They found this on visual inspection should i take other opinion about oil filter housing and coolant pump i have not seen oil or coolant leak yet Price is in CAD i am in toronto

Apologies for the AI post, it was the easiest way to summarize.

The car: 2016 F30 328i xDrive, N20, 213,000 km. Was on BM3 Stage 1 for ~30k km, currently reverted to stock map.

What happened: Violent stutter under WOT → drivetrain malfunction → limp mode, cyl 2 shut down.

Codes:
• 140201 – Misfire cyl 2, injection cut off
• 152D08 – Super knock cyl 2, injection shutdown
• 102001 – Air mass too high (unmetered air / boost leak)

Datalog (captured on stock map, so not the tune) — full log here: https://bootmod3.net/log?id=6a60013e093467703bba1346

• Boost target ~13 psi, actual stalled at 8–9 psi
• Wastegate duty pinned 90–99% the whole pull
• Cyl 2 timing yanked to 0° then −4 to −6°, lambda pegged lean = injection cutoff
• HPFP tracked target fine (~2880 psi), so not fuel starvation

Already done:
• All 4 coils replaced (new OEM Bosch/Eldor) — no change
• New Bosch plugs installed 3-4 months prior to failure, gapped 0.030”

Current state: After clearing codes. Light sputter at idle, misfires under load. Wastegate rattle now noticeably worse than before. If I do a pull, it goes back into limp mode with cyl 2 shutdown.

Question: Anyone seen this combo? Is worsening wastegate rattle enough to explain the 4–5 psi shortfall, or am I chasing two separate problems?

Is it time to bury this N26?

I have no idea what to do anymore. We bought a rear window for this that said it fit but as you can see just does not fit. We think it could be the windows fault or the soft top. Either way one needs replacing. I would greatly appreciate help from someone who knows more about this type of stuff than I do. Please send links to anything I needa buy.

anyone can help with this? 90k miles didn't have it day before, no shavings in the filter or in the oil. new full oil

Have a 2022 230i with 37k miles

Went to a dealer for an inspection and their quoting me ~$1800 for a single brake pad, both rotors, a sensor, and labor.

It seems a bit expensive? I looked up the parts online and each of them is like 1/3 to 1/2 of what is quoted here.

They are also charging 340 for coolant replacement (~70 coolant + ~270 labor)

Does this look right?

EDIT: I put in a typo, I went to an independent 3rd party mechanic NOT A DEALER, my bad lol

I just opened the valve cover to replace the servemotor & saw the sludge as seen in the picture, any way I can fix this from happening again?

Hi guys

My car is having trouble starting up, and sometimes the display won't even power on. If the door is opened, it wont event start. So I'm in the process of getting a new battery installed, and when I scanned the car with bimmerlink its showng a state of charge of 81%

Could this issue be something other than the battery? (540i)

Thank you!

Hi I have a 2015 M135i. It had a charge pipe leak and was throwing drivetrain fault and code 120308. I've since replaced it with an aluminium pipe and the car now shows no faults or diagnostic codes (even after a week)

The problem is full power still hasn't returned, with the car still feeling noticeably slower and the power dials showing around 260hp/350nm torque rather than the normal 320hp/450nm. Apart from this the car drives absolutely fine even when fully pushing it, and it smoothly revs up to redline with no abnormal noises or vibration.

Does anyone know why power is still limited or the cause? Thanks.

All live data readings seem to be normal with boost pressure within standard stock limits at 9.2psi.

Am i right in thinking, this coolant pump is one of the three in the system?

Would this be linked to why the compressor won't start?

I can hear a pump running, and the smaller of the 2 expansion tanks has waterflow

I have a '16 330e

Front oil sensor housing broke off due to over tightening... Wish me luck. Gotta send both because, you know...

While doing a valve cover replacement, it seems like the threads were damaged on this part and the aluminum bolt is now hitting resistance when I try to screw it in and its going in crooked.

I believe this is a replaceable part because you can see the bolts where it bolts in.

All help is appreciated!!

Bought this running driving 2004 545i for 300 bucks it needs mechatronic seals (causing harsh shifting due to fluid loss) has major oil leaks and I believe the crossover pipe might be leaking aswell. Not even mentioning the electrical mayhem.

I was thinking of just fixing the mechatronic seals to fix the shifting issues (shifts smoothly 4-6 just harsh 1-3) and seeing what I can get from there but I don’t even know if that’s worth messing with.

My other thought was the interior is in pretty good shape just needs cleaned up and so are most of the panels. So parting it out might be worthwhile. Moreover I was looking for some advice/ opinions on what I should do with it.

