Extremely new to book binding

I'm fairly certain the pages have good contact even if spine is misaligned. The issue is between pages and cover.

My question is how bad is this and how long will it last? Is it good enough to send to a customer or do I scrap it and have another go?

Any advice or tutorial related to this method would be appreciated as well. I've watched DAS Bookbinding

I’m shaking. I got it for $.99 at Goodwill. Some kid in the past cut up some of the pages and the endpaper is damaged. I bought an identical first edition in better condition for about $20 on Ebay with the original dust jacket. My plan is currently to unstitch it/unstaple it, swap out the damaged pages, then staple/stitch it back together, then glue the endpaper back to the bookboard.

I’ve done minor bookbinding in the past. What’s the best way to restore this?

What are the best threads/staples/glues?

Ordered a book, and once it arrived it was broken after the first few pages. It was a self published, no returns situation, so I don't think a replacement is possible and I'd like to repair it myself.

I'm picking up some PVA glue, but is there anything I need to know before trying to glue the spine back or anything I should do to avoid problems in the future?

Specifically that one in the link. My other choices include another version by the same brand, and this by Mont marte. Also saw this but I presume it's not right since it says slime glue.

I kind of feel bad I've asked so many questions and never shown anything I made😅finally got a new phone so I'll post my only bound book (a picture book!!!), and the mini watercolor accordion sketchbooks I recently made!!!

Can anyone tell me if this 4" thick block of plywood supported by the 4" steel sections will be adequate for the ten tone hydraulic press I am in the process of adapting for letterpress/plate press?

The bed will be 16" x 12"

It's shown upside down of course. That colour has to go though! Also what pressure will be suitable for a 13" x 9" plate printing on damp 640grm Arches watercolour paper? The press has a pressure gauge.

I'm looking for a cloth material I saw in a leathercraft video for my project. I hoped you can help me identifiying it, because it looks like some kind of bookbinding cloth

under the video the creator said it's microfiber, but I saw some examples that are quite similar
https://www.schmedt.com/backliner-single-threaded-mull-with-paper-backing/27010000.B

attaching some images and the video I'm referring to

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDWO76w2xtg

thank you!

Can anyone tell me if this 4" thick block of plywood supported by the 4" steel sections will be adequate for the ten tone hydraulic press I am in the process of adapting for letterpress/plate press?

The bed will be 16" x 12"

It's shown upside down of course. That colour has to go though! Also what pressure will be suitable for a 13" x 9" plate printing on damp 640grm Arches watercolour paper? The press has a pressure gauge.

I know how to make a glue bound book but how do i dismantle one without destroying the pages? Its a pitty from the cover but i rather destroy the cover than the pages

I bought a comb binding machine and a supply of plastic binding combs of different sizes to try things out but the combs just came in a box with no markings of which combs are which. Is there a way to measure these combs? I do have digital calipers but then obviously if I squeeze too hard, a 10mm comb might read 8mm or something.

I've seen some binding machines that have a measurement tray but the one I got didn't come with such a feature and I tried looking for maybe some 3D printable ones but no luck.

Any help on how to sort these combs out properly would be appreciated!

Hi All!

I've got a quick question that I'm hoping those with more experience here could help me with. I'm heading to Europe in a few weeks and I have the opportunity to buy some old Victorian brass booking tools for about 400 Canadian dollars. Up until recently I've only created covers using a circuit but id love to move to proper embossing. My question is, would these tools still be useable? Are there any other questions you'd ask the seller? I don't see why they wouldn't work, but I figured others may have more insight. Pictures attached. Thanks in advance!

Custom hard covers on black velvet book cloth and gold htv.

The hardest thing were the dots over the letters in the title as they are to small to properly weed/cut and when weeding I lost them and was looking for them on my craft table like crazy.

So does anyone has a tip how to weed/cut htv on such small details? I use Silhouette Cameo 5, and some generic htv (tried Siser mettalic a few times..failed so much I dont like it at all).

Plus when ironing on the dots, one moved and in the tail of the dragin on the back I forgot to weed out a small hole but its not noticable. It's for my Tolkien collection anyway.

