well, and I was told it had good bones. Fast forward to this year, and I find out they did an overall bad job on a lot of things. The bathroom wasn’t painted with the right kind of paint. They installed a rainfall shower-head that got water everywhere. There are cracks in the paint. Today, I noticed a spot hidden behind the toilet that’s bubbling out. The caulk has already come loose and water got under it. I not have to call a mold inspector because it smells rank near it. They didn’t do a good job caulking the sink either. There’s no backsplash or anything against the wall and it’s a small, shallow sink so water gets everywhere. I’ve already had to redo the caulk and it’s lasted longer than the job they did. I was going to repaint the bathroom so I’d been ignoring the cracks in the paint since they weren’t bad and I got a shower head that doesn’t hit the wall anymore. But now I have to deal with that one bubble and who knows how bad that’s going to be.
Also, I found out they basically just put anew frame over rotted wood for my back door. My dad just told me to leave it alone because no house is perfect. But is it genuinely that hard to make sure you caulk well enough that water damage doesn’t happen? (Adding here that they didn’t caulk behind the kitchen counters either. And those are butcher block).

I do genuinely love my house, but the amount of fixed I’ve had to do because of flipper laziness is annoying. And now I get to find out how bad the water damage in my bathroom is. I’m hoping I saw it soon enough that it won’t be horrible. But who knows.

We have 4 doors that need to be replaced. The current doors measure 31 and 7/8s inches and 23 3/4 inches wide. Doors are not currently made this size! The only doors I can find are exactly 32 and 24 inches. How do I widen the frame that little bit with minimal effort and mess? I've been doing a lot of DIY work on the home before we put it up for sale. Im an emotional mess with everything that's going on and I'm exhausted and overwhelmed. The doors are one of the last big things I need to get done and finding out that installing these doors comes with this extra step is sending me. The thought of sawing off that little bit of wood and the mess it's going to make is freaking me out and causing a lot of anxiety.

Edit to add... We do not have money to hire anyone to help. And I need advice that will cost very little, preferably nothing at all. I want nothing more than to have the money to hire someone to do this for me.

2nd edit... THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH! We're going to get a hand plane and remove a sliver from the doors. Y'all have no idea the weight y'all took off my shoulders. So grateful for everyone's responses! I love y'all!

update: I’m blown away by the number of responses 🤣 I had inaccurate info in my post. I wasn’t present for the install, I’d been quoted for rheem but apparently my husband told me it didn’t end up fitting so we got a Bradford White. Obviously better quality. The size of the tank, plus the access (utility room in basement downstairs), plus cost of living, and the fact that we used a larger company with fully licensed plumbers has brought me to the conclusion that $5300 was a higher end but not unfair price. Thank you all for playing

HCOL/Westchester County NY

We had a new 75 gallon Rheem gas fired tank put in after our 14 year old tank died this weekend. I probably don’t need 75 gallons, but we already had that size tank came with the house, and I hate running out of hot water. I wanted to do tankless but they quoted me over $9k. They sent 3 guys to do the job

This company did a fantastic job with previous work for us so I didn’t question the price initially, I am also sleep-deprived and had many other projects ongoing with our fixer upper. I hadnt had a hot shower all weekend, and didn’t want to do multiple quotes…

We paid $5300. My skin is crawling now after googling typical prices. I’m really bummed out because this company was great to work with previously, and we’ve had multiple bad experiences with contractors and workmen. i just want to know if I overpaid by a lot.

I bought my house in 2021 and the gas water heater was noted to be 20+ years old. We can’t find a date on it but the inspector noted it looked quite old and mentioned we should be prepared to replace it.

We had our furnace/ac replaced a year ago and the company did a free 1-year utility maintenance inspection which included draining the water heater. Due to the age of the water heater the technician said he could not touch it based on their company policy and the risk of damaging it.

I have never drained or replaced the anodes on it. Should I be doing the maintenance or should I just let it sit? I have a budget to replace it but if it’s working fine for now do I even worry?

I do have a floor drain near it in the event of a failure.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Our 1964 kitchen has knotty pine cabinets we want to keep. Floor is black laminate. What kind of counters should I get? I’m learning changing counters would require losing our backsplash (which I love). What would you use?

I'm looking at upgrading my (old Larson) storm door to the full view Larson Tradewinds model.

Tradewinds

Photos of existing: https://imgur.com/a/zpxhVCq

Would I just be able to use the existing trim since it's the same brand? Thanks for any info/suggestions or tips on install.

Sorry if my terminology is wrong.

I just had professionals come and install a backwater valve in a home that I recently purchased. During the process, they camera’d the line and noticed that a segment of the water pipe was full of water in the area of my furnace room. They offered to fix the issue, which I accepted. It was mentioned that during the process, they would bury the drains in the furnace room so that it is not a tripping hazard.

This is what the end result looks like. https://imgur.com/a/hMJfOvL Is this normal and typically done?

Our house was built ~10 years ago. It’s a nice home, but you can tell the quality just isn’t there…

We purchased the house in the fall, and in the area we live, that’s the 2 months out of the year with perfect humidity.

