Going on a two week hike I wanted to be able to dry a pair of socks and one pair of underwear in my tent (it's a super small tent with a conical 'roof' with a hook hanging down so no room for a wash line). I made this guy in fusion and it all came together nicely first try! Love that feeling.

Printed with old inland nylon. Works like a charm even after 1000 hits.

My toddler has an EpiPen and I wanted it clearly visible and easily accessible, especially for when we're out and someone else is watching him. Found this design and printed it on my shiny new P1S. It's mounted on the side of a cabinet within a couple steps of the table where we eat. The print has holes for screws, but I've mounted it with 3M tape instead of drilling into the cabinet.

I learned a lot about multicolour prints on this run and realized after I started it that it would've been way more efficient to do each piece on a separate plate and avoid all the colour changes, but you live and you learn.

My 15 year old standing fan started making an absolute ruckus. The rubber bushing that connects the impeller to the motor had disintigrated. Oh well, 3d printer goes BRRR.

Glued it on with E6000 and a couple screws. It ain't going anywhere ever again.

When cycling or scootering at night, it's advisable to wear reflective clothing. Magnets secure the quick-release reflective element, which is important for preserving the waterproof fabric of your windbreaker or backpack.

I wanted to see if I could combine hobbies while teaching my daughter about design and audio. So we set off on a journey to make speakers for her room. After much back and forth we settled on a star shaped speaker mostly because her other ideas far exceeded my technical skills. The speaker was printed in three parts (front face, rear face, and a pedestal) with Dayton Audio ND-65 for the drivers. Since these are little guys also added a passive radiator for low end extension.

Modeled a part of my fridge that had broken and adapted it to hold a wooden dowel. It's not perfect, but it's much better than no shelf at all. Also... I know it will eventually mildew, and I've accepted that, the fridge doesn't have too long anyways. Also, the yellow on the parts I printed has no purpose, I was just too lazy to remove the PETG support interface layer :p

The Honda cr-z has these near useless rear cubbies, and terrible bass on the subwoofer-less base model.

Mocked up a subwoofer enclosure using a 3d scan of this seat area that another person in the crz subreddit uploaded.

Printed on a single 220mm³ plate in abs, bonded with plastic epoxy, then coated in 3 layers of fiberglass. The housing is held in with 3m double-sided foam tape all around, and sounds great! I was worried about sounds quality with this not being a proper sub enclosure but was very surprised that it sounded amazing right after install.

Sub is run off a simple jbl a3001 and hooked right into my aftermarket head unit.

Chips constantly fill these holes that secure the fixed side of this Chick vise.

It works with all original hardware and everything. Pretty dope. Plus the added thickness of the parts dampens the sound a little. Haven’t done any tests but could tell a difference once I installed it for the first time.

I wanted something that would hold my Yubikey and be able to be easily removed for use without having to fiddle with everything on my keychain.

Link to print

I needed a solution for storing Arduino projects and kits, so I made this Arduino project-tray.

If anyone's interested: https://www.printables.com/model/1787223-arduino-project-box

*The model and images were created using Blender and TinkerCAD.

I over-designed a can holder that fits into sailboat winches and has a print-in-place mechanism to lock in place. Works pretty slick and was cool to learn how to get the lock right.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3073051-sailboat-winch-can-holder

Couldnt find any of these classical style picture frame wall mounts so decided to try and make one myself. Holds up suprisingly well.

I was inspired by this design by Matthew Lim but wanted something larger (and gridfinity).

Full build instructions and parts list are on printables https://www.printables.com/model/1591777-large-gridfinity-tooltackle-box

Clip that holds the coupling together when you change sizes of the hose end. It’s only held in with the friction of the o-rings from the factory and I don’t want it to pop off during an oil change.

Made this for sovol SV06 ACE with filament runout sensor.

I have a huge humidity problem where the printer is located and got myself a small one-filament-spool-dehumidifier for way to much money years ago.

It worked mostly, but as soon as the spool leaves the dehumidifier, it was wet again in no time.

So I got myself some tubing (believe it was PTFE) with standard M6-adapters from amazon and routed the tube from the spool, attached directly to the dehumidifier, to the printer.

The parts are all screwed in using heat inserts and can be altered to fit different insert sizes. The roll-wheels, acting as minimum bending radius for the filament, are simply pressed on to some bearings (Di=4, Da=13 and t=5) using a vice. The second roll-wheel doesn't touch the filament, to avoid adding to filament-pull-drag, its meant to avoid the filament "hopping" out of the first wheel.

My biggest concern was adding to much filament-pull-drag, but in this second version (first one in last picture) of this build this is already vastly improved, with most of it coming from the dehumidifier itself. It came with bearings in the bottom to allow the spool to roll, but I believe it slides longitudinal to the spool axis. The next tweak will be a custom spool holder in there, for now it works tho.

The bracket itself is made to fit inside the sovols geometric features. The shiny spots on the build plate, seen in picture 3, are from a, not fully dried, spray-on-adhesive which I use to avoid warping, due to the lack of a heated chamber right now. Will be added soon though.

Let me know what you think!

After getting my printer, I realized the thing that bothered me most about purge bins wasn't actually the bin, it was how they attached.

Most designs use hooks, magnets, friction, or some combination of the three.

They work, but they usually involve awkward removal angles, extra hardware, or eventually drifting away from the printer.

So I started wondering:

Could I make a completely printed push-button locking mechanism instead?

That question turned into far more prototyping than I'd care to admit.

The result is a spring-loaded mechanism that lets you:

• press one button
• pull the bin straight off
• push it back on until it locks again

No magnets.

No hooks.

No additional hardware.

The printed spring and sliding mechanism were by far the hardest part to get right. There was a lot of tweaking clearances, geometry, and part orientation before it felt reliable and satisfying.

The purge bin is almost just an excuse to use the mechanism.

Was this completely unnecessary? Probably.

Do I smile every time I press the button? Also yes.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3077041-a2l-purge-bin-the-yapr-poop-bin

https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3073001-wheel-center-bore-diameter-caliper#profileId-3459657