I'm trying new things in order to learn.

What I've learned from this one:

Thick album covers don't bend well.

I'm binding a 350 page fanfiction. When do I cut the edges of the paper to even them out? Before or after I sew the binding?

Thanks!

So I decided to bind a book and didn’t realize how long it was. It’s going to be massive I realize after I printed it out. Trying to figure out the best way to bind a text block that’s 1000+ pages? Especially since it’ll be heavy
**Edit: posted a picture in the comments

I recently got this book as a gift, but I hate the edges. I'm not sure if it was intentional or not, but I would like you to try to make it less jagged and smoother. Is that possible at all?
Image 2 is the top view, its straighter, but uneven, while inage three is uneven but in a curved shape following the curve of the spine area.

If I have a bunch of comic books, maybe 30 leaves each, each binding stiffer than the page text but still very definitely soft cover, is there a recommended way to make a, I guess a folder, that will hold them together so they can be read in the manner of a book?

• without damaging them (so, not removing the covers, not gluing them) .
• fine if they're laced in and the laces need destroying in order to remove them
• archival grade preservation as if they're fragile antiques not needed, but they should be able to turn into a stack of books no worse than if they'd been stored on a regular bookshelf and read from time to time.
• they start off used not brand new and crisp.
• obviously the result won't have pages that turn as smoothly as a normal book, that's fine so long as it doesn't damage the books more than reading them normally.

This is my first time binding a finished paperback so I'm terribly nervous. After researching all YTB tutorials I can find on making a paperback, I'm currently in my last stage: binding the pages to the cover. However, I have some questions that I'm burning to ask:

First, do I need to trim the excess cloth (i.e. the cloth protruding onto the front and back cover), leaving only the cloth stuck to the spine before applying glue?

Second, if the first is answered in the affirmative, do i apply glue to both the spine and the 7 mm of hinges on both sides (and by extension the cloth spanning that 7mm)?
If not, can I trim all the excess cloth and apply glue to the spine and 7mm of paper hinges on both sides?

Any assistance and pointing out of mistakes would be much appreciated!!!

So this is my first binding ever, its a photo album I m making for my friends wedding. I used 180g sketch paper and am planning on making a cased in rounded back. The rounding has been a bit tough with the tools I have at home 😅. Any advise would be great, feel free to judge.

I went to a local printing place to cut it to size when I was done sewing but the pages moved during the cut because of the swell and the looseness I suppose so ye I know the pages aren't straight. If it can be fixed I ld love to hear it 🙂

Any feed back is welcome, this is my first Coptic stitch binding.

I'm planning to DIY a book cloth for my journal cover. I was wondering if using a fusible material such as Pelon 1035F is viable? Only one side is fusible so I'm unsure if it will prevent glue from seeping to the fabric.

The heat and bond route is a no go for me, since either the product is too expensive or isn't available in my region.

I've also considered using hot melt adhesive film (used with t-shirt products), but I don't know if it will work, given that either the paper or the fabric will melt with the adhesive when fused. Am I wrong?

On another note, what are the other alternatives I can use for the paper backing besides Japanese paper. I have a ream of legal sized copy paper, 70 gsm. Will that work?

i'd like to try using cloth tape with an exposed spine but i'm not sure what's best to use, what might be too thick or what might be difficult to glue down? was just wondering if anyone would like to share their experiences or what they like to use.

Does it need to be diluted with water? When attaching the cover to the signatures (it's a softcover), should I dilute it? And when gluing the signatures together, should I dilute it?

Thanks!

I like this book so far but the binding makes it feel wobbly. And it also a wedge look to it that I'm also annoyed by but I don't know if the seller is too blame for that one.

I don't mind it being used. I knew this was to be the case when I bought it and have bought copies of books that are second hand.

But they've never looked like this so I'm just wondering if it's just cheaper to return it.

For reference I paid $23 dollars for it, and I got it off eBay

I've had this copy of Maus for many years, and now my son is reading it. But let's say there are 10 or 12 "sections" of pages that are now loose and falling out. Can these simply be glued back in etc., or do I need to just give up and replace this?