Attached are pictures of the interior exterior under hood and underneath

Sometimes the noise appears when pulling away or while driving. It disappears as soon as I accelerate or change gears, as shown in the video. I have no idea what causes it or where it’s coming from.
This time it started at around 50 km/h in 3rd gear. The noise gradually became louder, and when I slowed down while staying in 3rd gear, it got even louder. Shifting down into 2nd gear didn’t change anything. The video was recorded at that moment.
Another thing I noticed is that the noise disappears immediately when I turn on the A/C.
Has anyone experienced something similar or have any idea what could be causing this?

Car:bmw e90 325i with n52b25, 2006

Hi,
We're working on a BMW 1 Series for our "Hundreds to Thousands" Series on our YT Channel. We're going to be doing more episodes on this car but thought this might be of interest. Thank you.

The Situation:
I have a 2017 BMW 540i with a malfunctioning left-side fuel level sensor. The sensor sends erratic, fluctuating resistance readings instead of accurately tracking the fuel. Because the car's computer averages the left and right sensor inputs—and the left side drains first—the dashboard gauge reads half-full when the right side is completely dry. I have to closely track my mileage to avoid running out of gas.
The Dealership Story:
I called multiple BMW dealerships, and they all stated that the left-side sensor is not individually replaceable because it is integrated into the tank structure. According to them, fixing it requires replacing the entire fuel tank assembly, which quotes out between $1,500 and $3,000 (just like the right-side fuel pump assembly I already replaced a few months ago).
The Plan / Question:
I found several good-condition used fuel tanks on eBay. Is it physically possible to drop my current tank, open it up, extract the left-side fuel level sensor from a used donor tank, and install it into my car? Has anyone actually done this, or are there hidden hurdles (like glued brackets, wiring routing, or calibration issues) that make swapping just the internal sensor impossible?

Literally has the timing chain, tensioners, guards and vanos actuators replaced one day ago by a BMW specialist due to it making this noise, and it hasn’t gone away! Anyone got any idea? Mostly can be heard on cold start but still present when driving time to time.

Sound coming from engine bay, have checked exhaust and heat shield etc

This is a 2022 G21 330E LCI, 40k miles on the clock and been serviced once every 7k miles

Thank you

Hi guys! My father was traveling this weekend and went to use his navigation in his 2015 BMW 428i and it was clear that it was severely outdated. I know you can get and update on a USB drive from a BMW dealer for some crazy amount of money but just wanted to search and see if there were any other cheaper avenues. I've posted on BimmerFest and haven't managed to have any luck yet. If anyone could give me a little guidance in the area that would be greatly appreciated. Hope you all have a wonderful day and thanks for taking the time to read my post! Cheers!

As shown above the ECUs arent all responding and the CAS seems defect, as well as some other codes. I had the red steering light flash up and the car wouldnt start anymore. I thought resetting the ELV fault counter would be enough but seems to me the CAS is defect. Already got the steering column replaced last year by a BMW dealership and a month later same thing popped up again, this time got a new battery and then it all ran well for 2-3 months. That time they just reset the CAS. Now a year later same thing again. BMW recommended replacing the steering column, CAS and Battery. I told them steering column was done last year. I was tired of the horse shit so I just got a new battery after which it ran for a week before showing the red steering lock again and not starting. Any help would be appreciated, I am at the end of my wits with this car.

when you’re braking lightly and coming to a stop, do you notice the 3rd → 2nd → neutral/downshift transition quite a bit? Like, do you feel a slight push right at the end instead of the car slowing down smoothly all the way to a stop? I’m just trying to figure out if this behavior is normal

It’s almost like when you’re coming to a stop, the transmission shifts into 2nd, but just as it’s finishing engaging, it immediately disengages again, so you feel a slight forward push

Hello everybody

In have purchased an f30 3 series 15 plate xdrive recently around one month ago . All fine at the beginning but it had a small hesitation on gear up from second to third gear but nothing else unusual. Driving after 3 weeks I had an oil leak replaced the rocket cover gasket but also during those 3 weeks my gear shifting gotten worse it’s really reaching almost 3k revs before shifting into third gear it’s super sluggish , the oil leak and all the labour already came to 300 quid but the oil patches still appearing . Oil level is always max not even once has been told that it’s low or it dropped I measure it daily

My question is anything possible could be link with the oil leak and the slow shifting gear sluggish ? Any correlation regarding those 2 issues or they totally different and treat them as separate ?

Not sure if tricker cover has been replaced properly and I haven’t been scammed that they done it but actually they haven’t . Where should I look For the shifting gear issue ? The transmission fluid was changed 6 months ago along with break fluid , pads changed 8 months ago . I don’t want to spend another 300++ again for the oil leak as I still have patches