They found this on visual inspection should i take other opinion about oil filter housing and coolant pump i have not seen oil or coolant leak yet Price is in CAD i am in toronto

any educated guesses , u think it’s the bolt on the expansion tank or the coolant line? thanks for yalls help

I just opened the valve cover to replace the servemotor & saw the sludge as seen in the picture, any way I can fix this from happening again?

Apologies for the AI post, it was the easiest way to summarize.

The car: 2016 F30 328i xDrive, N20, 213,000 km. Was on BM3 Stage 1 for ~30k km, currently reverted to stock map.

What happened: Violent stutter under WOT → drivetrain malfunction → limp mode, cyl 2 shut down.

Codes:
• 140201 – Misfire cyl 2, injection cut off
• 152D08 – Super knock cyl 2, injection shutdown
• 102001 – Air mass too high (unmetered air / boost leak)

Datalog (captured on stock map, so not the tune) — full log here: https://bootmod3.net/log?id=6a60013e093467703bba1346

• Boost target ~13 psi, actual stalled at 8–9 psi
• Wastegate duty pinned 90–99% the whole pull
• Cyl 2 timing yanked to 0° then −4 to −6°, lambda pegged lean = injection cutoff
• HPFP tracked target fine (~2880 psi), so not fuel starvation

Already done:
• All 4 coils replaced (new OEM Bosch/Eldor) — no change
• New Bosch plugs installed 3-4 months prior to failure, gapped 0.030”

Current state: After clearing codes. Light sputter at idle, misfires under load. Wastegate rattle now noticeably worse than before. If I do a pull, it goes back into limp mode with cyl 2 shutdown.

Question: Anyone seen this combo? Is worsening wastegate rattle enough to explain the 4–5 psi shortfall, or am I chasing two separate problems?

Is it time to bury this N26?

Hi everyone, seeking some kind advice if this is repairable?

Was inserting a mobile phone holder, when i heard a snap and realized that the AC vents no longer go up and down together, due to the dislocated linkage.

Thanks!

Hey guys, just curious if anyone has had this issue.
This happens intermittently to me where I could get in my car, the car won’t start due to a ‘restraint system, bonnet open’ regardless of if the bonnet is open or not.
The only fix I’ve noticed is to turn off the ignition lock the car, wait 2 minutes and come back and it’s usually back to normal.
Was just curious if anyone knows whether this is legitimately just a faulty bonnet sensor or an issue i could spend a lot of time looking for.

Thanks in advance guys.

I recently had the stock turbo rebuilt in my X3 m40i and after replacing I still have 118002 Mixture too rich. The previous turbo was causing a ton of oil burn that was fouling plugs within 100 miles. I don't see any white smoke anymore and the spark plugs have been replaced along with (an only slightly used with oil burn) upstream O2 sensor. The valve cover was also very recently replaced and crankcase pressures were verified to be in OEM range.

I am at a loss on what the issue could be and the engine codes aren't giving me much help. My fuel trims are super erratic and I see that the load actual/target is WAY off.

I'm stuck between these possible issues but am not really sure how to diagnose:

1. Residual oil is pooled in the intake manifold/intercooler and is slowly burning off. I have driven a few hundred miles though with no change.
2. Blown cat? I don't have any emissions codes but there was definitely oil going through this cat
3. Injectors are leaky or otherwise broken. I replaced my injectors already along with the valve cover when I originally thought the issue was PCV related. Its possible I put them in wrong although it didn't feel like a very tedious job. The plug to injector 6 is bit bashed up from the previous owner but I don't get any misfire code for any specific cyclinder which makes me think its a systemic issue.
4. Boost leak. My WGDC sits at 99% most of the time, this seems off. My boost target does seem to track though.
5. EVAP Valve. I don't have the rapid clicking or any of the accompanying codes but its a common enough issue to consider.

https://bootmod3.net/log?id=6a629d45b925d307af0cf268

I have no idea what to do anymore. We bought a rear window for this that said it fit but as you can see just does not fit. We think it could be the windows fault or the soft top. Either way one needs replacing. I would greatly appreciate help from someone who knows more about this type of stuff than I do. Please send links to anything I needa buy.

anyone can help with this? 90k miles didn't have it day before, no shavings in the filter or in the oil. new full oil

Have a 2022 230i with 37k miles

Went to a dealer for an inspection and their quoting me ~$1800 for a single brake pad, both rotors, a sensor, and labor.

It seems a bit expensive? I looked up the parts online and each of them is like 1/3 to 1/2 of what is quoted here.

They are also charging 340 for coolant replacement (~70 coolant + ~270 labor)

Does this look right?

