Hello! My dad and I got a new TV for my mom, and I have been reading up on many of the 2+ year old posts with similar titles and questions, and unfortunately the older things that worked no longer work for this purpose.

My mom is hard of hearing and my dad and I bought her a pair of headphones (Avantree) which work, but my dad wants to be able to watch the same thing with her with the TV speakers (or any speakers that would work at the same time) and control the volume separately as what works for her is very loud, but for him it's blasting his ears out lol

The smartphone / app option does not really work as they're not very tech savvy. I'm trying to figure out how I can split the audio with separate volume controls. I've tried many things and nothing worked thus far, so please explain to me like I'm 5 if you have a solution please!

I will say, cords/cables are not an issue if they're needed, if there's a solution for TV speakers and the headset to both work and a long cable will be a solution, I can do that!

For reference, the TV is the "Roku 55" Class Select Series 4K QLED Smart RokuTV (2026) and the Avantree headphones are the "Avantree Opera Plus - Wireless TV Headphones with HDMI ARC Input"

Thank you!!

Hello, I’m new here so sorry if this is the wrong sub to ask about this, but I’ve been having a problem with my Bluetooth glitching for a while now and I’m getting tired of it.

For reference, I have an iPhone 15 and this problem has been occurring since I first got the phone.

I used to have a 2016 GMC Acadia and whenever I connected to the Bluetooth to listen to music, there would be glitches in the music where it would lag and speed up. I thought it was a problem with the car but last year I ended up having to get a new car for unrelated reasons. Now I have a 2018 Mazda CX-5 and the same problem is occurring. I was okay with it for a while but now I’m noticing that the glitches and lags are occurring when I use my AirPods. So I know it must be a problem with my phone’s Bluetooth rather than the cars.

Also for reference, the glitching and lagging does seem to get worse when I’m in neighborhoods or near buildings, but it will happen occasionally anywhere.

I’ve tried turning off my WiFi to see if maybe my phone was trying to connect to nearby buildings, but that didn’t help. I’ve also tried not wearing my Apple Watch since it also has a Bluetooth connection but that didn’t change anything either.

Does anyone know what I can do to solve this problem without having to get a new phone?

Thanks in advance :)

I'm looking to buy a USB Bluetooth adapter for my Windows PC/laptop. My budget is limited, so I want something that's affordable but also durable and reliable for long-term use.

I'm lying here on my couch, and there is a FAN at the other end of the couch. About a foot farther than my foot. The distance is moot, because to turn on the fan I need to activate my huge fat-ass body all the way to the other side of the couch. So herein lies the question: Sould all appliances have bluetooth built in?

Apparently, LE audio gen 2 has a Gaming Audio Profile (GMAP) that drastically reduces audio latency. All I have been able to find that supports this are as follows:

* Sony WH1000-XM6

* FlooGoo FMA121 LE Audio / Auracast™ Transmitter/Receiver

* Devices with the Qualcom QCC5181 chipset

I'm not sure, but I believe that the Sennheiser BTD700 adapter might also work? Please let me know if that works or if any additional products are out there. I'm ultimately trying to get myself lower latency for wireless gaming, like found in this video https://youtu.be/QK9bEhsVgxg?si=4ojICJ5PemcU9PhP

I am using a JBL Charge 6, however, I believe this will apply to multiple models.

I've seen a few (older) posts discussing a common issue when multiple devices are connected, particularly for Android.

Essentially, when two people are connected, doing literally anything on the second device (the one not hosting music) will stop the music playing.

This is due to notification sounds interrupting the music.

The solution here, at least for Samsung users, is to download Good Luck, then Sound Assistant from in that. In Sound Assistant, click on Advanced Settings > Alerts Through Headphones > Notifications OFF.

Other devices might have other solutions, but the key is to stop notifications getting routed to the Bluetooth.

I hope this helps anyone looking in the future.

I have a 2011 VW Golf - before I had an iPhone 12 that connected to the Bluetooth and everything was fine. Recently I upgraded to a 17 and the Bluetooth keeps on cutting out. Sometimes I can just reconnect it and other times that doesn’t work.

I have no idea why getting a newer phone would do this and what my options are to fix this?

Hi everyone,

I have a practical problem that led me to an idea. Maybe you can tell me if it's realistic.

The situation:

I live in a house with a yard. When I'm mowing the lawn, I leave my phone on the porch (I don't want it in my pocket – dust, sweat, risk of falling out). I wear my Honor Earbuds Choice X5 Pro. But when I walk about 20 meters (65 ft) to dump the grass, the Bluetooth connection starts stuttering and cuts out. I walk back – it works again. Annoying.

