In a scrap heap found these 6 planes, couldn't pass up the opportunity see if I could have them. Asked if I could and now there mine.

This pretty much made my day, probably going to try clean them up and find them find them a new home. I hate to to see good tools go to waste.

Made this a couple of years ago, and it has served me well since. I've been wondering about making a bottom half for it to store some of the more awkward tools (plough plane, hollows and rounds). Has anyone seen any interesting designs for that sort of thing, or I might just go with cupboard doors and a shelf.

Got extremely lucky last week and purchased a set of chisels that had this rare gem included. You just don't see these very often, so it's always pretty exciting when they surface.

Hi, I'm looking for options for socket chisels. I've considered Lie Nielsen, but they're out of my budget. While researching, I found some Narex Richter socket chisels, but they don't ship to Mexico, and I'm wondering if that's legitimate since it's the first time I've seen them.

Your comments would be very helpful.

The photos present different stages of my SOP when restoring auger brace bits. I hope this description will be of use to someone.

Act 1 - Rust

Firstly I inspect the auger bit and here are some questions that you need to ask before spending your time doing work:

Does the snail (threaded point) is intact or is it broken off?

Is it packed with resin and wood dust? Paint or glue?

Are the threads stripped or need a bit of a needle file retouch.

Are the spurs (small wings on sides of bit) grinded off, broken off, filed on outside diameter (Yikes!) or are they in good shape?

Do the tips of spurs reach the bottom of the snail?

Is the bit straight or bend? Do you have means to fix the bend and check concentricity?

Is it badly pitted or the rust is manageable?

What disqualifies the bit: broken or stripped snail, spurs grinded or broken off, filed on outside diameter, badly bent (more than 5°), severe pitting.

Act 2 - Chemical Warfare

I use mostly Backyard Ballistics DIY derusting (chelation) solution for rust removal. I can leave the bits for the time without actively managing the process and even if I forget about them, it does not etch base material. No acids to be used. Good alternative is commercially available chelating agents like Evaporust or electrolysis (don't use salt in water as electrolyte, it off-gasses chlorine gas, baking soda is better)

You need to keep in mind there will be black powdery residue all over the bit you need to clean off mechanically or by ultrasonic bath if you have one.

Act 3 - Elbow grease and shoe polishing

To bring the bit to completion, I mount in the vice (I made a special taper square socket but you could use two pieces of pine to clamp it, it is soft enough to make the negative of the square shank) use ScotchBrite abrasive pads in order: Maroon, Grey and Yellow (corresponding to #320, #600 and #1000 grits) cut into narrow strips to get into nooks and crannies of the bit. I polish it with motion how you would polish a shoe with a rag. When that step is done I sharpen the spurs with auger bit file and touch up snail threads if needed with knife edge needle file. After a bit of research I think the metal rifler file would be better in sense it has closer geometry to snail thread profile. Lastly, I oil the bit with rag soaked in Ballistol (or 3-in-1 Oil or WD-40, whatever you have access to).

And there you go, you can see the progression of each step on the pictures attached. If you have a different approach or methods you use, I would appreciate sharing.

bought this pocket sashigane on Amazon. I'm really interested in structural carpentry from all traditions, but I find the Japanese one particularly fascinating. These squares have \sqrt{2} and \pi scales on the back—those ancient craftsmen were truly ingenious! Does anyone know of a book explaining this technique that isn't in Japanese? For now, I'm just watching whatever I can find on YouTube

Came across this old beaten piece for 5 euros. Is it worth restoring and using in woodwork, or is it better just to keep it on my shelf as an interior design element?

First post in this sub... I needed to make a new tote for this no. 5 Craftsman/Sargent plane. Front knob got sanded down as well. Probably the best cutting plane that I have as well (a great 25$ spent.)

Grabbed a BU Jointer and Small Smoother, which officially finishes my move to all BU bench planes (only missing the LA smoother, which I don't need).

Smoother has a couple small pre-finish dents on the toe. Perfectly clean besides.

Jointer cheeks were machined to slightly different thicknesses, and the top of the cheeks were machined a little rough (or dinged) under the finish.

So yea, purely cosmetic as expected. And saved $150 between the two of them.

To date, the Jointer has probably been my worst buy from a Seconds Sale - which is to say I'm entirely happy with it.

Recent antique store find, I only grabbed it because the handle was odd, looks factory made but no medallion and no etching as far as I can tell, anybody able to identify the maker based off of the tote shape?

I bought this hammer at a danish seconhand store, and I have no idea what brand it could be. The only things on the hammerhead is the number 23 and a goat's/ram's head. Some people mentioned the ram could be the smiths makers mark, but I haven't found anything. If anybody knows anything please help me.

Just a little drawknife restoration. It is now razor sharp and functional. I removed the old handles, carved two new handles from a section of trunk from the old cherry tree that fell over. Then glued the handles on with epoxy. I sharpened it in a belt sharpening wheel, then finished with 1000 and then 2000 grit. The log being shaved is a section from the green ash tree which needed to come down last in winter.

Would hanging a Stanley number 50 combination plane by the rails in this vertical manner or even in the horizontal position damage it over time?

Pictures are from mountain top joiners shop video of his tool cabinet tour.

Edit: thanks for the help everyone

I don’t think they’re anything special but I’m trying to figure out the maker. They just say made in England on the steel.

Hey all, got this plane as part of a lot of 3 extreamly rough hand planes. I knew it was most likely going to have to be a donnor for the other parts but wanted to see if anything could done done to bring life back to this hand plane. The rest of the hand plane minus the iron is in much better shape, so also started looking for a replacement body, but as it's a 5 1/2 type 11 there are few options currently available.

Just looking for input of what to do, or if it's a lost cause. At worst it'll end up as a shop decoration as a reminder to take care of your tools

I have this log of damsen and I'm not sure what to do with it? I split it to see what the grain was like but what should I make from it?

I just got an upgraded iron for my no5 and she thicc. Problem is, when I move the frog back to accommodate the thicker iron. I have to move it so far back that the “ridge” under the frog protrudes and effectively pushes the iron forward and un-beds it. Filing the front of the mouth is my least desirable option because I would like to be able to swap in a cambered iron or a back-beveled iron for figured wood. Would you ever file the BACK of the mouth and push back that ridge?

Hey all,

I nabbed this funky 1" outcannel gouge at an estate sale last weekend. It has a nice upwards sweep towards the cutting edge. The handle is a modern-ish Marples. Probably a replacement. The trademark on the steel looks like a lamb, elk, or other 4-legged animal. The number 28 is stamped just above. As far as I know, Buck Bros only had a buck head trademark, not a full side profile of the whole animal. My searches have come up dry. Any ideas on who made it?

Bought this ages ago for €13. Made a new small wedge from a scrap of boxwood. Blade is badly pitted on the back, right at the corner. Would need to remove about 5mm(1/4) to fix.

Original post https://www.reddit.com/r/handtools/comments/1uzarky/for_sale_7_pony_corner_clamps_stanley_9_14_block/

Stanley 9 1/4 block, $35, great condition, great user, still available.

All the pictures I can find online have a very different looking piece that attaches to the adjustment screw