We had the carpet replaced in the bedrooms, and the old owners had replaced the LVP 1-2 months before they sold. We saw there were 2 cracked tiles in the bathroom floor but didn’t think much of it.

Now that we’ve lived here a couple of years, things are starting to get a little rough. As the air dried up in the winter, we started noticing a lot more creaks and squeaks in the floor, both under the LVP and the carpeted areas. The tiles in the bathroom started popping and grout started coming loose in chunks. On certain areas of the carpet, you can feel that the subfloor has popped loose on an edge and if you step just right you can feel it and it will “snap” back into place.

My SO is a very big guy, and the areas where he walks the most (his side of the bed, closet, etc) seem to be worsening much quicker than the others.

The main issues we are having is that we’d like to retile our 2 bathrooms with the tiling issues in the next 1-2 years and hold off a few years on the rest of the flooring as it’s relatively new and we like it a lot. Is this possible? I have never dealt with home remodels before so I’m not sure and I don’t want to sound like a dummy or get taken advantage of by contractors. In hindsight, we should have had the subfloor fixed before the carpet, but the issues didn’t start up until after the fact.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

My wife and I bought our first house and are going to rip out carpet in our living room and install laminate or vinyl. We got a quote from reputable installers from our inner circle, and both quoted an install fee of $600 for 290 sqft. The room is a long rectangle on a 30 year old house, so pretty straight forward.

My question: I’m of the mind that a we can figure out a simple vinyl install and save ourselves $600. My wife says we just pay to do it since it seems like a good price.

How do you all decide on this type of improvement?
I’m guessing this is just a personal preference but we’re not super flush with cash and are expecting a baby next year, hence my “f it I’ll figure it out” mindset.

My step son just moved in with us and he’s a teen and has been taking the longest and hottest showers to the point steam is even puddling outside the door this only occurs with him I have tried to talk to him and put in a bigger exhaust fan too. I want to turn down the hot water heater it was on 130 what should I turn it down to? Any other ideas?

I've looked for an answer, but haven't come up with anything that can be used as a filler along the lines of oakum but for windows.
The window in question is a fixed picture window that was restored with a triangular gap. While I could use this as an excuse to finally get those fine Japanese hand saws I've been eyeing, I'm hoping that there's a slightly easier/less expensive option.

The other problem is that if I do use wood, I'm going to have to stain it to match the aged sill, and there's the chance that the grain is going to look strange (it's quite old).

Grateful for any ideas.

My lavender paint, second and last coat applied on June 29th, is coming off and I can see the white undercoat coming through in dots here and there. I'm guessing I shouldn't have wiped it so soon but what now? How do I fix it? Thin brush and reapplying the paint where needed?

NE ohio here. I got a good house last year and I can tell how much better it is than my old drafty apartment.

For the most part I got away with having to heat it a lot less than I did at the apartment I had, which also used electric baseboard heaters. But I had to rin them so much to even stay comfortable so my bills were always $300+ for electric for a few months in the winter.

Well my first winter in the new house was much harder than the winters in the apartment. For the most part the house has good insulation and isnt as drafty so I didnt have to run them like I did in the apartment. But this past winter had a lot more days with temps in the single digits or even negative digits than the winter before. So between December and February my electric bills were almost $1k.

Are minisplits worth the investment? I know when I first moved in I had a quote from a company called A to Z plumbing and they said 3 units would be between $12000-$14000 and my monthly payment would be around $160-$200 a month.

I thought about it but decided to test my first winter and see how the house did in the cold ajd what my average bills would be. For example running my thru-the-wall ac unit in the living room ALL day and night my bills at the time ranged between $50-$80 bucks.

So i didnt want to spend more than $200 a month for several years just to avoid high prices in the winter if i could help it.

Then i saw just to stay at a comfortable temp for myself, pets and my pipes it was almost 1 grand for just 3 months

Wanting to re-do my floors. They have the original 26 year old ceramic tiles. Some are cracked and the styling is really dated. 1400sqft home in Florida. What are my options? Is it worth the cost to have them removed? Should I install right over them? Or just try to clean them up as much as I can and cover the cracks with rugs? I don’t think anything I replace it with would be as durable as the ceramic tile.

I'm renting a house that was built in the 70s and has 2-prong outlets in some of the rooms. My bedroom came with a GFCI adapter already screwed in, and I'm looking to get a portable A/C unit that draws 115v to plug into this outlet. Will this be okay? The concept of 2-prong outlets is really foreign to me, and I'd rather not blow a fuse or electrocute myself lol. I haven't plugged any 3-prong cords into this adapter yet, only 2-prong. Any advice? What's the worst that could happen, if anything?

I have a rancher built around 1980 and I've noticed this problem is in the living room.... I'm seeing little bumps in the ceiling - evenly spaced apart (like ceiling joists) and in a couple of places the paint has actually split..... I'm sorry the video and photos are tough to see, we have terrible lighting here.

The dents are not right at the corner, the center of the dents seem to be about 1.5 - 2 inches from the corner.

It starts right above the front door and runs most of the length of the living room - I think it has something to do with the front porch. Here is an external shot marking roughly where the problem exists.