My idea:

What if the charging case acted as a Bluetooth repeater/relay? Here's how I imagine it:

1. The phone constantly measures signal strength (RSSI) to both the earbuds and the case.

2. If the signal to the earbuds drops below a threshold, but the case still has a strong signal (say it's in my pocket or placed on a window), the phone starts sending the audio stream to the case.

3. The case then forwards it to the earbuds.

Think of it like a Wi-Fi mesh/repeater, but for Bluetooth audio.

I know the downsides:

· The case would drain faster (needs an extra Bluetooth TRX chip and a bigger battery).

· There would be a slight latency increase (maybe 20-30ms).

· Cost would go up by ~$15-20.

But my thought is: Flagship phones already have huge batteries, and cases have 500-600 mAh – I'd happily sacrifice one full charging cycle if it means I can walk 40 meters away without losing connection.

My questions:

1. Is this technically feasible with current chips (like Qualcomm S7 or MediaTek)?

2. Would YOU pay extra for this feature?

3. If you're an engineer – what's the biggest showstopper here? Latency? Power? Patent issues?

I'm not asking for money or a job – I just want to know if this is a dumb idea or if someone should actually build it. Maybe a Kickstarter?

Hello,

I am facing issue related to bluetooth that it is getting turn on and turn off automatically in iphone17

I recently got a new Samsung A57 and I want to use my earhuds with it but now, every time I try to pair with them it just lazily tells me "Whoops, can't connect, check the device settings", tf you mean??, It is literally saying _Pairing_ when I turn them on!

I used them on my PC as a substitute for my headphones that broke, and when I didn't get them to connect to my phone I forgot them on both devices, so maybe that could be to blame but Im out of ideas.

Electro Audio World's Take :

I've reviewed products like the FiiO LINK TWS before, but their performance didn't satisfy me enough to publish a review. With the Link TWS, FiiO aims to transform our favorite IEMs into premium true wireless earbuds without compromising sound quality.

Powered by Qualcomm's flagship QCC5181 Bluetooth platform and the Japanese AKM AK4333 DAC with integrated headphone amplifier, this product promises better wireless stability, higher sound quality, lower latency, and greater compatibility compared to previous generations.

With the Link TWS, I tested IEMs from my collection with diverse characteristics, such as the Moritz Audio Enzo, FiiO Snowsky OAK Nano, and Ziigaat Arcanis. I used them daily for several weeks with an iPhone 14 Pro Max and FiiO M33 R2R as Bluetooth audio sources, and now my opinion on this has changed.

I realized that an audiophile might never want to go back to ordinary standalone wireless earbuds. Now I definitely think that a quality product like the Link TWS should be in every audiophile's bag. I think this is the next level..

* Click here to read the full review, including audio source matching and comparisons with other IEMs.

First Impressions

After connecting the LINK TWS to IEMs, it felt more like a natural extension of the IEM than an aftermarket accessory, and it felt quite stylish.

The modular connection system is one of the smartest improvements FiiO has introduced. Having both MMCX and 2 pin connectors in the same package eliminates one of the biggest frustrations experienced by previous UTWS users. I have IEMs that use both connector types, and being able to switch between them without buying separate adapters makes the LINK TWS much more practical.

The charging case is equally impressive. Its overall dimensions are compact enough for everyday pocket use, and the addition of an OLED charging information display to the case simplifies the user experience. Battery status, pairing information, and charging progress are now instantly visible instead of relying on small indicator LEDs, which I think is quite technological.

These may be small details. However, they make the LINK TWS feel much more refined than previous generations.

Sound Signature :

One of the biggest reasons why the LINK TWS delivers noticeably better sound than most wireless adapters is, in my opinion, its high quality hardware architecture.

Instead of relying solely on the Bluetooth chipset for digital conversion, FiiO has equipped the LINK TWS with the AKM AK4333 DAC and headphone amplifier, which works in conjunction with Qualcomm's flagship QCC5181 Bluetooth platform. This is quite impressive. I think it owes its overall quality to this.

This combination has managed to give the LINK TWS a sound character that is surprisingly close to that of a compact wired DAC.

The AK4333 has always been one of my favorite portable DAC implementations because it avoids the sterile presentation that some mobile ESS based designs sometimes exhibit. It's a rather technical presentation.