EDIT: I put in a typo, I went to an independent 3rd party mechanic NOT A DEALER, my bad lol

Hi guys

My car is having trouble starting up, and sometimes the display won't even power on. If the door is opened, it wont event start. So I'm in the process of getting a new battery installed, and when I scanned the car with bimmerlink its showng a state of charge of 81%

Could this issue be something other than the battery? (540i)

Thank you!

Hi I have a 2015 M135i. It had a charge pipe leak and was throwing drivetrain fault and code 120308. I've since replaced it with an aluminium pipe and the car now shows no faults or diagnostic codes (even after a week)

The problem is full power still hasn't returned, with the car still feeling noticeably slower and the power dials showing around 260hp/350nm torque rather than the normal 320hp/450nm. Apart from this the car drives absolutely fine even when fully pushing it, and it smoothly revs up to redline with no abnormal noises or vibration.

Does anyone know why power is still limited or the cause? Thanks.

All live data readings seem to be normal with boost pressure within standard stock limits at 9.2psi.

Am i right in thinking, this coolant pump is one of the three in the system?

Would this be linked to why the compressor won't start?

I can hear a pump running, and the smaller of the 2 expansion tanks has waterflow

I have a '16 330e

Front oil sensor housing broke off due to over tightening... Wish me luck. Gotta send both because, you know...

While doing a valve cover replacement, it seems like the threads were damaged on this part and the aluminum bolt is now hitting resistance when I try to screw it in and its going in crooked.

I believe this is a replaceable part because you can see the bolts where it bolts in.

All help is appreciated!!

Bought this running driving 2004 545i for 300 bucks it needs mechatronic seals (causing harsh shifting due to fluid loss) has major oil leaks and I believe the crossover pipe might be leaking aswell. Not even mentioning the electrical mayhem.

I was thinking of just fixing the mechatronic seals to fix the shifting issues (shifts smoothly 4-6 just harsh 1-3) and seeing what I can get from there but I don’t even know if that’s worth messing with.

My other thought was the interior is in pretty good shape just needs cleaned up and so are most of the panels. So parting it out might be worthwhile. Moreover I was looking for some advice/ opinions on what I should do with it.

Attached are pictures of the interior exterior under hood and underneath

Sometimes the noise appears when pulling away or while driving. It disappears as soon as I accelerate or change gears, as shown in the video. I have no idea what causes it or where it’s coming from.
This time it started at around 50 km/h in 3rd gear. The noise gradually became louder, and when I slowed down while staying in 3rd gear, it got even louder. Shifting down into 2nd gear didn’t change anything. The video was recorded at that moment.
Another thing I noticed is that the noise disappears immediately when I turn on the A/C.
Has anyone experienced something similar or have any idea what could be causing this?

Car:bmw e90 325i with n52b25, 2006

Hi,
We're working on a BMW 1 Series for our "Hundreds to Thousands" Series on our YT Channel. We're going to be doing more episodes on this car but thought this might be of interest. Thank you.

The Situation:
I have a 2017 BMW 540i with a malfunctioning left-side fuel level sensor. The sensor sends erratic, fluctuating resistance readings instead of accurately tracking the fuel. Because the car's computer averages the left and right sensor inputs—and the left side drains first—the dashboard gauge reads half-full when the right side is completely dry. I have to closely track my mileage to avoid running out of gas.
The Dealership Story:
I called multiple BMW dealerships, and they all stated that the left-side sensor is not individually replaceable because it is integrated into the tank structure. According to them, fixing it requires replacing the entire fuel tank assembly, which quotes out between $1,500 and $3,000 (just like the right-side fuel pump assembly I already replaced a few months ago).
The Plan / Question:
I found several good-condition used fuel tanks on eBay. Is it physically possible to drop my current tank, open it up, extract the left-side fuel level sensor from a used donor tank, and install it into my car? Has anyone actually done this, or are there hidden hurdles (like glued brackets, wiring routing, or calibration issues) that make swapping just the internal sensor impossible?

Literally has the timing chain, tensioners, guards and vanos actuators replaced one day ago by a BMW specialist due to it making this noise, and it hasn’t gone away! Anyone got any idea? Mostly can be heard on cold start but still present when driving time to time.

Sound coming from engine bay, have checked exhaust and heat shield etc

This is a 2022 G21 330E LCI, 40k miles on the clock and been serviced once every 7k miles

Thank you

Hi guys! My father was traveling this weekend and went to use his navigation in his 2015 BMW 428i and it was clear that it was severely outdated. I know you can get and update on a USB drive from a BMW dealer for some crazy amount of money but just wanted to search and see if there were any other cheaper avenues. I've posted on BimmerFest and haven't managed to have any luck yet. If anyone could give me a little guidance in the area that would be greatly appreciated. Hope you all have a wonderful day and thanks for taking the time to read my post! Cheers!