I don't see any evidence of water damage anywhere (yet) but I can't easily access this part of the attic but that is where I plan on going next.

Could this be early warning signs the porch's roof is failing? I roof was re-done in 2018 and the only other thing I can think of was about 5 years ago a tree feel on the back-half of the house and did some roof damage but I'm pretty sure what I'm showing you guys is less than a couple of months old.

I know this is a weird one but I'd love to have a little more knowledge before I bring a contractor out to take a look.

Thanks in advance!

One of my exterior doors has a gap at the top latch side where you can see light coming through from the inside.

I’ve tried replacing the screws in the top hinge with 3” screws (it already had 2 that were 3” but I replaced the other 3 smaller ones) and that did not make a difference. Similarly I replaced some in the middle hinge.

The door also seems to not fully shut at the top as I can push on that top corner and the visible gap will disappear though the gap at the top is still wider on the latch side compared to hinge side since I am just pushing the door to the frame but not lifting it.

I’ve also tried replacing the weather stripping.

What else can I try?

For the second time in a year raccoons have destroyed the fascia in front of our house. Same spot each time.

I read on here to try "hardware cloth" but it didn't mention specifics.

Does anyone know what kind we should get? We have a gaping hole now that anyone or anything can get into.

We’re doing some major regrading on our 30-year-old property to fix our slope, and we’re stuck on what material to actually use. We’ve heard conflicting advice from contractors, so we’d love to get some outside advice.

Context:

• Foundation: Unpainted/unsealed exposed cinder block (2 blocks exposed currently).
• Depth Needed: Adding about 6 inches of dirt against the foundation to establish proper slope.
• There are two different zones: Open lawn (where we want healthy grass to grow). And where we want to put a deck (no grass needed, purely about drainage and stability).
• We live in a state that's already pretty grassy and that has soil with a naturally high clay content

Problem:

Contractors have mainly suggested topsoil, fill dirt, and clay.

Topsoil is obviously ideal for our lawn, but we’re worried about it holding moisture directly against our bare block foundation.

Clay / fill dirt sheds water great, but might not be great for getting our grass to grow later.

Layering clay on the bottom with topsoil over it has come up as another option, but we aren't sure about the depth of each layer.

What we want to know is if there's single soil/dirt type or blend that works for both zones to keep things simple/cheap, or should we use two different materials?

If we layer different soils, how many inches of topsoil do we need minimum for grass to thrive without compromising the slope/drainage underneath?

What are your thoughts?

I had a toilet that was running, and I’ve bought four different flappers to try to fit it, but they all don’t fit correctly. (It seems to have an odd combo of a large hole but a short distance from the pipe where it connects.) Unfortunately, I didn’t think ahead to take the original flapper to the hardware store, and it was honestly pretty gross and wasting away.

I’ve just stopped using that toilet because it was running so much with all the new flappers.

I now have a second toilet that appears to be running. I cannot afford to lose another toilet, so seeking advice for how to maybe rectify both at the same time!

For #2, I do still have the flapper and will bring it with me, so hopefully that will solve my problem.

Getting my shower tiled, and trying to figure out how to finish the transition from where the cement board meets the drywall.

I had to cut the drywall higher than where the old tub/shower ended to have the plumber move the shower head spout higher than it was. My tile guy filled in the cut space that extends about a foot past where the tile will end with cement board that was being used around the rest of the shower. For the joint where the cement board meets the drywall above the shower head spout, can I use drywall mesh tape, and mud to fill and smooth the joint like a regular drywall joint? If not, what are my options? For the piece cement board that extends past the tile should I prime it before paint, or do I need to use redgard or something like that?

Hi there! I'm about to have my first kid, in our baby room we have this awkward transition from one room to another that I am thinking about how to resolve. The story is that the bedroom was adjacent to a bathroom, a sliding door was added between these two rooms through what used to be a closet. Now there is an awkward transition because the closet had slightly different flooring separated by a t-molding. So now we have an entryway to the bathroom but it goes:

oak floor in bedroom | t-molding | wood panels from closet floor | empty gap | bathroom tiles
https://imgur.com/a/BSfgzPW

I am thinking of just adding another t-moulding, but it is both awkward and I worry it will be a tripping hazard when carrying the baby into the bathroom. Maybe I'm overthinking it and just the t-molding is enough, but its a hard problem to research so I am not even sure what options we have. I have little to no experience doing any home projects, but can do some simple stuff. Also open to hiring a contractor but not sure what to even ask them to do.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

The issue we have is I am tall and my wife is short so we both need to adjust the shower head. We need one that easily adjusts and doesn’t stress the shower arm. She’s already damaged one trying to adjust it. The problem is that the shower head is either too tight or too loose. Does anyone have any ideas on this?

Just bought a trailer that has VOG walls. Whats the best primer to use to make sure the paint doesnt peel after a while? Ive googled and come up with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3, Valspar Multi-Purpose Interior Oil- Based Primer, and kilz original. I plan to clean the walls today with degreaser. Is sanding the walls really necessary before applying the primer? I want to do this right and not have to repaint my walls in 6 months because the paint is peeling. Any other tips are greatly appreciated.