Here, it exhibits a smooth, dynamic, and remarkably natural character.

The bass carries a satisfying weight without becoming dominant. Acoustic recordings retain excellent texture and realism, while electronic music has enough authority to give it a convincing impact.

The sub bass extends deeper than I expected from a wireless adapter, but remains controlled and disciplined.

Where the LINK TWS interestingly shines is in the mid frequencies. You know, generally, wireless systems have lower transmission quality than wired ones, and this negatively impacts vocal performance in particular.

Voices sound more open, clean, and emotionally impactful to my ears. Male voices have a convincing fullness, while female vocals remain beautifully transparent without being overly prominent. Instruments naturally occupy their own space, allowing complex arrangements to breathe without being choked.

The treble is also quite good, in my opinion. The LINK TWS offers excellent extension with a refined sense of air. Cymbals naturally fade out, string harmonics remain delicate, and long listening sessions never become tiring. In my opinion, this is exactly the sound transmission quality that an "audiophile Bluetooth adapter" should produce.

* Click here to read the full review, including audio source matching and comparisons with other IEMs.

Pros: 

Excellent sound quality for a wireless adapter
Natural and musical AK4333 DAC application
Superior Bluetooth stability (no connection ever dropped)
Excellent aptX and AAC performance
Both MMCX and Two Pin connectors included in the box
Comfortable and secure fit
These physical buttons definitely work better than other touch controls
Useful display on the charging case
Powerful FiiO Control application with parametric EQ
Excellent call quality
Wireless charging support

Cons: 

Transparency mode still lags behind high end mainstream TWS models
Soundstage is slightly smaller than a good wired DAC
Takes some time to learn all the button shortcuts
High price compared to ordinary wireless adapters, but high quality

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My Instagram Account >> https://www.instagram.com/electroaudioworld/

All photos were taken by ADR >> Instagram: u/electroaudioworld

Used photo Gear : Sony A7 III + Sigma 24–70mm F/2.8 DG DN II Art Lens
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Last edited: Yesterday at 2:27 AM

For the last 2 or so years I have had a problem with my phones connection to our family car. I’ve tried many solutions that I saw online, but they were all for something similar but not the exact problem that I have since no one seems to be having the same issue. Anyway for the last 2 years my phone has been the only one in my family that when I connect it to the car, I get a solid minute and forty five seconds of music before the music cuts and my phone “disconnects.” Except it only sort of disconnects. My phone calls will still go through the car, but my audio moves back to my phone speaker. I recently got a new phone and hoped that would solve the issue, but somehow the bug moved over. I’ve done everything I can think of including resetting my whole phone without using my backup, which leaves me to believe that it could somehow be connected to my Apple ID. Does anybody know what this is or have a solution?

My bluetooth is really just not working right now. I have a bluetooth dongle and i dont know why i can't remove devices and everytime i try to connect something it just says couldnt connect. anybody got a fix?

I have a Victus HP Gaming Laptop 15 that has had Bluetooth for over two years and suddenly the option to turn on or connect to Bluetooth on this laptop is gone.

I am looking for something to transmit audio to my 3 kids headsets from my old af laptop that we take on 4+ hour trips with us so the kids can watch movies. I did try to google (only found ones that do 2 headsets - I have 3 kids) and tried to search this thread, but everyones situations are different.

In the past I have just put it on the car radio bluetooth, and used my own headset to not have to listen to or be distracted by the audio of my kids movies but this time I am going to have my dad in the car and I would rather them just have the movie audio on their own headsets. Is this possible?

Thanks!

For some time now, I've been having trouble adjusting the volume on my Bluetooth speakers. The volume wheel on my keyboard (as well as the F2/F3 keys on my laptop) only changes the system sounds volume, but has no effect on the YouTube video currently playing. Both my OS and browser are fully up to date.

Has anyone run into a similar issue? This problem also occurs on Fedora 44.

I am losing hair trying to get an answer for this. I would appreciate any insight into what is causing this discrepancy.

I use Bluetooth headphones, specifically the Bose QC headphones, I use when sitting at my PC. But I also listen to stuff and walk with them around my apartment and have connection issues whenever I'm in the kitchen which is very close to my office where my PC is, no more than 25-30 feet. However, I never have connection issues when they are connected to my iphone 17 even when they are placed just as far away as my PC is with obstructions. When my headphones are connected to my phone, they can reach on the complete opposite side of the apartment!

I just want to know, what is the weak point in the connection range and how can I extend it?

I have a X670 AORUS ELITE AX (Rev 1.3) for my motherboard (yes the antenna is screwed in and sits right on top of my pc which is level with my head when sitting down and perpendicular with floor). I've tried updating the driver for the "Realtek Bluetooth Adapter" but the device manager says the best driver is already installed when searching for a driver (version 18.4032.2510.900). The gigabyte website is also not helpful because it provides the "latest driver version" which it says is version 11.29.50.0202, released June 23, 2026 (which I would think is an older driver since it begins with 11 rather than the 18 that I already installed). But when I download and try to install, nothing changes in the device manager properties.

Is this a driver issue, a motherboard issue, a headphone issue, or is the iphone bluetooth antenna just so much better than what gigabyte provides and should I get a better bluetooth adapter? I just want to be able to wear my headphones without connection issues while I'm in my kitchen.

I have an Acer Aspire 14 AI (A14-52M-59ET) equipped with an Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211 160 MHz wireless card. For several days, I have been experiencing a recurring Bluetooth issue: my Sennheiser HD450BT headphones and JBL Tune Flex 2 earbuds suddenly disconnect and then reconnect automatically a few seconds or minutes later.

The issue is most likely not caused by the Bluetooth devices themselves, because both devices work perfectly with my phone, and the problem occurs with multiple Bluetooth peripherals.

At first, I thought only Bluetooth was affected. I therefore checked several things:

\\- In Device Manager, Windows reports that the device is working correctly and that the best drivers are already installed.

\\- I checked the power management settings: the option allowing Windows to turn off the device to save power was disabled.

\\- I changed the Bluetooth Support Service startup type to automatic. This seemed to fix the problem temporarily for about 1.5 days, but the disconnects eventually came back.

While investigating further, I noticed something important: at the exact moment when Bluetooth disconnects, the Wi-Fi connection also becomes unstable. Both connections usually recover at the same time. In Task Manager, the Wi-Fi activity can fluctuate heavily during these periods.

I also noticed that a small blue icon related to Windows Location services appears in the notification area during the disconnects. Clicking it opens Settings > Privacy & security > Location. This seems more like a consequence of network services restarting rather than the actual cause of the problem.

I then checked the Windows Event Viewer ("eventvwr.msc"). At the time of the disconnects, I found mainly:

\\- BTHUSB errors related to Bluetooth.

\\- Netwtw16 errors, which are related to the Intel Wi-Fi driver.

Since Bluetooth and Wi-Fi share the same Intel AX211 chip, these signs suggest that the whole wireless card (or its firmware/driver) is being reset, rather than this being a simple Bluetooth-only issue.

The current diagnosis points more toward a software/driver/firmware issue rather than a hardware failure, because:

\\- Both Bluetooth and Wi-Fi functions from the same chip are affected at the same time.

\\- Multiple Bluetooth devices show the same behavior.

\\- The devices work correctly on other devices.

\\- The errors appear at the driver level (Netwtw16 and BTHUSB).

The steps already completed are:

1. I identified the exact laptop model.

2. I checked the Acer BIOS version: I am already running BIOS version 1.32, which is the latest available version.

3. I completely uninstalled the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth drivers from Device Manager, including removing the driver software.

4. I installed Intel Driver & Support Assistant (DSA).

5. I downloaded and installed the latest official Intel drivers for both Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

The installation completed normally. The temporary network interruptions during the driver installation were expected.

The next step is to use the laptop normally for a few days and check whether the issue comes back. I will also monitor Event Viewer to see if Netwtw16 and BTHUSB errors appear again.

If the problem continues despite the new drivers, I would like to determine whether it is caused by:

\\- A deeper firmware/BIOS/Windows issue,

\\- A software conflict,

\\- Or potentially a hardware defect with the Intel AX211 card requiring warranty service.

The main questions I would like to investigate are:

\\- Do the combination of Netwtw16 + BTHUSB errors, simultaneous Wi-Fi/Bluetooth disconnects, and the fact that all Bluetooth devices work correctly elsewhere point more toward a software issue or a hardware failure?

\\- What additional checks would you perform before considering replacing the wireless card or contacting Acer for a warranty repair?

2013 Honda civic Si… Bluetooth just randomly stopped working the other day. I have this screen .. “Now loading… please wait”. Yes I’ve googled it and disconnected my battery. I disconnected it today for a good 5+ hours.. just re-connected it & it is still stuck here… please someone help me fix this ASAP. It’s making me not want to drive my car lol. Thank you in advance for any help!!